Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Check Engine Light Flashing
May 23, 2011
I have had this issue on and off for a while. happened about 2 years ago just after i bought the car, and just started last week again.
The car will be running fine, then will start to buck while accelerating, shortly after the check engine light will start flashing and the car runs like it is on 1 cylinder. shut of and start again, light remains on( not flashing), car runs smoother, but does not accelerate like it should.
took it to autozone, they said it was giving the code for random mis-fire, and O2 sensor.
2 years ago the dealer said it was loose coils, and they fixed the problem, all the coils feel tight this time.
2007 Sonata ... 3.3 V6, 70k
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Earlier today i left my car idling for a couple of minutes and when i got back in and started to drive the car was vibrating, almost as if it was going to stall and the check engine light was flashing. drove a bit and stopped, started the car and now the check engine light stays on constantly. I have had the light come on (and remain on) a few times in the last while but it is usually solved by tightening the gas cap. it always seems to happen when i am low on gas (100 mile range-ish) Someone suggested maybe i had dirty gas in the car and needed stabilizer. My boyfriend said its a "misfire" and to change the spark plugs.
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My Sonata has 150k on it and the tensioners have gone bad 3 months now. This AM i got a flashing check eng. light and the car runs rough. Any relation or am I looking at plugs or coil issues?
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I know it is a random cylinder misfire code however I started my car in the morning and it was fine I moved it and put it back in my driveway. I started it up later and waited for it to heat up i came back outside 10 min later and my check engine light was flashing and my car was shaking like crazy you could tell the engine was misfiring like crazy. I had under a quarter of a tank but not empty yet. I shut it off and turned it back on and it was still doing it. I drove the mile to the gas station the way it was.
Under partial throttle it was revving to 4500 and over 5, had to let of throttle to make the car shift up a gear. I filled up and started the car again performed fine after that however the check engine light was solid now and still on. I went to my local mechanic and he read that code P0300. I changed my spark plugs that day and they were crap the original spark plugs I have 65,xxx on my car now. Car is smooth now. I cleared check engine when i saw him first and it did not come back on all day even before i changed the spark plugs later that night. Why my light was flashing and why my car was acting like that till i filled up?
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I got a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited (Platinum Edition), 6 cylinder, 3.3L at 110,000 miles. Got a Check Engine light a month ago, checked it at Autozone and it showed P0171 and P0174 codes (Fuel System Too Lean). The code was cleared and I drew the car for about a month, and the light came back on again recently. Checked it again and now it is showing PO133 code (slow response (heated oxygen sensor bank 1)). What could it be if not the O2 sensor or bad wiring or cracks/leaks in the exhaust?
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I have an '07 Sonata and I just recently had an after market HID kit installed. My car has since periodically stalled and the check engine light came on. I ran the codes and they are P0698- Sensor C Reference Voltage CKT low, and P2110- Throttle Actuator Control System forced limited RPM. What does this mean and how can I fix it? I had a second battery installed so I know I have enough to power everything.
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I do not feel any difference in the transmission performance but the code has been cleared twice and keeps returning so the symptom is persistent. Can't find the 08 sub-code on the internet anywhere so guess I will have to visit the dealer.
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I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe with 64341 miles on it. This past weekend we had it inspected at the dealer. Drove it home, in the rain/snow, and it sat in the drive way for a day while it was raining. This morning when I went to go to work, still raining, the check engine light came on and was flashing. Went to auto zone to get the check engine light code, the said that it was a P0303 which according to them was a misfire in cylinder 3. So I brought it to the dealer to leave it and have them check it out. On the way their the check engine light started to flash, when I walked in and told the service desk that they said that it was a catastrophic failure.
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As the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
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It happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
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Kia rio 2006 130461 today I went and got gas right when I pulled out light began to flash and car shaking went to auto zone codes p0302 and p0326. I had knock senor changed 2 months ago . What could be the problem the guy said I just need a tune up . Is this true ? Is my car safe to drive car not shaking now and no changes in function of my car. There no way I can any one to look at it for couple begin tomorrow sunday.
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I have a 2006 Sonata 6-cyl with 124K miles on it that also has an engine light that stays on but the car runs fine with the solid light. Only on a COLD start, usually first thing in the morning, is when the engine light starts to flash and the car runs very rough. When the engine light flashes and the car is shut off for about 5 seconds and immediately restarted,the engine light again stays solid and the car runs fine. I have had this issue for approx 2 years.
One mechanic says the code that always comes up is "P0306" (cyl 6 misfire) when the engine light stays on solid. When the light flashes and the computer is read,it gives EIGHT separate codes and all are cylinder misfires (P0300-multiple misfires and then P0301 thru P0306 for each cylinder misfire).
One dealer in the Phoenix,AZ area says my #6 cylinder valve is sticking and I need a full valve job because they supposedly did a compression test on all cylinders (which I doubt they did). I have spent upwards of $2000.00 already at both the dealer and 2 other mechanics to try and find the issue. I feel it is an electrical problem (sensor or computer itself) because one would think the car should run rough ALL the time if it was the actual valve sticking,but it runs fine when the engine light stays solid. I am running out of time because my emission test is due in 4 months. I do not trust this dealer to diagnose this issue; they have proven to me they are incompetent and just want me to pay through the nose for possible fixes until they finally just happen to stumble upon the correct problem.
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I just bought a 2006 Subaru forester with 130K miles. Recently, the check engine light came and at the same time the cruise control started flashing. I brought it to the mechanic who said I had a bad catalytic converter. The car seems to be running just fine and now a day later the engine light is off.
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
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I unplugged the battery and left it over night. Started her up and there was no check engine light. I'm thinking it could be because of the CAI I have installed? Took it to autozone and he said it showing no codes.
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I just changed out the spark plugs in my 06 Sonata and now the check engine light is on. The car runs fine but I can't find out why the light is on. Is there some reset switch?
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Just went and got my check engine light looked at.
This is what code I'm getting P0174
It's also listing ignition misfire condition
Fuel injector problem
and engine mechanical condition.
I don't know if this is listing probable causes of the P0174 or if it's saying those are also problems.
First time dealing with autozone and there check engine light look up.
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My 06 Sonata 120k 3.3L Does not go into reverse. (automatic) Took it for a short (1/4 mile) ride. Shifted fine at first then check engine light came on and it seems to be stuck in 3rd? What this may be, I don't want to get ripped off on a repair I don't need.
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I recently installed HID lights in both the low beam and fog/driving lights on my 2008 Sonata Limited. I used relay wiring kits so the HID's pull power straight from the battery. When I turn on the HID's after starting the car, the engine stalls and throws a check engine light with codes P0698 & P2110. Took the car to the dealer and all they really did was verify the codes and clear them claiming it was fixed...NOT!!
If I restart the engine 2-3 times with the HID's off, the check engine light clears itself and if I rev the engine RPM's while turning on the HID's then it's no problem. The HID's otherwise work great..and again the only power they pull from the car's electrical wiring is the signal from the headlight switch wiring that trips the relay to turn the HID's on!! The HID relay wiring kits have inline 20amp fuses between the battery and relays and they are fine, so the HID's can't be pulling that much current.
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