Solara :: New Alternator And Battery Installed But Car Won't Start
Aug 9, 2013
Over last two years have replaced a few alternators and (3?) batteries in my 2000 Solara SLE with 150,000 miles. However, In last three months I have had three additional alternators. Car wouldn't start, had it towed, and a mechanic put in new alternator and battery. Happens again, car won't start (now own a jump charger!), and the same mechanic puts in new alternator. Happens again and Mechanic #1 says he has checked it and its fine. I then go to my regular mechanic... Says its the alternator which is bad (when you put the AC and Radio on, it appears to charge for a while, but if you leave it running it will stop charging and then after a while it will go to overcharging and undercharging. I noticed when driving on highway my lights will brighten and dim).
He sends me back to the first mechanic because the alternator is bad. They put in a new alternator. I take it back to Mechanic #2 my regular mechanic to test it so I don't get stuck. He says its still doing the same thing. I tell him I will pay to have him put in the new alternator and he can own the warranty.... He sends me to a car electrical specialist. After having my car for 3 days the car electrical specialist just called and said in 30 years he has never given up but he has now. May or may not be related: My check engine light was coming on and I had mechanic put in new oxygen sensors. I also have intermittant traction light and ABS light coming on and the check engine light will sometimes come on too. My dash board feels like Christmas...
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it. (none of the books covered this.
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it.
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I purchased a new 12 volt battery from Toyota and installed in my 2009 Prius. My car wouldn't start. So, next I tried to jumpstart it. I pressed the Power button (the light was GREEN) but it wouldn't start. I pressed the Power button again (The light was AMBER) and the hybrid drive engaged and the CHECK ENGINE light came on; however, the engine didn't start, the dashboard didn't light up and the READY indicator did not appear.
Next, I grabbed the Owner's Manual and went through the Troubleshooting sequence. Engine still wouldn't start.
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So my 2003 VW Passat will not start. I last drove it a few days ago, and it has been sitting inside a nice warm garage. The battery was replaced a few months ago. The car doesn't "turn over" but just has a steady sound when you try to start it. It's not a clicking sound like I had 6 months ago with it. I attached a link to the audio file of me trying to start it today. There are no warning lights per se coming on only the typical ones coming up when the ignition key is turned on. The lights and interior lamps come on indicating there seems to be power but nothing else. The plugs were cleaned a few months ago as well. Could it be alternator? I could try jumping it but the sound it makes leads me to believe there is plenty of juice.
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My wife's 2007 Buick Lucerne wouldn't start the other day after sitting maybe 20 minutes with the headlights on. She had to call AAA for a jump start. It starts fine now. I took it to an autoparts store, the battery shows 90% life left. Brought it home, charged in 10 minutes using my car charger. My question is, what could cause the car not to start so easily? I am skeptical the battery was the culprit. How can I check the alternator, etc? Any other thoughts?
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So 3 times in the last 2 days, my car has needed a jump start. Took it to pepboys and they told me to replace the battery, a new battery later, my car wouldn't start again and I needed to get it jump started again. Took it back to pepboys, they say everything checks out fine including the battery and the alternator and that it should work fine. This happens to be exactly what they said the last time.
The car is a 2012 Ford Mustang V6 convertible.
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I have a a 2003 or 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (can't remember which at the moment). For the past few months, it's been having the same problem. One morning, I'll go out to start the car and the radio will have stopped working, but everything else is fine. A few days later, however, the car won't start in the morning. I'll jump it off, and the car and radio will be fine again for a few weeks. This doesn't last for long though.
Eventually, the radio will go out, and a few days later the car won't start again. I took it to my local mechanic and they tested the alternator/battery/ starter and said they were all fine, and that the battery cables just needed to be cleaned. After the cleanup, the car and radio worked fine for a few weeks...but sure enough, a few days ago, the radio went out. This morning I had to jump my car off again. What the real problem is? I'm taking it to the shop again today, but what else it could be...
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Code P1166 showed up after I have new alternator installed from coolant leaking onto it. I dont think that is the cause though. In the fall I found some acorns in the air box and just recently in the heater fan. In December, after the acorns were found, the car had a low idle a seized alternator and a broken belt.
No acorns are in the air box anymore, or in the heater fan. Car has more of an erratic idle and stalls now that it is parked on an incline.
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I went to start my 2006 F350 6.0 this morning. 20 degrees outside. It nearly turned over, then it appeared that the batteries would not support another start - a slowing of the pre-engine start revving....
So I let it sit a while, now it won't start at all. When I try to start it, the dashboard flashes, clicking sounds occur and even after pulling out the keys, the needles on the gauges shake for a few seconds.
Is this more a battery issue or an alternator issue?
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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I drive my solara pretty infrequently, but even so I am surprised by the way the battery drains to completely dead if I don't drive the thing for a week. 1 year old battery, presumably good per the folks at Schucks and its place in the price range, but if I don't actively drive the car - dead. It seems like there must be a bunch of electrical drain even when turned off, Also, when jumping (which is far too common an event) it doesn't work well unless I put the negative cord on the negative terminal instead of grounding it on the chassis like I typically do.
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My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
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2002 Ford Focus SE with 130k miles on it. For the past 4 months the battery light flashes randomly while driving. The flashing and frequency of flashing doesn't seem related to anything I can tell including temperature, length of time the car is running, speed or any variable. Seems like it should be an alternator, but that was replaced less than an year ago and it also has a new battery. The alternator always checks out fine at the mechanic and it will never flash for the mechanic. It went 1 month with no flashing and suddenly it will now flash maybe 20 times in a 5 mile drive. Yesterday it just died at a stoplight with no warning, but then after shutting everything off it started just fine and the battery light didn't turn on for the 2 miles to home.
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My car battery was bad and took it to get it exchanged for a new one. Car was without the battery for probably around 6 hours. Came home and installed the new battery and car fired right up but I noticed that it idles at around 400-450 rpm. This is with the ac on or off. AC does not increase the RPM any. But I also noticed that at this RPM, the AC doesnt blow any cold air. As soon as I barely press the throttle and it gets to where it used to idle prior (600-700) the AC blows cold again. The car has never idled this low prior. I took the battery out for around 2 minutes and still the same thing. Ive also read about leaving it disconnected for 30-60 min and see if it works.
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After my mechanic installed a new battery my car radio doesn't work. It turns on and lights up but generally only produces static. Every now and then it tunes into a station, with much static, but generally not. The fuse is fine. The radio manufacturer, LG, says this radio has no code so that isn't the issue.
My car is a 1999 SEAT Arosa 1.4 6h with APQ motor. It's essentially a small version of the VW Golf.
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I have a 2006 solara 3.3L. I bought this car about 4 months ago and it was running fine. Couple weeks ago I try to start the car and it would crank but won't start. I checked the fuel rails it was getting but somehow not starting... What can be the problem?
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My '07 Solara w/40k miles has a burned out tail-light (LED). It had moisture built up in it and probably caused it. I opened the hood to check to see if any fuses might be involved (didn't remove any) and the car wouldn't start after that. It cranks nicely, but acts as if it isn't getting any fuel.
Previously this happened to me and it turned out to be the battery (even though it cranked well). So, I replaced the battery with the one from my other car - no go, so we've eliminated the battery.
Took my voltmeter and I have 12.6 or so at the battery. The tail-lights have around 11.91 volts. Pulled the fuel pump wiring and again, I have 11.91 volts. Hooked a 12v lamp to it and the lamp won't come on, which leads me to a short somewhere?? (I have unplugged the LED tail-light).
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I have a 97 Toyota Celica. Had a new battery installed and now the radio and clock do not work. Replaced the 15 fuse in the fuse area to the left of the steering wheel - which worked in the past - but this time, nothing. The cigarette lighter works, but no clock or radio.
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I replaced the battery because I was getting the red triangle with no screen powerup. This is a slight improvement but I'm stuck as to what the "Problem" indicator on the MFD is about.
I've checked the battery in maintenance mode, reading 12.6V.
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There is no electric power (no lights, no dash indicators, no starting, nada...) New battery just put in.
More background: old 'beater' hyundai, manual trans, not sure of year but older one (looks a lot like the picture for this forum). It was sitting in storage for over a year and was driven in to that slot. It belonged to my son's friend who just gave it to him. Was going to drive it away (tires, oil ok) but of course would not start. no lights will come on, interior or exterior. turning key in ignition to any position makes no difference - still no power to anything. Battery cables seem ok. Could find no blown fuses, either inside or under the hood.
So, what are we missing? What is the magical fix that will quickly get this thing on the road (we want to stop the storage fees too).
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