Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Engine Temperature Goes Up To Red Zone When Idling
May 30, 2013
I have purchased a 2007 Sonata GLS that was involved in a front-end collission. The car has been rebuilt with and now the engines heats with the temperature going up to the red zone when idling after approximately 40 minutes of driving or sitting for 20 minutes or so in very heavy traffic. It is completely fine when driving at about 20-30mph, and even if it came to the red zone and we start driving it, it cools down within a minute or so.
I have read other related threads and tried to read everything that google could find related to this issue. I don't see any blown fuses and or wires not connected / loose. My battery went out yesterday but it had 500 CCA (cold cranking amps when my car needed 600, it was replaced yesterday, just in case it works.
So from my investigation, the only thing I have no clue about is the small fuse box located in the engine compartment in front of the main fuse panel. I am including pictures of it. On the cover, it says that it needs two fuses, both 60A, one for AGCS (Active Geometry Controlled System, I believe) and the other one for COOLING.
So even the dealerships in the area don't know what the box is for or at least that's what they say. All I see inside in the box is two black thick wires and they are connected, not even sure what the fuses are for.
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When coming to a stop in my 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS with a 2.4 4 cyl engine all of a sudden you get something that acts like the car is jerking or surging or rough idling or something. Hard to tell exactly which but if I put it in neutral and rev the engine a little it smooths out. Only happens when coming to a stop. What caused it?
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I have a 3.3L 2007 Sonata. Within the past month, after first turning it on in the morning, the RPMs shoot up to about 1400 and slowly come down to normal after about 5 minutes. It does this in park and neutral, when I put it into drive it goes down to normal. If I drive it for a mile and put it back into park and neutral, it idles at a normal RPM. If I turn the car off for ten minutes and start it up again, it idles normal at about ~850 RPMs.
After doing a bit of google research, a lot of sites say that this is a normal thing for a cold engine to do. However, the RPMs have never gone that high previously. The check engine light hasn't come on.
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 127k miles on it and I'm trying to diagnose a problem, possibly with transmission.
Since I bought the car at 115k miles I started hearing a noise from engine zone, which appears quite rarely. Noise resembles valve knocking, appears mostly at traffic lights and colder weather (evenings). I was trying to catch the sound by recording it while using emergency brake at D pos. but the sound disappeared right after releasing brake pedal.
Describing in a different way it sounds like a propeller touching something with its blades. The sound also appears at 1900rpm on any gear (mostly when slightly releasing gas pedal around 2k rpm).
While trying to understand/fix the issue I used:
- liqui moly valve cleaner and engine flush
- techtron injection cleaner
- replaced spark plugs
These operations had almost 0 effect on car behavior. The symptoms boil down to a torque converter. Transmission shifts fine, I was going to try transmission fluid change ( a full change by dealer), however it may do more harm, so I'm not sure yet.
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Car: 2006 sonata GLS V6, 62,000 mi
Abstract of symptom: Delayed cooling fan kicking in
Full Symptom description: 2 weeks ago, I was stuck in slow-going traffic. All of the sudden, I found the engine temperature gauge was pointing at the redline, which had never happened before! Then I was about to make an emergency stop on the shoulder, the gauge was falling back to the midline within 30 seconds. As I kept driving in the traffic, the gauge just fluctuated between mid-high to redline. There was a moment I had to stop and shut the engine down, then 1 minute later I restarted the engine, the gauge turned normal again: a little bit under the midline. Then the traffic improved, and the gauge stayed calm all the way home.
Then I noticed that the overheat problem only happens on slow-going/stop traffic; in another word, when I am driving down the interstate @60 mph, engine temperature is always perfect. (a little bit under the midline) At the parking lot, I triggered the problem to re-occur by idling while I was watching the cooling fan--and I found the fan didn't kick in until gauge hit mid-high. After fan kicked in, the gauge fell back to midline, but seemed never to the perfect status. (a little bit under the midline).
Differential: Coolant quality and quantity are good; no visible leak on radiator/hose; when I started a cold engine in the morning and turned on A/C at the same time, the fan kicked in immediately. And it seems that keeping A/C on can prevent overheat from happening, even in slow-going traffic.
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I JUST got my brand new 2011 gti this wednesday, which I am obsessed with. When I was driving around earlier yesterday however, the temperature gauge started to go up and into the warning zone. a message on the dashboard then sed "check engine coolant see manual".
So i did, and according to the manual everything should be running perfectly fine. So i pulled over till the engine cooled down to normal, then after about a mile it happened again, and it kept overheating every mile. I got the car towed by vw to a dealership nearby, but they're closed on sundays so i have to wait till tomorrow.
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I was driving this morning after doing a brake job (nothing to do with the problem, just anger coming out) made it about 10 kms and noticed when i took my foot off the accelerator, the heater fan powered down a bit, and back up when I gave it gas...noticed a knocking sound from the engine...pulled into a gas station and put it in park. After a hard time idling, it cut out. I started it again and the idle was not good at all. kept cutting out. Got it going and made it home with the same sort of power issue. Tried to start it a couple times and same issue with the idle. Sputtering quite a bit and noticed quite a bit of exhaust coming out. When I backed it out of the garage, I noticed a small puddle of oil.
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My 09 Sonata LTD V6 was sometimes idling erratically (revving and slowing) after starting a cold engine. It never happened in the previous 3 winters I have owned it. I took it to the dealer for service and they said an ECM update was just released, described on the invoice as "TSB 10FL002 FOR COLD START ROUGH IDLE".
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I was driving and noticed that my temperature gauge went close to the warning zone so I blasted the heat and it went back down. When the car cooled I popped the hood and noticed that the coolant reservoir was pretty close to full but I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator. I filled the radiator with water for now but it looks like it gone again. I cannot spot any actual cracks or leaks on the hoses but I did spot a puddle of coolant in the groves on top of the transmission. The closest hose I can spot next to the puddle is the lower radiator hose but I really do not know too much about cars. I also noticed a hissing sound today coming from the radiator cap, which I am going to replace. Where the leak could be which is causing the puddle on top of the tranny?
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2005 Hyundai Tiburon Keeps Overheating
I live in Washington State and have a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon with less than 110,000 miles. I have had it for 5 years, and have not had any issues with the car until recently (last 2-3 months). My car overheated on me back in May while out running work related errands. I was able to leave it parked downtown while my husband took a break from his job to come pick me up. Since then, it has continued to overheat every time I drive it.
The temperature gauge climbs into, or dangerously close to, the “red Zone” within the first 10 minutes of driving. The first couple of times the car overheated, if I was using the air conditioner, it would start blowing hot air instead of cold air and the air would stay hot. Now when I drive the car with the air conditioner on and it over heats, it continues to blow cold air (if that matters at all).
My super handy husband (a certified motorcycle mechanic) has done the following in an attempt to fix the car:
•Checked coolant levels
•Topped off coolant
•Bled coolant system and added yet more coolant
•Replaced the thermostat
•Replaced the radiator cap
•Water pump was replaced November 2012 (not even a year old yet)
The radiator cap was the most recent fix. It was replaced on a Wednesday evening after testing it and finding that the existing one was not maintaining the proper PSI. The car drove great around town for two whole days without any issues (Thursday & Friday). Saturday, I decided to take it on a longer drive out of town to see if my good luck would hold…it didn’t. I drove a total of 30 miles round trip and my car started overheating after about 20. I limped back into town and barely made it back to our apartment.
My car continues to overheat!! What is going on?! So confused and frustrated I’m hesitant about taking it to a mechanic who, my husband is convinced, will just charge me to check all of the things he has already fixed.
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I have a 2007 GS 350 AWD and growing frustrated with some of its 'issues'. I have had the wheels replaced b/c they coating was 'bubbling' (the local dealer said this was normal...50,000 miles later this is happening again). At 60,000 miles to have frozen brake calipers replaced...never had this happen on any other vehicles, to include domestics with well over 100,000 miles, much less two of them freeze. A cracked exhaust, not to mentioned multiples recalls on a vehicle that has not even reached 75,000 miles. The engine has funny idling issues at low RPM's and the VSC and Check Engine lights came on list night but have since extinguished.
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I own a 07 Hyundai Sonata Limited with 31000 miles. It is 20 degrees today. When I start the car up there is this knocking sound from the engine. Once the car warms up the knocking sound only happens when the car is in drive or reverse. When the car is in park or neutral it is fairly quiet. The sounds is still there but not as loud as in drive or reverse. I have done the routine synthetic blend oil changes between 3500-4500 miles.
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I have had this issue on and off for a while. happened about 2 years ago just after i bought the car, and just started last week again.
The car will be running fine, then will start to buck while accelerating, shortly after the check engine light will start flashing and the car runs like it is on 1 cylinder. shut of and start again, light remains on( not flashing), car runs smoother, but does not accelerate like it should.
took it to autozone, they said it was giving the code for random mis-fire, and O2 sensor.
2 years ago the dealer said it was loose coils, and they fixed the problem, all the coils feel tight this time.
2007 Sonata ... 3.3 V6, 70k
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Any way, my 2007 Sonata with 57,000 miles just developed a whining noise on the right side of the engine compartment. It sounds like it is concurrent with RPM and I thought it might be the alternator, the drive belt or some pulley. I have even seen on the general internet that some others had a bad oil filter. To me, the noise seems to be coming from the alternator area. It is a relatively high pitched noise that almost sounds like an electric motor. Would love to get it fixed. I am nearing the 60,000 max on replacement from certain items and do not know if the alternator is covered.
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I got a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited (Platinum Edition), 6 cylinder, 3.3L at 110,000 miles. Got a Check Engine light a month ago, checked it at Autozone and it showed P0171 and P0174 codes (Fuel System Too Lean). The code was cleared and I drew the car for about a month, and the light came back on again recently. Checked it again and now it is showing PO133 code (slow response (heated oxygen sensor bank 1)). What could it be if not the O2 sensor or bad wiring or cracks/leaks in the exhaust?
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Sonata 2007 3.3L V6 ... I have nearly 70K on my Hyundai, and I am the original owner. Everything was fine until 24 hours ago until I got a knocking noise. I stopped, shut off the engine, and had it towed.
The mechanic says that based on the symptoms (knocking, some white smoke from exhaust) that it is powertrain warranty related, and I should be covered.
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I have an '07 Sonata and I just recently had an after market HID kit installed. My car has since periodically stalled and the check engine light came on. I ran the codes and they are P0698- Sensor C Reference Voltage CKT low, and P2110- Throttle Actuator Control System forced limited RPM. What does this mean and how can I fix it? I had a second battery installed so I know I have enough to power everything.
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I do not feel any difference in the transmission performance but the code has been cleared twice and keeps returning so the symptom is persistent. Can't find the 08 sub-code on the internet anywhere so guess I will have to visit the dealer.
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I have a 2007 Sonata, 2.4L 4cyl. and it is making some weird noise as of late. I have done some research and from what I have read it seems like it may be a bad engine mount. One thing to note is that the noise really only happens when the car is cold and hasn't warmed up yet or on a cold day.
Basically the best description is that the noise is a high-pitched rattle/vibration noise. The noise seems to match the vibrations of the engine but doesn't seem to get more intense if I rev the engine. The noise does get quieter if I put it in neutral but it is still there. The noise also happens even if the car is parked and off, and I do something like shut the door or trunk. I haven't gotten a chance to get in there and look under the hood myself to try...
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My 2006 Sonata has the 3.3L V6. It's been remarkably trouble free for over 201000 miles now, but has recently started having a "bucking" issue. It first it was pretty subtle. My wife noticed it too, and we thought maybe we were causing it. It progressively got stronger, and I started noticing some noise when idling with the window down. Also the check engine light started coming on. I took it to the dealer. They said the cam position sensor was bad. The noise was caused by something else, which they fixed.
To make a long story short, the car is now back at the dealership for the third time in the last few weeks. It will run great for a while, then suddenly start "bucking". The other day it died on me in heavy traffic. Fortunately I was close to the dealership so I took it back over there (second time). I got it back Monday of this week. It ran great on the drive home. Tuesday morning the bucking started before I could even get out of the driveway, so I drove my truck to work. Today (Wednesday) I drove it back to the shop. It ran fine the entire way. Check engine light is back on.
I have really enjoyed this car. Had it for about 8 years now. Full Synthetic oil every 5000 miles and a filter. I had really hoped to turn over 300,000 with it.
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I have been experiencing a slight issue with my 07 Sonata V6 lately. When I am accelerating, most commonly when already at speed around 80 to 90 km/h, I would hear this 2-3 ticks / clicks when I press lightly or moderately on the accelerator pedal. The car would accelerate fine without any further noises. When I release the pedal, the car slows down a bit, and I press on the pedal again, then the same sound re-appears.
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