Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Fuel Pump Won't Prime
Dec 3, 2016
I'm fixing a 2007 Sonata that was in a front end collision, I've replaced everything that was ruined in the wreck (as far as I know), and also replaced the SRS control module, impact sensors, and also the airbag. The car starts with starting fluid and there isn't any damage to the engine so I'm not concerned with something being wrong with that, but the fuel pump won't prime and before the wreck it drove fine. So what could impede the fuel pump from priming? I've checked the wires and they're not sending power to the fuel pump so I feel like the pump should still be fine, it's just it's not getting power. What could cause this?
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My R is garage kept, and every morning when I open the door, I can hear the fuel pump make a quick priming run. Well, not "every morning"; sometimes it doesn't do it's two second prime, and when that happens the car usually takes two cranks to start.
(I know that there is a timer. If you have been driving the car, shut the car off, close the door, and then open it, it is not going to prime, but I'm talking about after the car has been sitting all night.) This issue could be related to my door-lock-craziness issue.
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I dont know if this is an issue, but here goes. You know the fuel pump prime sound when you open the drivers door? The buzz? It has recently stopped. Should I be concerned? Is this a foreshadowing of hard times to come? Or am I just over analyzing?
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Instead of a normal humm I get a growling noise when I turn the key to prime the fuel pump.. I am think fuel pump issues.. but no sure if thats what it is??
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I have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.
I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.
I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.
The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.
So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.
I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.
I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?
Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.
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2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4cyl 135k miles...
Everything has been going fine. On Thursday I stopped at a gas station. Came out and the car won't start. Had it towed back to the house.
It cranks, but won't turn over.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Spark plugs were worn, so changed them, can't hurt.
They spark, although it looks like it may be weak.
After changing the spark plugs and trying to start it, pulled them and you can smell fuel, so it is getting into the engine.
Checked the connections of the wire harness (all I believe)
Anything specific to this model that would suddenly not run. I drove it 3 times that day, no problems starting, running, driving, anything. So I'm kind of stumped on the sudden development.
The check engine light had been on, but I did disconnect the battery when I was looking at something else before I checked the codes. So it isn't throwing any now.
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It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
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My car was performing poorly then Stalled while driving, no start since. Put starting fluid in open throttle body for 5 secs, then tried to crank.
fuel pump doesn't turn on (can hear it) for 2 seconds When the Ignition switch is in ON position, You can hear it when cranking in Run position though. So this makes me think that Its not building enough pressure
Pulled it out, hooked it up to a 12V batt and it works.
Someone else changed the spark plugs. Fuel comes of of the line just before the fuel rail. Doesn't squirt like there's a lot of pressure.
Pulled the injectors clean them put them back in with new O rings. Fuel only came out of 2 injectors when cranking.
Pulled the spark plugs check for spark while cranking. They all spark. Put new ones in.
Pump does send fuel when cranking which means the pump, and pump relay should be working I assume.
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I'm having a situation here. Yesterday I decided to clean the MAF in my 01 VW Jetta 2.0, so without disconnecting the battery I unplugged and took the MAF sensor out and sprayed it using "CRC MAF sensor cleaner", let it dry for about 30 to 40 minutes and then re installed it. When I tried to start the car, I opened the ignition (ON position) and didn't hear the pump priming, still tried to start the car, it when on for about 2 seconds at rough-800rpm idle then rpms dropped and car stopped running. Then, I tried to started it again a couple of times more and I still don't hear the fuel pump priming and the car will crank but not start.
Did I ruin/blew the fuel pump or something in the system? I don't understand what could have possibly gone wrong. I already tried searching for it but did't find the exact same situation and though details might be important.
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So after pulling her apart again to clean up the bay, she finally decided she didnt want to start:
- Ignition works
- Cranks for days
- Fuses look good
I noticed my fuel prime doesn't go on when I open the door and the secondary water pump isnt on after I turn the key off. I have an inline fuel pump, so wouldnt that supply fuel if the in-tank one was dead?
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fuel filter looses prime on 03 duramax when sits on hill. runs fine after i
manually reprime it. starts fine on level ground.
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My 2015 Sonata SE fuel pump failed at 29,000 miles, I was stranded on busy highway. No warning light or anything, it just died going 65MPH! Hyundai fixed it & paid for towing (but not the cab ride to get home after leaving it at dealership on Sunday night.
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with ~65k miles. I have an intermittent problem with the cranking, but will not start. It sounds like the fuel pump is "whirring" before start, and this only happens once a week or so. Other times, the car starts fine. The gas tank is ~1/4 full also.
There has been another intermittent issue (not sure if it's related) - with the O2 sensor heating coil. The check engine light comes on for a day or two and goes away wit the O2 heater coil problem. However, I'm not sure a sensor coil problem would cause the car to not start when it's cranking.
Could it be the crank sensor issue? Is that issue known to be sporadic?
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I have a gas leak at the connection of the High Pressure Fuel Pump and high pressure fuel pipe. Gas drips and sprays out from the nut area (see pic). The car take a several seconds to turn over to start.
What is the most likely cause? The car is out of warranty, so trying to repair myself without having to replace any expensive parts unnecessarily.
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My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
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I have recently noticed a pool of oil after I park my LS460. I've been told fuel pump could cause this oil leak.
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My wife's 08 santa fe had its fuel pump replaced 2 weeks ago and has been smelling like gas ever since. I thought this would go away but it hasn't. Should I demand it be towed back to the dealer tomorrow?
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About two weeks ago my wife's 2006 Pontiac Torrent's fuel pump went out. We had it replaced (costly repair) and two weeks later the car doesn't start again. Cranks but does not turn over/ turn on, which is exactly what it was doing before we changed the fuel pump.
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I have a Kia Optima, 2007. I've had the car since 2009 and about a year after having it, started having trouble filling the gas tank. I do NOT top off. However, if I allow the tank to fill until the pump shuts off, more often than not, gas comes overflowing back out of the car. Not only is it an environmental concern, but it's also a waste of money because I've now paid for the gas that's pooling on the ground. The amount that comes out varies, but is typically at least a few cups worth. This has happened to my husband as well when he has filled my tank. Neither of us top off. I've brought it to the dealership multiple times and they can find nothing wrong. Someone suggested it was more an issue with the gas pumps not shutting off when they're supposed to, but this happens at varies stations. Plus, no one else I know has this issue, so I can't imagine how this is a gas station issue. The car was rear-ended 6 months after I got the car and the side with the gas tank was pushed into another car, but the damage was minimal (the point of impact was the opposite side). Again, we do NOT top off.
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I had an oil pump failure in 1 2.4 L Sonata, 2006. I am ready to install the new oil pump balance shaft unit but cannot find where the timing marks on the pump pulley and crank should be? The service manual I bought simply says the correct position is critical. Any position or a simple diagram or link? It is a chain drive pump.
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I am trying to replace a water pump on a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, 3.3L, V6. But I hit a snag. I have removed the drivebelt but I can't get the water pump pulley off due to clearance. The water pump pulley is hitting the engine mounting bracket. All the manuals said I could remove the water pump pulley and the water pump and made no mention of removing the engine mounting brackets. I was wondering if there was a way to remove the water pump pulley, and the water pump, without dropping the engine and removing the engine mounts? If I do have to remove the engine mounts, do I need to remove the mounting brackets on both sides?
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