Snapper - Mower :: Engine Began To Smoke And Lose Power / Eventually Stalling
Apr 30, 2013
My Snapper mower has a 11.5 hp B&S OHV engine that was filled with 5W20 oil for storage over the winter to enable me to start it occasionally in the cold weather to keep the fuel system from gumming up. Today I fired it up and decided to cut the yard but after 10 minutes the engine began to smoke and lose power, eventually stalling. The oil level was OK and after leaving it to cool a few minutes I checked the plug and it was loaded with oil so I changed it and the engine started but smoked. I drove it to my shop and adjusted the valves and drained the oil which ran out like water. After filling with HD 30 oil it started on the first pull and I finished mowing the yard, about half an hour, with no problem.
The light oil was apparently too thin for the air cooled engine and B&S does specify 30 weight when the temperature is above 40*. Hopefully there was no damage done to the engine. I will be much more careful about the oil viscosity from now on.
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I have a 2001 Durango. My one year old battery suddenly began to lose its charge last month if the car sat for two or more days. A local repair shop determined the alternator was okay, but the battery was bad. The parts store agreed and replaced the battery under warranty.
A week later the new battery also went dead after the car had been parked for two days. I then took it to a Dodge dealership that kept it for over a week, but couldn’t find anything wrong. Even after being parked over the weekend, it started right up for them.
After getting it back home I drove it for three days. I parked it for two days, and the third morning the battery was completely dead. After charging with a trickle charger for a couple of hours the car started fine.
I bought the car new and have kept up on all the maintenance. It’s parked in my driveway the same way for over seven years with the doors locked. What’s going on?
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I picked up a 2003 6.0 awhile back went ahead and did studs,gaskets, delete. Was driving it and seemed to lose power, started coughing and carrying on blowing bluish white smoke then shut off. Ended up hydrlocking #5, Oring on injector was tore when took out. Put all back together, ran horrible, did a balance test with AE, showed #3 injector, replaced, ran horrible, did AE dropped #1 injector. So in process of replacing the rest of the injectors. Just wondering why it is or was dropping them 1 at a time. Ficm was showing 47.6 to 48.6 volts, could that be it?????
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When flooring with 1st or 2nd gear engine suddenly lose power, smoke like hell (white smoke) and engine start to shake badly? It disappears after few minutes when engine turned off. When cold it will go in "that" stage almost on every flooring. When warm it possible will start to shake a little and disappear after a minute without turning off engine.
After CCV breather valve(was broken) , turbo and nozzle replacement this problem still exist.
What could cause that problem?
*Golf mk4 AHF 81kw with new turbo, new bigger nozzles and chip.
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My beloved standard, 2000 Ford Ranger, with an estimated 170,000 miles on it, has a problem with stalling that keeps getting worse. 2 different garages have failed to fix this problem three times. Many parts have been replaced/checked (like battery, plugs/wires) and the fuel and induction system was cleaned, fuel pressure, Compression and engine vacuum were all fine. The Check Engine Light goes on and off all the time and does not seem to relate to the problem. When the last garage hooked it up to the computer, nothing related to the problem was identified, they reported. The invoice/report from them is attached to this posting.
My problem began about 2 years ago. The truck would only stall out when I first began driving, after about a mile, and only if I was going downhill and was coming to a stop. Then it would putter and choke and ultimately stall out completely. After my 30 minute commute (near highway speeds) the truck would then be fine the rest of the day, with no problems stalling when I drove to a meeting or out to lunch. Since it began, it has gotten steadily worse. Now, pretty much whenever I decelerate downhill, and come to a halt, it will stall out unless I leave it in neutral and keep fluttering the gas peddle to give it more gas. It even happens when I'm not going downhill. It does not happen when I first start driving, but after a mile or so, it happens almost whenver I come to a stop. It sounds like the truck isn't getting enough gas, and if I don't keep pumping it with signifcantly more gas, it will stall.
Once stalled out, if I try to start it up again immediately, it is VERY hard to make it start. I have to keep turning it over before it finally sparks to life. It sounds pretty awful. otherwise it starts easily. IF, however, I let it stall out in a parking lot at a gas station, for example, and I go into the store and make a couple quick purchases, when I go out to start the truck, it fires right up with no problem. It only has a VERY hard time starting up when I'm in an intersection and try to re-start it immediately after it stalls out.
The two different garages that have failed to fix it were both able to easily replicate the problem, so that was not an issue. Amount of gas in the truck and temperature outside are both irrelevant.
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I recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
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My 18 year old daughter has a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe that I owned for 8 years before passing down to her. Just recently she was driving when all 4 brakes locked up and the brakes began to smoke when she attempted to drive it to a location where she could pull over. The pedal went all the way to the floor. ABS light is on. Had a tow truck bring it to my brother's house. The tow truck guy was able to back it off his truck and it stopped fine. Later when my brother test drove it, the same problem occurred. My brother replaced the Master Cylinder but it didn't work.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
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In the past month for 3 times I've experienced problems with engine start (starter turned properly and I could hear fuel pump working). Yesterday however, I noticed that during full acceleration - at higher revs, engine suddenly loses a bit of power and at the same time you can feel kind of rattling or vibration in the engine. After letting off the gas pedal everything goes back to normal ... Besides, everything seems to be normal. Lambda control light does not light up indicating any errors. However I get a faulty knock sensor code 1-4-3. To my intuition the problem is with the ignition (but approx. 2 years ago I replaced distributor cap + rotor and the plugs + ignition wires were replaced about 3 years ago) or the amount of fuel in the mixture, but that could be caused by many things.
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Ok my R is all stock 59k miles. This morning I was getting on the freeway and some AMG hold was on my ass so I floored it and accidentally hit the rev limiter. After that It smelt almost like burnt rubber in the car. I rolled the windows down and the smell went away in about ten min. I didn't lose any power and no check engine light came on. When I got to work I got out and looked under, no fluids leaking. But the smell was still there. I'm gonna look at it more after I get home from work.
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I own a 2009 Nissan Sentra with a CVT transmission. It has about 65,000 miles. During the warmer months, my wife and I have both experienced times while driving (usually for more than 2 hours) when the engine would lose power while going up a hill. After doing some reading we learned that this was common in Sentra and Rogue models with CVT transmissions. Apparently the transmission fluid heats up, boils, and foams. The foam triggers a sensor that cuts power to the engine. Once the fluid's temperature decreases the car performs as it should.
We have visited the dealership and even have a case number with Nissan consumer affairs. After many appointments and phone calls, the only action taken was decreasing the level of transmission fluid. This action was approved by Nissan. This has worked a little but the issue still occasionally persists. For the record, neither my wife nor I are expecting this to drive like a race car. We'd just like it work correctly. I know Nissan has extended the warranty on this and many CVT transmissions.
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I had a dead battery on my '97 power stroke Ford F250. I realize now that when I was jumping it (successfully) I clipped the (black) ground cable to the alternator itself! Doy. The alternator is definitely dead now as I lose power after a few minutes of running the engine. My question is: did I blow a simple fuse or do I need to replace the whole alternator? How likely is it that I did further damage? I ask because I'm contemplating replacing the alternator myself. But maybe it would be wiser to get a tow to the mechanic.
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My 2003 ford expedition with the 4.6 v8 engine is having an issue i cant seem to pin point. The lights will get bright and then dim and the engine will die and I will lose power steering and brakes, it will start back up when i put it in park. Also while I am driving randomly the rpms will shoot up to between 3 and 4,000 rpms and go back down. I have seen a video on youtube that says the fuse box in this model is very likely to short out and ruin the circuit board. Mainly looking for any experience any of you have with a issue like this. The check engine light is on, Showing two codes for running too lean and a code for Idle air control valve. Mileage is 239,000 ...
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My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
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2007 Explorer Limited . The traction control light will start flashing and the engine will lose all power, it slows to 30-40 mph, then goes again and the light goes out. This is intermittent and seems to happen the most when the engine is cold. This morning it wouldn't go over 20 mph and finally warmed up and went well enough to get it home. There is no check engine light or codes saved. This is my wife's driver, and it completely stopped one day and threw a check engine light. She turned it off and restarted and the light went away and the car would go again. I've read Ford had bad throttle bodies, (TPS)...
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My 2003 Impala has been running fine for months now, after about 6 months or more it got exhaust work and 2 months ago it had to get exhaust work again.
The muffler actually fell off on a long drive and a garage nearby said the previous garage totally screwed it up because the said the exhaust pipe was cut too short and they had to weld together a "fixer piece".
Then we took it to our local Firestone simply to get the hubcap covers taken off as it was a free service and after we had to them put back on, about 1 day later, we started getting a strange noise.
Everything sounds fine when you are idling yet the minute you start moving and especially with all the windows up it sounds like somebody is running a lawn mover or an airplane is flying above.
There is no vibration or anything just that strange noise.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
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I have a 2002 sienna that will lose power to radio, air conditioner, power windows, surges when going down the road. So far it only last for a little while. And for a while now there has been times y…
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Problem started 2 days ago, driving around and my truck would stumble and lose power. Give it gas, won't rev up but it cleared and ran fine for a mile or so then it comes back (off and on all the way home). Check engine light didn't come on the first few times, came on a couple times on the way home (maybe 4 mile trip) but goes off when the truck runs fine. Thinking it was maybe the fuel pump (got 140K on the stocker). Talked to a few friends, some thought it was algae build up in the tank that was clogging the filter on the pump, underhood filter changed a couple hundred miles ago. Looked fine with slight brown build up at bottom of bowl when I replaced it.
Ran it around yesterday with a friend of mine and his scan tool hooked up, acted up once, check engine came on for a few seconds and shutoff. No code and for some reason we couldn't get it to live data while driving. I dumped in an algae eater yesterday and left the truck overnight since I had to work. Got home this morning to run her around the block to circulate the eater. Truck started and idled fine, went to pull out and she won't rev up, pumped the gas and NOTHING! Check engine light is on now but don't have a scan tool handy to read it. I heard the truck will store the code?
What this problem might be? What's a good scan tool for our trucks that can live data as well? CPS is good and already did the UVCH mod.
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I've got an E99 powerstroke. Recently it's been getting hard to steer, if not impossible. When I'm parked i can't turn the wheel and it gets better if i Rev the engine up, driving is usually ok and going around corners. It's just low speed, low rpm that it won't.
Also every once in a while when braking it feels like i lose all power brakes. The pedal goes to the floor and the brakes let go, then i can feel the pedal pump back up and i get a good feeling brake pedal again that actually stops well. All this happens within about a seconds time. But the steering is by far the worst.
I just did the power steering flush with atf and it didn't work. I'm thinking i need a new power steering pump, but want to ask here first to make sure. The truck has 290,000 on it, and it never has been replaced to my knowledge. I bought the truck with 147,000 however so it may have been done before that.
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