Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Code P0011 And Clicking Noise Associated With Reducing Throttle
Apr 1, 2013
I have already concluded I need to replace my OCV on my 2007 2.4L GLS Sonata.
I have also been starting to hear a clicking noise associated with reducing throttle when in the 2500-3100 rpm range. It seems to only make this quiet clicking noise when the throttle is reducing and within the RPM range from above.
I am just wondering if this may be associated with the OCV needing to be replaced. I suppose I will find out for sure when I do finally get around to replacing the OCV sometime this month.
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I have a 2007 GLS. Within the past year I had about 4 or 5 difficult starts. Just recently I got a CEL with cod P0011. I replaced the OCV as that is the usual culprit. Within 6 miles of clearing the CEL, I am still getting the same CEL. I am wondering if the problem is either the wiring harness or the Camshaft Position Sensor.
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I have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
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My check engine light came on the other day, and I went to Autozone to have the code read. Of course, that indicated the camshaft position sensor was detecting a fault. I read through all the posts relating to the fault, headed up to my local Hyundai dealer, and picked up the oil flow control valve for about $50 plus tax. While I was there, I figured I might as well have them do an oil change, since it was way past due. No point in putting in a new part with dirty oil..right? They did the oil change, washed the car and I was ready to roll. My plan was to replace the part myself, but magically, the check engine light has not come back on since.
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I recently bought a 08 Sonata V6, with 94K mileage. The oil pressure light comes on when the engine is idle (around 700-800 rpm). The seller told me that this problem started a few months ago, but the car has not been used much since then. He also said that he has changed the oil after that, but the problem still persists.
The engine light has shown up more recently, like in a week or two. I took the car to a mechanic and he could not guess what the problem might be. But he gave me the error codes: P0011, and P0051. There are no other obvious symptoms (e.g. oil leakage, low oil level, unusual sound from the engine).
I could not find any thread regarding both of these issues (Oil Pressure, and the error codes) together. Any connection between these two?
So far, I have realized that the oil pressure can be due to a bad sensor, and P0011 has something to do with CVVT, and Oil Control Valve (OCV). But I would like to make sure I don't just waste money by replacing the sensor and OCV.
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I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
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Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
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My 07 is making a clicking noise while pushing on the gas, in cruise mode and while idling but doesn't click when I take my foot off the gas. It sounds like cards in bicycle spokes.
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I now have a p0011 code on my 2001 passat 1.8t aug. this is a thinker because right before the test drive around the block i did the following
- coolant flush
-replaced the fuel filter
-cleaned the knn air filter
-rotated the tires
-oil change with new castrol 5w-40 syn. and 1/2 a bottle of lucas syn oil stabilizer.
With a few phone calls a possible cause is the timing chain skipped a tooth cause of the lucas being to thick, other cause could be the tensioner finally went out?
Right know the car car has a rough idle and seems to be finding idle , and a noise from the engine around 4000 rpm.
I am waiting for the engine to cool off before i open her up to check timing.. if the chain is off a a tooth what could be the cause?
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I have a 07 Sonata V6 that misses only when warmed up, runs fine when cold. code p0301 for cylinder one misfire, I have replaced the plug, coil and injector for cylinder one and still the same. idles and runs perfect when cold, dead miss on number one cylinder when warmed up.
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09 i4 AUTO 47K miles ... When the car is running at around 50mph and if I give it very slight throttle (enough only to keep speed constant), I would hear this rhythmic humming noise. The hum rhythm has a frequency of about 1/2 second each. It is very muffled, almost like exhaust noise or tire noise. However, if I downshift to 4th gear, keep the same speed, and apply the throttle in the same way, the noise doesn't occur.
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Just wondering what would cause a clicking type of noise while make a turn? I drive a 06 Sonata GLS.
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I bought a second hand Sonata NF 2006. Excellent car. At the beginning to me was hard to tell if the car were running or started because of the silence and non-vibration at all.
but, recently I think that I can hear a little click click noise, no the normal one, another and some vibration on the steering wheel that wasn't there before.
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I have this noise that is cumming from under the car about dead center Engine area its only heard while driving and more as the car has been driven for some time. From speeds 20mph and above only when increasing speed or when full throttle. It wont do it in park or revving it i jack up the car front end and put in drive only front right tire turns but still no noise(is there away for the left tire to turn). Everthing works normal the noise is low and at times only.
2.4L Sonata 68000+miles.
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My car engine is G4KD 2.0 L 2009, no shift interlocking mechanism installed (I don't have the small button near the gear box to release it) also I am able to shift from P to anything else while the car not turned on, and I can shift without the brake.
2 weeks ago, I started to hear click noise (I am not sure if it was there before, maybe it got louder) when I switch from P to R, and from N to D, my car is on 80000 Km and didn't replace the gear box oil (dealer said oil is fine).
Car run smoothly but I am curious why I have this click.
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When I am driving and the sun is hitting the top of the dashboard, I get a reflection of the dashboard in my windshield. I have the gray interior, so it isn't terribly distracting. However, it would be really nice to tone it down some. The interior of my new Sonata is nice and I don't want something tacky. I have done some looking at dash mats on the web but I don't know how well they fit, how well they work, and if they would pass my tackiness test.
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I have a 2006 hyundai sonata 3.3L V6. Only happens on a cold start. I'll start the car and it won't tick while at idle. But as I drive away ill hear it for maybe about 2 mins only maybe in first gear until the car slightly warms up and then it's gone completely.
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I have clicking noise coming from the accessory drive on my 3.3L 06 sonata. It started off as a squeaky noise upon start up. I have since replaced the belt and the tensioner and now it is a clicking/ticking noise. It seems to be a lot worse when the car is just started and it slowly goes away upon warming up. In addition, when the car is cold the voltage light will turn on around sharp turns and steering will get hard (almost like something is putting drag on the belt). What it could be?
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When I accelerate from stop the left wheel it like makes a "clicking" noise as the car starts accelerating, once in motion there is no "clicking". What might cause it?
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I recently replaced my starter pin my Hyundai Sonata 06 v6 3.3 gls. Installing it was no real issue, but one (there is only one a single wire not the one that you fix on with a bolt and nut) of the electrical connectors from the car to the starter solenoid. The plastic around the conductor pretty much crumbled around my finger, what this connector is called specifically. Now the contacts will not contact properly so i suspect this the source of the rapid clicking issue, since my battery was fully charged. I plan to go to the junkyard too if i can find a replacement. Looking for specifics on the electrical connector?
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2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
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