Solara :: Complete Battery Drain When Don't Drive For A Week
Dec 4, 2011
I drive my solara pretty infrequently, but even so I am surprised by the way the battery drains to completely dead if I don't drive the thing for a week. 1 year old battery, presumably good per the folks at Schucks and its place in the price range, but if I don't actively drive the car - dead. It seems like there must be a bunch of electrical drain even when turned off, Also, when jumping (which is far too common an event) it doesn't work well unless I put the negative cord on the negative terminal instead of grounding it on the chassis like I typically do.
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We have had a problem with our SC430 battery going dead if it sits more than a week. We have had this car for a number of years and I am tired of putting a trickle charger on it all the time to keep it from going dead!
I can not believe that Lexus does not know what the big drain is on this vehicle when it sits even for a small period of time....I went to a Lexus dealer several years ago to have a new timing belt/water pump put in it and asked how to keep my battery from going dead. They pointed over the parts counter to a motorcycle type battery charger as they answer!
A friend has a late model Mercedes hardtop convertible, they (Mercedes) solved the problem by putting two batteries in it. One is isolated for just cranking! So, before I start with a fully charged battery and pulling every fuse and disconnecting everything until I find it. What is the big battery eater?
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2006's battery will die after 1 week of non-use. It is a new battery. Does that sound normal?
The car does have the Toyota VIP alarm if that makes a difference.
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I am away for a week and a half, the Touareg is at LAX in a indoor parking garage (WallyPark) the whole time. When I come back, the battery is dead. What is the probability of this actually happening? I know that it is common on 04's but I don't know how 05's are.
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my 2005 V10 Ex is garage kept. I work at home and have a different daily driver so it usually goes out once a week.
At 40,000 miles and 10 years...it still has the original factory installed battery. I keep a tender on it if it's going to sit a while and so far everything has been OK.
At 10 years, should I replace the battery just to avoid a potential problem?
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I have a '96 4Runner (4WD V6 SR5) with 215k miles which had been running great until I parked it at work for a week & a half business trip and came back to a dead battery. I jump started it this morning and it ran fine until I disconnected the jumper cables, at which point it immediately started running rough (hesitating, almost dying) and the windshield wipers went to the high setting (they weren't on before) and all the lights on the instrument panel were on (check eng, etc.).
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My 2013 Sonic has died three times this week. After charging, the car runs fine, and will start up another 5-6 times with no problem. I can even turn the car off immediately after disconnecting jumper cables, and it will turn back on. I took it to Autozone to be tested yesterday, and my battery, alternator, and starter passed. (Alternator is only about 10/11 mos old. Battery and starter have never been replaced) When the battery is dead, I hear a rapid clicking sound, the interior lights are dim, and headlights wont work, Sometimes the dash lights come on, other times they don't.
Some other issues that have been going on which may or may not be related are, catalytic converter and fuel solenoid valve are faulty, and will be replaced this week. Also my car window will go down but will not come up, (no noise when attempting to roll up the window, so i don't think its off track) and the windshield wiper squirts the washer liquid under the hood, and not on the window. (Havent gotten to diagnose those issues yet).
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Over last two years have replaced a few alternators and (3?) batteries in my 2000 Solara SLE with 150,000 miles. However, In last three months I have had three additional alternators. Car wouldn't start, had it towed, and a mechanic put in new alternator and battery. Happens again, car won't start (now own a jump charger!), and the same mechanic puts in new alternator. Happens again and Mechanic #1 says he has checked it and its fine. I then go to my regular mechanic... Says its the alternator which is bad (when you put the AC and Radio on, it appears to charge for a while, but if you leave it running it will stop charging and then after a while it will go to overcharging and undercharging. I noticed when driving on highway my lights will brighten and dim).
He sends me back to the first mechanic because the alternator is bad. They put in a new alternator. I take it back to Mechanic #2 my regular mechanic to test it so I don't get stuck. He says its still doing the same thing. I tell him I will pay to have him put in the new alternator and he can own the warranty.... He sends me to a car electrical specialist. After having my car for 3 days the car electrical specialist just called and said in 30 years he has never given up but he has now. May or may not be related: My check engine light was coming on and I had mechanic put in new oxygen sensors. I also have intermittant traction light and ABS light coming on and the check engine light will sometimes come on too. My dash board feels like Christmas...
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So I've had my Prius C Two for about 2 months now. I was driving in a really crowded parking lot for so long that the battery drained and the car switched to gas mode from EV. We pulled up to the edge of the parking lot and had to wait a few minutes more. When I tried to proceed, the car had completely shut down (no power steering, A/C, etc.) The car was still in drive (had been the whole time) and we were rolling downhill. I had to stop completely, put it in park, and then turn the key again to restart it.
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So, after I lower with BC Coil-over and 20" wheels (Stagger). I feel my car vibrate at a complete stop and in Drive. But when I put in neutral it stop the vibrate. When I take off from a complete stop is fine no vibrate but when I let go of the gas and let it cruise, it vibrate....
AWD GS, after lowering and with stagger wheels but it seem like the driving vibrate after after I put these wheels on. I didn't notice when i have my stock wheels on. or was it just me and 1SLOGS? I did balance all 4 tires again, I have all the hub-centric rings on all 4 wheels too.
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My prius was reset due to HV battery being replaced, I need to pass the NY State inspection and for that I have to complete a Drive cycle.
I have followed the instructions in the service manual for Catalyst, O2 and Evap test. I put the car in inspection mode and idle for few min to warm up then drive it for 10-20 min while monitoring it with techstream the Catalyst and O2 showed Pass and Complete the Evap needed the car to cool down for 6 hours so did that but I am not sure if I am ready to go in or not.
The COMPLETE does not show any more for the catalyst or O2 even but it does say PASS for all 3 . What does this mean?
why does it say incomplete for the test that I already passed?
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2011, 2.0T, with 58,000 miles, and everything's perfect, nothing but synthetic oil changes and premium fuel. But, Over the last month, I get a new vibration when I come to a complete stop, and stay in Drive. Once I shift to Neutral, it naturally goes away, and it shifts normally. I've never done anything to the Tranny.
The car has always been like this but this new vibration is bad, I can feel the pulsing in the brake pedal and you can hear it in the engine. What's making me take it to the Dealer is when my wife drove it, she said she noticed it, I said it must be bad.
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On my last few charge cycles, the PiP's battery has not been charging completely. Even when I get the "charge complete" message, the top part of the battery indicator remains unfilled and I'm only getting 14.1 estimated range.
For comparison, last month I used to get 15.2 to 15.6 of estimated EV, when the battery icon filled completely after each charge. I always use the charge timer to set charging to finish 10-20 minutes before I need to drive the car.
My M-F routine:
- car finishes charging at 8:30 (13.8-14.1 estimated EV)
- I drive 8 miles to work at 8:20-8:30 (5-7 estimated EV remain, depending on traffic)
- I set charge timer to finish at 6:30 (13.8-14.1 estimated EV)
- I drive 8 miles to home at 6:30-6:45 (5-7 estimated EV remain, depending on traffic)
My weekend routine is obviously different, more driving, more charing, and not using the charge timer. Could it be because i'm not using all the EV so the battery is being lazy and not feeling like charging more than I need? Are there any known side effects of mixing 110V and 220V charging?
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T. Over 8 Hrs the battery goes from 12 to 10V and the start is real sluggish. I'm going to test the load on the battery when it is just sitting there to see if there is a short somewhere. I'm wondering what the load should be from the clock and radio which draw power even when off.
It is 4+ years old so it might be just time for a new battery..... Alternator is working....14V on the battery when the engine is running...... so there is charge form the alternator.....
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Installed an RNS-510 in my 2006 Passat, and this morning, I could tell my battery was nearly completely drained. Also, I know the unit is receiving constant power because it never "boots up" even after leaving the car turned off for a while. Usually, it should completely shut off after the car is off for ~30 minutes.
I guess I need to update my CAN module. What is an updated CAN that will work, and where this is located on my 2006 Passat?
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My 2005 kia sorento has a battery drain somewhere, AAA checked alt and battery and said it is fine. I heard there could be a spring stuck in the starter?
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I own a 2003 BMW 5301 with the sports ,premium and 'M' package. Of late the battery drains for no apparent reason. This happened a few times 2 months ago and I had the battery and alternator replaced. This has again started happening. The car starts promptly in the morning but refuses to start in the evening when I am ready to leave work. It has to be jump started. This does not happen everyday and the BMW service folks have not been able to figure this out.
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I have a 96 grand am that will turn on fine at first but after it warms up, it will not start and just keeps trying to turn over. I've also tested the battery with a light test and there is a constant drain on the battery, it will be completely dead overnight and when I charge my battery after starting it once, it will fully charge in about 30 minutes from red so I'm wondering if it's just not holding a charge. I'm not sure if it won't start when it's warm or if the battery just doesn't have a charge??? I took the car to autozone and the alternator passed all tests and the battery is new, the starter is 8 months old. Also the brake light stays on.
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I have a parasitic drain on my battery. 4.5 amps to be exact. I've tracked it down to the CTSY fuse or Fuse 3 in the fuse block. When I pull the fuse it drops to 40 mA which is pretty normal.
What is the most likely cause of this drain since my lights seems to be working and shut off when the doors are shut? I've almost got the dash ripped apart to get at the wiring harness but hopefully I can find it before taking the whole dash out.
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Just wondering if leaving the USB plugged in with the car is off drains the battery at all? Should I unplug it when I shut the car off or is it ok to just leave it plugged in?
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I started having a problem last week when my 2007 Prius was setting for two days while I was using my pickup truck. Found the 12 volt battery dead so I disconnected it and tested it with a battery load tester. And it showed it was bad. Well Ok, that figures, since it was an OEM battery and ~6-7 years old.
I have another 2007 Prius here for body repairs so I took the aftermarket (newer) battery out of it and topped the charge off in it. The battery load test indicated it was still a serviceable battery.
Put it in the car and cleared the red triangle, etc.. Everything was fine.
Since I was still going to be short one battery, I contacted Battery Systems, my shops battery dealer and ask them to drop off a new Yellow Top Optima that fits the Prius (FYI my shop price is $159.96). I would be a couple days til their deliver truck would be here and again I left the car sit for a couple days and drove my truck. On the day of the delivery, I had an appointment and drove the Prius, about 15 miles. No problem. Left it at in a street parking space for about 2 hours. Came out and all systems were dead. Nothing. Dome light was the only indication that the battery was so low that it was very dim. Head light were off and I hadn't used them while driving.
I called for road service and got a jump start and the systems came up and I was able to clear the Read Triangle when I got home by turning the car off and back on again.
The new Yellow Top Optima arrived shortly there after and I installed it. Drove the car for 6 days and this morning everything was fine when I drove to church and left it, head lites off (never had used them), came out 2 hours later and when I started the car, I got the Red Triangle and Ready but continued home. I turn it off and on again but this time I got no Ready but the Triangle and the whole sting of check light. Could only get it from park into neutral. Nothing else. Wouldn't clear.
Using my Torque Pro program, tried to read the ECU and it indicate no codes stored, Several tries, no codes or history. Called friend who has reader that will read the CAN Bus and he managed to find an odd P0503 code having to do with a speed sensor. Cleared that and the Triangle went out.
In the end I went and checked the voltage of the new battery and it was only 12.01 volts. I put the load tester on it and the condition is fine. Just the charge voltage is low.
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