Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - CEL / Sounds Like A Diesel And Loss Of Power
Sep 26, 2012
I have a 2007 Sonata GL. So tonight after work when getting into car to go home I noticed my CEL came on, also as I was driving at low speeds/rpm I noticed the car really sounded like it has a diesel engine in it. At higher speeds on the highway I noticed it has some loss of power and the diesel sound went away. CEL stayed on.
The CEL light I am pretty sure is the OCV which I havent replaced yet. So my question is: Can the OCV cause the car to sound like a diesel and have loss of power is that caused by something else?
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My daughter's 2007 Sonata 4 cyl (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just steers like an old classic without power steering - then can.
This is kind or a repeat post from another individual but he had a V6.
SBR711 recommended replacing the Harmonic balancer and I am inclined to do so but parts guy at Hyundai said that typically is not an issue in the 4 cyl model. So he does not keep item on hand.
Fluid is fine, clean and proper level. No screeching etc..
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well I don't exactly know if that's what I should call it... I was driving last night around 10 and I pushed the gas down 3/4 of the way or so to pass around this car but instead of downshifting and accelerating, it just revved up all the way, i kept hitting the gas and it was like revving it in neutral then it kicked back into gear... should i be concerned? It was fine the rest of the night but I wasn't driving it hard.
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What's going on with my sonata. Its an 06 GLS 4 cylinder, 168k miles. I've actually had the problem before, and it lasted maybe about a week or two before the car went back to normal by itself. But a couple days ago it has returned. The car barely goes! All it wants to do is rev and not go. Coming from a complete stop is the worse, as it takes me forever to get up there in speed. I already feel like a danger on the road by sometimes not being able to keep up with traffic. Once I get up there in speed I'm able to keep it at that. I thought it was maybe the spark plugs last time, so I changed them, but that didn't seem to be it. I know the car has electrical issues, now I'm just thinking its that since its done it before and went back to normal. I took a video to get a better idea of what its like. [URL] ....
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I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
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I have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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I've got about 80K miles on my '06 Sonata and the weather conditions were on the very wet side.
At first I thought I heard a squealing sound which I just credited to either a radio or windshield wiper sound while cruising through some twisty coastal roads. The rain was coming down pretty good and a small amount of standing water of already on the road.
As I continued my drive I began to notice an occasional loss of power steering for a split second through some turns accompanied by that same belt squealing sound. At the same time the battery light also came on for a split second which indicated to me possible engine failure for a split second. Even though it was for only a split second it really freaked me out to think I could end up crossing the center lane or over into the ditch. I then slowed my pace for the rest of the trip. When I stopped for gas I popped the hood and things appeared to be normal and with plenty of power steering fluid.
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0 Diesel with 125,000 miles.
1st issue....When accelerating the fan comes on and it sounds like a jet engine taking off. Let off and it goes away! It acts like it does when you're towing something and put it under a load but you're not towing anything?
2nd issue...when towing a month ago hit a hill and totally lost power it was down to 25-30 miles an hour with it floored. Tranny gauge got up to about 3/4 but never any further. Let off pedal to try and get new gear and did not work, was like it was in a limp mode but never threw the wrench up. Finally got to top of hill and she cruised down other side just fine. No loss of power tranny back to normal. Then towed over weekend on flat land and tranny gauge went almost to overheat. Didn't seem to have power issue.
Since 1st tow issue it had 8 new injectors installed but hasn't seemed to change much. Fan issue was there before injectors and new injectors only, worked only with the cutting out it would do when cold and when driving in overdrive. Computer issue? Relays?
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So over the last few months I have been having more and more idling and power loss issues with my 2006 V6. When idling she intermittently will try to stall and the rpms will drop below 500 and then spike back up. A large percentage of the time I hear a loud whining sound while driving down the road and I notice that turning off the air conditioner will remove the sound at times.
***what I have done so far**
Idler Pulley
Belt tensioner
sepentine belt
cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor
Had car reprogrammed
So I pulled the belt off and checked all the pulleys and did notice some grittiness in the AC pulley (inner) and was wondering if this might be the issue. Attached is a video I uploaded, Video .....
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My 2006 Sonata V6 (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just cant steer - then can. Did all required maint. until 60k then just oil changes by me. Have read other forums about fluid flush, but that was for noise and I don't have any noise. This has happened with and without the Electronic Stability Control turned on. Other than that, runs great. MPG is about 25 or so (wish was 30 or so).
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The diesel filter water level light came on today and I noticed a lack of power. I drained of the water which made no difference so I replaced the filter which still made no difference . The light is still on and the engine is powerless from 2000 rpm .
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Car has 133k miles...everything on it is pretty much new (mainly from previous owner). Everything in the fuel system and ignition is new. New sensors all over the place. New ECM. All fluids clean. Earlier today I charged my A/C, it went well (blows ice cold)...sat for a while idling, idled fine. Drove around with the a/c on and noticed the transmission was shifting odd. It would keep upshifting and downshifting I think between 3rd and 4th gear. Also starting doing this with the air off as well. After running a few more errands, the transmission seemed like it wouldn't shift as early as it did previously.
Upon coming home the last time, upon acceleration I began hearing a slapping/tapping sound and the car started losing power. If I took my foot off the gas the sound went away. Well it almost died on me making the last turn into my driveway and I parked it. Shut it off, checked everything over. Oil and trans fluid is good as well as everything else, it didn't overheat or anything. It seems to idle a bit low now, and if I gave it any throttle while parked the unfamiliar sound returned.
I asked the previous owner and he said he might have put the wrong transmission fluid in when he did the fluid/filter change months ago. He says he used DEX or the "multi vehicle import" fluid instead of the ATF +4 that it requires. Coincidentally enough, I had just purchased several quarts today to start running the possibly wrong fluid out to get the right stuff in. What else I should check, hoping the engine isn't toast. Here's a video of the sound, you can really hear it when I move my phone over the exhaust manifold heat shield : [URL] .....
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Today my recline and forward/backwards on my seat stopped working. At the same time the high mount brake light quit as well as the head lights. The CD changer acted like it was changing. After sitting in a dry garage (rain all day) for a hour the headlights would work. Oh, my left license light is out also.
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How do I diagnose if I have an upper control arm problem?? hmr 1979 did a great job of reporting in great detail with pics, on how to replace a control arm.
My car is making creaky, creaky, sounds when I hit a bump on the passenger front corner. I have been thinking that the "top hat" mount to the strut was bad, but now hmr 1979 has me thinking that my upper control arm has a bad bushing. My front struts are originals with 91K on the odo. However, the struts still seem to perform well. Is there any sure fire way to learn if I have a bad bushing on the upper control arm??
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The front passenger window on my 2007 Sonata has always been sluggish. Recently it broke (I heard something snap) when I tried to roll it down on a cold day. I decided I want to take a shot at fixing it myself before bringing it in to the mechanic. I've made some progress but I'm having trouble removing the inner door panel where the window regulator mechanism is.
The window can be pushed down or pulled up by hand fairly easily, but there's enough resistance (for now) to hold it in place and keep it from just dropping down into the door.
I removed the main door panel without any problems. The window regulator cables and mechanism are behind a second panel that I'm having trouble removing and I can see through the holes in the inner panel that the window is still attached to the two "lifters".
I haven't been able to find a lot of detailed instructions for this step. I've been following the steps outlined in some this youtube video [URL] ...., but there seems to be something I'm missing when I try to get the panel off.
I have freed the black adhesive around the edge of the panel, and I've removed all the main bolts on the inside of the door, the 3 bolts at the door latch, detached the inner door handle and removed the outer door handle, but I still can't get much movement in the panel to free it. I'm hesitant to tug or pry the panel too hard because I don't want to bend the metal at all and ruin the fit with the door.
Is there any trick to loosening the panel so that it comes out and I can get behind it? Do I need to slide or rotate it, or is it held by any clips similar to the ones that held the main door panel? Most of the resistance seems to be coming from the area to the right of the speaker (between the speaker and where the inside handle to close the door would be). I can try to provide more details if necessary.
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For the past few weeks I have had a bizarre issue with my 2010 Sonata GLS. If you unlock all doors (press the FOB unlock button twice), get in, close the door and then turn the key and attempt to start the car, all power is lost to the the interior and with no lights, radio etc. The car is literally dead and won't start. If I open the drivers side door and then close it again, all power comes back and I can start the car. All radio stored stations are lost, the clock is reset and usually the trip odometer is reset too. Other times, if I just press the FOB unlock once to unlock just the drivers side door, the issue does not apparently seem to happen. What the issue may be?
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Got a weird issue with my Hyundai Accent 2007 SE. Used my key fob to open the driver's door, no problem. Tried to start the car and the horn went beep-beep-beep in synch with the motor trying to start and then on the second attempt to start it, the engine would not turn over at all, nothing--just dead. A little while later my wife said she heard the car randomly going off, no pattern just beeping. She said she hit a couple of buttons on her fob and it stopped. I let the car sit for about an hour and then went out, unlocked the car driver's door with the key (not the fob), tried to start the car and there was no issue...it turned right over. What is going on?
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No complaints about the driveability of the truck, runs great, drives/stops straight, etc.
However, when driving really slow (<3 mph), and I put the window down it sounds like I can hear what sounds like stones in a hubcap. Sound seems like its coming from wheel area, not sure where. Not very loud, have to turn radio off, put window down to hear it.
Just had tires rotated about 1000mi ago at the dealership, they checked brake pad thickness(about 50% left).
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Today I was riding along and all of a sudden I noticed a loss of power. I look in the rear view mirror and get into the pedal and a lot of black smoke. When I get to where I'm going and stop I noticed the idol was a little loopy. I never saw a check engine light. I have the Edge insight. I had two codes. P1000 OBD System readiness test not complete. P2290 ICP TO LOW.
When I would reset the codes the P1000 came back instantly every time. I parked the truck for about an hour. When I started it back up everything was normal. The power was back and no smoke. This happened two more times throughout the day. I have heard people describe a sticking EGR Valve causing these symptoms. Is that where I should start looking or is the ICP the culprit or something else?
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