Silverado :: Milky Substance On Oil Cap And Inside The Tube
Dec 31, 2013
I've notice a milky substance on my oil cap and inside the tube where you add the oil, what can be causing this. 2001 Silverado 5.3.
View 4 RepliesI've notice a milky substance on my oil cap and inside the tube where you add the oil, what can be causing this. 2001 Silverado 5.3.
View 4 RepliesToday I opened my oil fill cap while my truck was running to find a milky substance on it and then noticed lots of steam coming out of the oil fill. I assume this is a head gasket as I have hard miss at idle on cylinder number two and cannot get it fixed. So far I have replaced a plug hoping it would fix the problem, it did not. I also noticed my temperature gauge going from normal range all the way up to the hottest it can go. Is all this just a coincidence or am I looking at a blown head gasket? 1997 4.6L F150.....
View 8 RepliesI have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 6.0 Ltr C2500 Auto tran Large Gas tank 120,000 miles. My gas tank filler tube vent hose has come off of its attaching point. It is still connected to the filler tube. I can not see where it connects on the other end. The small hose is long enough to reach the rear bumper on my truck noticed it hanging over the differential on the ground. Where to reconnect it to. I do have a check engine light showing. I fear my truck is falling apart slowly.
View 2 RepliesI am using Lexus GS-300 2006, I have problem with Aircon have leaking water inside both Driver and Passenger. And I cannot find where is the Drain Tube.
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to figure out a small leak on my mothers' Santa Fe. Recently I smelled coolant after my mother had gone for a long drive. I checked the Radiator and overflow... need maybe 1 qt of coolant.
Now I'm trying to find the cause of the missing coolant ! While it's running, I see no leak. Shut it off and it starts to drip from a small plastic tube on the firewall inside the engine bay area (on the passenger side). It drips down onto a rubber boot covering some steering stuff. Is this from the heater core?
2006 KIA SEDONA was running HOTT had it inspected and pressure tested (radiator shop & mechanic shop) no leaks found. A FEW DAYS AGO wouldn't crank checked oil IT WAS MILKY, drained radiator. Also drained engine oil first a gallon of anti freeze came out then the milky oil. Hopefully optimistic that it's not that serious. Am I wrong? what should I do next.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 dodge neon, a couple days ago i hit a bump and bottomed out on the front bumper and pulled a transmission hoes. after repairing that my car is now over heating, i have replaces the thermostat and the upper radiator hose. i am not leaking coolant, i have talked to several people on this and they say that it is either my water pump or i have a vapor/air lock inside the block, when i was replacing the thermostat i noticed that my coolant was a milky tannish color and was "chunky" and that is what is making people say that it is an air lock. but my hear is not blowing hot air, that makes me believe that it is the water pump.. when i start the car it take the usual 10 or so minutes to reach normal temperature just like it did before all this, but then it shoots up to almost over heating in less than 5 or so minutes.. I am really stumped by this and i am a college student so i rally cannot afforded a mechanic unless absolutely necessary....
View 17 RepliesSo a few days ago, I decided to check the anti-freeze for adequacy. It was just replaced with the timing belt / water pump job; but I'm a pilot, and I'm accustomed to checking things for myself. Lo and behold, the hydrometer didn't even register. I thought it was stuck, but then I noticed the oily film, and got scared. And then as I investigated further, I got puzzled.
The car had been driven maybe 500 miles since the timing belt / water pump job, had not overheated, and had not lost any coolant. The level in the radiator was up to the cap. Also, there was no oil at all in the radiator (at least that I could detect), and the concentration tested fine. But there was oil in the reservoir -- but it didn't look like crankcase oil. It was clear -- like water -- and felt a bit thinner than crankcase oil. Also, the outlet at the bottom of the reservoir was clogged.
There also was some sealant in the reservoir (it looked like the BarsLeak tablets), but none that I could detect in the radiator. That in itself doesn't bother me because a lot of people (including me) routinely toss a few tablets in the coolant -- Saturn used to do it from the factory -- but it does suggest at least the possibility of a previous coolant leak that someone treated with BarsLeak.
At the moment, there's no evidence of coolant loss, no water in the exhaust, no water in the oil, and no oil in the radiator. I haven't done a compression test. I did change the plugs, and there were no obvious coolant deposits on them. They were carbon-fouled, but considering that the PCV valve was clogged and the mileage on the plugs, that didn't surprise me.
So what I'm postulating is that the previous owner's son (who was the primary driver of the car) mistakenly poured some sort of engine oil additive, power steering additive, or something else intended for use elsewhere, into the reservoir; and the mechanic who did the timing belt and water pump didn't notice it (which also kind of bothers me).
The fact that the power steering pump had a bit of chatter would tend to reinforce that hypothesis. I've been doing a gradual replacement of the power steering fluid, which seems to have quieted things down. It was black as tar when I started, so I probably should completely replace it. I may do that this coming weekend. In any case, I removed, cleaned, and unclogged the coolant reservoir, replaced it, refilled it, and everything seems fine. It's kind of baffling, though.
This is what i have going on with my 2004 v-10 with 100k+ miles on it after a got a low coolant warning and I put some more of the red coolant fluid in it. I later checked it out and found that most all of the coolant connections including the ones on top of the block and manifold have this hard crusty red stuff on them...?
View 1 RepliesThe passenger front floor on my Town & Country van is saturated with a redish substance. Also on the incline where you would rest your feet. Window not leaking, not spilled tea, no major smell. So anti-freeze or oil? Mechanic took a sample to dry out to see if it is oily-he's not in today now. I'm guessing the whole van could be a fire hazard if it is oil? Not wanting to put my kids in it if it is a fire hazard?
View 13 RepliesSo I replaced my air filters today and my drivers side intake hose was wet with a brownish oily substance. I looked around for obvious culprit but found none. Looks like there is an aluminum brick there for brakes but it was shinny and clean the shock tower covers had what looked like built up of this substance. Doesn't leak onto the driveway and see no other signs anywhere else.
View 4 RepliesHad green substance in snow near tailpipe or exhaust pipe ! Im sure this is not good (most likely antifreeze ) Truck has about 82000.00 miles on it and has towed sleds to vermont and back each year about 6 times or so .Looks like a head gasket, any thoughts on this problem ,overflow tank is down a little below cold minimum line. Is a additive possible? I am original owner and have not beat on truck ,oil has been changed regularly ,tranny and coolant have been changed. 2004 F250 ext. cab 5.4 v8 gas...
View 9 RepliesI recently upgraded my exhaust from stock to a 4" Magna Flow Turbo back kit. After the upgrade, I noticed a strange rattle coming from the tail pipe. It sounded like the pipe was vibrating on something but I checked and it is free from anything touching it. There are no strange noises coming from the engine area. it is only herd at the end of the pipe. If I start the truck it makes a the loose rattle noise like something is loose inside the pipe like the sound you get when you have a bad muffler. About after 4 or 5 minutes I hear the exhaust noise change pitch and make a whooshing noise like a gate or something opening or closing and changing the exhaust flow. After a while it goes away and make the loose rattle returns. The truck has lots of power and preforms great. Where to look?
View 3 RepliesThere is a tube/hose going from the air intake duct to the rocker arm cover.
I need to replace it but don't know what it's called to look it up.
1991 Volvo 740 Turbo
200K miles
I was examining EGR valve and found a huge crack on a tube that stems out from the head of the EGR valve and goes into the EGR vacuum controller. I need to find out what this tube with steel core is called so that I could order new one at a dealer. Or can I get this from Autozone or Pepboys too?
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a co-worker brought over a 2000 chevy S-10 v6 automatic 4x4 with a leaking/broken dipstick tube. he bought the new tube/gasket & 6 quarts of auto fluid, and i told him to get a trans filter & gasket since I may need to remove the pan to get the old end of the dipstick tube out.
I was able to get it all out, and get the new tube in fishing it around the rear of the block for a few minutes. I got everything all seated up the tube had to be tapped in with a rubber mallet from the topside.
I checked the tube & seemed to have a nice seal. I replaced the mount bolt, put the filter & pan back on. filled it up & started up the truck.. rowed through the gears. seemed just fine until I looked under the truck. Almost all the ATF I had put in, on the floor.
I attempted to pull the tube & tried to put a little red RTV on the sealing grommet, on the outside & inside. I cleaned the tube & all other surfaces. same results...
how to adapt the tube to a compression fitting that bolts in to the trans .750 hole...
Was servicing my vehicle today and this tube snapped in half. Called ford, dont have it since its an 'obsolete' legacy part.
Tried 1aauto, rock auto, both dont have it.
Am I out of luck? is there an alternative? can I just use a rubber hose instead to connect the pcv valve to the other end part?
I have the above passat with the AWM motor. There is signs of moisture in the dipstick tube, but not on the oil fill cap. Now today the plastic dipstick funnel snapped due to being frozen to the dipstick.
Now the dipstick had what looks like lithium grease on it. The car has been slowely loosing coolant. But exhaust is clear, no signs of steam or coolant burning through exhaust.
But if the lithium grease like substance on the dipstick was a oil/coolant mix WHY did it freeze . I use a 50/50 mix of pentofrost SF. According to their lable should be good down to below zero. It has not gotten that cold here yet, even at night.
Why or how I could be getting moisture into the motor? And why is it only visible on/in the dipstick funnel and nowhere else.
I have a 2010 camry se 2.5l (2ar-fe). I replaced spark plugs and found oil in #4. It was on plug not in cylinder. There is a little oil at bottom of spark plug tube. My guess is there is a gasket/seal at bottom of spark plug tube. Am I correct? How to replace?
View 3 RepliesI was checking the oil this morning before getting ready to drive (for an hour) to the in-laws for Christmas, and the Effing orange plastic dipstick tube broke about halfway down. Now I'm afraid to drive for an hour at highway speeds, for fear that a lot of oil might come out of that compromised Effing orange plastic dipstick tube part -- would you all agree that I should not drive the car? Figures this would happen on Christmas Eve when nothing is open.
View 6 RepliesI was checking the oil this morning before getting ready to drive (for an hour) to the in-laws for Christmas, and the Effing orange plastic dipstick tube broke about halfway down. Now I'm afraid to drive for an hour at highway speeds, for fear that a lot of oil might come out of that compromised Effing orange plastic dipstick tube part -- would you all agree that I should not drive the car? Figures this would happen on Christmas Eve when nothing is open.
Effing orange plastic dipstick tube!