I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
View 1 RepliesI was on my drive in to work Wednesday and the car once warmed up started surging and cutting out. I got it to work and home again and hooked up my code reader and came up with P0304 meaning misfire in number 4 cylinder.
View 2 RepliesWhen looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle. what numbers are the cylinders from left to right? To curtail off of that question where do I locate the corresponding ignition coils to these c I have been dealing with intermittent misfires on cylinders 1 and 3 codes P0300, P0301, P0303. I replaced the spark plugs to no avail. Whenever the vehicle shudders the headlights dim and the shuddering is worse when the vehicle is placed in gear, the A/C fan is on, or the vehicle is accelerating. Once I reach a certain speed, usually 35-40 mph, I don't notice until I again slow down. I replaced the spark plugs the day after I had the first issue appear which read code P0301. Prior to installing the spark plugs, I experienced a severe loss of acceleration power, but now only experience the shuddering.
2011 Hyundai Accent 63500 miles ....
I have a 2006 F150 with a cylinder #1 misfire only code p0301. I have done new spark plugs, new coil packs, and new fuel injector on cylinder #1 with no luck. What to do next?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 F350. It started running rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I did an injector buzz test and found no codes. Cylinder contribution check showed cylinder one was not functioning. I replaced number one injector, cleaned injector cup installed new injector and copper washer. Engine runs the same. If it was a wiring harness issue should that have shown up in the buzz test?
View 8 Replies2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
I'm getting a P0305 error code (#5 cylinder misfire) on my wife's 2007 sonata. Wanted to know where cylinder # 5 is located. Also, it would be useful to know where all cylinders are located, for future reference.
View 9 RepliesI got a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited (Platinum Edition), 6 cylinder, 3.3L at 110,000 miles. Got a Check Engine light a month ago, checked it at Autozone and it showed P0171 and P0174 codes (Fuel System Too Lean). The code was cleared and I drew the car for about a month, and the light came back on again recently. Checked it again and now it is showing PO133 code (slow response (heated oxygen sensor bank 1)). What could it be if not the O2 sensor or bad wiring or cracks/leaks in the exhaust?
View 3 RepliesHave a 2007 Sonata limited 3.3l, have trouble code P2507 and the car is stuck in limp home mode. Already changed input and output sensors on tranny. Battery is putting out 12V and alternator is putting out 14V when running. Cleaned PCM connections and packed with dielectric grease. Not sure where to look next.
View 6 RepliesI do not feel any difference in the transmission performance but the code has been cleared twice and keeps returning so the symptom is persistent. Can't find the 08 sub-code on the internet anywhere so guess I will have to visit the dealer.
View 6 RepliesI have already concluded I need to replace my OCV on my 2007 2.4L GLS Sonata.
I have also been starting to hear a clicking noise associated with reducing throttle when in the 2500-3100 rpm range. It seems to only make this quiet clicking noise when the throttle is reducing and within the RPM range from above.
I am just wondering if this may be associated with the OCV needing to be replaced. I suppose I will find out for sure when I do finally get around to replacing the OCV sometime this month.
I have a 2010 VW GTI, approx 48,XXX miles and need a hesitation diagnosis. The car is throwing a P0301 code, I have replaced the plug, coil, and check the coil harness. I think it may be the injector, so I replaced the fuel filter but don't want to do the injector on a whim. I don't want to take it to the dealer if I don't have too!! I live in Silver Spring MD.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla with a 1.8 L. I have the misfire code P0301. I have changed the plugs, ignition coil, and fuel injector on cylinder one. It still has the misfire.
View 5 RepliesThe vehicle is a 2002 Ford Windstar van with a 3.8L V-6 engine. It has a constant miss on the #1 cylinder. That's the one on the backside of the V-6 on the passenger end of the engine. I have changed the plug(s) and still had the miss and P0301 code. The plug's wire has about 7500 Ohms, so it's not the problem. I hear no snapping of a high voltage short to ground. A friend suggested that the injector might be the issue, but I am of the opinion that the scan code shows only a high tension or secondary ignition system issue, and not fuel injection issues. I'm thinking the problem is more likely to be the coil pack.
View 19 RepliesWe bought a used 2001 Grand Am (V6 automatic) a few months ago. Mileage was just under 100,000. It was running decently at first, but that improved once we did more maintenance. It's gone from about 150 miles on the highway on a full tank to about 250. A lot of the problems didn't reveal themselves until we took it onto the highways. These are the parts we changed in the last 2 months:
-new battery (old one was 0.1 above fail)-all 6 spark plugs-catalytic converter-front oxygen sensor-oil filter-timing belt-pcv valve and breather hose (old one melted)-all 4 shocks/struts
Latest problem is OBD code P0301 cylinder #1 misfire. The entire car started to shake when we were in low speed in a drive thru. It only seems to shake in drive gear and it does it the whole time. It doesn't shake in reverse or any other gear. Found out #1 spark plug was cracked and a chunk of the ceramic portion was missing. It got replaced but that didn't fix the problem. Haven't noticed any white exhaust yet. The ignition fails 1/7 of the time since P0301surfaced.
The last problem we had was P0420. We went to 3 different shops and nobody was able to fix the problem properly. It wasn't until the pcv valve and breather hose were replaced that the code disappeared. The valve was actually cracked and parts of the breather hose were melted. I can't understand why nobody noticed that.
I know there could be a lot going on, but I was hoping the possible problem could be narrowed down.
So I changed my spark plugs, due to an error code saying p0301 which means cylinder one misfiring. I reset the engine light disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Once it reset it ran rough for a few miles. I put about 50 miles on it and it seems better.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Prius that I purchased 6 months ago and have been really happy with it until the last couple of months. As the weather is getting colder appears I have a misfiring problem on start-up
I have had this problem now for a little while and have been trying to get it understood before paying $$ at the dealer for "maybe" solutions.
It started as the weather got colder. Intermittently the check engine light would come on. Then after a few days would go off.
I have considered water in the line: fuel injection cleaner/antifreeze
I have considered bad gas in the tank: problem persists several fuel tanks later
I have recently purchased a trouble code reader/diagnostic that plugs into my laptop. Trouble code is p0301. Cylinder 1 misfire.
I have taken it in to the shop.They tried:
>>moving the ignitor coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4,
>>and also tried moving the spark plug from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2.
>>performed compression test. Ok
The dealer suggests replacing the injector line for $1400+.( They did this with warm engine. They have not diagnosed cold engine yet. That is new, read more,...) I still have 5K kilometers left on the power-train warranty. If it is power-train I would like it resolved before warranty expires.
Now. Some new info as of yesterday:
Up till now I was not using the diagnostic monitor real time. but that started yesterday,... Last night when I got home from work while the engine was still warm I connected the diagnostic monitor and went for a drive. Every few minutes I would pull over and refresh the cylinder misfiring data. I had hardly any misfires across all the cylinders at all. Maybe 1 or 2, here or there over the span of a 10 minute warm engine ride. Up and down hilly terrain. Nothing that came close to triggering the p0301 trouble code. I parked the car outside and let it rest overnight.
'07 Avalon with 169k miles. I replaced all 3 back coils and 6 plugs back in December when I had various misfires, but the most common code was P0301 which is cylinder 1.
Car ran great until last week when I made a hard left and accelerated. CEL started flashing, read code and it's P0301. Every time I accelerate half throttle or more I can set the code off, but then shutting down car and restarting it drives fine, until I go half throttle. Car runs better when cold, and worse when I turn left and accelerate.
As long as I don't mash the gas I can drive for a half hour or so without the strumbling/hesitation. Surely the new coil hasn't failed so soon, I hate to pull the wipers, plenum,etc. and buy another coil just on a chance that might solve the issue. Car is only throwing a P0301 this time, no other codes like before. I've read a clogged cat or sticky exhaust valve could cause a cyl misfire.
My 97 F150 through a CEL Tuesday night P0301 so I picked up a new plug because it's cheap and simple, but that didn't do anything. Spark plug wires are about 3 months old, I also swapped injectors between 1 and 2, and misfire stayed with cylinder 1. It also gained a tap when the misfire started but only above idle, but it doesn't sound like a rod knock.
I also noticed if you unplug injector 1at idle it taps/knocks 3 or 4 times, however if you unplug any of the others it doesn't do that. I checked and I definitely have good spark from the plug. I plan on picking up a new compression tester tomorrow since mine never was returned. If you take the oil fill cap off it doesn't have any blow by at idle, however if you rev it you get a quick cloud out of it.
I thought about picking up a kit to check the injector pulse.
This happened xmas shopping with the wife. Started misfiring on the highway,took the 1st exit to find a garage as I am 20kms from home. The vibrations were worse at stop, but made it to a garage. They gave me the p0301 misfire cylinder 1, said they don't touch 5.4 plugs, told me to go to ford 2kms down the road. NICE. 4 in the pm, FORD dealer worse case scenario. Nope gave me a loaner told me come back at 930am. Truck was just waiting for an injector when I arrived. Plug & coil were good injector was shot,changed the fuel filter & oil change.
View 6 Replies2009 corolla 1.8l 155,000 miles. Replaced iridium spark plugs at 100,000
I got a CEL few weeks ago, P0301 Toyota - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Car has been running bad for about 2 weeks now, excise noise on the highway, especially up hills.
Yesterday, I took a look, replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1, same results. Checked the coils using one of those flashing tools, all 4 flashed quickly, with no breaks in flashing. put it all back together, cleared the code, went home.
Took it out for a drive today, and it started running way worse. Checked the CEL, and now I have both P0301 and P0303 Misfire on cylinder 1 and 3. Barely made it home, ran VERY VERY bad.
Got home, and made a video of it. It just kept dying. Check it out here. [URL] .....
Also, when it does run, it almost sounds like I can hear excess air, its hard to hear in video, but doesn't sound right. Maybe air leak? How do I check?