Silverado :: 99 - Transmission Cooler Is Leaking Oil
May 16, 2015
It looks to me the tranny cooler is leaking oil. That's what I am assuming is leaking its on the drivers side in front of radiator. Its not antifreeze.
View 6 RepliesIt looks to me the tranny cooler is leaking oil. That's what I am assuming is leaking its on the drivers side in front of radiator. Its not antifreeze.
View 6 RepliesI have a transmission cooler attached to my transmission. The lines that connect it are leaking around the crimp fittings. I figured if i just cut the fittings off and used 3/8 fuel line, would i be ok. I am afraid that i might get some air into the lines and mess my transmission up...
View 5 RepliesTransmission oil cooler line, lower one, is leaking. I think to use pvf, black ones, brake line instead of new transmission oil cooler line. I did replaced upper one with new transmission oil cooler line before a few years and it is rusty already as those line are only zinc plated as opposed to plastified brake lines.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2001 silverado 5.3, I have a stream of transmission fluid leaking down from the top of my transmission, I cant see the top of the tranny so I don't know if its a hose or what, but oil is everywhere, what was the diagnosis. It was fine yesterday no problem, and now once i start it up about couple mins fluid just leaking.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
So my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
View 5 RepliesI bought an aerosol can of transmission flush to flush out the cooler lines in my Ranger before I put the "new" transmission in.
Well, the can says it has a 5/16" female fitting on the tube "to fit most common transmission cooler lines" but my truck has what I believe are 5/8" fittings (the tube nuts on the cooler lines were a 5/8" hex). The fitting on the can tube ALMOST threads over the flared end of the tube, but not quite (I just want it on there so stuff won't spray all over).
Went to the parts store, found an 5/8" female flare to 1/2" male flare and that was the closest I could find. I'll take it home tonight and see if it fits. They had almost nothing for a 5/16" flare.
I have been spending a lot of time and money on creating my dream car. I like to go fast so there for I bought a car with a turbo. The thing about turbos is that they also make bigger ones. And so I proceed in upgrading the necessary components to support such an endeavor while simultaneously catching fire to my wallet. No regrets. So far.
Turbo was installed along with the reprogrammed ecu and upgraded fuel injectors come to find out my car is running extremely rich. After trouble shooting and looking back on the parameters the ecu was set we figured out the fuel injectors we installed were too big. Fixed that checked for boost leaks. Car is running much better. Until right before I get home as I'm pulling up to my house I suddenly heard a pop and I've lost boost. Look under the hood and find the vacuum hose has bursted off the solenoid nipple going to the waste gate. Also my turbo pressure blow off valve located on the charge pipe entering the throttle body has apparently been shooting oil as it releases said pressure which has shot out between the crack of my hood onto the top of my hood and my front bumper.
I take off the charge pipes from my intercooler and find out that there is oil, more than usual collected all throughout the charge system coming from the turbo. The is also oil coming from the breather and ventilation system and the breather valve on the waste gate solenoid. Hoping it is not a oil seal leak on my new turbo I then change out my PVC valve and clean up as much oil as I can. I have just fixed the vacuum line and replace the PVC valve and started the car to find there's still oil going through the system.
Could this just between the remaining oil still trapped in the system and that I have found the source of the leak? Or could this truly be a sealant leak in the turbo charger which i'm still wavering on whether or not it is possible considering from what I understand if there was a leak in the seal it would run through oil courts at a time leaving my engine to start and then lock up. Or could there be something internally wrong with my engine such as something wrong with the camshaft? I'm pretty sure my catalytic converter is clogged because all of the carbon building up from it running so rich and probably from all the oil coming out of it possibly. I don't know how worried I really should be.
I've got 149,xxx miles on my Golf TDI. Took it by a local shop for a routine oil change and since then, it's just been puking oil from the oil cooler. I took it back to the shop and the mechanic even pointed that out. Some red flags here; Timing is too shady. This happened literally the day after the oil change. He also told me that he won't use customer-supplied parts for liability reasons. Seems believable enough, but why would this part just choose to go wrong now?
This is my first time at this shop too and I've never really dealt with "bad mechanics" before but something about this isn't sitting right with me, and I'm not sure how to handle my next step properly. So what would cause an engine oil cooler to leak profusely just after an oil change?
This line is rusted out on my V10 and leaking fluid.
How hard/expensive is this to fix?
I'm in the middle of doing my exhaust manifolds right now, so I'm hoping it's a simple bolt-on fix.
I picked up this 2004 Chevy Venture for my daughter and it has a power steering fluid leak coming out of the power steering cooler line that runs along the frame in front. I know that the procedure to replace this line calls for disconnecting the intermediate shaft of the steering and lowering the subframe to gain access to the line connections on the rack. My question is, is it possible to replace that line without lowering the subframe? I ordered the new line and it's on its way. I wanna do the job right.
View 3 RepliesSo I'm about to do the oil and EGR coolers on my 6.0. At one point, or currently, my EGR cooler was leaking, so I've got that gooey residue in the intake, at least around the EGR valve. No dry carbon residue. I wondering what is the best way to clean the intake out, if at all. I have to assume there's some clogging in there, especially since I've had the P0401 code for a while. I just wanted to get this done right once, so I'm not coming back to it again any time soon....
View 5 RepliesI am experiencing leaking cooler lines at the turbo. I thought it was only the line coming from the side of the turbo, but it looks like it could be the one going into the top. Can I safely remove the line from the front of the engine without interfering with the other metal lines directly in front of it. See the pic. This is the front of the engine under the turbo.
Also, the fitting in the pictures is not leaking. Can I replace the metal line without replacing the threaded connector going into the engine or does it have to be replaced with the line? I already have parts BC3Z-6A968-C and BC3Z-9U469-A for the line coming out of the side. What is the part #s for the other line pictured?
I have 2002 F150 5.4L gas 4X4 Lariat FX4. Last winter when it got to -30C here in Manitoba one of the lines near the power steering cooler began to leak. I had just bought this truck and upon investigating found that the original line had been replaced and reattached with hose clamps. I had this "farmer fix" redone but then this winter when it hit -30C it blew apart. Obviously something happened to this line before I got it, so I am curious if there is an issue with these power steering cooler lines when it gets really cold. Should I just get factory lines installed and hope for the best?
View 3 RepliesI decided to install a trans cooler since I was servicing the trans and got the pan dropped anyway. But when I cracked open the trans cooler connector(which is totally unnecessary and should be avoided completed), I noticed that I broke the trans cooler connector fitting to the radiator and now the coolant leaks badly from around the fitting. What are my options other than replacing the radiator? Would some liquid metal treatment do the magic? Or is there a way to remove and replace the fitting(I am not sure this would be possible since it looked like the fitting was welded to the radiator)?
View 5 RepliesI've had my early 99 f350 7.3L for a lil while now. Starting to see few problems surfacing. while doing my weekly fluid levels found oil in coolant and after looking around found oil covering bottom of driver side engine. As far as i can see it looks like oil cooler leaking from front side.. Should i just replace oil cooler or rebuild?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Silverado with the 5.3L V8, 138K miles, it never leaked oil until an oil change a few months ago, it started leaking right after the change, like night and day. There is nothing wrong with the filter I have removed it and tried a new one. I have replaced the valve cover gaskets and still have a leak. I have read where the 5.3 Vortec has inherent problems with oil pan and rear main seal gaskets. The oil is dripping on both sides of the oil pan toward the drain plug and at the seam between the tranny bell housing and rear of motor block, so it's not confined to just one side of the pan.
View 2 RepliesSo I rebuilt my transmission earlier this year and its been working great, but I've yet to install a better cooler on it. I do quite a bit of towing with it, most of which is my boat. I've searched a lot on the forum here but cant decide on how to set up a better trans cooler.
I want a cooler that's going to handle cooling my trans on steep hills and such, but I don't want to completely cover my a/c condenser (I really like cold a/c ).
I've considered adding a couple of the frame mount coolers in-line and keep the factory cooler, I'm just not sure how well it would work.
2001 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3 L engine and a leaking head gasket that was getting worse (at 217,000 miles). Car has rusted body (upstate NY), so not going to spend too much for repairs. Decided to try one of those "magic elixors" in a bottle. Went for the Bars Leaks head gasket repair stuff - Followed directions, etc (put it into the top radiator tube, NOT the overflow bottle). The stuff had little strings of copper-looking stuff floating in it. It worked. After a little more loss of coolant, the coolant loss has finally stopped. Amazing that something like this really worked.
View 7 RepliesWhat is the location of the Transmission Cooler Line? Is it by the radiator?
View 12 RepliesI am adding an auxiliary trans fluid cooler to my C-6 in my F-250. Should the fluid route thru the aux cooler first then the stock rad cooler, or thru radiator cooler to aux cooler? Which stock hard line is fluid FROM the C-6 (HOT), and which is the return line (cold)?
Vehicle is 78 F-250 4x4 crewcab, 400/C-6