My 2000 silverado has started to growl/grind intermittently...it doesn't appear to be the wheel bearings, or the brakes. This started after a short usage of 4x4 low. It seems like it isn't disengaging or slips back in at low rpms.....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Silverado 2wheel 1500 that has developed an unusual noise that seems to come from behind the dash (near the glove box). There is a roller type sound (creaky likes it's stretching something) that usually ends with a clunk. I'm pretty sure it does it whether the AC is on or not and it doesn't seem to affect the AC at all. I just had the thing in for maintenance so, I hesitate to take it back. I did have the blower control replaced about 10,000 miles ago (wouldn't come on until Speed 3) and I did have the cabin filter replaced recently.
View 2 RepliesOk, basic rundown. Stop at a red light, turns green, when i go it gives a strange grindy-growl from the rear. Lasts maybe 2 seconds then its gone. its very uncommon. But it is something i am interested in getting figured out. Doesn't happen any other time, only on complete stops.
View 2 RepliesWhile on the way back from the deer lease last week my '99 f250 sd 4x4 5.4l started a grind sound that would come and go randomly. Lasts about 1 second. Seems not to change the way it drives. The dealer had it for 2 days and couldn't find anything. This happens at freeway speeds 55-70 mph.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 F150 STX auto trans with the 4.2L V6 that has been having intermittent starting problems. It has 98,000 miles on it. It will start fine 99% of the time but sometimes when I turn the key the starter will grind once or twice then it can go a few weeks with out doing it at all. Then also sometimes it will crank turning over for several seconds but wont start. Then it starts fine the rest of the time. This has happened several times but only happens once every few weeks or so. Just trying to see if it needs a new starter or if its something else. It has a new battery.
View 3 RepliesI have a craigslist nightmare vehicle in the shop today, a 98' Toyota 4runner Limited V6. Runs and drives fine, but it's got a heck of a growl in the front end over 15mph. We removed the diff and found that when it was turned it had some vibration and a ton of noise. Disassembled it and found it to be full of metal flake, and it appears the spider gears are worn and causing a good lot of the noise. The bearings seem to be alright, but I'm planning to replace those anyway while we're inside, due to the amount of metal in the fluid.
My questions are:
1. Is this a common failure?
2. Where can I purchase spider gears? Most places don't seem to list them.
3. Is there a rebuild kit that includes bearings and spider gears so I can make one part order and run with it?
I have a 2005 Supercrew 4X2 with 110,000 miles on it. Lately I've noticed at 30 mph and up if I steer to the left I get a growling noise from the left front. When I straighten up or steer right it goes away. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel or seat of the pants...just this growling noise during a left steer. Tires are about half wore out...I went ahead and rotated them to see if the growl moved. It didn't, stays in the left front.
Does that sound like the bearings in the rotor are on the way out? It won't stop raining so I haven't had a chance to jack it up and see if I have I have play in that tire/wheel. I thumbed through my Haynes manual and it seems pretty straight forward to replace the rotor. New rotors/bearings, one time use nut, might as well do pads while I'm in there, torque nut to 275 ft. lbs. Am I on the right track? Any other way to diagnose this growl? Is the R&R of the rotor as easy as it sounds? Tips or trick, things I should know that Haynes isn't telling...
Been trying to track down a noise in the front end. Got a growl and what sounds like a big cat scratching its nails on a metal plate. The metal sound comes and goes, but the growl is always present at one level or another. It sounded like it was coming from the driver's side. I jacked the truck and checked everything on that side and it seemed tight. It was all replaced about two years ago. I then started looking around and found the sway bar links were shot along with the bushings. I then jacked up the passenger's side and checked that.
Should have done this first as it was pulling to the right and not the left. The wheel was hard to rotate and stopped rotating as soon as I stopped forcing it. It was making a growling noise, but not nearly as loud as when the truck was rolling down the road. It also had a bit of play that I tracked down to the hub assembly. The ball joints and u-joints were tight with no play at all. The dust seal that should be on the axle was gone and the hub seal looked beat. Tie rod ends all seemed good. Ordering part now. My question is there anything else I should look at?
I have been having towing with the X. I have been getting a growl lately sounds like the front left wheel bearing. Today I jacked it up and did the wiggle text. I have a very slight wiggle in both wheels. Is a slight wiggle normal? I know the bearing on the left is more than likely gone as the growl goes away when I jerk the steering wheel. But I haven't heard any noise from the right side yet.
View 14 Replies2002 Screw 4X4 with 5.4 ... Truck has 180K miles.
Howl / Growl noise we think from the front. Both front wheel bearings have been changed without improvement. A rotational issue as it only does it when moving and still does it if you put it in neutral and let it coast.
2 WD or 4 WD does not seem to make much difference. Been checking and testing everything without success. Drive shafts and u-joints are tight etc.
How to test it? It was my truck and is my son's truck now. They have run it on a hoist and tried to determine where the sound comes from. Going to try that again but it might be different when the wheels are not on the ground and there is no weight on things.
My 2003 Silverado 5.3 has an intermittent CEL. I plugged in the reader and found code P0304, misfire #4 cylinder. I changed the coil, swapped the spark plug and wire from #2 cylinder to see if the code would follow. Nope, didn't follow. I swapped the injector also, same results. My daughter decided to borrow the truck and drove it so low on fuel that the low fuel light came on in the drive way. I added about 4 gallons of fuel and now the light went off. I started the engine after a jump start, and the engine really runs rough and now won't stay running. I am thinking that the fuel filter is probably needing changed because of how low the fuel.
I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and will do that today. Now, what really puzzles me is the intermittent part. Sometimes it will run with no problem, but then the CEL will come on and the fun begins. The Chevrolet dealer says it's caused by the valves turning in the head and when it reaches a certain spot, it detects the misfiring #4 cylinder resulting in the CEL. If I pull in the driveway with the engine missing, go back out in a short time, start the engine and it runs fine. Same thing if it's running fine and I can start it and the CEL blinks and it begins missing, but may stop and run fine. I am stumped and not so sure about the turning valves.
My 8-year-old (2003), 134k mile Nissan Maxima has a new quirk. When the car is started from completely cold (as in over night), there is a distinctive intermittent squeaking noise (think water being rubbed against glass) coming from the left front somewhere near the tire. The car only does this for about 5 minutes or so until it's warmed up and it has to be going 20 miles an hour before it starts. Once the car is up and running you can turn it on and off all day, let it sit for a few hours even, and it's fine. What's going on?
View 4 RepliesI have a new 2016 F250, few months old, loving life. I noticed a weird noise/feeling when I am making turns while going over a bumps. There is a left hand turn on my way home that I take every day at approx 15 mph. There is a dip in the road and I can feel a weird grind kinda feeling through the gas pedal and a noise from the front right suspension. Being a brand new truck, I'm not sure what the deal is, or if I'm just overly critical.
View 4 RepliesNow down to the question in hand. I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs.. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now you say no it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
View 1 RepliesToday I noticed I have no DRL or front park lights. The rear is fine and all the turn signals work. Bulbs are good, front park fuse has 12v on both sides. Only bought this truck a few weeks ago and I am pretty sure they worked then. Hand brake cables aren't adjusted good, the pedal goes to the floor and the park brake just barely grabs. I haven't checked the switch on that system yet but I thought the parks would still work just not the drl's.
Both side are gone,any thoughts?I also notice that the interior fuse box has an opening for another plug that looks the same as the door wiring plug on the fuse diagram it says body/12 way/brown with body being on top and the rest following under it. Is this supposed to have a plug in there?all the pins are in the fuse box for another plug,wouldn't think they would have the pins sticking out if nothing went in it, would be easy to short on something.
I just recently did some work on the front end of my 2001 Silverado 2500HD (Replaced hub bearing assy, rotor and pads), and while working on the front end happen to notice something I need some guidance on. I happen to notice the bump stops are basically crushed as if the vehicle just sits on them all the time. Would it be worth it to replace these and would they just get crushed again, and further, should I adjust the torsion bars a bit to lift the front end up off of these?
I don't want obtain any huge lifts, just want to get off the bumps and maybe improve the ride a little bit in the process. I also did have a bad hub bearing on the drivers side and after seeing this bump stop wondering if that might be why.
I picked up a very clean 2008 Silverado 2500 HD. W/60K miles. The vehicle has been very well cared for as I know the orignal owner. I have zero complaints with the truck other than an annoying front end clunking. Its very reminiscent to the intermediate shaft issues of my 2003 2500HD.
Basically when hitting very small road imperfections, I can feel/hear a clunking in the front suspension. I can also duplicate the issue by rocking the truck left to right with the steering wheel while going 20-30MPH. I figured, stabilizer links. I put the truck up in the air, & can't find a thing wrong. Links are tight as well as the ball joints & tie rod ends. Were these trucks know for a common clunk like this.
I have a vibration when i take a right corner above 35 mph. Its coming from the front left wheel area. The brakes and rotors look fine. The ABS light cuts on and off sometimes also.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Silverado 1500 Z-71. In 4 wheel drive, I can hear a humming/rubbing noise from the front end. Not real loud, but enough to get my attention. It happens at around 25 mph, and just as I'm coming to a stop. This is on the street.....going straight, not while turning. I only engage the 4 HI during street driving on a straight line drive just to "exercise" the gears and transfer case. I don't notice it on the dirt 'cause of trial noise levels. All fluid levels are normal in transfer case and axles. How much noise is normal during 4 wheel drive operations?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 1500 Silverado z71 that has started producing a squalling noise in the front pass side when hitting decent bumps during hunting season. This noise can also be reproduced when bouncing the pass front side. It has 99,000 miles. I'm assuming this is the front pass. shock. The truck came with Black and Red shocks. What brand is this? Also, from what I have read Blistens are most peoples replacement choice. I see they make a HD (4600) model and a (5100) model. My ride is stock height. If this is the problem and what brand/model to replace with? Doesn't Z71's have gas shocks and would this influence which brand to use?
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