Silverado :: Cluster Power Out For A Split Second And Come Back On
Apr 13, 2013
Got a weird problem with my 2008 2500HD 6.0L silverado. The problem is more noticeable within the first few miles That I am driving it. The cluster will basically power out for a split second & come back on. I notice it from the sound of the stepper motors all dropping off, then all the indicator lights illuminate & the gauges go back to the normal readings.
After this power cycle,the airbag light will be lit, & I will have to unbuckle, & rebuckle. then the airbag light will go out. I have a feeling if this isn't a common issue, its going to be a tough one to find seeing it happens so intermittently.
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I have a 1990 suburban that has had a rebuilt x-mission about 50,000 miles ago. At this time when I drive there is a hesitation, split second, when running on flat road. It happens when going up a hill, too.My mechanic said change the: plug wires, then the plugs and rotor. No difference.
I think the thing is dropping out of OD for a split second and then going back in. If I drive in 3rd, I don't think it is happening. Isn't there a relay or solenoid that controls this function?
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My 6speed 05 mk4 gli is acting up!
The issue: when I'm driving (not every time) and letting the car coast to a stop after going about 30+mph lightly applying breaks, the car seems to die for a split second and come back to life. My radio turns off(restarts) headlights dim, heater fans die out. Rpms dip very low; but the car never totally dies or stalls.
I had my plugs changed recently thinking that was the the issue, but didn't work. Also my car is apr chipped. Another symptom is it idles pretty rough and lastly. Occasionally the car makes a funny high tuned sound that matches the rpm (ie revs up higher noise) ....
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The instrument cluster in my 2000 Silverado 1500 recently stopped working. All the gauges are flush to the left, except for the oil and battery which stay about in the middle. I ordered a different cluster online and went to install it today, finding that it still doesnt work. Except in this one everything aside from battery and oil are flush to the right. What to try next or am I going to need to take it in?
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I have a 99 silverado, 5.3l Z71. This morning got in my truck, it started up fine, I then noticed instrument cluster and radio lights were flickering/surging but voltage was at 14v. Put it in reverse and the voltage dopped to about 12/13v like it was about to die gave it gas and it shot back up to normal. So I'm driving and everything electrical goes out and comes back on. Battery flashes, security light flashes, abs brakes come on and off, gauges fluctuate. And noticed it was doing it every 4 seconds. Radio doesnt stay on after i turn the truck off either as it normally does. Doesn't do any of that while sitting idle only while driving and my truck never actually stops running which doesn't make me think alternator is going bad.
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2011 Silverado instrument panel dimmer won't reduce below about (subjectively) 40% intensity and cannot be turned off - still way to bright for old eyes on dark mountain roads. Dealer says its characteristic of the model and has no suggestions. Scan-tool results for dimmer potentiometer output reads 2.7 volts (9%) at minimum rotation, and 3 volts (100%) at max intensity. Scan-tool results for LED PWM drive signal reads 0% at minimum and 100% at max. The pulse width modulator (PWM) appears to be an imbedded component of the body control module (BCM) so is not accessible. The dimmer potentiometer is a component part of the headlights combo switch so is likewise not directly accessible.
Since I can't get to the potentiometer voltage divider circuit, if I add a fixed resistor to the output leg of the potentiometer and reduce the dimmer signal voltage by another 0.1 volt (to 2.6 volts out to BCM/PWM) will I set a BCM DTC or raise the voltage on the LED drive pulse to a damaging level? Alternatively, if I place a spst switch in the dimmer output signal, will the PWM simply switch off, or try to further decrease the drive pulse width? Last shot-in-the-dark question before I drag a scope out and start tapping into wires, how to find out what IC chip is used in the PWM?
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Vehicle: 1983 chevy c10
Here's the problem, when the high beams are on the dash cluster lights work fine,but when I turn the high beams off the dash cluster lights go off.Im going to buy a new high beam switch but what else might cause this problem?The truck has one of those metal button high beam switches that is mounted on the floor.
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2011 6.7 with 3.55 gearing. Just got the truck. And it seems when its cold the truck will rev high in 3rd gear and then sort of fall into 4th gear sort of losing power for a split second. If I gas it hard, its not as bad. Usually only happens like I said when its cold. Check the trans fluid its full and looks clean. My guess is some sort of sensor or the computer???
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2004 silverado, 2wd, V6, 150,000 miles on it. New plugs and wires 2 years ago. New fuel pump and fuel filter last summer. Truck was running fine but I did notice the last couple of mornings while I was driving the headlights would dim a little bit then go back to normal. Yesterday afternoon it started like it was 15 below out. Turned over kinda slow. But it wasn't that cold out. Anyway the headlights and dash lights were really dim. I got the truck in the driveway, revved the engine and they didn't get any brighter. The truck started running ruff and eventually quit. When I tried to restart it, it just clicked. When I turned the key off the dash lights got bright again.
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In the past few days, I've noticed that when my headlights are on the white backlighting of the speedometer, tachometer, and other gauges in the instrument cluster fail to illuminate, however the red needles within each gauge do illuminate properly. Furthermore, the rheostat adjustment does successfully brighten and dim the red needles, but the faces of the gauges remain dark. I checked fuses 23 and 27 and both are fine.
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I drive a 91 Silverado, v6, standard transmission.
While I was driving my truck seemed to slip out of gear and wouldn't go back in. About 10 seconds later it shut off. I was able to ride the momentum and pull over. It tries to start when I'm turning the key, but nothing. I've ruled out the distributor and the battery. All I can think now is: transmission ....
I've had problems with my distributor rotor from time to time, but no real indication that my transmission was having troubles.
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I have replaced my trans and now I have a problem with it going into fall safe mode. I was told it was to do with a sensor on the transfer case. Could this be my problem? I can turn the truck off and turn it back on and it will shift out, but when I stop and start to take off it goes back into the fall safe mode, staying in high gear.
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My 2006 F150 instrument cluster, including the radio, will randomly go out while driving (although the LED display on the radio will come on if the menu button is pressed indicating that there is power). Everything will come back on within a few seconds to a few minutes. You can get everything to come back on immediately by pressing the odometer reset button. If power is being lost, why does the odometer reset button correct the issue?
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I have 2009 Sante Fe limited and had experienced a loud pop / power surge while waiting in the car. This pop / surge was a split second where a saw the dash lights and my iPod turn off and on.
Is this something that I should be concerned about? This is the second time that this has happened in the 5 years that I have owned this car. First time happened when I was driving home a couple of years ago.
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2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500... When slowing down for stop, when almost stopped, sometimes the brake pedal pushes back momentarily, makes a bit of a (errrr) noise, and for two or three seconds during the push back the brakes do not work. Mechanic has cleaned ABS wheel sensors. All brake pads are good. The truck computer shows all systems okay. All brake lines are new or one year old.
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I just passed 3k miles on the OD. Lately, when I'm driving, I'll randomly feel the engine lose power for a split second. It just cuts out and then comes right back. Sometimes it's fairly quick, others it's very noticeable. I buy fuel from good gas stations, and the dealership couldn't find anything and also said they'd never heard of this issue.
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I drove my 2012 Sonata GLS to work, when I left work the car lit up for a split second and then died. I thought the battery was the problem, swapped it out with a new one, nothing. Main fuse is good and all the fuses in the engine compartment are fine. Oddly the interior fuse box is not receiving power at all. Multi-meter shows life in the battery and engine fuses. There are no working lights of any kind, nothing happens when I turn the key, Key FOB not working, the whole nine yards.
The car has 63,000 miles on it, I purchased it 4 months ago from a dealership, declining bumper to bumper warranty. My sales rep and the warranty manager reassured me the 5 year, 100k powertrain would be transferred to me, and it wasn't. I'm currently fighting with the dealership over them covering it, but that's a whole other story.
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I was at the bank today and when I put it in reverse to back out, the car jolted and then it rolled forward slightly while at the same time sounding like there was grinding. I immediately put it back into park and the noise stopped. Then I tried to reverse again and it started making a clicking and whining noise and wouldn't back up. It sounded like it went into gear but it won't move. I was able to get it pushed out and the drive still worked. So I was going down the road and got up to speed and the shifting was significantly delayed.
It's an automatic by the way. So I tried to take it on the highway and it won't shift out of 2nd gear or 3rd. I know for a fact that overdrive isn't working so i'm doing 50mph down the road and hitting 2500 RPM. I don't know what the deal is but for about 8 months there has been a rumbling vibration when it tries to go into overdrive and when I accelerate quickly I force it to downshift and the rumbling goes away but it still shifted into overdrive when it got passed the rumbling and vibration. It's a 1997 C1500 2WD 5.7L Silverado.
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Recently I had a radiator hose split while traveling. The EOT got up to 250 degrees before I could pull over and stop the truck. I flushed the cooling system with water, replaced the thermostat, and added Ford Gold coolant as per the recommendations in the Tech folder. My oil temps are higher now than prior to this incident. Unloaded on a flat road my deltas are about 10 to 12 degrees @ 60 mph.
My water temp will stay around 190 to 195 degrees while my EOT have reached 212-215. I pulled a small utility trailer and saw a delta of 17 degrees this was at about 75 mph. Typically unloaded I would only see a delta of about 8 degrees and this was at 80mph. My question is do you think a EOT of 250 would burn the oil, I had Shell Rotella T5 5W40 in the engine. Would it be possible that the oil cooler is partially plugged from this temp?
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This truck isn't mine but it's an 05 F250 automatic. We just did oil cooler, STC, standpipes, dummy plugs, EGR delete, and cleaned the turbo. Truck starts perfectly and runs great 99% of the time. But after a high load throttle situation right when you let off the throttle the engine sounds and feels like it cuts out for a split second, then it comes back and everything is fine. It does it with stock tunes but it is more noticeable with his SCT tunes loaded. There are no codes being set. The weird thing is if your drive it relatively easily it never does it, and it never does it while it is actually under high load, at WOT it pulls like crazy until you let off a bit and then it happens.. It also doesn't do it every time but it is fairly often. It has edge insight with fuel pressure monitoring added, ICP doesn't drop out and neither does fuel pressure. What could cause it to do that?
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The night temperture was only about 37 degrees. But every morning my 2000 F-350 7.3 crew cab 188,000 on it would not start. The first try there would be a split second where the motor would fire, but that would be it. I had to plug the engine block heater into my generator for at least an hour before it would start. I don't see how all the glow plugs could be bad at once??
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