Silverado :: P0307 - Check Engine Light Comes On When Going Up Hills / Under Heavy Load
Oct 9, 2009
I have a 2001 chevy silverado 3500 6L gasoline engine.
I have been getting a P0307 random multiple misfire #7 on and off for a few months now, occasionally the P0300. Check engine light comes on when I am going up hills, often under heavy load and sometimes when the truck is cold in the morning and the truck starts to run rough until the code clears, which it does pretty quickly usually. I have replaced coil, crank sensor, cam sensor, fuel injectors. If I unplug the battery overnight the code will be cleared and the truck will be running just fine the next day.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I'm having an issue with my 2003 Silverado, current engine is LS1 from a WS6 Trans Am, mostly stock, stainless headers, no cats, stall converter. I replaced fuel pump a few weeks ago and last week i took a road trip and when I hit the interstate the CEL started flashing. I pulled over and used my scanner and saw that it was P0307. I cleared code and continued on. The only noticeable problem was that it was not shifting into overdrive. After a while the light quit flashing and eventually it shifted into OD.
This happened several more times on a 750 mile trip. I had a mechanic friend check it over and he couldn't find anything, wasn't throwing codes at that time. He check sparked plug, swapped the coil to #5 and still had the issue. Didn't get a chance to check the fuel injector. The trip home it did the same thing. IF it were indeed a bad injector, wouldn't the problem be ongoing instead of coming and going? Took to local chevy dealer thinking they could diagnose it but since it didn't throw a code they couldn't find anything.
View 5 Replies
recently my check engine light came on, I had the codes read, the tech said that i had air getting into my fuel system, i replaced my gas cap. my light is still on, he also mentioned some kind of emissions sylinoid may need replaced, or a vent valve idk.
I recently drove up to Sandusky OH for the weekend, my light didnt come on til i refuled with gas containing 15% enthenol. the engine is running fine, no miss, has good power. I ran it down to a 1/4 of a tank and filled back up and the light is still on.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2003 silverado 1500 4x4. The check engine was on along with the abs light. I went to advance and let them tell me what was going on. I don't know the specific code but it said the passenger front abs speed sensor was bad so I replaced it along with new brakes, rotors and calipers. Now the abs, check engine and red brake light is on. There is also a message telling me that the brakes need serviced. I went back to advance and let them tell me once again why those lights were on and it was still the passenger speed sensor bad. What could be going on with it? Before it was replaced the red light never came on but now it is.
View 10 Replies
1996 Silverado 350 engine. When I turn ignition key on, all system check lights come on as they should except "check engine soon". If I connect code reader the light comes on and will come on the next time ignition is turned on but only one time. The second time you try it, it does not. What would cause this?
View 3 Replies
Ok so I just replaced my mass air flow sensor about a week ago. My check engine light just came back on and when I scanned it it said mass air flow sensor. What could be causing this to happen again? The codes are P0102, P0440, P0440.
View 4 Replies
First of all, its 5.7L V8, it's been very well maintained, I've had my fair share of problems but nothing that has been that serious, except for the "check engine" light for the O2 sensor.
For about the last 4 months i've had the problem of the truck sometimes jerking while on the road. Once i started to speed up it seemed to not speed up which when it did, it jerked a bit. That was in the beginning.
AS OF NOW, the jerking has stopped but every now and then when i pull out of the garage and start to turn onto road it turns off, but all the status lights are left on. & when turn the key to turn it off and restart it starts again every time. Ive noticed that i was better off with the "check engine" light on then now because every time it is off it has these problems.
Also, when I barely start to tap the brake, again not all the time, sound skips on the radio. & this always happens when i tap on the brake & this happens more frequently when the "check engine" light is off.
View 3 Replies
I just bought this used truck, 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 extended cab. I noticed some shaking while in idle when I got it back home. The check engine light came on a day or two later, and I recently had a diagnostic test ran on it at the local AutoZone. It came up that I had a P0135 o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) malfunction and a P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor signal performance issue. The check engine light comes and goes. I stopped by Walmart for about 10 or 15 minutes and when I got back into the truck, the issues reoccurred. For about a minute, the check engine light actually started blinking! And then went away and started running normal again. Its upper confusing. I bought some MAF cleaner to use on it tomorrow and figured that wouldn't definitely clear up my issues, but I'm still wondering if the MAF sensor is enough to warrant the CEL to blink like that?!
View 6 Replies
Question about my 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe SE. The car has 25,000 miles on it, and just recently like in the last 1,000 miles I have notice when I use the AC, or even the air without the AC the engine reacts very poorly like it is under extremely heavy load. The car shakes and vibrates.
I completely understand that in AC mode, the compressor kicks in, but this to me seems excessive. The car vibrates and the idle drops substantially. AC on is worse that no AC.
In addition, idle or under 35 is worse that HWY driving. The vibration is so pronounced that I sometimes wont turn the AC or air on as the vehicle feels like it is going to rip itself apart.
This is something new and never vibrated this much before the 25,000 miles. Anything I should look into or have the Hyundai Dealer look into? What I may be over looking? Would more stout battery work?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2001 Silverado and for some reason all the dash lights on come from check engine to the abs light gas gauge goes to empty then back to normal 9 times out of 10 these lights come on. It has done this for a while and doesn't effect how it drives, I am possibly wanting to sell it and cannot explain hat it runs fine with this problem. Where do I start to figure this problem out .
View 4 Replies
I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 265k miles. I use Mobil 5-30 synthetic oil and I drive a steep hill every day and the engine knocks in the summer afternoons when I use cheap 87 Octane gasoline from Safeway or Costco. If I use better 87 octane gasoline (Chevron, Shell) generally there is less knocking. Also during the winter months no knocking even with cheap gasoline.
During summer I can sometimes make the knocking go away by accelerating or decelerating. The knocking is intermittent and generally occurs only during the steepest parts of the commute. The engine might knock for 30 seconds to 60 seconds before its goes away as I try to change the engine RPM.
Unfortunately I am burning some oil at a rate of approximately half a quart every 5k miles. Generally I watch the oil level, but there have been cases where the oil level has fallen below the lowest mark on the dip stick so I suspect I have some carbon build up.
I've read posts where others have used additives like gumout regane and I've read posts that say not to use additives.
View 11 Replies
I have a 1998 chevy silverado z/71 4x4. I had a water leak and had the intake manifold gaskets replaced. Ever since then, the check engine light comes on and it soots up the o2 sensors and the 4 plugs on the right bank. It may run good for a month or so and then it starts all over again.
View 1 Replies
Problem description: A loud metallic rattling sound from under the car under moderate to heavy engine load, only when engine/exhaust is/are cold. It is noticeable from within the cabin with the windows rolled up and the sunroof closed. Crack a window or the sunroof and it's pretty loud. The first time I heard I, I thought "this is not good".
This is not an octane ping or valve train noise. It sounds like a coffee can with marbles being shaken in concert which what might be the rapping of a V8 engine's exhaust. I had a Sunbeam Tiger that rapped in the upper rpm ranges and this reminded me of that but instead of rapping, it shakes a can with marbles.
There has been much discussion and speculation as to what causes this. It does seem to occur only with late - 04 and up V8 Touaregs with the "sport" exhaust that replaced the "std"(?) exhaust used on the majority of the 04s.
Observation: I looked very closely at the heat shields, looking for ways they could rattle. On the passenger side (LHD), the heat shield has three main sections:
- Front: around/near the secondary cat (tightly secured)
- Rear: around/near the rear differential (tightly secured)
- Middle: between the two mentioned above (loosely secured)
The three sections overlap a little where they meet. It was very easy to tap on the middle shield and make a loud metallic sound. I put my finger between the two shields (where they meet) to isolate the two metal pieces and tapped again, and the noise was gone.
Theory: The harmonic resonance of the exhaust under load vibrates the middle heat shield and it rattles against the front and/or rear shields. As the shields heat up, they flex enough to provide clearance between each other and the noise goes away. This may be unique to the "sport" exhaust if (and I am only speculating) the heat shields were changed (in design or fitment) when they changed the exhaust.
Experiment: I tried a very simple experiment. I slightly bent the edges of the middle shield (~1/2 inch) where it was coming in contact with the front and rear shields. The allowed me to tap rather hard on any of the shields without them rattling against each other.
Result: I make the tweaks to the shields Sunday night. When I drove to work this morning, I put the transmission in sport mode and ran WOT until it shifted. Normally, I would have heard the sound (very loudly) but it was gone. No metallic sound. Not completely convinced, I repeated the experiment on the way home and, again, the sound was gone.
Summary: It was cool out when I was going to, and from, work (64F) and this would normally be the perfect set up for making the sound. I think that tweaking the heat shield has solved the noise on my Touareg. I am tempted to go back under there and pop-rivet a little brace between the shields so that they cannot rattle against each other again. On the other hand, I may just leave it be and do the pop-rivets if the noise comes back.
Anyway, I was excited to find a potential solution for my Touareg and wanted to share it will you all. I will post back after a while and report how it goes in the long term. Lastly, I really liked being able to put the air suspension in xtra-offroad and get under the car (easily) without using a jack....
View 16 Replies
I've been noticing over the past few weeks that in the 1,5-3k RPM range, usually more under load (e.g. going up a hill, in traffic) that the turbo sounds like its venting boost more/earlier. It's normal acceleration too, not WOT!
Now, I might not have recognized normally, but my girlfriend's MKIV 1,8t just exhibited the same sound (more noticeable), and it turned out to be the hose to the "pancake pipe"/intercooler came loose. It's kind of the same "hissing" that you would hear if a DV/hooter valve is bad.
I know what the normal "pssst" when taking the foot off the gas should sound like. And that happens at highway speeds and normal acceleration.
So, before I bring it in - is something like this normal on the MKVI 2,0? Is it supposed to be venting to atmosphere during that higher-load acceleration, like going up a hill? Once we got her 1,8t fixed, it doesn't make a sound other than normal turbo pressure release at expected times.
View 11 Replies
I have been getting some knocking the under most any loads . I do not have any codes. I tried premium gas and that did not make any difference. If this is not fixed what issues can this cause? What should I look for do get this fixed?
View 14 Replies
I have an 05 silverado 1500 crew cab z71 and i have a little bit of an issue with my Check Engine Light being on. The problem is when I tried to pull the code from the computer it wouldn't even read that it was plugged in at all. I talked to a buddy of mine and he said that could possibly be the reason its on.
What I am trying to figure out is what i have to do to remedy the situation so that i can actually be able to pull codes in the future. My truck inspection is out and need this light fixed.
Also every once in a while my battery light comes on and it says i need to service my charging system also because I have never seen it before.
View 3 Replies
So around September I changed my oil to mobile 1 extended performance full synthetic. Since then my check engine oil level light has came on twice, today being the second time. Both times it was at the add mark. The truck does not leak ANY oil, what might be going on?
View 1 Replies
I just change my oil last night and this morning my check engine oil level is on and my oil dipshows the correct amount of oil, what can be the problem?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2008 Passat Komfort Wagon with the 2.0T. At 40,000 miles, yes it only has 40,000 miles, the thing started hesitating and misfiring on me only during heavy load. I ran the codes and it said #4 cylinder misfire. The check engine light was only on during the time it was misfiring and hesitating. Took it to the VW dealer to have them run it again and get guidance and they verified the #4. When I picked up the car the CEL was illuminated. They said it does it when it misfires. I explained that it was not on when I dropped it off and they basically said tough cookies. So I replaced the #4 coil pack and all 4 plugs. CEL light still on, but wasn't misfiring. Next day it began misfiring again under heavy load. Took to Autozone to run the codes and now says misfiring on all cylinders.
View 6 Replies
Been having a problem where the alt belt squeals on cold start, under heavy load and sometimes at complete random when cruising at a steady speed.
It doesn't change when my air ride compressors kick on so I'm assuming it's not the alternator. The belt and tensioner are now brand new from VW. The car has no AC, so I am using belt #066 145 933 K (21.36x1264mm). Replacing the tensioner and belt made it a little better but it's still doing it.
I'm thinking PS pump because it squeals loudly when I nail the throttle around corners. Sometimes if I'm cruising and it starts doing it a little shake of the steering wheel makes it stop.
View 1 Replies
I posted earlier about a whistle that appeared when I was towing my old travel trailer (6000 pounds). It only happened a couple of times, and I had a hard time replicating it, so I elected not to waste any money with the deductable, and possible additional costs for a non-covered issue at the stealership.
Now, I am towing a larger 5th wheel trailer (11000 pounds), and am experiencing this whistle on every steep grade, while towing. Below are a couple of things I noticed, that had to be, before I would get the whistle:
* It only seems to happen while the cooling fan is engaged, and also only when the rpms reached 2800 and above.
*If the fan was on, but the rpms were turning below 2800 rpms, then it would not whistle. It would, however, after the transmission downshifts, bringing the rpms back up, while climbing.
*If the engine was spinning at 2800 rpms, and the engine fan was not engaged, then it would not whistle, until the fan would kick in.
* It only seems to occur when I am climbing a steep grade, on a warm day. Although, I haven't experimented on steep grades on a cold day...
It sounds to me like there is an issue with the engine fan system, but I thought I would put it out there, just in case any of the diesel guru's out there might know of something else that would cause a whistle like this, i.e., turbo?
Oh by the way, I also think that I have a performance reduction lately. However, I can't know for sure, as I have never towed this much weight with my truck before. I just kind of expected that I would be able to pull to the top of these grades, with a little extra peddle to spare. I have to floor it, just to "try" and keep up with traffic. And I haven't calculated my fuel mileage while towing this beast yet, but WOW, that fuel gauge needle sure does drop like a rock!
View 14 Replies
