Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Severe Hesitation / Car Almost Quits On Accelerating From A Stopped Position
Jul 6, 2011
I purchased a 2007 Sonata with the 3.3L about six months ago. I really like the car, it has a lot of good features and lots of power; however, I am starting to have problems with the car. On accelerating from a stopped position the car almost quits (hesitates severely) and then picks up and goes on normally. Also, between 40 and 50 mph the car starts to jerk pretty hard for a few seconds and then it straightens out and runs normally again; it will do this repeatedly if it is kept between 40 and 50 mph.
When this first started happening the CEL would come on randomly and stay on for a day or two and then go off. While the CEL was on I took it to Autozone and had them pull the code, they said it was the crankshaft position sensor. Well based on the symptoms the diagnosis made sense. I replaced the sensor and the car seemed to be running normally on the 30 minute test drive. The next day my wife drove to work and she said the same symptoms had come back. It has been several weeks since I replaced the sensor and the CEL has not come back on. I have seen several postings about the spark plugs and wires and that is my next step. BTW the car has 94k miles.
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Relative owns a 2007 Sonata 3.3L V6 (58k or so), purchased from in-laws so no warranty, unfortunately. Recently, in cold weather the car has developed hesitation issues upon start up, ESC-Off light illuminates and CEL. Has to restart for somewhat normal operation.
Had a chance to look at it today and CEL had already turned off and only code stored is P2135.
Researching issue (mostly here, so thx!), looks like TPS is faulty and can be replaced separate from throttle body to save $.
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I have been getting a P0011 error code. Changed the OCV but the code continues. I'm going to try replacing the CMPS but am not quite sure of the location on the 2007 Sonata GLS. Looking for any pics of the location or a description?
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I have a 2007 3.3L Sonata.
The car has been sitting for around 8 hours. Wh en I start it, the idle moves up and down about 100rmps. When I drive off there is a slight hesitation until I have driven for about 10-15 minutes. The idle is nice and steady after the too.
If I use a fuel system cleaner, it appears the car is fine for awhile and then the issue comes back.
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My husband (yes, him not me) drove my car (2009 Subaru Forester) last night and admitted this morning to enjoying driving through numerous puddles. I'm pretty sure it was more of a rally-car type of driving, not the careful-who-knows-what-is-in-this-puddle type. The car wasn't driven since then, until this evening. I backed out of the driveway- no issues. I started to pull forward and there was a horrible screeching noise. I stopped, backed up & pulled forward again- nothing. So I drove to the end of the block, still nothing.
Pulling away from the stop sign- screeching again. My first thought was metal was dragging on the ground- nope. Turned around & went back home, inspected the car- nothing seems loose or out of place. It seems I can get the noise to happen if I accelerate normally from a stopped position, but if I start out very gingerly its okay. It happens between 1500 & 2000 RPMs, the wheels can be straight or turned.
We pulled off the rear passenger wheel (where the noise seemed to come from) and noticed the nut/bolt thing that is in the center of the bolts for the lug nuts (on the break assembly- I think) is damaged. There is a bright blue mark on it and a divot in the metal. This is the only damage we can see. With the wheel on, it is covered by the center of the hub cap.
My car is a manual transmission and the breaks have never been in use when the noise happens. What could cause the noise...
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I have an '07 Hyundai Sonata (4 cylinder) with the sunroof and XM. Yesterday, someone nearly hit me with their car and told me that my brake lights stopped working. I went home and tested it out and it doesn't seem to work at all. (The third brake light died out a week ago). I checked fuses and they seemed to be okay, tried replacing them with spare ones and still doesn't work (My old rover always had fuse problems). Bulbs look fine and they're definitely not burned out.
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2008 3.3L 77,800 miles (approx). Bought this car as a replacement for my totaled 2006 back in May 2011. I have noticed on morning starts or hot starts after car has sat for about 30 min, a 'Rod knock" sound that quits exactly at the same time the oil light goes out. I bought this car with 60K on it, with all 60K maintenance items done by dealer. I have since replaced oil on 5K intervals, have used 5w-30, 5w-20. Genuine Hyundai filters and one Fram cartridge. Nothing has changed. The car runs ok, other than horrible gas mileage ( average 2.8 LESS than my '06 under same conditions and verified by manual calculations). While the car runs ok, the noise unnerves me every time i hear it. Once i get lights out on oil pressure it never is heard again until the next start. Is this something I need to be concerned with? I had a sample of the oil analyzed at 65k, and came back good.
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I have been experiencing a slight issue with my 07 Sonata V6 lately. When I am accelerating, most commonly when already at speed around 80 to 90 km/h, I would hear this 2-3 ticks / clicks when I press lightly or moderately on the accelerator pedal. The car would accelerate fine without any further noises. When I release the pedal, the car slows down a bit, and I press on the pedal again, then the same sound re-appears.
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I have a 07 Camry LE. I recently replaced the belt tensioner and belt. A couple, maybe three weeks later its having symptoms of hesitation when accelerating and when at a stop. The rpm's are stable but seem to dip below its operating specification, causing the car to come to a wobble felt just like when you're in too low a gear when driving a standard vehicle. I suspect it may be air related but that's just a guess. I have not looked under the hood yet since its dark out and would like to get some feedback on this problem. Another probable cause I suspect is the fuel filter. The car has 113,000 miles and i doubt its ever been changed (I am the second owner).
Before I changed the tensioner I could be a stop and then suddenly press the accelerator to avoid oncoming traffic. The car will stall and die sometimes. It's has only done this to me on two occasions. Both at the same location. Rapid acceleration at this point was on an incline. If it matters.
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I have sent my 2008 ES350, 47K to a dealer since it has a bit hesitation on accelerating; RPM goes upto 3K easily to get engaged to next one.
The dealer told me that no hardware problem but they did update a tranny firmware. They added that it may work right away or work after 3~4 fuelings.
What would be next step?
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Purchased this vehicle new in Dec. 2011.Within a day or so,I noticed a hesitation when completely stopped and waiting for traffic to pass to make a left turn.
I started to proceed for this turn,but,no power when I slowly accelerated. All of a sudden,big surge of power ! Went to the Dealer to check this out.They said they drove the car for 7 miles,checked it scanner,etc.,but could not find the problem.
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I have a 2010 accent 2.0 with 110k. When accelerating from a stop it seems to hesitate or miss in the first 20 ft or so. The service engine light has not come on which indicates to me it's not in the emission sensors. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2007 LS 460 with about 50,000 miles. Some 18 months ago, at about 35,000 miles,right after a service, I began to experience hesitation/lack of power when accelerating from a stop. Lexus fixed this by doing a software update to the transmission.
All was well till last month, when again right after a service, the car hesitated and totally lacked power , most noticeable from a rolling stop. Revs would very gradually climb to 5,000, with foot flat on accelerator, yet car barely moving. Once speed built up to highway speeds, car reacted normally. Took it back to Park Place Lexus who held the car for 10 days and did a major job changing the cylinder head, I think per L-SB-0033-08.
A month later, the hesitation/lack of power is even worse then before! I suspect the issue is the transmission, and the big surgery on the engine done last month was not required. After nearly being hit trying to merge with traffic today, the vehicle is back at the dealership, and I took their head tech for a drive. He experienced the problem, but did not venture a solution. He told me they take instructions on what to do directly from Lexus.
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I have owned this car for six months. The car now has 39K. The problem is getting worse.
Re: Lexus 2011 LS460 AWD
Subject: Hesitation / momentary loss of power when accelerating after turn.
When accelerating after a sharp turn with light to moderate acceleration, the car will have a momentary loss of power for about 1, 2, or even 3 seconds. This does not happen often, but perhaps once every two weeks and I cannot replicate the problem despite attempting to do so.
In all cases, I am talking about DRY pavement. It always happens after a sharp turn usually to the right. (Probably because most sharp turns are to the right actually it only happened once on a left turn that I will describe below.) Acceleration is light to moderate NOT hard acceleration.
In one case it caused a serious situation. I had just purchased gas and was entering a busy freeway. When accelerating, the engine had a total loss of power for a couple seconds as a large semi truck bore down on me with its air horns blaring.
I have a strong clue that may debug this problem. Once, when turning left, the car suffered a total loss of power. There was no traffic and I kept my foot lightly on the throttle. The car remained unresponsive. The engine did not stop, but it did not respond and remained this way for at least 5 seconds until I took my foot off the accelerator and then back on to the accelerator. During this period of suspended throttle, I noticed that on the right side of the dash an orange alert symbol was flashing I think it was a swerving car? I assume this indicated that the car was losing traction and the computer decided to cut power until traction was regained. But the pavement was dry, and the acceleration was normal. In no case did I ever sense that one of the wheels was slipping.
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I have a 2010 Sonata GLS 4-cylinder approximately 124K miles which has been hesitating on hard accelerations for about 8 months. It will usually do this when getting on an on-ramp for the freeway or if I need to do a U-turn and get up to speed quickly. What happens is I punch the gas and the vehicle acts as if it's not getting any gas and hesitates or stalls and then it finally takes off. Usually I see a cloud of grey/white smoke behind the car enough that I am unable to see any cars in my rear view mirror.
I do not seem to see a difference when the vehicle is warm/cold. I do not have a CEL nor have had one. I have replaced the MAP sensor, PCV valve and spark plugs (properly gapped). I have done a compression test and am getting roughly 180-185 psi per cylinder. I am not experiencing any oil loss/coolant loss, do not see any oil in the coolant or gummed-up or oily spark plugs. I have also replaced the transmission fluid, doing a drain and flushing the torque converter. I have also cleaned the throttle body, and am using a new air filter and the oil has been changed within the past 1000 miles.
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About once every 4-6 months or so, when I floor the accelerator, my Sonata behaves in a very odd way. Instead of the typical surge of acceleration, it actually hesitates/decelerates for a second or so, then kicks in like normal. This is so pronounced that I lunge forward in my seat a bit before it kicks in. I've not yet been in a situation were this behavior has endangered me but it is quite disconcerting when it does happen. Obviously this is not something that is repeatable in a manner for any shop to diagnose. There is no CEL and it occurs so infrequently that I'm not that concerned about it yet. The only consistency about this is that this occurs while driving around town after I've slowed down to around 5-10 MPH approaching a light, taken a right turn and then attempt to accelerate into traffic. Since I'm usually in a turn lane, I'm out of the way of traffic and can adjust to this situation without any issues to either myself or the traffic around me.
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2006 Sonata 3.3 liter engine with 123K miles. While driving between 30-40 mph, when I "feather" the gas pedal the car will shudder. It does not happen every time but it usually happens a couple times when it does. I see no change in rpm, transmission fluid is at a good level.
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Ok, got a hesitation when the engine is cold, almost feels like a miss. Dealer could not find anything and there are no engine codes. They wanted to replace the plugs with new platinum plugs. I said did you pull any plugs, not that is what the tech said it could be. Could it be the Mass air flow sensor? Or a coil. After a mile or 2 it is fine. I switched to shell premium since dealer told me I had to get a decarbonization from using cheap gas. I used exxon regular and BP regular with a treat of premium every few tanks. But now I am on shell and they said I needed another decarbonization, This is getting rather expensive, I may go back to my local mechanic once the warranty is out. But the hesitation puzzles me.
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I had an oil pump failure in 1 2.4 L Sonata, 2006. I am ready to install the new oil pump balance shaft unit but cannot find where the timing marks on the pump pulley and crank should be? The service manual I bought simply says the correct position is critical. Any position or a simple diagram or link? It is a chain drive pump.
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I was driving my Accent yesterday when suddenly it shuttered and stopped accelerating, it was still on because my RPM gauge would move when I hit the gas, when I went to pull over it was very difficult almost as if my power steering was not working. Now that it is off it will not start, it cranks but will not turn over. We tried a new battery, but that did not work. What it most likely is, I have 109k miles on it.
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About 2 weeks ago my Elantra began displaying the symptom of struggling to start after fueling. The check engine light came on with P0170/P0171 codes for fuel trim malfunction. Did my research and replaced the fuel pump. After this, the car struggled to start all the time until after a few days, while I was driving, the car struggled to accelerate and jerked like crazy trying to. Did more research and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. After this the car drove beautifully for about an hour and then again stopped accelerating, jerking like crazy and lost all speed. Error code P0441 Evaporative Emissions now was the only one on. I filled the gas tank (it had been low) and for another hour the car was fine and then the trouble started again. After turning it off the car would not start at all. Now I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor but that did not fix it. All the relays and sensors look good. What to do next. It still won't start.
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