I have just had my transmission rebuilt and torque converter replaced. Now the torque converter will not lock up. It turns 2700rpms @ 55 mph! The shop says it maybe my speedometer causing this because it is stuck at 20 mph. was this way before it went into the shop. I'm replacing the stepper motors next week when the parts get here.
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2005 Avalanche (basically, a Silverado) which has suddenly developed a possible illness. Whenever I start the truck and begin moving (forward or reverse), I hear one (and only one) loud squeak that seems to be coming from the general area of the torque converter or drive shaft (but who knows exactly). The squeak doesn't happen immediately upon moving but always happens within the first 20-30 feet of movement and then no more. If I put the truck in park, re-engage the automatic transmission and start moving, I cannot recreate the sound.
However, if I turn off the engine altogether, restart the truck and begin moving, it happens again exactly as before. It happens every time the vehicle has been restarted, regardless of whether the engine is hot or cold. Once it's happened, I can drive hundreds of miles and it won't happen again until I turn off the engine and restart it. Further, I've determined recently that if I start the truck on a hill and let it roll while in neutral and without a foot on the brake, the squeak still happens. Therefore, it's not dependent upon the transmission being in gear or the brakes being applied!
I drive a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4 with 180,000 miles. A couple months ago my O/D light started flashing. When ever the code flashed i would pull over and I would take the negative cable off to get the codes to clear. While driving it, it would shift normally in till i go to about 40 mph. Then the light would come on and the torque converter would refuse to lock up. I would be in 4th gear at high rpms and when i came to a stop there would be a hard 2-1 shift. I tried solving this by changing the fluid and filter twice. I also replaced the valve body gasket and tcc solenoid. This solved nothing and it continued to do the same thing as before.
I then took it to 2 shops. One told me they go the code for the torque converter and that i would need to replace the whole tranny. The next place told me some internal pump was failing and that a rebuild was recommended. After this I continued to drive it knowing there was no point in trying to save the original tranny. My dads best friend owns a shop about an hour away and said he would replace it with a used one for free. All i had to do is pay for parts. Then one day while driving the transmission blew up and i lost all my gears. Then it was taken to my dads best friends shop. While it was there he replaced it with a used one along with a couple other parts like the starter.
After the used tranny was put in the same problems still kept happening. They tried clearing the code having no luck. I eventually picked it up my self and took it back home to deal with. I can now get the torque converter to lock up but it doesn't want to till I am going over 50mph and at high rpms. The light still comes on when i get to about 40 mphs. I tried clearing the PCM and that fixed nothing. Then i tried replacing the thermostat( It was bad anyways) thinking that the thermostat was not sending the right info to the pcm to make the torque converter lock. Now im completely stuck. What could be causing the problem. I know there are a ton of external sensors that control the torque converter lock up.
I have a 2002 7.3 with the 4r100 173k miles. If your nice to it she drives fine, but if you get on it the torque converter will slip/stall kinda revs up like 300 rpm then slams really hard between 1st and 2nd. Other gears work fine. I've only had it not happen like 10 times since I've owned the truck ..... I don't really beat on it except for towing which I'm starting to do a lot of. Wondering if putting a new stock torque converter in it is worth it.? Not gona blow the bank on a TC unless I'm putting a brand new trans in the truck. Which I don't think it needs in the near future.
View 14 RepliesTorque converter lock V6 vs. V8.
When O took my V8 in for service the dealer gave me a V6 as a loaner. I noticed right away that in 6th gear the torque converter locks up and stays locked until the gas is pushed way down, then, if I push further it shifts down to 5th. On my V8 it does not seem to lock at all and acts like 50's automatic.
It this normal? Can I change the setting at which the torque converter releases the lock? Clearly the 05' V6 has different programming. I have have drive a standard transmission all my life and this is my first automatic and I much rather have that connected feeling between engine and road!
Have a 2004 hyundai accent and I think I am having problems with the torque converter locking up in a timely fashion. It typically takes 15 to 20 minutes when I am driving on the highway. Is this normal for it to take that long? My gas mileage is terrible (22 mpg last fillup) and I am thinking its related to this.
View 7 RepliesMy torque converter is on the way out so I need to look for a new one. I'm pretty new at the transmission thing but I was told by my indy that my torque converter is on the way out. My problem is that I can't find the part number for my torque converter. I have a 2000 1.8t tip ATW.
View 3 RepliesSo here I am driving away for the fuel station and then the tranny tries to shift and I hear and feel a loud clunk followed by no power. I have had no previous issues with the tranny but I believe it has not had any previous work done. The truck is an 02 7.3L with 200500 miles. I am guessing the torque converter is the culprit it still had very little forward motion when I tried to move the truck didn't matter what gear I was in. I intend to have the tranny beefed up but don't intend to go crazy. I do tow an 11,000 lbs TT on a fairly regular basis and have a PHP 6 position switch which can be set for as much as 120 hp from stock but don't do any hot rodding. I am mostly just looking to beef it up and provide as much strength towing.
View 2 RepliesI highjacked another thread yesterday but didn't get many responses so I thought I would start a new one... I've done some searching here but no one had any real answers or had a different reason for the vibration...
We have a stock '05 F150 with 24k mi that is having Vibrations not related to bad tires or a bad trailer. It rattles any cups or change that is in the center console area and the dashboard. It seems to come up through the floor.
Symptoms timeline:
The rear pops when you turn tight in a parking lot. I've been told this is normal because of the ratcheting LSD? Is this true?
The tranny fluid was low and we could not find where it was going. Put several qts in it and finally took it to the dealer where they replaced the bad seal between the transmission and transfer case. So we know they took the driveshaft out and the transfer case. Not sure if they dropped the transmission out.
We have a vibration from about 40mph-55mph under medium-full throttle. A lot worse when towing. Put it in neutral and it goes away. Rev the motor and you don't feel it. Only happens under load. Happens in 3 and 4th gear. Goes away once the torque converter locks up.
Am I going down the right path in saying it's a bad torque converter?
I have replaced my oil pan gasket with a felpro. I had oil leaking from the top of the oil filter. This oil pan has the filter going through it. I have replace the oil cooler cap and gasket and finally replaced the oil pan gasket. It worked. I do no have any leaks from above the filter. But I am leaking from inside the bell housing. It is still coming from the oil pan and nowhere else. (I have dye in the oils and can see it leaking)
SO I went back to the Haynes to recheck the torque settings. I originally torqued all of the bolts for 89 inch lbs Per the haynes manual)
here is what it says:
oil pan bolts:
step one (to engine and front cover)............89 in-lbs
step two (to rear cover).............................18 foot-lbs
this step two is not too clear.....
which bolts are the bolts to the rear cover??
what I think this means is the 2 long rear bolts that go to the rear cover should be 18 foot-lbs. in the haynes manual they are bolts 13 and 14.
Is this right.....I started to do this but then stopped becuase I felt I was going to strip the bolts.
This kind of makes sense due to there are no other bolts in the middle of the rear of the pan to the block.
I bought a 2001 Beetle with a 1.9 TDI Diesel engine, automatic transmission 200K miles. When sitting at a stoplight or even when just starting out in the morning the transmission won't engage. I have to bring the engine up to about 1600 RPM's then with a clunk it goes. After that it shifts fine. It even down shifts nicely when going up a hill. Now, if I am on the freeway with it and want to pass another car, it will unlock again and slip if I get on it to hard. It then will lock back in and go. Checked the transmission fluid and its full. (I still can't believe that can't put a stupid dip stick in new cars) I am trying to do all the possible cheap fixes first in hopes that it could be something easier then replacing the transmission.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2004 Ford Taurus has been acting up. It shudders sometimes at stoplights and also while driving sometimes. The auto parts store plugged in the computer and said it was the torque converter not working properly. We took it to "The Answer" in Evansville, Indiana for their advertised free diagnosis. They checked it out and told us basically the same thing. The torque converter was acting up. (Slipping? Catching? I don't remember the exact details...)
They said the remedy would be a big expensive job (install rebuilt transmission? Replace torque converter?). Is there anything we can do to prolong the inevitable such as fluid, filter change...flush...additive? We are resigned to the fact that we will need to buy another vehicle but wonder if we should buy one now since the Taurus may only last another few weeks or can we put off buying another car because the Taurus may last another six to twelve or more months.
Girlfriend got a 98 ex. got a CEL for a torque converter clutch circuit. Changed out the TCC and the light is still on. I don't know what to do next.
View 1 RepliesMy 94 e4od does a few things. It doesn't seem to engage positively all the time. It doesn't grab well in manual 1st, but does in D. I had the FIPL reset at the dealership and he said he never saw a FIPL needing to be set so far one way. Also it has overheated a few times. Either the TC doesn't lock up correctly or its just not all the way in gear (if thats possible) I changed the fluid but it did it again recently.
Also the speedometer is jumping around like a nut case, the abs light is on...sometimes, when I have the headlights on and put my right turn signal on it feels like the TC locks up. Oh, yeah the lights are all jacked up in the back. The left turn signal light also has a small amount of voltage when I put the headlamps on (my test light lights up dimly) I thought it might be the multi function switch so I removed that and cleaned the connections. Nothing changed but I dont think that was it. I have troubleshoot this all day and I don't have too much of a clue to whats going on.
I have a f150 2002 with a 5.4 and 4r100 (yes im sure), and a week ago my torque converter started getting stock (locked) when i came to a stop making the engine stall (it took a couple of minutes before my engine got warmed up). I checked the codes and got 0740 and 0743 which relate to the tcc solenoid malfunctioning. To make sure the tc wasn't physically stuck y cut the purple wire that signals the solenoid to lock the converter, the truck ran fine and as expected the tcc never locked.
So I thought I narrowed it down to the solenoid pack, which I bought (300 bucks ouch) and changed it yesterday. Today again the same thing started happening and the truck is throwing me the same codes, so I am a bit frustrated. I don't wanna go ahead and buy a torque converter without knowing the real cause, what could it be? I didn't see any melted wires down there but could my long tubes be shorting that wire out randomly in an unseen place? or could my tc be bad?
Need to diagnose:
- Truck idles a little rough sounds a little like " puff , puff ", when put in reverse - still sounds the same ( looping hesitation )
- When accelerating feels pretty good until about 40-45 then it starts to shake , shudder and loose power. Shakes and shudder pretty violently.
Did a full ATF fluid service - no improvement
Aside from that it does not seem to have any other shifting issues at all. Problem is intermittent. Throughout the day it may run fine, and then at another point in the day it runs like poop when hitting 45+.
Could it be a bad Ignition Coil Pack ? Car has ZERO codes appearing - would either TC or COP set one off ?
Here is a pic of the one COP that I found does have a crack on the top ( passenger side ) - not sure if that could cause the truck to act the way it does.
I have a 97 F-150 Supercab XLT, 4X4, 4.6L W, 4r70W with electronic Overdrive, manual shift transfer case. I need to remove and replace the Torque Converter. My question is: Would it be easier to drop the transmission and transfer case or pull the engine loose and move it forward to get at the torque converter?
It is shifting in and out of overdrive to third, and then back into OD, and back into third erratically and for no apparent reason. It is also slipping intermittently in first from a dead stop and locking all at once, shifts hard then. When I first drive it the OD light does not flash and the OD off switch works, once it warms up good it starts shifting erratically and the OD off switch starts flashing, then the off switch does not work.
I did not get any codes returned on autozones little scanner and am taking it to the ford dealer for a full scan today to see if there might be any other damage or cause for this problem. The problems started when I blew a hose to the trans cooler in the radiator and lost fluid. I didn't notice the blown hose until it started slipping and pulled over, replaced the hose and fluid. Had problems ever since. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the ABS sensor in the differential so far.
Been doing a lot of reading about shudder/vibration on the 2011+ F150's and it seems to all center around the two piece driveshaft found on the longer wheelbases and more during take-off than other times. I have an '11 5.0L 4x4/auto with the 145 wheelbase and the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and am experiencing a shudder in 3rd gear primarily, most noticeable during light acceleration with medium load (like gently accelerating up a slight incline).
When this is occurring I can see the tach needle fluctuating just slightly (maybe 50-150rpms, just barely bouncing) but I have no check engine light and the only time I have take-off shudder is under hard acceleration which feels like axle hop (which isn't too rare on soft leaf springs with 360hp engines!).
Anyways, this 3rd gear shudder is very soft and nobody has noticed it that has rode in the truck with me, but it sure feels like the old AODE/4R70W trans would when the fluid was getting old and the TC started to shudder during "soft" lock. 5.0L? Certainly could be a miss, though power is good, mileage is great and no CEL is lit...
With my first tow under my belt from this weekend in my new-to-me truck, I quickly learned that my TC shutters in 5th if I hold fuel down enough to bog the truck before it wants to down shift. The shutters are pretty violent as compared to others I've experienced in Explorers and F150s. When do you know it is time to change it out? Or, is there something else I can or should do before changing it?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata, performs flawlessly, my wife's 2011 Elantra, not so much. We've had issues with her car from the get-go. The Elantra has 32k miles on it. About 15k miles ago the dealership reprogrammed the transmission. Problem seemed to be fixed, to a degree. Hiccup here and there.
Last night when my wife came home from work she said it was shifting hard. I just shrugged it off. We came in to town, about 5 miles down a busy highway. 55mph, no problems.
Car sat for a couple hours. We got in the car to come home, buttery smooth first few shifts to 35 mph. Car had probably been running about 5 minutes. Pulled out onto highway, shifts 1-2 fine, 2-3 holds about 2500 rpms, won't shift, won't shift, BAM! repeat 3-4, and I believe 4-5. I was so shaken up I didn't count. I pulled off and took the back road and it continued to do it for about 3 miles. It almost feels like the torque converter is locking up. Someone mentioned a transmission temperature sensor, but that is only in Sonata's, no one has seen it in an Elantra.
By the time we got home, the car was shifting normal. This morning I get in it because now my wife won't drive it, and it works fine. Works fine all day.
Go into dealership, they say everything is fine, they called Hyundai, they say nothing wrong, come back when you have a problem.
I have a 1997 Dodge Avenger ES that reads code P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. I've replaced the transmission control module, and filter. I've called the Dodge dealership and asked if the new transmission control module needs to be programmed. The service department said "Possibly" I said "Well it's shifting better than before. If there wasn't any firmware on it what would it do?" He said "My guess it that the car wouldn't shift." I asked if the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid visible once you remove the filter. He said "I'm not sure." Clearly, my car isn't going there. Then asked to be transfer to the Parts department to see if there was a part called Torque converter clutch solenoid. That answer was "No" there isn't a part listed called "Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid". What should I do or try?
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