2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
View 3 RepliesCheck engine light came on momentarily, car had poor acceleration. Light went out and ESC light came on. When the car was turned off and restarted, the ESC light went out.
I scanned the engine, no codes, either open, pending or historical.
Question, could the issues with the two lights be related? Or is there anything else I should check?
I just replaced the head on a 1997 Saturn SL2 due to it running rough and low compression on one of the cylinders. It idles very smooth now and has at least 160 PSI on all 4 pistons. The problem is that it surges as you are accelerating slowly, gets poor gas mileage and it seems that the oil level is raising on the dip stick. I'm guessing that gas is some how getting into the oil.
I checked the spark plugs for carbon build-up which would indicate a rich gas mixture but they're clean (lite tan color). I also replace some of the vacuum lines where I found cracks, but I may have missed a few. Overall the car seems to run pretty good. The problem is that this is my daughter's car who lives 10 hours drive away and I don't want to stick her with any problems. I don't want to take it to a dealership where they'll charge me a lot of money but my mechanic that I normally deal with doesn't know what to do with it since there aren't any fault codes on the computer.
I bought a used 2008 Sonata GLS with 65K miles 2 years ago. It's been a great car so far. For the first 25K miles that I drove it, it had good pickup and got ~30 MPG for my highway driving. In the last ~5K miles, the fuel mileage has dropped to 25MPG highway and it has some hesitation when accelerating, especially on lower RPM's. I changed the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, but it is still having the issue. What to check?
Some possibilities: ignition coils, sensors, timing belt, etc?
I have a 2007 3.3L Sonata.
The car has been sitting for around 8 hours. Wh en I start it, the idle moves up and down about 100rmps. When I drive off there is a slight hesitation until I have driven for about 10-15 minutes. The idle is nice and steady after the too.
If I use a fuel system cleaner, it appears the car is fine for awhile and then the issue comes back.
I have a 07 Ford F150, 4.2 liter V-6, that the city gas mileage has fallen from 17 to 12.5, highway from 22 to 16.5, in that last year or so. Two garages have ran a test on the computer and can find nothing wrong.
View 5 RepliesMy 2010 Prius since new, during cold Central IL weather, when I pull out onto the city street, it accelerates VERY SLOWLY no matter how I work the accelerator for 1-2 blocks. Then it takes off normally. When I forget to allow the extra time, it can be scary to have a car coming up fast and not be able to accelerate. I have left it at the dealership for 3 overnights now over 3 years. They went from "couldn't duplicate" to "there is a slight hesitation" that they attribute to normal shift from electric to gasoline. The next morning it took 2 blocks before it kicked in. My gas mileage has only been 35 this winter; I don't believe it has ever been consistently that low.
View 2 RepliesMy son has a 2007 sonata v6, daughter has one too. Both have about 130K miles, and both developed slow coolant drip leaks. I took off both hoses on both cars, cleaned the crud from the housings and replaced with new hoses and clamps. Problems solved in daughter's car, not so in sons car. I note that it looks like the area below the thermostat housing is wet - and thought that was from the crud/hose situation. But he is still losing coolant, even more now that its getting colder at night, and I's sure its not the hose connection anymore.
The car will generally NOT leak when hot, only as/when it cools off. I.e. puddle in the morning situation.
Looking at the diagrams, it looks like that "housing" is really a connection to the crossover pipe, heater hoses, other stuff (throttle body heat) and also contains what looks like a temp sensor.
I suppose any of these are possible, but my first thought was either a leaky temp sensor (or possibly loose) or something more serious like a cracked housing, leaking o-ring, gasket etc.
2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
2007 Sonata V6. He's spent many hours and a good chunk of change at the dealership trying to get it fixed and nothing has worked yet. They honestly have no clue whats wrong which kinda scares me.
First off here is his problem. Occasionally when he starts the car it will idle very rough and struggles to accelerate to 30-40mph. When this happens he pulls over and shuts the car off for a few minutes then it will run fine again. When all of this happens there is no CEL or any light at all that flashes or comes on the dash.
Here is a list of things that have been replaced
Fuel pump
Throttle position sensor
Crank sensor
Plugs, wires and coil pack
After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
View 8 RepliesI have a new (to me) 2007 3.3 Sonata w/ 64XXX miles on it. Recently it set off codes for P2A03 and PO154 indicating a problem with the front upstream o2 sensor. Before I replace the sensor I was wondering if these codes might have any other underlying cause.
Symptoms: The car has recently had one instance of pulsing acceleration and one incident where it didn't want to turn over but after an extended start finally started; this problem has not repeated. Otherwise the car has strong acceleration smooth idle and drives fine.
Also, I would like to know if o2 sensors are covered by mandated emission warranty or by Hyundai's 10y/100,000 warranty.
My wife and I just purchased a 2012 SEL front-wheel drive. Our first tank (mixed use) was 19 MPG. We took the vehicle on a roadtrip this weekend that was 95% highway driving on mostly flat Texas roads using cruise control as much as possible. Our best tank was 23.3 which was achieved driving 70-75 MPH on I-20. Is this consistent with what others are seeing? My mileage figures are at the link below. Note, all values are calculated by me, not the MFD that reads about 1 MPG high.
[URL]
Having O2 sensor bank 1 heater circuit short on a 03 BMW 325i. Changed O2 sensor, reprogram DME - no solution!
Symptoms: check engine light - code p2231 Engine surge upgrade Poor gas mileage
I have a 2011 honda accord with 15,000 miles on it that Has only gotten 20mpg since it was new. It is supposed to get 23mpg city and 34mpg highway. I figured I was the tires but since fixing the leaking valve stems it is still only 20mpg. I asked the dealer about it several times during oil changes after I first bought it and they claimed to look into it and find nothing wrong. Is there anything I can do to fix this or would it be covered under new yorks lemon laws?
View 19 RepliesMy 08 has been getting poor mileage for the past 3 weeks or so ..... I tried a "push the power button and trip reset shift to reverse to eliminate the backup beep" mod and it did not work. However I find now that I cannot get my MPG average above 42. When I tried the mod the odometer went immediately to all bars and then the bar indicators went out one by one until the regular odometer reading came on .... I'm wondering if doing that also set the car into another "mode" where the tranny will not shift to a higher gear???? So symptoms are constant engine running when cruising to a stop and after 20-30 seconds the motor will shut off .... and while driving on the highway the engine will pick up at least 1000 - 1500 rpms just by adjusting the accelerator a smudge .....
View 19 RepliesWhat these codes mean and what I need to do to fix this?
Codes:
P0141 o2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2
P0138 o2 sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2
P0036 H02S heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 2
I have a 2012 f150 stx 5.0 and I drive mostly city with a few highway miles. Why get this bad of gas mileage?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Alero w/ 2.4 103,000 miles auto. I have been trying to fix a problem for about 3 months. It all started one night when i got stuck in my backyard in about a foot if mud. I thought i could drive it out, but when the wheels would spin and traction control would limit the rpms. After getting out the car would skip every now and then going up an incline at highway speeds in 4th gear (drive) then it would skip while idling. I could get it to run smooth if i hit the pedal and made it shift to 3rd. I drive this car daily and the problem has got worse slowly. Now its hard to crank and when it does there is a small amount of white smoke with strong gas smell while the motor spudders for about 10 secs.
It will finally "clear" up and still misfire every few secs or just cut off. Gas mileage is terrible between 15-18mpg. The engine light and trac off light has only been on twice. Both times the code was for random misfire of multiple cylinders. I have put plugs, boots (wires), distributor, 2 fuel processor regulator, seafoam, all octanes of gas, pulled injectors (looked ok a little dirty but still could be one) and I have ordered ignition control module. Its getting hard to drive and even harder to sell. It has just started the white smoke and gas smell and i think its that's the pressure regulator, but the skipping and rough idle....
I have a 1998 Honda Accord, automatic with 179,000 miles. The malfunction indicator light came on so I had the car smoked and found that it needed a purge valve. I replaced the purge valve and smoked the car again which indicated the car still has a vapor leak and the malfunction light stayed on. The only place visible smoke is coming from is from the fuel filler neck (place where fuel or gas is put into the car) when the gas cap is off. Where the leak may be? My car is also getting horrible gas mileage. I was going to replace the fuel filter but I heard it was in the gas tank, is this right and is it replaceable? Would replacing the gas cap work for either the vapor leak or gas mileage?
View 8 Replies I recently bought a 1983 Ford Ranger Diesel pickup truck (2.2L Mazda engine, manual transmission). The dealer said to expect a little above 30 mpg on fuel mileage but the two fill-ups I've done show an average fuel mileage of 22 mpg. About half of these are highway miles.
I thought diesels are supposed to have good mileage. Is this typical for my year and model truck? Is there any way to increase the mileage? I just replaced the air and fuel filters and also changed the oil and oil filters.