Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Flat Spot At 1400 RPM
Jul 1, 2015
I have a 07 Sonata 2l crtd, Its been running fine for about 6 years, But for the last couple of months, when setting off gently, as it reaches approx 1400rpm, I get a blip/hiccup/flat spot/miss. It ONLY happens at 1400rpm, and irrespective of what speed I am doing.
For example, as above, (setting off) but also, if cruising gently at approx 50mph ( which equals approx 1400rpm) then it does it again. It only does it at 1400rpm.
Also (maybe related) the orange engine warning light has now come on ( twice in past 2 weeks ) it stays on for a day or so,,,then goes out. its not flashing.
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I have a 3.3L 2007 Sonata. Within the past month, after first turning it on in the morning, the RPMs shoot up to about 1400 and slowly come down to normal after about 5 minutes. It does this in park and neutral, when I put it into drive it goes down to normal. If I drive it for a mile and put it back into park and neutral, it idles at a normal RPM. If I turn the car off for ten minutes and start it up again, it idles normal at about ~850 RPMs.
After doing a bit of google research, a lot of sites say that this is a normal thing for a cold engine to do. However, the RPMs have never gone that high previously. The check engine light hasn't come on.
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I have noticed several times when leaving my driveway (backing out OR driving out) that it feels like I have a flat spot in my passenger front tire. The first couple times I pulled over to check the tire pressure to make sure it was ok, and it was. It doesn't happen every day, but I have noticed it 4-5 times in the last 5-6 weeks. I was talking to a guy from work and he has the same issue.
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I had these things wrong in the first 12 months
Tire shake: took 4 trips to find one bad tire. Replaced 1 tire
Squeaky front end: 2 trips to find front coil rubbing on the frame due to bad mount or something. Fixed under recall
Squeaky front end part 2: bad upper strut mount bushing. I won't even count the dealership nicking my hood and it has to be repainted.
I have never had a perfectly smooth riding car. Frankly, the loaners drive better. I documented this with the dealer I bought the car from and then with VWoA a month ago. I told them the front tires are shaking again and need a balance. I even had the front tires balanced at an Indy shop. Before my 1100 vacation. Now it needs balancing again. The back has always had a slight bumping
Now at the 10k service, I get a free alignment check and find my car is moderately out if alignment.
I originally mentioned it to my purchase dealer asking if it needed the alignment after all suspension work. They said it was not needed. EVIDENTALLY IT WAS.
So now I have a tire with a flat spot which they should have replaced when I had one replaced. Evidently, this car says before I leased it. I used my free alignment I had with my extended warranty which I should have been able to save for down the road AND I still need a tire balance.
I told VWoA a month ago I shouldn't have to pay for a balance if it kept going out of balance. Obviously, something was causing the tires to be out if balance. It was pretty far out on the front left. Camber was out .58 and the toe .02.
I am highly annoyed. Norm reeves never put the effort in to make it smooth.
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About 3 weeks into the new 13 Elantra. Liking it pretty good. I seem to be hearing a noise of some sort. Almost sounds like a flat spot on a tire. Seems to be more rapid the faster I go and more or less noticeable on different types of asphalt. Didn't really notice it at first. The only thing I did was let some air out of the tires. They had almost 40 psi when I got it. They call for 32.
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I have annoying problem with the car feeling flat while driving it braking into a corner then coming out of the corner I feel I get no response from the pedal unless I push it down further. While pushing down a little further it roars out of the corner. I have noticed it more now because of the icy roads when I have traction control turned off. Push pedal down slightly with no response, then push 1mm further and the tires spin slowly.
I performed my own test in neutral of the auto transmission. While idling at usual idle speed, push pedal slowly and stop, kept doing this a little further each time to see what the rpm was reading. Finally it went from Idle speed under 1000 rpm and shot up to over 3000 rpm? I tried this dozens of times and could not rev the engine to anything between idle speed and roughly 3 grand. Took to dealer "no codes" I believe this will affect fuel consumption.
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I have a 4160 on a 351 Ford. I confess, it's a boat!
I had a major flat spot when accelerating off idle. I found it wasn't pumping on the accelerator circuit.
I replaced the accelerator diaphragm and cleaned the squirts and the passages. It squirts great now, but if I floor it, it completely bogs. If I baby it really carefully, once the engine gets over about 1800 rpms, it acts fine.
I thought it over, checked the travel on the arm that presses the diaphragm, and figured my pump cam was worn. It "seemed" like the duration of the squirt was not long enough.
I got a new cam kit. The orange cam on my carb was not a bit worn compared to the cam in the kit. Not encouraging. I put the only other cam in the kit that I thought might work. It was blue, and it gave more lift but no greater duration. It did not make any difference that I can tell. Is there a transition circuit I might have problem with? I don't know enough to go any further.
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When I first got my car it had a flat spot while driving hard at higher rpms. Almost as if something were actually holding the car back, it would pull nice up to that spot and then just almost die off. I eventually got unitronic flash and it seemed better but it was still doing it. Later companies started coming out with dsg flashes and this seemed to be the remedy but I now have hpa dsg flash and it still does it from time to to time. Could this be a faulty coilpack, or an issue with the intake manifold valve that changes over at higher rpms?
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I noticed a rust spot near my passenger rear wheel well. Not really sure how I got the damage or where it came from. I don't walk to that side of the car as often so I'm not sure how long it's been there. I can't feel on the other side as there is another panel on the other side so I don't know if it is rusted all the way inside.
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I've been hearing a popping noise occasional when reversing into a parking spot for about a year no, its like 3-8 pops each time. I looked at the CV joints and the rubber hosing is intact. I am pretty sure this particular noise now is not ball joints squeaking.
How long can I let this slide without replacing. Is the CV joint sold as one whole piece?
BTW I'm checking out the 2013 Sante-Fe....
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My 2.0 recently had some problems with the coil pack so I replaced it. Now my car hits a "flat spot" when accelerating around 2000 RPM and then another around 2600 RPM. If I am in 3rd gear going about 20MPH and I press the gas about 25-30% it sort of shakes and won't accelerate and when I take my foot off the gas and slowly ease the pedal down it accelerates fine.
My car also runs pretty rough at a cold idle(misfires). When I press the gas it sounds smooth until it gets back to idle. At any temp my car runs really rough with the A/C on. I also hear a rattle/Buzz around my relay panel when the A/C is on. My car is a 1999 2.0 AEG. I don't have VAG-COM just a generic scanner and the last codes I got were:
P0134
P0135
P0141
I replaced both O2 sensors and the beginning of this year and those codes came back right after I did them. I will scan tomorrow and post any new codes.
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2003 7.3 Sd Has a flat spot from 2700 - 3000rpm especially when it changes down, say going up a hill , if I decelerate and let it change back up it will pull again but if I leave it changed down it will not rev anymore. No CEL , put it on the scanner , only code that came up is " intake temp Low " which would not effect it. Have just installed new up pipes , new HPOP hoses , in the past it has had a new IPR and HPOP . It had this flat spot before and it would bring up low boost pres hence the up pipes . Have checked all flanges and intercooler boots etc.
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My daughters 2010 Sonata has a occasional problem that is very disturbing. When she is slowly pulling into a a parking spot or into her garage, the car will make a lurch forward. Just a quick acceleration and then back to normal. So far she hasn't damaged anything but its just a matter of time. She has taken it to a neighborhood independent garage.
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My 2009 Hyundai Accent 3-door GS (I believe) recently starting idling around 1,000-1,400 RPM. The car (since I bought it new) has always read "0" on the tachometer when I was stationary. Nothing has happened to suggest this problem would appear.
The engine isn't very loud to begin with, so I'm not absolutely positive that it isn't just an error with the tachometer, but I THINK that the car is actually idling higher than usual. The tachometer works fine otherwise, when I am driving.
What could be causing this and the corresponding fix? The car is under warranty, so I want to attack this issue as soon as possible.
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My 2006 Tundra with 45000 miles on it has an engine vibration in neutral between 1400 and 1750 RPMs. It does not feel or sound like a miss fire rather a definite vibration. I have heard this is common with Toyota 4.7 litre engines. What might be some things that could cause it? It has always done it and after 8 years hasn't resulted in any engine failures.....yet.
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This is kinda hard to describe but here it goes. I have a 2012 Turbo with 33K miles which I have owned since new.
Like I said, it is hard to explain but it seems like the steering wheel has a dead spot when driving. Feels like you have a magnet between the steering wheel and the column. As you are driving, it seems like you overcompensate trying to keep the car in a straight line. Asked the techs at the dealer twice already and they say this is normal for being electric.
Gotta tell you, on long rides feels like I just flew an old C-47 (DC-3) for ten hours straight!
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Had the first flat, and after it was fixed, screen warning and yellow TPMS light don't go away. Does it reset itself automatically after 'x' ignition cycles, or do we need one of those TPMS tools to reset it? No mention of this in the manual. Need to know before I blame Discount Tire for damaging the sensor. But since they don't charge to fix flats, don't know if I'd be able to get anything from them.
It's a 2011 Sonata Limited.
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I got my coilovers installed, love em....but now I have a clunking sound. Oddly enough it happens when I'm on flat pavement...not when I'm going over bumps.
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My car has been doing this more. When I turn into a parking spot or my works' parking garage my car front end makes a Metal Grinding noise But it does not make this noise when I am driving - turning corners. Car is a 2007 Toyota Corolla LE (I miss my Beetle). The Toyota service says brakes are fine and they see nothing. I am not the only one that hears it... My son has hard it and I have startled some pedestrians.
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Started right off in the morning, then parked it at the grocery store. Returned with groceries and car wouldn't start. Ran down battery trying. Called Tow Truck. Jumped, but no start still. Finally towed it home, recharged battery. Still no start. Gas tank 3/4 full. Then bought NAPA starting fluid, undid air cleaner intake area, sprayed 3 seconds (as directed), cranked, and car started. But died after spray no longer around. So, it seems to be a fuel problem. Fuel pump fuse OK. Is it the fuel pump, filter, so on...
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I got a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 6 cylinder, 3.3L, at 110,000 miles and since I bought the car, I always had a vibration when the A/C is on. I can feel it in the front of the car somewhere where the pedals are. Ones I turn off the A/C I can feel how the vibration causing thing stops. Is it normal? Can it be one of the A/C motors?
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