I don't remember pressing anything, but out of the blue my automatic lights aren't working anymore. The bright lights work and the fog lights work....but the headlights will not come on.
View 7 RepliesI have an '07 Hyundai Sonata (4 cylinder) with the sunroof and XM. Yesterday, someone nearly hit me with their car and told me that my brake lights stopped working. I went home and tested it out and it doesn't seem to work at all. (The third brake light died out a week ago). I checked fuses and they seemed to be okay, tried replacing them with spare ones and still doesn't work (My old rover always had fuse problems). Bulbs look fine and they're definitely not burned out.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata that has the digital display for the climate control- which i am assuming is the auto climate control system that is talked about on here frequently. The problem is that the fuse for the climate control system continually blows, causing the display and all controls for the climate control system, to stop working. Put a new fuse it, blows again.
View 1 RepliesAll of my interior lights went out. Except for dome lights etc. Here's a more detailed description. Every light effected by the dimmer on the left side near the ECS button don't work. I'm assuming it's a fuse.
Cluster gauges still work fine. The lights just don't work.
Note: Both headlights are out so I don't know if that could be connected in some way. Haven't been able to change them yet.
So, which fuse this would be? I can't seem to find it. Or if it could even be a fuse?
Tail and dash lights would go out unexpectedly, so I would turn light switch off and then back on and they would work. After about a week they stopped working all together...I checked all fuses related to the lights and dash as well as bulbs.
View 5 RepliesMy 2007 Hyundai Sonata lights won't turn off on auto or manually. Took it to the dealer and. they said.....
checked fuses okay has internal relay in IP Junction blocked checked power at Pin 7 and 8 RH and L/H Trail Lamp ASSY with Switch off voltage at 12V internal Failure in IP Junction Block. Recommend to replace.
The ambient temp gauge on my '07 Santa Fe stopped working, all I was getting was flashing bars across thee bottom. Someone in a thread said there was a TBS about that. I went to my Hyundai dlr and got a copy of the TSB. It was actually pretty easy to take everything apart. The problem was that there were no wires the color I was looking for, also, there were no wires connected to the terminal as shown in the TSB. I went back to my dealer, and after a little research, found that the TSB did not pertain to my car because it was a late model year production. I was told that to fix the problem on my car, all for the fuse blocks would have to be replaced. Shortly after that, I started getting erroneous readings, eg:126 degrees. Now it is reading correctly, but who knows for how long.
View 1 RepliesI have a 07 Sonata. The front passenger side power window is not working. How can I determine whether its the window motor or regulator?
View 1 RepliesI have read a few other posts in regards to this issue. My parking lights do not turn off when the car is shut off and lights are either manually turned off or if the auto function is used. I understand that it is the drivers side fuse box that has a relay built into it that controls the on/off function of the parking lights. I do not see anywhere that I can buy the fuse box. The local dealer wants me to pay for diagnostics before going any further.
View 1 RepliesI have 2007 Sonata GLS and have noticed on several (at least 6) occasions that the parking lights (front turn signal lamps and tail lights) as well as the instrument lights will stay on after turning off the car, removing key and locking it. Usually I flip the switch a few times and they'll go off and stay off. Today wasn't so easy. I'm guessing it's the switch but wanted to know if this is isolated case or more common before I take to Hyundai. The problem can't be "duplicated" when you want it to happen. Usually it's on colder mornings when coming to work.
View 18 RepliesI just purchased this really nice high milage '07 Sonata and am working on some "minor" issues:
The Driver's Door lock actuator is not working (all others are fine using the interior lock/unlock switch and the key when used in the driver's door lock).
I have researched the issue on this site and want to confirm what appears to be a nasty replacement scenario.
1st, can a new actuator be found for less than $70.00+-?
2nd, are the acuators specific for each door, left and right doors, or all interchangeable? I ask because I might go for a used one.
3rd, is the complete dismantleling of the door and window actually necessary? Seems unbelievable especially for such a common problem. But of course the engineers never expected it to be a "common" failure.
The front passenger window on my 2007 Sonata has always been sluggish. Recently it broke (I heard something snap) when I tried to roll it down on a cold day. I decided I want to take a shot at fixing it myself before bringing it in to the mechanic. I've made some progress but I'm having trouble removing the inner door panel where the window regulator mechanism is.
The window can be pushed down or pulled up by hand fairly easily, but there's enough resistance (for now) to hold it in place and keep it from just dropping down into the door.
I removed the main door panel without any problems. The window regulator cables and mechanism are behind a second panel that I'm having trouble removing and I can see through the holes in the inner panel that the window is still attached to the two "lifters".
I haven't been able to find a lot of detailed instructions for this step. I've been following the steps outlined in some this youtube video [URL] ...., but there seems to be something I'm missing when I try to get the panel off.
I have freed the black adhesive around the edge of the panel, and I've removed all the main bolts on the inside of the door, the 3 bolts at the door latch, detached the inner door handle and removed the outer door handle, but I still can't get much movement in the panel to free it. I'm hesitant to tug or pry the panel too hard because I don't want to bend the metal at all and ruin the fit with the door.
Is there any trick to loosening the panel so that it comes out and I can get behind it? Do I need to slide or rotate it, or is it held by any clips similar to the ones that held the main door panel? Most of the resistance seems to be coming from the area to the right of the speaker (between the speaker and where the inside handle to close the door would be). I can try to provide more details if necessary.
I disconnected the battery to clean the terminals and now the lights won't flash when I lock the doors with the remote. I guess I lost the programming, how do I change it back? I have a 2007 Sonata.
View 5 RepliesPossible to change the setting for the auto mode for the headlight to come on when it gets dark? I've always thought that they don't come on soon enough, particularly in heavy rain or towards sunset when I see many other cars with headlights on.
Couldn't find a section in the manual, but wondered if there was any undocumented tweak I could perform to get the lights to come on sooner so I can leave in in auto mode and not worry about it.
When in the Auto Light mode, my lights sometimes come on when it's daylight out. Other times they work properly and come on when it is dark.
View 5 Replies2007 Camry LE. I keep my headlights in the AUTO position and have had two instances recently where they did not come on, and it was plenty dark enough that they should have. I was able to turn them ON, then back to auto, and some sequence of that finally got them to come on while on AUTO, but it was a little scary. I had other drivers flashing their lights at me so I would turn mine on. I guess I'll have to check every time from now on.
View 12 Replies2006 Sonata. I had to remount the drivers window glass which had slipped out of the clamps and fell inside the door.
Afterwards, if using the window auto-up feature, the window reaches the top and reverse back down to about the one-third closed point. Using the normal (non-auto up) it remains properly closed at the top.
My first thought was it needed to be reset by the well documented hold the switch up for at least .2 seconds method. I've done that and it hasn't solved the issue.
There doesn't appear to be any unusual resistance to movement which might activate any 'arm in the window' type safety feature. (if it even exists)
I would also expect that type of thing to work regardless if using auto-up or not anyways.
Recently my 2006 2.4 L encounter auto transmission jerk intermittently with P0734 and P0765(bad D shifting solenoid. Change the bad solenoid and the problems still occur. Later check all the wiring as per hyundai TSB and all seems to be ok. Then an error code appear that indicate bad ATM relay (auto transmission module). I interchange the suspected relay with the horn relays and the problems resolved. I did check the relay coil which is ok but the mechanical contacts is badly corroded that results in some resistance that causes the 12v supply to the Solenoids to be affected. (the relay is situated in the relay compartment next to battery).
View 6 RepliesI have an 08 LS460 and set my lights to auto.
I have noticed recently, two times I have turned the car off and the lights stay on.
One time was in the garage and I never lock the doors while parking it in my garage.
They were on for 15 mins after I turned off the car.
Today my transmission suddenly disengaged while slowing down from 3rd to 2nd as if i switched to neutral.Car revved freely when i pressed accelerator. Then suddenly after a second it engaged again and shifted normally. Never had this issue before i racked up 1,29,000 KM on my ride.
I can't see it as "slipping" as there was no change in speed and it revved freely. Also I 'm due for fluid change. What can be the issue?
My Sonata has developed a hesitation when accelerating from a standstill. Sometimes the symptom is worse. I haven't identified any correlation of this symptom with any other scenarios.
Symptom : When at a stand-still, lightly pressing on the gas pedal doesn't result in corresponding slow acceleration, it is only after a certain threshold (of throttle application) has passed that power from the engine is transmitted to the wheels. When this occurs, the result is a jerky start.
In other words, trying to feather the gas pedal to allow a gradual and smooth acceleration from stand-still is not possible when this issue occurs.
I believe the 09' Sonata has a drive by wire throttle correct? If so, could this be a computer calibration issue?