Silverado :: Headlights Would Dim A Little Bit Then Go Back To Normal
Dec 26, 2013
2004 silverado, 2wd, V6, 150,000 miles on it. New plugs and wires 2 years ago. New fuel pump and fuel filter last summer. Truck was running fine but I did notice the last couple of mornings while I was driving the headlights would dim a little bit then go back to normal. Yesterday afternoon it started like it was 15 below out. Turned over kinda slow. But it wasn't that cold out. Anyway the headlights and dash lights were really dim. I got the truck in the driveway, revved the engine and they didn't get any brighter. The truck started running ruff and eventually quit. When I tried to restart it, it just clicked. When I turned the key off the dash lights got bright again.
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A few weeks ago I took my 03 Caravan to a shop and they said my alternator was fine, but the Wal*Mart battery (which I assume is a piece of rubbish) reads a bit low. When the temperatures are about 25 Fahrenheit or below the engine will sputter a bit usually at stop lights and the headlights will dim then go back to normal brightness a few times.
Now that the temperatures are in the 40s-50s I am still having this problem, but not as pronounced and sometimes it happens rather randomly. There is now another problem to go along with it. If I have the steering wheel turned hard while backing up and am not pressing the accelerator I have almost had Edward (my name for the Caravan) stall on me instead of just sputtering. Sometimes I feel like the engine is surging a wee bit as I drive down the road if I have just let off the accelerator. In general the RPM seems a bit erratic at times.
The fuel economy is the same as ever, the belts are all new over the past year, spark plugs, and all that. Recently replaced the vacuum plugs where the cruise control would go as well.
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drl headlights always burn instead of running lights when the truck is started. How can I correct it?
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I just started to notice that the head lights no longer turn on when it gets dark, they are on all the time. Where is the sensor that I need to replace. Is it the black domed piece in the center of the dash board. Which is near the heat vent. I also need the part number so that I can order the part and get it replaced.
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4.8 liter v8. On my drive to work this morning the headlights and the cluster light shut off and the security light illuminated and has been on ever since . The truck will crank and run fine I have brake lights and turn signals and reverse lights. I have read that this problem can usually be traced back to the body control module. I located the TBC fuse under the hood and it was blown. so I replaced it with another 10 amp fuse and it blew immediately after I inserted it. So I am thinking if I am able to rule out a ground or bare wire somewhere then the module itself may just have to be replaced.
The next question I have is due to the security light staying on in the cluster all of the time. Assuming that I can continue to drive the truck while waiting to have the BCM replaced I would only need to ensure that I did not drive after dark as I have no headlights. But I am concerned that the security light being on all of the time will drain my battery. Do the security light remaining on will in fact drain the battery? And if so, is there a way to disable the cluster and door security light so that I may continue to drive it and not have to come home and disconnect the negative cable every
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Got a weird problem with my 2008 2500HD 6.0L silverado. The problem is more noticeable within the first few miles That I am driving it. The cluster will basically power out for a split second & come back on. I notice it from the sound of the stepper motors all dropping off, then all the indicator lights illuminate & the gauges go back to the normal readings.
After this power cycle,the airbag light will be lit, & I will have to unbuckle, & rebuckle. then the airbag light will go out. I have a feeling if this isn't a common issue, its going to be a tough one to find seeing it happens so intermittently.
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Yesterday my 2010 Prius 4 (98k miles) was normal until I switched the lights from normal to hi beam and then back again. The hi bean works but the regular headlights do not. All other lights work and there are no warning lights lit. Turn signals are normal. Could this be a circuit breaker?
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I drive a 91 Silverado, v6, standard transmission.
While I was driving my truck seemed to slip out of gear and wouldn't go back in. About 10 seconds later it shut off. I was able to ride the momentum and pull over. It tries to start when I'm turning the key, but nothing. I've ruled out the distributor and the battery. All I can think now is: transmission ....
I've had problems with my distributor rotor from time to time, but no real indication that my transmission was having troubles.
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I have replaced my trans and now I have a problem with it going into fall safe mode. I was told it was to do with a sensor on the transfer case. Could this be my problem? I can turn the truck off and turn it back on and it will shift out, but when I stop and start to take off it goes back into the fall safe mode, staying in high gear.
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So my understanding is the water temp gauge at 200 degrees is pretty much spot on. The last three days I notice the temp gauge go to 200 then up to 240 which is like just one line away from the red zone. I turned on my heat full blast and was on the tollway and the temps went back to 200. The moment I got back into stop and go traffic the temp goes up again 220-240 range. Again, one line away from the red zone. No other alarms or dash messages come up. No smell of anti-freeze.
As well, the oil temp which was always at 200 has done the same thing. Running over 200 in the 220 plus range. Could this just be low anti-freeze? If so, would I not get a dash warning light?
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2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500... When slowing down for stop, when almost stopped, sometimes the brake pedal pushes back momentarily, makes a bit of a (errrr) noise, and for two or three seconds during the push back the brakes do not work. Mechanic has cleaned ABS wheel sensors. All brake pads are good. The truck computer shows all systems okay. All brake lines are new or one year old.
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I have a 2015 IS350 FSport. I drive full automatic in Sport+ mode, and I notice whenever I decelerate, the RPM would spike up around 200rpm and back to normal within second. It is consistently when the gears are changing down. Is this normal?
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I was driving at 60mph and all of sudden rpm drop to zero went back to normal rpm after 5 seconds, pulled over thinking I blew some thing every thing seem normal is this a sensor problem.
2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 2wd
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I have just bought a camry-LE 2010 that has high millage on it which is 120,000mi. when i tested the car, it seemed fine but after long drive I discoverer something. When i am driving at speed 45 - 50 and stabilize the pressing of the accelerator, I feel the car shaking for few second then return back to its normal mode . I do not why I feel something wrong with the engine.
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I finally got my 20th to run right. But now and ever since I bought it the gas needle keeps going down and back to normal every time i make a sudden move or go through a bump. What could be causing it?
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So every morning I get in my car and start it up. Usually, It starts right up, hit 1.5K RPM and then drops to almost dead (~3-400RPM) and then goes back up to a normal idle. This has always concerned me but never thought too much of it since the car goes right back to normal after a few seconds. Today the car did the normal startup and then died. What is causing this?
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I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
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I have Toyota 4runner 1996 4 cylinder. it was running good (from time to time I would lose power for 2 to 10 second than it go back to normal acceleration). I had the check engine light on for almost 8 month. last week I took the car to mechanic shop for diagnosis. the mechanic changed the spark plugs and after that the engine lost power. the car cannot go over 30 or 35 mile per hour. He changed the spark plugs and put different ones, same thing he put the old ones back same problem, he changed the wires, the fuel filter, air filter, the distributor and rotor, but still the same problem. the problem is that the check engine light is off now and there no codes.
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2013 Ford Fusion ... My cars thermostat runs normal all the time unless I go up hill. I drive into the mountains to work every day. It runs about 80% hot until I crest the mountain and then immediately cools back down to normal. Since its winter no air conditioning running but heat is on at times. Only 37000 miles on car. Automatic transmission.....
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Is normal for this navigation to automatically go back to previous screen while you are on "Radio" screen?
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I was at the bank today and when I put it in reverse to back out, the car jolted and then it rolled forward slightly while at the same time sounding like there was grinding. I immediately put it back into park and the noise stopped. Then I tried to reverse again and it started making a clicking and whining noise and wouldn't back up. It sounded like it went into gear but it won't move. I was able to get it pushed out and the drive still worked. So I was going down the road and got up to speed and the shifting was significantly delayed.
It's an automatic by the way. So I tried to take it on the highway and it won't shift out of 2nd gear or 3rd. I know for a fact that overdrive isn't working so i'm doing 50mph down the road and hitting 2500 RPM. I don't know what the deal is but for about 8 months there has been a rumbling vibration when it tries to go into overdrive and when I accelerate quickly I force it to downshift and the rumbling goes away but it still shifted into overdrive when it got passed the rumbling and vibration. It's a 1997 C1500 2WD 5.7L Silverado.
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