Silverado :: Cold Always No Matter Where The Temperature Selector Knob Turned - No Heat
Oct 20, 2011
I have a 2010 chevy silverado. No matter where I turn the blower selector switch, it always comes out of the vents. Also no matter where I turn the temperature selector knob, it's always cold. It's a company truck that I can't get fixed soon because of downtime and I'm not supposed to take it to get fixed on my own time. It was 37 degrees this morning on my drive into work.
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I have an '09 Plat SCREW with the dual zone climate control. No matter what temp I set I'm only getting cold air out of the drivers side IP & floor vents as well as the two rear facing vents in the top of the center console. Since I'm out of warranty I'm wondering if there's anything I can check or fix on my own without taking it into the dealer.
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'98 4runner, 4 banger, auto tranny. The heat/cold selector knob won't rotate but about one quarter around from cold to hot on the graduated color scale. Just won't rotate any further. How easy is it to replace this thing?
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My brother-in-law has a 97 F-150 with 4.6L that has no heat in the cab (blows cold air no matter what setting at HVAC controller). Heater core was replaced one year ago and T-stat was replaced last night. Coolant level is full and the heater hoses are BOTH hot so I believe warm coolant is flowing through the heater core. I am thinking that the HVAC controller may be at fault or maybe the mixing door in the HVAC plenum is malfunctioning. I have 97 rangers that had a broken hinge pin for the mixing door inside the plenum (a common problem with these trucks), maybe this is the same issue (I don't know). I am taking the whole dash out to see what the trouble is.
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My 2001 Accent heater only blows air to your face no matter what position the knob is in.
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I have a 1.8T with 152kmiles
Recently, both the coolant reservoir 'Y' connector and the driver side coolant flange cracked and I was shooting G12 all over the engine. I've replaced both of the parts and the coolant temp sensor with a "green top". Reservoir was refilled with the proper ratio of G12 to distilled water, ran for a bit and topped off accordingly.
This morning I started my drive to work and the engine temp was at 0 for a minute or so and started to climb slowly to 190. It stayed at 190 until I took the exit to the highway and the temp slowly started to rise while I was at 60mph. I immediately turned around and went back home with the heat cranked to high. With the heat on, the engine temp would slowly go down but then rise again if I, A. turned the heat off or B. made a hard pull up to ~55+mph.
I popped the hood and the coolant was not boiling and I couldn't see/smell/hear any leak. could this be the thermostat or is this a water pump issue? I plan on taking the thermostat off and checking the pump empellars for any shards. I'm not sure but I do believe the water pump was replaced by my parents while I was on deployment.
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I have owned my 2008 yaris sedan since new. With the temp knob turned to full cold, the air coming in (all vents I think) is always warmer than the outside air. This is annoying; I am forced to turn on the air conditioner even when the outside air is just right. I suspect that an internal flapper valve of some sort is not seating properly and is leaking warm air.
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Got a 2002 Grand Voyager (as we name it in Europe), 3,3 AWD, with AC/Heating problems.
No matter the temperature setting, from 15C to 29, it will blow with same very hot air. AC working when setting the temp to LO.
Going from LO to 15 deg C, you'll hear a "clunk", as if a door closes, and the warm air will start to flow through the vents.
Tried all the calibration possibilities known to me (ON+Recirc), and it will end with no faults, but to no good effect on the problem.
What the "ON+AC" mode does? Been in that mode - but do not know what it does, or if I'm supposed to do anything.
I haven't got a clue, other than the "thump" I hear when, possibly, the blend door closes, might be a problem, since I would expect the blend to be more gradually invoked.
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My 2009 silverado ltz is haveing heating issues. when you first start truck all work fine. After a couple min the drivers side vents loose heat and blows cold air. the heat on the pass side works fine. then the vent will change to defrost even though the display still shows its on vent. the only way to get it back is to mess with the vent control. then it will last about a min then back to defrost. at this point i just turn it off. I have already replaced the control panel to no avail ...
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On occasion the heat on my mk6 golf will start to blow cold when turned to the max click. Turning it back one click will cause it to start to blow hot again.
Friend at the dealer said he thought there was a software update for the hvac controls ....
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I have a 1990 E250 and the heat does not blow. I have only had the van a year and it somewhat worked when I got it, but at the end of least winter It stopped blowing. It does not matter what setting I have it on low or high. if I turn the defrost on and put my hand on the dash I can feel warm air but it does not blow. It is the same for the vent, I can feel warm air coming out but does not blow. Sometimes if I hit a bump it seems like it will blow a bit harder but not like it should. My question is, should I just replace the blower motor, or is there something else I should check first?
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I have been having a problem with my 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4. It started about 2 months ago. I was in traffic (truck hadn't even been on for 15 minutes). The temp gauge spiked, so I pulled over and turned the truck off. I turned the ignition on and the gauge was normal so I started it and all was fine.
Fast forward a little and every so often about every 3 weeks it would overflow (coolant) but not get to the point that it would overheat. I changed the thermostat and all seemed good to go. Fast forward to yesterday morning. Got in the truck and left to go hunting, and I didn't even make it 10 minutes down the road when I turned the heat on and it blew cold.
I started to see the gauge creep up so I pulled over and shut it down. Upper hose was cold, lower is cold and both heater hoses are cold. After some time of waiting, I started it but the gauge kept creeping up and no heat, so I kept shutting it down. After about 5x of this, the heat worked and the upper hose got hot and all was right with the world. SO I drove it home. Coolant is new, flushed about a month ago and was running great since then. Thermostat is new. Do I have a blockage somewhere? Water pump bad?
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I have an old base model 2001 Silverado, so manual everything. Here's my problem-- the air direction control knob (feet, defrost, face, etc.) is stuck on defrost. Literally stuck. Obviously, the knob attaches to and is supposed to turn a metal rod that then changes the direction of the air flow, but the rod will not turn at all...I even detached the knob and tried to turn it with a pliers! The climate control and fan speed knobs both work. What might be causing this?
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In my 2004 Camry the lights for the gear shift selector and fan speed and temperature dial are out. Is this a common light source or fuse that controls these lights?
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Since we have had vehicle, it has had fault whereby whenever we turn engine off, the key will not come out of lock and display says "engage Park" even though we already have.... Only solution is to turn ignition back on and then off again, and then key comes out. Dealer has had one go at it, but no success, due to go for another try next week.
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I have an 08 camry v6, from time to time i've noticed when i turn the temp knob from cool to hot it would blow cool. Now it's happening all the time no heat at all just blows cool air when heat is on in all modes.
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I bought a 2015 Camry LE, with manual AC.
I just noticed that every time I turn the temperature knob, there is a small buzz/hiss noise come from the center console. the more you turn the knob, the noise last longer, however, the sound disappear soon once you stop turning the knob.I tested this when the car is parked with power on but engine is not running, this noise is also noticeable in City drive if you audio is off.
I did some research and know that it is from the Heat blend door actuator/Air mix door motor. When you change the temperature, the motor is going to change the direction of the heat blend door.
My questions is : Is this noise noticeable on every Camry?
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Honda Accord Special Edition - 72,000 mi.,4 cyl. auto - When I turn the control knob on to use fan or is it called the blower for A/C or heater nothing comes on. When I turn the control knob on with the cold motor not running and A/C button engaged (green light on) I hear the two fans under the hood come on for about 10 seconds and then shut off. Not sure if that is normal or it indicates something. I checked some of the fuses under the hood and under the dash. Could not find any that were bad.
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After reading the book, I'm afraid I still don't understand. When the hubs are in AUTO, & the shift on the fly selector is turned to 4X4 high, or 4X4 low, is the truck in 4 wheel drive. What happened to free or lock.
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I have a 2011 Prius Four with JBL/navi package. When I go to turn the volume knob up or down the navi screen pops open as if I were going to eject or insert a cd. Only sometimes will it close back up when I press the eject/close button otherwise I have to twist the volume knob back and fourth until it randomly closes. THEN, when I set FM/AM station presets, power off the car, power car back on, the screen shows "loading" and everything resets except for the Bluetooth phone settings. Is there any firmware update I need to install via usb?
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I own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
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