Silverado :: ABS Light Comes On But Brakes Feel Fine
Sep 4, 2012
This is on my g/f's 04 silverado 2x2 started about a month ago. Light comes on after rolling a few feet and right after hearing the abs pump run for a second. Then the light pops on, but the brakes feel fine. Only thing I tried so far is to clean the ground wires under the drivers seat but it's still doing it. I know when my sensor(s) went bad on my 00 the abs pump would kick on when stopping! not fun at all, but like I said it stops fine, just the little pump hum then the light.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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red dash light comes on after 1 km, most times. dealer says abs module but no abs light or codes
brakes are fine
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1994 Chevrolet silverado 2WD 350/V8 ... I've been too focused on the loose steering and now there is a grinding noise feel on the steering wheel when I'm driving straight and above 20 mph. I jacked up the front end of the truck and after wiggling the front tires at 12:00 and 6:00, I can feel a slight movement at both front wheels. Is it a telltale sign the wheel bearings has failed. Note that I am deaf and can't hear any growling/grinding but I certainly can feel the grinding feel on my steering wheel. Wheel bearings it is?
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I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
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I just recently replaced my radiator and cold air intake. right after I did and I drove it, my car was idling high at 1.5 and the brakes feel like they are going out. I am kind of confused as to how this is even related.
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When car is standing on d, I feel like I need to press brake pad with good amount of foot force to keep it parked. If I loose tension a bit then it feels like car will go forward.
When lexus inspected a month ago they said pad was little slim but brake actuator was fine. But brake does feel squishy when parked.
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I just purchased a used 2009 tiguan with 70k KM on it and I love it. thou the brake feels a little odd and I am not sure if this is normal. the brakes have a non-linear feel to it, and it squeals a little bit at very low speed.
the brake have a step feel to it. it feels like the first 1/3 or half is really not doing much, while at a certain point it brakes hard. when I am slowly releasing the brake when trying to move very slowly, it won't move at first, then all of a sudden it kind of jumps.
is this normal? or do I need to get something checked out?
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My brakes sometimes feel like the rotors are warped. The problem is that it isn't consistent. I remember how the original rotors warped and they were crap so I put some drilled and slotted rotors on about 150,000 miles ago. Currently but not all of the time it acts like the current rotors are warped, the steering wheel will move back and forth, feel the shake in the vehicle. But today running a few errands at lunch, there was no wobble etc. I might go ahead and replace the rotors/pads but want to be sure that is the issue. Could it be the hydroboost on the 7.3? ABS?
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Occasionally for the last year when in Reverse my Prius' brakes will feel hard as rock and will only depress an inch or so. I depress the brake and within a literal inch it's solid and will not depress any more. I can still use the brake and reverse it's just jerky and awkward because I only have an inch to work with.. it's like they lock up or something.
Well today same thing happened while in reverse but instead of the car actually reversing like normal when it has this hard brake problem it actually started rolling forwards while in reverse!! it was as if it was in neutral because touching the acceleration pedal did nothing.. which made me think of neutral cause it does the same thing, but the dash read reverse... all while I'm dealing with a hard brake. I have come to overlook it because I cannot mimic it and figured it was a possible regenerative/electric braking thing and seems fairly common among people here, but today was spooky because it rolled forward out of the blue..
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Wierd new noise from my brakes - No issue when I press the pedal, and they work just fine. However just as I'm about to come to a complete stop the brakes feel like the ABS starts kicking in. I can make it not stop by lightly pumping the brakes but this can't be right. What it could be. I just had CV boot replace if that could have done something.
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I'm trying to resolve a nagging brake problem on my 98 Pathfinder. In short, braking power is weaker than it should be, but I do not have sponginess in the brake pedal. I've bled the whole system a few times, and even changed the master cylinder - to no avail.
While performing a few tests lately, I noticed the following behavior: if I drive up a steep hill and start pumping the brake pedal with the left foot while keeping the right foot on the gas (to keep moving uphill), the pedal gets progressively harder to press and braking action diminishes accordingly. If feels a bit like when you switch the engine off with the car still moving (in neutral) and try to brake: as the vacuum in the booster gets expended, the pedal gets harder and braking action diminishes dramatically.
I don't think this is related to the act of going uphill; it's just that this is the only way the engine can develop enough vacuum for the symptom to occur.
This leads me to wonder if I have a vacuum leak somewhere (either in the line or in the booster itself) that only happens at higher vacuum pressures...
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My 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
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My 98 Sunfire has a grab and release feel when applying brakes. Mechanic fixed this same problem March 2012. I was told it was warped rotors and brake pads. This worked great until four weeks ago when it started again. I find it hard to believe that rotors and pads would warp again after 7 months. Also the front brakes lock up real easy on wet surface such as a light rain. When they lock up I get a bad rattle sound under the dash. ABS light does not come on and never has. This happens all the time. Even after new pads and rotors were installed.
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I was going down the freeway at about 80mph when I had to hit the brakes pretty quick, the rear end felt like it got a little squirrly for a minute. What could I get to make this a little more stable? Rear sway bar?
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Is it possible for the IS200t brakes to malfunction? My car is only 1600 miles and the brake doesn't feel responsive/snappy. It feels like the car is very heavy to brake anywhere from 10 - 40 mph. I have to step on the brake pedal deep to feel the brakes. I don't feel that pump (I think it's called hydralics) feel when I step on the brakes. Even at 20mphs, the braking doesn't feel sensitive. Is it possible for some brake parts to break. I think one time when I was going down hill, I stepped on it really hard to stop at the bottom at the stop light and it made some weird clamping noise.
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So I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
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Okay, I never experienced this on my Prius C, but now that's I've upgraded to a 2013 Prius Plug-In, I can duplicate it:
When traveling on the highway (at like 60MPG) and I brake a little hard (but not pedal fully to the floor), I hear and feel a 'click' through the brake pedal as it slows through 25MPH. A car pulled out in my lane, and I had to brake suddenly and felt/heard this 'click' at that speed. Did some testing on an off-ramp with the same situation (50MPH - heavy breaking - feel/hear click at 25MPH).
I think this is the transition from the regen braking to the brake pads, but I'm unsure. Not sure if it's ABS either. I've looked at a ton of Gen3 braking threads here on PC, but I was unable to find my exact issue. The car only has 3000 miles on it,
Loving my upgrade so far (but having weird fueling problems - doesn't seem like I can 'fill' the tank, always lose the first 'blip' too fast), and enjoy the freedom of being able to charge for local driving.
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I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy sedan with a 2.2L engine with AWD. When I step on the brakes I hear a ratcheting type of sound and feel pulsations in the brake pedal.There is no problem with brake performance that I have noticed. We have replaced the front rotors and front brake pads.We also replaced the rear passenger side brake caliper. It still makes a loud ratchet/groaning-like sound. It makes the sound when you first start braking after starting the car and intermittently while driving. It's not constant when you step on the brakes.
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I have a 98 K1500 Z71, having trouble with a ABS brakes going off every time I come to a stop, occasionally I don't even have to push on the brake just turn a corner and they go off. The brake light or the ABS light on the dash don't light up. I have taken the speed sensors off front axles cleaned then and sanded the rust off where they mount and still the same problem. Also, in the world of OBD scan tools, I know what ABS stands for ( brakes ) but what SRS stands for?
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I have a 1999 C2500 Chevy Silverado extended cab. On some slow speed stops the ABS kicks in and makes it hard to come to a full stop scary. There are no leaks in the system. The ABS light has come on, on the dash off and on. I thought I saw a post that you can shut off the ABS system not the real fix but safer until I can figure it out.
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