Silverado :: Ice Forming Around The Blower Fan
Mar 25, 2014
1999 silverado 2500 6.0
This winter I have had problems with ice forming around the blower fan not allowing it to spin causing the resistor to burn out. I was thinking it's the fresh air vent not closing allowing some melted snow to drip down is this possible.
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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I was changing my oil today in my GLI and I noticed a small wet spot forming when I had my car jacked up. This is the first spot that I took notice too, and since I had my car jacked up. Its seems to be a clear liquid at the junction point where the two hoses are zip tied together.
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I have a 2011 FX4 F-150. My truck is parked in a garage at night, but obviously sits outside during the day while I'm at work. Almost every single day when it gets cold outside (probably 30 degrees or less), I climb into my truck late in the afternoon and the front brakes shutter like there's ice formation on the rotors. You can actually feel (in the pedal) and hear the rotation of that presumptive "ice" turn on the rotor and touch the pads. It usually "burns" off in just a few hundred feet, and the rest of the drive home is perfect.
BUT, sometimes that shutter is so bad that it sets off all the "check brakes", etc. type warnings on the dash. And I usually have to shut the truck off and back on to get those warnings to stop. Again, it's definitely related to the cold and there's something on the rotors or pads up front causing it. It apparently melts off almost immediately, but not before I have to use the brakes a couple of times just to get out of the parking lot, and it NEVER happens in warmer weather. The pads and rotors up front are new with lots of wear life left on them, and they are OEM Motorcraft pads.
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I noticed one day when it was really cold and raining. My rear window had a lot of water droplet forming. It was odd that I tried to use my rear wiper and the water wasn't wiping away. I opened my trunk and to my surprise a lot of condensation has formed into water droplets on the window. It makes sense now why my cargo cover has water spots on it. I know my trunk doesn't leak cause I washed my car multiple times and no water has leaked. I have never seen condensation form so much on the inside of a window. Is this normal?
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Recently my father bought a 2007 Ford Ranger from a dealership. I have only noticed the other day that the bottom of the door is forming rust. What is the easiest way to go about fixing this.
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The car is a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD. The blower for the heater wasn't working this morning. When I left work it was blowing a little but not as high as it should on full.
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I have a 99' silverado and last night the ABS light came on and will not go out. Also the emergency brake is way out of adjustment. I can put the emergency brake on and it goes to the floor, however it doesn't really hold. I'm really concerned about the ABS light.
It is a 1500 5.3liter ....
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I have a 00 Silverado 1500 Z71 249,000 miles. I can't get my tailgate down. When I pull the handle I can hear it click but it only moves a fraction and will not open. I don't think the latches are releasing all the way. How to fix this?
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Is there a difference between jc4 and jh2 brake codes?
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'07 Silverado with 38k (maybe I don't drive it enough). Recent problem when approaching a stop where the ABS appears to engage. Pulse is felt in the pedal and it obviously increases the stopping distance. Does this about 40% of all stops and between 5-10mph approaching the stop.
Haven't rear ended anyone yet, but on dry 100 degree Detroit pavement, I wouldn't think the ABS would be engaging prematurely.
No error codes with a OBDII scanner and the brakes appear to operate and are otherwise smooth. And I flush my brake fluid annually.
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drl headlights always burn instead of running lights when the truck is started. How can I correct it?
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I have a 1999 Silverado. I have noticed the AC stays on even if the light is off. Is this normal?
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It looks to me the tranny cooler is leaking oil. That's what I am assuming is leaking its on the drivers side in front of radiator. Its not antifreeze.
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I don't know what would be considered a normal amount of oil to be used between changes but my 08 w/5.3l seems to be going through too much. Since I've had the truck,about 7.5 months, I've changed to oil once converting it over to Amsoil. When I changed it I noticed the level was lower than what I expected on the dipstick, like 2 quarts low and the oil life meter is showing it's almost time for another change but I had to add a quart about 3 weeks ago because it was down.
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I have replaced my oil pan gasket with a felpro. I had oil leaking from the top of the oil filter. This oil pan has the filter going through it. I have replace the oil cooler cap and gasket and finally replaced the oil pan gasket. It worked. I do no have any leaks from above the filter. But I am leaking from inside the bell housing. It is still coming from the oil pan and nowhere else. (I have dye in the oils and can see it leaking)
SO I went back to the Haynes to recheck the torque settings. I originally torqued all of the bolts for 89 inch lbs Per the haynes manual)
here is what it says:
oil pan bolts:
step one (to engine and front cover)............89 in-lbs
step two (to rear cover).............................18 foot-lbs
this step two is not too clear.....
which bolts are the bolts to the rear cover??
what I think this means is the 2 long rear bolts that go to the rear cover should be 18 foot-lbs. in the haynes manual they are bolts 13 and 14.
Is this right.....I started to do this but then stopped becuase I felt I was going to strip the bolts.
This kind of makes sense due to there are no other bolts in the middle of the rear of the pan to the block.
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I have just had my transmission rebuilt and torque converter replaced. Now the torque converter will not lock up. It turns 2700rpms @ 55 mph! The shop says it maybe my speedometer causing this because it is stuck at 20 mph. was this way before it went into the shop. I'm replacing the stepper motors next week when the parts get here.
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Today I noticed I have no DRL or front park lights. The rear is fine and all the turn signals work. Bulbs are good, front park fuse has 12v on both sides. Only bought this truck a few weeks ago and I am pretty sure they worked then. Hand brake cables aren't adjusted good, the pedal goes to the floor and the park brake just barely grabs. I haven't checked the switch on that system yet but I thought the parks would still work just not the drl's.
Both side are gone,any thoughts?I also notice that the interior fuse box has an opening for another plug that looks the same as the door wiring plug on the fuse diagram it says body/12 way/brown with body being on top and the rest following under it. Is this supposed to have a plug in there?all the pins are in the fuse box for another plug,wouldn't think they would have the pins sticking out if nothing went in it, would be easy to short on something.
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I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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A friend has a 1993 4x4 Z71 automatic that has lost 2nd gear. He has drained the fluid and it does not smell burnt and color is fine. He does notice what seems like dust in it but it has no texture when try to feel the dust. The fluid did seem to have some sludge like gunk in bottom of container He drained it into.
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I have a 1997 Siverado with a 5.7L,auto trans. The truck has 162,000 miles on it . This it the first problem to come up since buying truck a year ago. All I know about this truck is that old owner took very good care of truck and did all the maintenance every 3,000 miles . He told me that he just replaced fuel pump and battery 1 year ago.
Well I noticed that the starter was dragging so I bought a new OEM, NOT the cheap ones priced at 59.99 . WOW! what a difference,worked like new.
Well 5 days go by and everything seems fine intil driving on freeway about 65 mph my truck seems to have a slight misfire and it did throw a code .
I had the code checked and code was a misfire code. All I did was change spark plugs and clear code. Everything seems fine for about 2 days and the truck starts to feel like it misfired a few times but did not throw a code.
I park my truck over night in my driveway over night,and in the morning I go to start the truck and it just cranks, does not turn over. So I crank over and over again. After a min of cranking ,sounds like starter got jammed ,MADE A clunk noise. I did hear some small back fires in mufflers . So I let it sit for a while and got some starting fluid and sprayed into TB and put everything back together and try again,it just cranks and has small back fires in the mufflers not loud at all.
Now it seems that I may have hurt my new starter . The starter engages and just cranks the engine for 2 seconds and then sounds like the starter motor is not engaged and just spins. I take the starter off to have it tested at local auto parts store . They say starter is in good condition. Pass their test.
So I put starter back on and it does same thing. Now it looks like I have 2 problems now. Do the battery has gotten to low on amps or volts? I can hear the fuel pump come when I turn the key to the on position,and then it turns off 2 or 3 seconds later.
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