Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2008 GLS 2.4 Liter Won't Start - Throwing Codes P2110 / P2118 And P2119
Mar 6, 2013
My 08 2.4l sonata gls won't start. I started it this morning to warm it up while I cleared off all the snow, it was running for about ten minutes. I turned it off and about twenty minute later went to start it and it will not catch. All the electronics are running and the engine turns over but it won't start. I replaced the battery in December, the oil was changed last week as well as the air filter. It has 93k miles on it. What could be the problem? I did go borrow a diagnostic scanner and it is throwing a P2110 P2118 and P2119 code.
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It was the throttle body thing, cleaned that completely. Replaced the pedal with one from the bone yard. No change after clearing codes, the check engine light comes back the second you touch the pedal. Have a new (reman) throttle body coming tomorrow as I may have dinged it up after cleaning it again, I took it apart to see if I could see anything obvious.
Cleaned the carbon tracks inside and bent the brushes up more to contact the tracks better. I doubt it liked that. It was throwing a code for high current, but now that has disappeared. However, I used to be able to rev it up to 2500 rpm, now nada.... So I am left wondering if this is a bad ground or something? Bad wiring to the ECM:?
I would love a schematic showing where any relevant grounds are, pin out voltages etc. It is -15 here. The closest I've come so far: [URL] ....
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I have a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT that seems to have an intermittent misfire. The truck is not throwing any codes either.
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I have an '05 5.4L 3V and I was way to trusting in how it was running. BTW, I change the oil every 3 to 5 and have only driven highway miles, albeit a lot of them...155k! I bought it with 40k on it but was not aware of the plug change issue until I heard about it off-hand. I let the plug change go cuz it was running so well. Bad move.
Anyways, a few weeks ago it began to lose power and I suspected that the PCM was retarding the timing for some reason. Before I could get to the shop, the thing went nuts on me at 75mph. Started shaking and sputtering and throwing cel codes. I shut it down and after 5 minutes re-started. It seemed fine and actually was running a bit better. Took it in and the code was the 0302. #2 cyl misfire.
They also said the compression was very low on that cylinder and slightly low on 1,3 and 7 as well. I had them change the plugs and the #2 COP even though they said I needed a new engine and then I picked it up. Now the engine barely runs at all. It shakes violently, where to go from here. What should I do now? New engine?
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I mentioned earlier that a rat got at some wires in my truck. I took few things apart and the only visible issue with wires I could find , besides my hid set up, was an engine coolant temperature sensor which threw P0118 code. Can this or those other codes p2111, 2119 will prevent the car from running? It starts? And then after a second or two dies. I'm wondering if prolonged short of the buttery could have caused a burn to some fuses associated with the throttle body control system? I looked at fuse box and can't figure out what solunoid/fuses are associated with the throttle system.
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Throwing 2 codes -
P0172: too rich
P1176: post cat 02 reached limit
Last time it turned on it had horrible air flow, it felt as though it was choking. definitely not a misfire. occasionally after spirited driving the engine would die after I came to a complete stop then worsened to cutting off when I put the clutch in at high rpms. also have a slight loss of power. I also recently added a 3" tbe and changed coil packs.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L and it started throwing codes p0012 p0022 p0345 and would knock and make popping sounds after it warmed up but I could rev it up and it would go away for the most part but would come right back when I started driving it. I have since pulled down the front cover and made sure it was in time, replaced both cam phasers, replaced both vct solenoids, and replaced both cam sensors. Same issue after doing all of that. I have searched the internet and have come up with nothing.
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2008, 5.4 liter, F250, with 6-speed manual transmission
My truck was running fine until I decided to clean my engine. I just wanted to remove the extra dust covering it, so I used a low pressure garden hose to wash away the dirt that had accumulated last winter and spring.
It started throwing codes like Fuel Rail pressure sensors, P0191, P0192. I had no power, and I could hardly drive the truck.
I figured I had some water in some connectors, so I checked around, but could not detect any moisture.
I kept driving it, and the problem got less severe. One warm summer day, I drove my truck for about an hour trip, and everything looked fine after this. Problem never came back.
I was even noticing that it was better on gas that ever before, I was doing 11liters/100km, in city driving.
Until one day (2 months later), I had to disconnect the battery to do some servicing on my truck (more that 30 minutes), and it started to run crappy again, having some piston misfire, throwing codes P2198 and P2196, (O2 sensors). No power, if I am very gentle on the gas pedal, I can manage it, but as soon as i try to accelerate, runs like crap, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The problem comes and goes, sometimes, the problem stops, and I can get going, no issues. Air filter is clean, even tried with no air filter, no differences., but it really sounds like bad air/fuel mixture.
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My sister has a 2006 sonata V6 3.3, she got in 2007 with I think 20,000 miles on it, it has 180k. now. For the first few years she took it to the dealer for all the maintenance and oil changes. She has kept up with the oil changes and I think all the recalls were done.
There has been so slight noise at start up, but nothing I thought was too unusual for these kind of motors.
Yesterday she had an emergency with one of the kids, her faithful sonata fires up with an incredible amount of upper end noise, and it looked like it was burning oil. The engine was turned off immediately.
Her husband tried to start the car about a half hour later, he said it was hard to start, ran rough for moment, he revved it for a bit and it smoothed out running normally. No codes and no CEL. Oil level was good. Oil filter is a fram I think.
I started it a few hours later there was some lifter noise that quickly went away after a rev. Other than that it sounded normal and drove normally, normal exhaust from what we can tell.
There were no codes. and so far it has not done it again. But she is worried the engine is about to fail and she can't trust it with transporting her kids.
Was a timing issue? stuck valves? oil pressure? Oil Pressure to the cvvt (OCT?) maybe? They can't afford a new car right now, is this something easy to fix or is it a warning the motor is about done?
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I recently got a great deal on a 2009 Sonata 3.3l v6 with just a few quirks i'm in the process of repairing.
First on my list is the CEL throwing codes p2271 & p0140 which indicates a faulty downstream o2 sensor. I've searched the forums and have not been able to come up with the exact location of the sensor and the tools i might need for the job. I realize this might only be like a 10 minute job but I want to be prepared .
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2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
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Where is the Throttle Actuator Control Module Processor on a 2008 5.4L? Is it built into the throttle body, or integrated into the PCM?
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Bought a truck from a guy the other day. Long story, but he was a con artist. Told me the battery was dead from cranking it, he couldn't hear the fuel pump so he thinks it needs a new one. Got it home, checked fpdm, it was unplugged. Plugged it in fp running now. Charged battery. Cranks slowly won't start. Appears the engine has been changed. Have codes P0201-208, all injector codes. Cranking it over reminds me of an older distributor type engine that if off its timing. But also of cranking with a low battery. There's a new starter on it already. I'm going to pull the converter bolts on the weekend to see if they may have bound the torque when they installed the engine. Injector codes?
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I have an 08 2.4L Sonata with 95000mi. When turning the ignition it will crank and sound like its about to start but won't. I was able to get it to start by pushing the gas pedal a bit when it sounds like it wanted to start. Once started, it ran rough and would stall unless I revved it above 1500 RPM. Still sounded like it occasionally miss fired.
I kept it revved until it reached normal operating temp. When I took my foot slowly off the gas, rpm dropped to about 500-600 and it seemed to pulse . I think engine was raising throttle to keep from stalling. It stalls if I try to put in gear without pressing on gas to raise throttle.
The spark plugs were changed at about 70K mikes. I have not read any codes as the car is stuck in the driveway. Could it be a vacuum leak? I know the Entourages have air intake hose leaks that cause rough idle but with a 6 cyl it still runs. Fuel pump problem?
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My 2008 Hyundai Sonata wouldn't start on two separate occasions after I had refilled my tank. The first incident happened a little over a month ago (early August 2011), the starter would crank, and crank, but no signs of life in the engine. Tested the spark plugs, I was getting spark, but the sucker wouldn't start. The car was only at about 55k miles when this problem began.
I had the car towed to the dealership, and they said after 4 long attempts, they got it to start. I took it home, and the next morning I couldn't start it again. Towed it back a second time, and it started right up for them. Drove it back home again, and for a little more than a month, the car ran fine, but things started acting up again.
A few days ago the wife pulled the car out of the garage (fyi: my garage is level) stopped the car on our slanted driveway and when she came back to start it just minutes later, it hesitated, but did turn over. I filled up the tank, parked it in my garage and the very next morning, I could not start my car again.
Called for a tow from AAA, and the driver said "let me try something". Pulled out a hammer, and wacked the bottom of my gas tank 4 or 5 times. The tow guy gets in, tuns the ignition to engage the fuel pump (didn't turn the key all the way), he does this about 4 times, then the very next turn of the key it starts right up. The driver said it sounded like a bad fuel pump.
I drive the car back to the dealership (this is the third time) and talk to the same guy I had dealt with all along. He calls me later in the day to tell me they finally got it to not start and were able to isolate the problem to the fuel pump sensor. They replaced the fuel pump assembly and I was off and running.
To summarize:
*Refilling the tank on two separate occasions seemed to be related to the car not starting the following day.
*Towing the car allowed the car to jostle back & forth, which for some reason would allow the dealer to start it when it arrived.
*Was able to start the car by hitting the fuel tank (just underneath it) with a hammer, turning the key 3/4 of the way on a few times, then turning the key all the way.
*Dealer diagnosed bad fuel pump sensor, and replaced fuel pump assembly.
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I have a 2008 2.4L Sonata GLS with 96K mi. It is hard to start and idles rough. I cleaned some components and changed spark plugs. I disconnected the negative battery cable to see if it would reset and relearn settings. Took a 15 mi drive and read codes and P0016 was pending, it was still idling rough and acceleration was still under par. I then cleared the code. I purchased a new cam sensor and compared the Ohm readings between the old and new Cam position sensor. The Ohm readings were different by 50% so I assumed the old was indeed bad.
I installed the new sensor, repeated battery disconnect for 10 min, then restarted engine. It was still idling rough (maybe a little better) so I rechecked for codes. P0016 was still a pending code. I cleared the code and P0016 cam right back. The battery is good (no charging issues), timing chain is original (no noise). Is there a way to test the crank position sensor before buying a new one? I've also seen in posts the Oil Control Valve (OCV) affects timing and seems to be a problem for these vehicles, however I have not received that code (P0011). I can limp it to work but will have to take it in if I cannot solve this soon. If it ends up being a timing chain problem what ballpark price should I expect to pay to have it done.
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I have an 09 Limited with the dual automatic climate control. It finally got cool enough to start running the heater. The passenger side vents are throwing cold air instead of warm like the drivers side. This includes the windshield defroster. I'm thinking there is a diverter "somewhere" that is not working properly.
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I drove from office to home today. After 30 min, the remote unlock worked fine, got into the car, turned the ignition to "A" and "ON". All the dashboard lights, headlights and radio turned on. When I turned the key to "START" , car won't start and all the lights and radio turned off. There was no cranking and any other noise from engine. Removed the key and tried again. Now there is no power at all. Not sure what happened.
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I'm in a bit of a bind. I was very low on gas drove my car on fumes (mistake, yes) back to my place. Today, it will not start. I dumped 3/4 of a gallon into the tank, and still no start.
The ignition will try, fail to engage the engine, and then emit rapid clicks as the interior light flashes. The battery works, as all the cabin lights turn on.
I really don't want to the fuel pump to be broken, so I'm trying to eliminate possibilities before that. Is there something wrong with the ignition, perhaps? What is the clicking after the attempted "heaves" of the ignition switch?
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I just has a gen 2 haldex and wireless controller installed. 10 minutes of driving around getting on it in sport mode, I feel a thunk from the back and when slowing down a few odd shudders. Drove it cautiously a bit more and felt fine, then harder and harder. Felt better, no understeer, seemed ok.
Got home and scanned with Vagcom, got the errors below, cleared DTC and scanned again, same errors.
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: HW0 5Ha lde x
Component: Tuning
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 5AB1BED4953067CEBA7-800F
2 Faults Found:
16347 - Control Module - EEPROM Error
014 - Defective
02248 - Valve for Controlling Clutch Operating Angle (N373)
014 - Defective
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I recently had an issue with a coolant leak. the Y shaped coolant line connection went bad located under the power steering reservoir. The car got hot and the coolant light came on i immediately turned the car off and saw coolant leaking out from this.
Now today I start my car it has a rough idle and dies once it dies it doesn't start again and the epic light comes on throwing the codes
17579 P1171 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Range/Performance
17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low
16497 P0113 Intake Air Temp.Circ High Input
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started
17953 P1545 Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction
17976 P1568 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. mechanical Malfunction
18012 P1604 Internal Control Module Driver Error
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