Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Trunk And Gas Lid Blowing Fuses
May 28, 2014
Suddenly my 2007 Sonata Limited trunk and gas lid fuse keeps blowing.
I'm not an electrical guy so I don't know how to check with a meter, I oiled the latches. My car was rear ended near the tank lid/bumper area a few years ago, but everything worked fine til recently.
I can replace the fuse, but after a few uses it will blow, sometimes it will blow without being used. I can't tell if it's the trunk or gas lid causing the problem because nothing will happen immediately, Basically I am only finding out my fuse blew when I need to use it.
Where I could look to inspect the wiring for kinks or it's connection run?
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So I installed my XS HID low beams and fogs a couple of weeks ago, and everything was working fantastic. However, when I installed my LED turns and load resistors, whenever I turn on the low beams, the inline 30A fuse pops. The HID fogs continue to work. The switchback turns work great, and I have never got any hyperflashing.
I have checked all the connections, and they all seem strong. I have used the diagram I found on here from exLEDshop outlining all the connections on the pin array for the headlight harness. I am tapped into the blue wire on the driver's side for + turn and the black for -, and the black w/orange stripe on the passenger side for + turn, and the black for -. If I accidentally have the load resistors connected to the wrong wire, would the turns hyperflash?
I know that it would be better if I used grounding points on the chassis for the load resistors, but could this be causing the short? Or could bad ballasts that are the culprit? The only reason I'm leaning away from it being the ballasts is because they worked fine until I put the load resistors in.
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In January I had to replace my engine in a 2007 Toyota Yaris. Last week we had the first day, since the engine replacement, that I needed to use the air. The fan blows air, it just isn't cold. Could this be anything to do with the engine replacement? Maybe they didn't hook something up properly? Do the drain the coolant to the ac when they take out the engine? I have been reading that it may simply be a fuse or needs to be charged. I realize I should have checked the a/c when I picked it up, but at -8 below, air conditioning doesn't cross your mind.
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In my 2007 SF Ltd 3.3L both the Cig lighter and front console power outlet keep blowing fuses. I've checked inside the of the sockets and they seem just fine. This is no big deal but I would like to charge my phone. What I should look at next?
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I have a 2006 F350, it keeps blowing fuses for the brake/turn signals. The puzzling​ part is it only does this when the truck is running.
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I have a 2001 Olds Alero. The AC compressor went out so my father in law and I replaced it. It worked fine for about one month, not it keeps blowing the a 10 amp fuse (can't remember which one at this moment, my wife is at the store with the car). I have been told that it is a bad wire, I can't see any pinche wires and have looked up to where the wires go into the tape/plastic casing. I have also been told that it is the compressor that is doing it (the parts store said this was not the case... I think they just don't wanna warranty anything).
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I bought used, and the ignition key will not open up the trunk. Do I need a separate key for that?
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92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
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So I just got a new Passport Radar for the car and noticed that im getting no power...Checked the fuse box and and fuse was blown...replace it and the fuse blows automatically.
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I have a 2007. So as the title says, my battery is completely dead, and my trunk is locked. I have the master key, but for some reason, it won't unlock the trunk. It will unlock the front door, but not the trunk. The switch on the dash won't release the trunk because the battery is dead, and the seat release is in the locked position, so I can't get in my trunk from inside the cabin either. This is an incredibly inconvenient situation, because I have jumper cables right there inside of my trunk.
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Own a 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3L.
Having an issue where the trunk indicator light stays on on the dash and won't turn off; just started yesterday. It causes the car alarm to go off prematurely when the car is locked via remote and will not beep when locked twice with remote indicating that it is locked.
Otherwise the trunk functions properly, opens and closes fine, latches fine. The only work done in the past 3 months was an oil change a few days ago.
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Ok so this started with the ignition key cylinder locking and refusing to turn. Some tri-flow, patience and judicious taps of a hammer fixed that issue, but not before i pried apart the plastic cap that keeps the little spring loaded plunger in place that actuates the ding ding when the key is inserted to the ignition. This little plunger has a couple of contacts and is wired to the little green bulb that illuminates the ring around the ignition key. Everything was just fine until i caused an arc between the exposed contacts and the side of the ignition cylinder.
Now neither the fob nor the door switch will lock or unlock the doors or the trunk unless the key is in the 'on' position. It should be hot at all times. What have I shorted out? I checked all the fuses and of course they are fine. My nightmare is that i have messed up an expensive module. I did find the plastic cap and plunger hiding under and behind the heat ducts to the rear seats and put that back together, so there are no exposed contacts, but the damage has been done.
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I have a 2006 Sonata. The trunk will not open with remote, latch or key. What do I do? There isnt a vallet switch.
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I have Sonata 06 3.3L V6, vacuum getting confirmed code p0171 system too lean bank 1,and pending faults are both lean and rich on both banks and also at idle. i check vacuum leaks but no luck, one thing I observed when I drove car at high speed only 3000 rpm or above LTFT 1 corrected to 0. I am using torque app.
I can not open my trunk through remote key, it is opening with driver side switch, trunk lid latch is unlocked position, remote key is working fine with doors.?
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I just got my led switch back lights in for my 08 camry. But I have run into a problem I have installed all four led signal lights (switch backs in the front and led ambers in the back) and the led flash relay for my car. What is happening is that the led will turn on for a couple of seconds and then the fuse for the signal lights burns out both the one under the dash and the one under the hood.
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I've blown my turn signal fuse for 3 times until the relay burned out. Now I have had cleaned turn signal switch (with CC) from all of the old stuff in there and replaced hazard switch. But it happens again! After 5 minutes driving, both fuses (7,5 AMP for turn signals and 15 AMP hazard) blown out. I'm afraid there are some shorts in wirings.
I'm looking for the wiring diagrams or any other users experience in this matter... Where shall I start from?
There was a water leakage behind and under drivers seat. I removed trims etc. to lift the carpet to take the Comfort Module for checking as there were some weird thing in overall car electric systems (central locking, saloon lightnings, electric windows and dropping gauges on instrument panel. I found a small amount of water in container, where the module is placed, but on the electric parts weren't any water marks... Also it's impossible to connect to the CCM via vag-com.
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Several weeks ago, my wife drove our Outback for 10 minutes, turned the car off, then turned it back on after 10 minutes. After 15 minutes of its being on the second time and the car being in a car line, the red temperature indicator blinked, then went solid. She pulled over to let it cool, then put coolant in the overflow reservoir when she got home. The reservoir was nearly empty. The very next day, the exact same thing happened, in the exact same sequence - 10 minutes on, 10 off, 15 minutes on in a car line, then indicator came on again.
I took it to a mechanic who could not reproduce the issue after letting it run for four hours. He replaced the fuses and told us to bring him the car when the problem recurred. Reservoir tank is full, no blockage in line from radiator to overflow tank.
The next day, for a third time, the car overheated in the pickup line. We brought it in the following day. The mechanic finally was able to reproduce the issue. He said that both fans (a subi outback has two) needed to be replaced, as they were drawing a tremendous amount. He advised that I take it to subaru to find out if there was anything they could do re: warranty.
I took it to subaru, who said that the fans are not now under warranty (we have 65k on the car). I decided to have them replace the fans anyway, so I asked them for a diagnosis. However, after two days in the shop, they were unable to reproduce the problem. They ran the car in idle, they tried to recreate the stop-and-go/standstill environment of a carline, but no luck. They said that the fans were drawing the expected amount and that they would need recreate in order to diagnose.
I have two questions:
1) Should I replace the fans myself? I can either take the car back to the first mechanic and have him replace the fans or I can do it myself. I can do basic jobs like oil changes, replacing serpentine belts, but I'm not sure what nuances are involved with replacing anything electrical.
2) Most importantly: What would cause both fans in a relatively young subi to spike their amperage draw intermittently? I guess it's possible that i just got two bad fans, but that doesn't seem to be a common problem with this model. So, I want to make sure that this issue is not indicative of some other underlying problem.
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About 11pm 2 nights ago on our way to Florida, hit a nasty bump on I-95 in SC and there went the fuse to the tail lights and dash lights (#17 I believe). Obviously something shook loose from the jarring of that bump and blew the fuse. I've blown this fuse before, but I thought it was due to a cracked LR tail light assembly holding water, which was replaced last weekend.
Now I replace the fuse, and as soon as I hit the headlight switch...it blows again. Holding my breath running around FL at night until the man pulls me over for no tail lights. So far, here's what work has been done:
- Replaced entire LR tail light assembly with new one, new bulbs, new bulb plugs - Sprayed electrical cleaner all over harness plugs, and used electrical grease to hook it back up
- Sprayed electrical cleaner into both trailer plugs
- Did replace both batteries last weekend - noticed on the drivers side battery appears to be some relays next to the battery on the fenders - one appeared to be beat up probably due to prior battery replacements - no clue what they do
I am at a total loss. Worse fear is I can't figure this out and I have to turn it over to the dealership
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Why the rear Auxiliary A/C blower on a 2004 Sport Trac keeps blowing fuses and how to fix it?
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2006 Sonata GLS. When I lock/unlock door with keyfob, it beeps, but doors or trunks will not open/close. When I put key in ignition and either start or turn to on, I can press keyfob and lock/unlock doors and unlock trunk. Manual trunk release in drivers foot area does nothing unless car is on. Checked all fuses (passenger driver compartment and under hood). What is the exact fuse to focus on, or if this could be some other issue ? BCM ?
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Having an issue with my car blowing fuel pump fuses every once in a while under heavy to moderate acceleration. Have replaced inline fuel filter and the fuel pump resister(white ceramic part). Runs fine with normal driving, but when I want to get some horses out of it, it will cut out and stall and once i replace blown fuse it will start back up again, and I'm off and running again.
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