Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - HIDs Causes Car To Stall Out
Jan 24, 2012
So I have had HID's on my car since the purchase back in 2007. Until recently, approx 2 months ago, if I turned on my fog lights, my car would stall out. Then about a month ago, my only of my headlights started blinking and it went out. So I decided to replace all the lights with new kits.
So I just purchased 5000K 35w headlight and 25w(only ones they sell) fog lights for my car from HIDExtra. First sets were Xentec.
1. Headlights are H7 slim ballast
2. Fog lights are 881 regular ballast but still slimmer then the original big boys
**No relays**
So the car ran fine with them for about 2 days but if I turn them on while driving the car will stall out. I didn't have this problem before so I am trying to see has something worn out or what?? I didn't have relays before.
So what I went ahead and did was order relays for the fogs and headlights in hoping it would fix the issue. I am waiting for them to come in on Wednesday. Should this fix my issue? I never had them before(maybe I should have had them).
Its like the RPM's drop then engine skips then stalls. Car goes into limp mode and CEL stays on. Turn the car off and back on and limp mode goes away but CEL stays on until I let the car stay off for a while.
Brand new battery from Advance Auto. I thought that was the original problem before getting the lights so battery cannot be the issue. Could it be alternator?? Car runs fine as long as I turn the lights on first then start it up but if I have to turn them on while in motion...stall out.
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I have an '07 Sonata and I just recently had an after market HID kit installed. My car has since periodically stalled and the check engine light came on. I ran the codes and they are P0698- Sensor C Reference Voltage CKT low, and P2110- Throttle Actuator Control System forced limited RPM. What does this mean and how can I fix it? I had a second battery installed so I know I have enough to power everything.
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I recently installed HID lights in both the low beam and fog/driving lights on my 2008 Sonata Limited. I used relay wiring kits so the HID's pull power straight from the battery. When I turn on the HID's after starting the car, the engine stalls and throws a check engine light with codes P0698 & P2110. Took the car to the dealer and all they really did was verify the codes and clear them claiming it was fixed...NOT!!
If I restart the engine 2-3 times with the HID's off, the check engine light clears itself and if I rev the engine RPM's while turning on the HID's then it's no problem. The HID's otherwise work great..and again the only power they pull from the car's electrical wiring is the signal from the headlight switch wiring that trips the relay to turn the HID's on!! The HID relay wiring kits have inline 20amp fuses between the battery and relays and they are fine, so the HID's can't be pulling that much current.
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I tried installing my new DDMTuning 35W 6000K HID headlights with relay harness. No issues until I went to turn the car on and actually power them up. Neither side would work. I checked my power connection, ground, in-line fuse, swapped out the relay, tried without the harness, and nothing worked. I tried putting the stock bulbs back in and I found out they wouldn't turn on either.
I found the issue to be a blown 20 amp fuse in slot 23 (see pic). I replaced it and tried to turn the car on with the HIDs and it blew again. I hooked the stock lights back up and they seem to work fine now with another new fuse. The fuse description says H/LP LO and HID LO LH. Why this fuse is blowing. I am wondering if I just need a higher amperage fuse because of the HID power (in line for harness is 30 amp) or if something else is the culprit. I'm stumped.
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Earlier today i left my car idling for a couple of minutes and when i got back in and started to drive the car was vibrating, almost as if it was going to stall and the check engine light was flashing. drove a bit and stopped, started the car and now the check engine light stays on constantly. I have had the light come on (and remain on) a few times in the last while but it is usually solved by tightening the gas cap. it always seems to happen when i am low on gas (100 mile range-ish) Someone suggested maybe i had dirty gas in the car and needed stabilizer. My boyfriend said its a "misfire" and to change the spark plugs.
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I noticed going up hill when the RPM's hit around 2100 RPM this morning it looked like my HID's went into a strobe type pulse. They stayed on but got brighter every partial second. Even from a stop if I accelerated with more than 2k RPM the lights flickered.
It's done it for two days, which happened to be in the single digits tempature wise. Do you think it's my alternator or my battery having the issues? Car is a 2012 so I'm leaning more toward battery load issues.
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Both of my bulbs flicker, intermittently. They will flicker, most times not at the same time as one another, for about 5 to 15 seconds then stop. I have not yet been able to detect a pattern. The battery is fully powered and the resistors are not throwing a code so I assume they are working (I installed them to eliminate an error code and stabilize the voltage). The capacitors (or "error eliminators") I have installed do not seem to do anything.
This problem just started recently too, they never used to flicker at all. The only problem I had is I used to get a bulb out warning but like I said I got rid of that by adding resistors. The bulbs are only 5 months old.
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Can make the front turn signal witch is also the parking light into a hid?? And how to change the bulbs in the mirror turn signal?
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Well, was excited to finally get these things installed and they looked and were working perfectly. Unfortunately after one hour of use, whilst pulling into the garage, the drivers side bulb just cuts out completely. Check all the wiring everything is good, the passenger side is still working perfectly, so I need to determine what the problem would be, because I pulled out the bulb and it is completely in tact.
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I have a 06 passat and I installed a kit, and it keeps flickering, any reason why this would happen... My drls have been disabled, and i thought that should clear the problem.. it hasnt..
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Started right off in the morning, then parked it at the grocery store. Returned with groceries and car wouldn't start. Ran down battery trying. Called Tow Truck. Jumped, but no start still. Finally towed it home, recharged battery. Still no start. Gas tank 3/4 full. Then bought NAPA starting fluid, undid air cleaner intake area, sprayed 3 seconds (as directed), cranked, and car started. But died after spray no longer around. So, it seems to be a fuel problem. Fuel pump fuse OK. Is it the fuel pump, filter, so on...
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I got a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 6 cylinder, 3.3L, at 110,000 miles and since I bought the car, I always had a vibration when the A/C is on. I can feel it in the front of the car somewhere where the pedals are. Ones I turn off the A/C I can feel how the vibration causing thing stops. Is it normal? Can it be one of the A/C motors?
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I have an 07 Sonata with the 4 cyl engine. Problem is the A/c only cools when car is moving. Took car to mechanic and was told Radiator fan bad, so I replaced and still have same problem. Fan still will not operate. Fuses checked and everything ok there. Found the Fan control module under left front headlight to be cracked and broke from wreck a couple of years ago so I ordered that and replaced it. Still the A/C only works while driving. Come to a stop and it starts blowing warm air.
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I had a new wheel mounted by my local Mavis. They said they were unable to save the sensor valve from the old rim and sold me a new sensor. I received the car with the (S) low pressure light lit, Mavis saying that the car would reset after a few miles and if it didn't to return. Well, that light went out but the "TPMS" light then lit up and would not go out. I returned several days later and they checked with their tool and confirmed that the sensor they just installed was defective. They then replaced the sensor now telling me that the new sensor worked, they checked it and "activated" it. However, the TPMS light was still lit. They now said it "should reset". It has not.
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I'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
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My 07 is making a clicking noise while pushing on the gas, in cruise mode and while idling but doesn't click when I take my foot off the gas. It sounds like cards in bicycle spokes.
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I have a 2007 Hyundia Sonata. Currently have a 7" after-market head unit, four after-market speakers and a sub that is currently not plugged in. I also put HIDs in the low beams. It has about 73,000 miles on it. I bought it when it had 36,000 about a year and a half ago.
The first time I noticed an issue was about 3-4 months ago. Both of my stock headlights went out at the same time. I checked all fuses, nothing blown. Odd right? I thought there might be something going on with the electric but I was like O.K. i guess i'll get new ones, i could use some brighter ones anyways. So I went with Sylvia SilverstarUltra's. These lasted 2-3 months before one went out. I didn't think at the time that this was connected to the previous problem because only one went out and I drive a LOT with my headlights on during the day and SilverStarUltras have a short life span. So I bought an HID kit off ebay (just the ballast and bulb, not really a 'kit'). I installed them on Jan 28th. Today, Feb. 25, they both went out. NOT COOL!
Electronics : Sometimes as I am driving the electronics in the car "de-surge" if you will. Another words, they seem as though they have less power, the interior lights dim, the fan for the heats slows. This happens only for a second and then returns to normal. It has happened a few time. I don't remember the stereo being effected however.
Sub : The sub on my speaker system. A couple of months or so ago I noticed that my sub on my speaker system had stopped working. It was installed late last summer. I investigated and found no potential short, the ground was secure, and no fuses were blown. I didn't even think this could be related to everything else until today, but it kinda seems like it might be.
I was wondering if maybe I had created a short of some type when installing the stereo system. However nothing in the stereo system seems to be effect besides the sub. Which gets it's power directly from the battery, not the stereo system.
I read on another thread about a older Elantra that had this problem and someone mentioned that it could be the regulator in the alternator going bad and intermittently outputting too much voltage. Although I don't know why that would make the fan and lights in the car slow/dim. I'm currently trying to find someone who can lend me a voltmeter.
How I could locate an electrical problem with my stereo install, or elsewhere in my car?
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My car is a 2007 Sonata SE V6, first off looking for good suspension kits that will lower my car (just a little), and mainly stiffen my ride up ALOT because it's way too soft. OK to my point, this car sat for awhile maybe 4 or 5 months well my dad gave it to me and once I started driving it I've noticed that the front end on both sides clacks like crazy hitting bumps, it really sounds like when a car bottoms out, I'm not the best with suspension parts, to me it seems like busted shocks, is there a way I can test different parts of my front suspension to diagnose it?
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2011 GLS 2.4L auto 50K
After many months of trouble free driving, the vehicle has stalled twice at low speed while making a sharp turn. Once turning right, once turning left. Once it was warmed up, and once it was cold. Starts right up again. The vehicle has had all current recalls/tsbs to date including the various steering items except the most recent EPS 143 notice that has no remedy yet.
I will be test driving it myself to see if I can replicate the issue. I am not seeing anything specific on the forums other than maybe the TPS.
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Got a "wheel bearing noise" emitting from my 2007 Sonata with a 5spd manual. I've replaced front and back wheel bearings with no noticeable change in the noise. I then rotated the tires with same result ...no noise difference. Lastly after much reading I was convinced one or both of my cv axles were at fault so I replaced both of them and unfortunately the moaning roaring noise is still very much there. The only thing I can think of at this point is that one or both of the transmission's CV support bearing is bad. I've depended on this car for a long time and it has given me great service but with 170K miles on the clock I'm afraid the tranny is going to give out and strand me in possibly a unsavory part of town..
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So, I was getting this thumping noise in the front end (predominately on the driver's side) whenever I went over bumps. The car was at the dealership for something else and I asked them to check it out. With 145k miles I thought that it was the struts, but they said the struts were fine. They said the Upper control arms needed to be replaced along with the stabilizer bar links and the lower ball joint on the passenger side. Ok. Not a problem. I got the parts from Rock Auto. I replaced all the parts this past weekend and I'm still getting the thumping.
So, other than the lower control arms the only other two parts I can see that might cause that noise is either the outer tie rod ends or the struts. Anyone think it would be the tie rod ends over the struts? I can get a set of tie rod ends for $30 from Rock Auto. The struts are more expensive (I get the quick change struts with the coil and everything.)
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