Silverado :: 98 5.7 Chevy Truck Not Starting
Aug 14, 2013
I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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I installed a new motor in a 1990 chevy Silverado about 5 months ago. every time i start it there is a loud clunky noise which goes away after about 1 or 2 minutes.I took apart the exhaust.. why does #2 cylinder have rust on the exhaust port not black soot?
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I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
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I have a 98 Chevy truck with a 4L60E. It has no second gear. I was sitting in park for about 10 minutes with the engine running, then put it in drive and it never shifted into second. It felt like it went straight to 3rd. I played with it manually until I figured out I had reverse, 1st, 3rd, 4th and torque converter lockup, just no second gear. My acceleration rate was medium and when I reach about 27-28 mph it would shift from 1st into 3rd. It has 230K on it so I rebuilt it with all the typical parts - frictions, steels, band, sun shell etc., still no second. I then pulled the pan back off and replaced the spacer plate and put in a shift kit. While I had it down I put a corvette servo in and did an air check. It worked fine. I could feel the band tighten.
Both the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids checked good at 23 ohms. I swapped their positions to see if it would make a difference. I also checked to make sure the 1-2 accumulator piston wasn't stuck in its bore, the spring was new from the shift kit. It was fine. Put it back together...still no second gear. When I originally pulled the pan off for the rebuild, the pan was free of any debris and was very clean. I then drove it a couple of miles to a local transmission shop. They put their scan tool on it and drove it around the block. There were no codes and the ECM was calling for second gear. It doesn't sound mechanical since almost all the parts have been replaced, rebuilt or inspected that affect the 1-2 shift. It sounds electrical. Is there anything I have missed?
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I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
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I have an 88 chevy K-1500 4x4 5.7L ... My truck lacks serious power, it idles rough, sometimes wont idle at all, sometimes Truck Idles fine. I have adjusted the timing to tdc, and 4 deg. both ways still runs like crap.. Sometimes I can keep it idleing, put it in rev. or drive, and it will die. I have no power and if I put my foot in it too much it will backfire. but will only backfires when in gear and press on the gas to put a load on the motor. I have replaced the: tps, map, egr, pcv, distributor, cap, ignition coil, rotor, plugs, wires, timing chain, both sprockets cam and crank, checked all hoses for leaks, replaced the injectors, the O2 sensor and have changed the intake gaskets. And am still having no luck...... I am bout to just drop an M80 in the gas tank and watch her burn..
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2006 chevy 4.3 v6 5 speed manual trans. Very hard to shift into and out of gear , the truck has about 80,000 miles on it , its had the new trans fluid gm replaced for smoother shifting. If you hold the clutch pedal down on the floor hard it works fine. It all most like the pedal it screwed up. The pedal ass is plastic junk, I am thinking the pedal is bended. The clutch does not slip and I tried bleeding the clutch master cylinder and there are no leaks anywhere !
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My 2002 4.8L Silverado recently started having this intermittent starting problem.
A few days ago I got in to start it, turned the key and nothing happened. Lights, radio and power locks all were working fine but engine would not crank or turn over. Turned the key off and on a few times and then the truck started fine.
It started fine for about 3 days. Then got in to start it the next day and this happened again. Turn the key and nothing. Lights, power locks, radio all working ok. Turned the key off and on multiple times but still nothing. So I cleaned the battery cable connections and fully charged the battery, even though it checked out ok. Tried it again and same thing was happening.
This time I looked at the ignition and starting relays under the hood in the electrical box. I swapped a few of them around, tried to start it each time and still nothing.
So I had the vehicle towed to the dealership to be checked. The next day the service man calls me to tell me when they went to check it, the truck is starting fine.
I am not sure if this is a starter problem, ignition switch problem or maybe the computer. The thing is, I can't drive it like this because it is no longer reliable.
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The cruise control on my 2002 Chevy 1/2 ton Silverado doesn't work. Went to boneyard and bought a module but it didn't fix my issue. Borrowed a multimeter and tested the cruise control module plugin. The only pin that came up with a incorrect reading was the first brake test. It's suppose to have 12 volts with brake pedal up but showed about 30, so I changed the brake light switch. Still no cruise control.
Since I have a high reading on the brake pin, do you think I have a wire issue there or would my problem be in the multi switch wires by the steering wheel?
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On my 1999 Chevy Silverado Z71, a gurgling water sound is present everytime I accelerate. Are there any other Chevy owners that have had this same problem? If so, how was it resolved?
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The issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado, 350, 2WD. It has a 4L60E transmission. I just started having a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd. When accelerating the RPM's go way up and won't shift until I let off the throttle. Then it shifts into all other gears normally.
If I accelerate slowly. it will shift into 2nd at about 16 MPH. It will then shift into all other gears normally. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, flushed the transmission and replaced the filter and fluid. This made know change in performance.
I am now suspecting that it might be the 1-2 shift solenoid. The check engine light is not on and everything else works fine.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado rwd automatic 350 5.7. It died on me on the way to work this morning. It slowly lost power and acceleration. The lights and radio all worked. When I tried to restart, it tried to start but then just cranked like it had no fuel or spark.
I had it towed home and checked the following things. I removed the fuel filter, it is clear. I verified that the fuel pump was working by turn the key to the on position while the filter was off. Good stream of fuel. I verified that there was fuel to the TBI. Good spray while cranking. I verified that there was spark by pulling a plug out, connecting to the wire and cranking the engine. Spark seemed weak but there was spark. The front plugs were dry, but the rear plugs, especially #8 was very wet. I verified the timing by pulling the #1 plug, removing the distributor cap and checked the rotor position. I bumped the engine to get the #1 piston to the top of the cylinder and the rotor was point directly at the #1 plug wire. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are only 1 month old.
I also tried to check the ignition coil by disconnecting the coil wire from coil, and slid the boot back to expose the contact. I held it just of the coil while the engine was cranked, but did not actually see a spark at the coil. I did not hear any arcing. I pulled another plug and checked for spark. Again i had spark. Just seems weak to me. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get a new coil.
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I picked up a very clean 2008 Silverado 2500 HD. W/60K miles. The vehicle has been very well cared for as I know the orignal owner. I have zero complaints with the truck other than an annoying front end clunking. Its very reminiscent to the intermediate shaft issues of my 2003 2500HD.
Basically when hitting very small road imperfections, I can feel/hear a clunking in the front suspension. I can also duplicate the issue by rocking the truck left to right with the steering wheel while going 20-30MPH. I figured, stabilizer links. I put the truck up in the air, & can't find a thing wrong. Links are tight as well as the ball joints & tie rod ends. Were these trucks know for a common clunk like this.
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My dad's 1996 Chevy Silverado will not shift into hi gear. The truck starts up fine and he can drive it but for some reason it won't shift into hi gear. Him and I are clueless as to why it won't. He has a 1996 Chevy Silverado, 6.5 liter V-8 automatic transmission, and its a diesel. We really want to fix the truck ourselves so we are trying to avoid taking it to a shop.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. Two nights in less than a week, my horn has went off in alarm mode. Is there another reason for this other than an attempted jimmying of the lock? I live in a decent neighborhood with lots of pole lighting. Someone told me the keyfob battery was dying but I don't have the fob.
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I have a '99 Silverado 1500 with a 4.3L V-6 amd 188,000. It picked up a problem recently that's been stumping me. Occassionally, and for no reason I can sort out, it starts to shimmy badly. This behavior has come about at several speeds. Sometimes just cruising down the road at 35-45 it starts to shimmy and wobble and the steering wheel shakes as if a wheel is horribly out of balance. Other times this occurs at highway speeds - it's noticeable and alarming. The problem can last a long while; othertimes the symptoms disappear in a few seconds. The first time it happened I thought I had a flat or was about to lose a wheel - this is not a subtle problem.
I've checked several things and came up empty. No delamination in the tires and nothing out of round, but just to be sure I had the wheels balanced and rotated - the balance was spot on when checked. Alignment is good. Did those things, but the symptoms continued. The vehicle is high mileage so I put in on the lift and checked the front-end. The steering rack has a very slight amount of play and the hub bearings have a very small amount of play too - I'll get after those, but they're not causing this intermittent problem. Everything else is tight. Shocks are fine, brakes are fine, I checked the rear-end as well - everything is straight and true. Air pressure is set correctly. I checked the driveshaft for runout and play - that's not the problem. The truck has never been in an accident and nothing seems misaligned.
The truck drives like a new truck most of the time, then suddenly, on a smooth road, it starts wobbling around. I'm starting to believe the problem might lie under the hood. I had a problem some time back with misfiring and the truck bucking - this turned out to be a worn distributor. A new distributor, rotor and wiring solved that problem. But these symptoms are not similar - this is not a bucking problem; the entire vehicle starts to shimmy and wobble with the steering wheel vibrating back and forth. It's hard to tell, but I cannot detect any misfiring or rough running in the engine when these symptoms appear and I have no 'check engine' warnings.
Are there any engine/transmission/drivetrain related issues that could cause intermittent symptoms that feel like an out of balance condition? A few other facts:- I have noticed the truck is a little down on power lately- The fuel economy has dropped off - I used to do around 20, now I'm down to 16mph highway- (Very) slightly rough idle
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I have a 96 chevy Silverado 4x4 5.7 motor and it does the same thing but it doesn't leave in first gear, it misfires and high rpms and doesn't go in overdrive. but if I drive a little while and turn it off, it's fine it acts like a normal truck would. then if my truck is off for more that a couple of hours it goes back to it acting up.
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I have a 2001 Chevy half ton 4wd. It has the 5.3L, 4L60E transmission, and a 246 transfer. I am having problems with shifting. if I out the truck in drive, the trans will wind out in 1st gear and not shift. I then pull it down to 2nd and it will shift. When it comes time for third gear, it will not shift at all. It just simply revs until it catches up with the speed at which the truck is rolling. I thought it was a bad tranny as I smoked one and replaced it with a used one so we rebuilt the tranny and it still does the exact same thing. Also the speedo is not working but the odometer is on. Don't know if its registering anything but its on. I have also checked every single fuse and maxi fuse in the engine compartment and the drivers side panel.
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01 2500hd, 8.1L allison auto, push button 4x4. wont lock in until its about 2000 rpm then will release just fine. Just not sure of where to start looking for the problem. Actuator on the axle or in the transfer case or something else?
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My owner's manual states that I should change my transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 miles for a vehicle that experiences "normal" driving. My question is this- should I follow the owners manual on this or change out the fluid and filter at 75,000 miles? I just turned 70,000 miles and the fluid is not showing any signs of burnt material it and it still looks and "smells" healthy. Oh, I would consider myself a "normal" driver as well. The vehicle is a 2004 Chevy Silverado 4x4 with the 5.3 L engine.
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