Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 V6 Won't Start
Nov 29, 2011
Started right off in the morning, then parked it at the grocery store. Returned with groceries and car wouldn't start. Ran down battery trying. Called Tow Truck. Jumped, but no start still. Finally towed it home, recharged battery. Still no start. Gas tank 3/4 full. Then bought NAPA starting fluid, undid air cleaner intake area, sprayed 3 seconds (as directed), cranked, and car started. But died after spray no longer around. So, it seems to be a fuel problem. Fuel pump fuse OK. Is it the fuel pump, filter, so on...
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I Have a sonata 2007 2.4L automatic and I just had a start problem today. I turned the start key and nothing no crank, all the light in the dashboard are ok, i can hear the fuel pump and my batery is fine. I tried 5 time to start it and nothing I wait 10 minutes and the car started ..
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Relative owns a 2007 Sonata 3.3L V6 (58k or so), purchased from in-laws so no warranty, unfortunately. Recently, in cold weather the car has developed hesitation issues upon start up, ESC-Off light illuminates and CEL. Has to restart for somewhat normal operation.
Had a chance to look at it today and CEL had already turned off and only code stored is P2135.
Researching issue (mostly here, so thx!), looks like TPS is faulty and can be replaced separate from throttle body to save $.
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It seems that I'm having issues with playing my IPod through my stereo on my '09 Sonata. I'm using the factory radio with the IPod connection in the console. I bought the cable from EBay. Sometimes the IPod will just pause and stop playing. Sometimes I have to unplug it and plug it back in to get it to work, other times I can just switch sources and switch back and it will work again. Also, isn't it supposed to charge the IPod also? I have left it for overnight a few times without unplugging it and when I came back in the morning, it would not play because it was dead. It did not even start to charge once I started the car up.
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I got a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 6 cylinder, 3.3L, at 110,000 miles and since I bought the car, I always had a vibration when the A/C is on. I can feel it in the front of the car somewhere where the pedals are. Ones I turn off the A/C I can feel how the vibration causing thing stops. Is it normal? Can it be one of the A/C motors?
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I have an 07 Sonata with the 4 cyl engine. Problem is the A/c only cools when car is moving. Took car to mechanic and was told Radiator fan bad, so I replaced and still have same problem. Fan still will not operate. Fuses checked and everything ok there. Found the Fan control module under left front headlight to be cracked and broke from wreck a couple of years ago so I ordered that and replaced it. Still the A/C only works while driving. Come to a stop and it starts blowing warm air.
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So I have had HID's on my car since the purchase back in 2007. Until recently, approx 2 months ago, if I turned on my fog lights, my car would stall out. Then about a month ago, my only of my headlights started blinking and it went out. So I decided to replace all the lights with new kits.
So I just purchased 5000K 35w headlight and 25w(only ones they sell) fog lights for my car from HIDExtra. First sets were Xentec.
1. Headlights are H7 slim ballast
2. Fog lights are 881 regular ballast but still slimmer then the original big boys
**No relays**
So the car ran fine with them for about 2 days but if I turn them on while driving the car will stall out. I didn't have this problem before so I am trying to see has something worn out or what?? I didn't have relays before.
So what I went ahead and did was order relays for the fogs and headlights in hoping it would fix the issue. I am waiting for them to come in on Wednesday. Should this fix my issue? I never had them before(maybe I should have had them).
Its like the RPM's drop then engine skips then stalls. Car goes into limp mode and CEL stays on. Turn the car off and back on and limp mode goes away but CEL stays on until I let the car stay off for a while.
Brand new battery from Advance Auto. I thought that was the original problem before getting the lights so battery cannot be the issue. Could it be alternator?? Car runs fine as long as I turn the lights on first then start it up but if I have to turn them on while in motion...stall out.
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I had a new wheel mounted by my local Mavis. They said they were unable to save the sensor valve from the old rim and sold me a new sensor. I received the car with the (S) low pressure light lit, Mavis saying that the car would reset after a few miles and if it didn't to return. Well, that light went out but the "TPMS" light then lit up and would not go out. I returned several days later and they checked with their tool and confirmed that the sensor they just installed was defective. They then replaced the sensor now telling me that the new sensor worked, they checked it and "activated" it. However, the TPMS light was still lit. They now said it "should reset". It has not.
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I'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
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My 07 is making a clicking noise while pushing on the gas, in cruise mode and while idling but doesn't click when I take my foot off the gas. It sounds like cards in bicycle spokes.
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I have a 2007 Hyundia Sonata. Currently have a 7" after-market head unit, four after-market speakers and a sub that is currently not plugged in. I also put HIDs in the low beams. It has about 73,000 miles on it. I bought it when it had 36,000 about a year and a half ago.
The first time I noticed an issue was about 3-4 months ago. Both of my stock headlights went out at the same time. I checked all fuses, nothing blown. Odd right? I thought there might be something going on with the electric but I was like O.K. i guess i'll get new ones, i could use some brighter ones anyways. So I went with Sylvia SilverstarUltra's. These lasted 2-3 months before one went out. I didn't think at the time that this was connected to the previous problem because only one went out and I drive a LOT with my headlights on during the day and SilverStarUltras have a short life span. So I bought an HID kit off ebay (just the ballast and bulb, not really a 'kit'). I installed them on Jan 28th. Today, Feb. 25, they both went out. NOT COOL!
Electronics : Sometimes as I am driving the electronics in the car "de-surge" if you will. Another words, they seem as though they have less power, the interior lights dim, the fan for the heats slows. This happens only for a second and then returns to normal. It has happened a few time. I don't remember the stereo being effected however.
Sub : The sub on my speaker system. A couple of months or so ago I noticed that my sub on my speaker system had stopped working. It was installed late last summer. I investigated and found no potential short, the ground was secure, and no fuses were blown. I didn't even think this could be related to everything else until today, but it kinda seems like it might be.
I was wondering if maybe I had created a short of some type when installing the stereo system. However nothing in the stereo system seems to be effect besides the sub. Which gets it's power directly from the battery, not the stereo system.
I read on another thread about a older Elantra that had this problem and someone mentioned that it could be the regulator in the alternator going bad and intermittently outputting too much voltage. Although I don't know why that would make the fan and lights in the car slow/dim. I'm currently trying to find someone who can lend me a voltmeter.
How I could locate an electrical problem with my stereo install, or elsewhere in my car?
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My car is a 2007 Sonata SE V6, first off looking for good suspension kits that will lower my car (just a little), and mainly stiffen my ride up ALOT because it's way too soft. OK to my point, this car sat for awhile maybe 4 or 5 months well my dad gave it to me and once I started driving it I've noticed that the front end on both sides clacks like crazy hitting bumps, it really sounds like when a car bottoms out, I'm not the best with suspension parts, to me it seems like busted shocks, is there a way I can test different parts of my front suspension to diagnose it?
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Got a "wheel bearing noise" emitting from my 2007 Sonata with a 5spd manual. I've replaced front and back wheel bearings with no noticeable change in the noise. I then rotated the tires with same result ...no noise difference. Lastly after much reading I was convinced one or both of my cv axles were at fault so I replaced both of them and unfortunately the moaning roaring noise is still very much there. The only thing I can think of at this point is that one or both of the transmission's CV support bearing is bad. I've depended on this car for a long time and it has given me great service but with 170K miles on the clock I'm afraid the tranny is going to give out and strand me in possibly a unsavory part of town..
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So, I was getting this thumping noise in the front end (predominately on the driver's side) whenever I went over bumps. The car was at the dealership for something else and I asked them to check it out. With 145k miles I thought that it was the struts, but they said the struts were fine. They said the Upper control arms needed to be replaced along with the stabilizer bar links and the lower ball joint on the passenger side. Ok. Not a problem. I got the parts from Rock Auto. I replaced all the parts this past weekend and I'm still getting the thumping.
So, other than the lower control arms the only other two parts I can see that might cause that noise is either the outer tie rod ends or the struts. Anyone think it would be the tie rod ends over the struts? I can get a set of tie rod ends for $30 from Rock Auto. The struts are more expensive (I get the quick change struts with the coil and everything.)
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2007 Sonata V6. He's spent many hours and a good chunk of change at the dealership trying to get it fixed and nothing has worked yet. They honestly have no clue whats wrong which kinda scares me.
First off here is his problem. Occasionally when he starts the car it will idle very rough and struggles to accelerate to 30-40mph. When this happens he pulls over and shuts the car off for a few minutes then it will run fine again. When all of this happens there is no CEL or any light at all that flashes or comes on the dash.
Here is a list of things that have been replaced
Fuel pump
Throttle position sensor
Crank sensor
Plugs, wires and coil pack
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2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
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So my battery is dead dead.... Looking to charge it, but of course, the alarm goes off. How do I turn it off?
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I'm fixing a 2007 Sonata that was in a front end collision, I've replaced everything that was ruined in the wreck (as far as I know), and also replaced the SRS control module, impact sensors, and also the airbag. The car starts with starting fluid and there isn't any damage to the engine so I'm not concerned with something being wrong with that, but the fuel pump won't prime and before the wreck it drove fine. So what could impede the fuel pump from priming? I've checked the wires and they're not sending power to the fuel pump so I feel like the pump should still be fine, it's just it's not getting power. What could cause this?
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I have a 07 Sonata and having recurring valve cover leak. First time it happened it leaked onto my alternator and had to get car towed and whole bit. About a year later they discovered it again during routine oil change and had it fixed again. Yesterday during a routine oil change, they discovered a leak again!! I know this is an established problem but how many times can the same problem occur?? I'm passed the warranty (103K).
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Suddenly my 2007 Sonata Limited trunk and gas lid fuse keeps blowing.
I'm not an electrical guy so I don't know how to check with a meter, I oiled the latches. My car was rear ended near the tank lid/bumper area a few years ago, but everything worked fine til recently.
I can replace the fuse, but after a few uses it will blow, sometimes it will blow without being used. I can't tell if it's the trunk or gas lid causing the problem because nothing will happen immediately, Basically I am only finding out my fuse blew when I need to use it.
Where I could look to inspect the wiring for kinks or it's connection run?
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I just bought 07 Sonata CRDI tiptronic and it turns out it has problem when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear: rpms jump up and i feel the kick.
It is not that noticeable when shifting at 50kmph, but worse when shifting at 60k kmph.
Same on Drive or when shifting manually. What the problem could be?
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