Silverado :: 2007 - Left Side Cat Rattling Internally On Cold Starts
Aug 10, 2014
2007 Silverado 1500 ... Thought i had the dreaded cold start piston slap but discovered it was left side cat rattling internally on cold starts only makes noise for about 30 seconds. head pipe has been down 3 times due to transmission issues.. my question is if i gut the cats out will it damage anything or throw out codes ?I understand legal the ramifications ,just didn't want it to break up and plug up.
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I have a rattling noise from the front left side, and that only happens when i go over pat holes and bad road. I thought that it had to do something with my left shock absorbers but the service consultant insists it's from the dashboard. They already tried to fix it before and did not do it. What could it be.
Another thing is I have some kind of wrinkles on my dashboard especially visible when the sun hits it and looks really ugly, they told me they won't replace it unless it breakes apart,...are they supposed to replace it or no? [URL] .....
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My 2009 silverado ltz is haveing heating issues. when you first start truck all work fine. After a couple min the drivers side vents loose heat and blows cold air. the heat on the pass side works fine. then the vent will change to defrost even though the display still shows its on vent. the only way to get it back is to mess with the vent control. then it will last about a min then back to defrost. at this point i just turn it off. I have already replaced the control panel to no avail ...
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I have a 2005 hyundai accent, 62000 miles. When I accelerate there is a vibrating/rattling noise that sounds like it's in the back left side. It only happens sometimes. It happens when i accelerate slowly or up a hill, and if i press on the gas it stops. I thought it was the muffler, but I got the car inspected in May and it was fine. It's been doing it since before then. My dad said it might be a loose heat shield vibrating. It seems to be getting more frequent with humid weather. Should I be worried?
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Just bought a 2007 camry SE v6 And there is a rattling noise when i start the car, it only happens on cold start up when the engine is hot it start normal.
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I got a 2007 Camry 2.4 l4 engine under the hood and its didn't start this until we had a garage change the oil never did this when toyota changed it. Mostly when the engine is cold started there is a little bit of a rattling noise it will make until engine is warmed up and once its warmed up at times it will still sound kinda bad when it runs at normal engine temperature but this mostly occurs on cold starts and didn't start doing it until a regular garage changed the oil this never occurred when toyota dealership changed it
I don't know what kind of oil that was used in it last at that oil change but it started that about a week or so after that. Car currently has about 133,000 something miles on it ... Its not that loud of a noise but its noticeable when all doors are closed.
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I bought a 2007 Mini Cooper, used, at a Ford dealership in August of 2010. For nearly two years I loved this car and didn't have to pay much in the way of maintenance. I bought the car at 55k miles, and now it has 92k. Over the past year, I have noticed a rattling noise at cold startup, and it was especially loud in the winter, and I also noticed that the car consumes oil. As the oil got lower, the rattling got worse, and whenever I topped off the oil the rattling stopped. I brought this up at the MINI dealership (where I get all my repairs on the car) during a routine oil change and they didn't take it seriously.
Well, Tuesday morning on my way to work, there was a sudden loss of power and the engine started missing bad. I was almost to where I work when the car just couldn't hold and idle and stalled. It wouldn't turn over after that and it sounded really "sick". I had the car towed to the dealer, where they told me the timing belt tensioner failed and it allowed the timing belt to jump "a great distance". Apparently, these are "interference" engines (a term I learned because of this incident) so the screwed up timing destroyed the engine. The dealer said it will cost 8,000 to completely replace the engine.
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Upon starting, my 2002 (160,000) has a rattling sound coming from the passenger-engine side. I just started noticing it and it seems to happen in the morning on its first start up. It doesn't seem to be effecting driving, but not sure if it was something to be concerned about.
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I've been experiencing ENGINE RPM FLUCTUATION on cold starts. I took it into the dealer and they found an update available for the ECU and reprogrammed the ECU.
2009 Santa Fe ?
So far it appears to have corrected the RPM Fluctuation on a cold start... I see TSB 10-FL-010 cover this but also suggests to replace the Throttle Position Sensor which wasn't done on my vehicle.
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My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
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Okay. So the past two days I went out to start my car to let it sit for a minute or two. When I went back out I heard a strange noise coming from the passenger side towards the front of the engine. So I got in the car and went to drive out. I shifted into gear and went to pull out and when I turned the steering wheel my battery light came on and the steering wheel got hard. Only lasted for about a second. Then while driving I noticed the passenger side creeks when I hit a bump. Also after driving and parking I noticed my car jumps around slightly at idle
I'll get a video of the noise tomorrow morning...
Also, I do have a custom cold air intake I built myself, and a custom built exhaust.
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I tried search for posts about the squeaky rattling right side dash for the 2nd gen Prius but I apparently don't know what words to put in. I tried several variations …
I have a 2007 Prius Tour version. The right side of the dash squeaks and rattles.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. Today I briefly turned the heat on since the outdoor temp was cool. Later in the day, I resumed the A/C AUTO setting at 72 for BOTH sides of upper vent outlets. I soon noticed that the driver's side blows warm air and the passenger side blows cold air as it should. No amount of adjusting the temp control either up or down had any effect on the driver's side except for constant warm air. Now I know the passenger side can be adjusted separately but both sides were set for the same temp. Never had this happen before. Always before, if I wanted warm air, the warm air would come through the floor outlets. What's causing warm air to come out the top driver's side vents when it should be cold? Could a diverter door be stuck?
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Set on 72 both sides, passenger cold, driver side hot ... 2007 Yukon Heat and Air on together ....
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I have a 2007 hyundai Santa Fe GLS. When the AC is on the drivers side blows hot air and the passenger side cold air. Both actuators are working driver side and passenger side. I watched them engage as I changed air flow and temp. What I should look at next? Also, the rear ac button light will not come on and it blows hot as well.
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Have a 2007 Avalon, original owner. For past 3 winters, when temp is 10F or less, there is a loud clicking sound when the car turns left from a stop. The frequency of the clicking sound increases as the car accelerates. Once the car makes the turn, the sound stops. In extremely cold weather (0F or less) the noise happens when turning right, but less intense. The clicking usually goes away after driving several miles and will return after sitting outside overnight or for 4 or 5 hours if the temp is below 10F. Dealer claims all of the CV joints are good. I drove it with a tech this morning and it was clearly present.
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I have a short somewhere in my 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe. I got in one night and had no lights. Found a fuse that was blown and thought i solved the problem. The left Low Beam is still out.All other lights work. I used a light tester and I get power on both sides LH Low beam fuse where on the right side low beam and all other fuses I only get power on one side (Light Lights up). The low Beam left relay is same way. I get power in center of relay where I don't get it power in center on right low beam relay. I have switch all bulbs. Even switched entire light assembly with the right side thinking short could be there but the left side low Beam still has no power to bulb and same short in fuse and relay. So somewhere from fuse box under hood to the Multifunction Switch is a short and is it possible for an average DIY to fix this. Is Multifunction Switch easy to replace and would that be the cause or is it inside tightly taped wire bundle or something else I am missing.
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I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 with 145,000 miles. It runs great, lots of power and starts immediately, except for the other day. I drove to work and it was up to full operating temp, shut it off and came out 2 hours later and it cranked just fine and fired but died immediately. Repeated attemps got the same results. It would run for about 1 second and die. I tried starting it about 10 times in a row. I tried it again an hour later and its run perfect for the last 2 days, no hesitations.
The outside temp was about 65.
No check engine lite or any other lights came on.
No weird sounds.
New battery.
The fuel pump was changed out at a reputable Chevy dealership 3 years ago and about 40K. I haven't checked for any codes, or fuel pressure. It acts like a fuel pump failing, hiccups once in awhile and then leaves you stranded when you least expect it. But.....It started up instantly after sitting for an hour, meaning it had fuel waiting in the wings. I am thinking its likely electrical, a sensor? But shouldn't I be getting a light?
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The air con seems to work OK on the right side outlets, but the air comes out warm on the left side outlets.
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I have a 92 chevy pick up 5.7 with 159,000 miles. The truck runs and starts great but shortly after I bought it 3 years ago it developed a sort of misfire at higher rpm's, it's fine if I drive it normally but if I try to pass someone it will downshift then fall on it's face, (spit,sputter and slow down). some times I can feather the accelerator and it will come back again. I normally don't drive the truck in the winter but this week I was forced to use it and the cold weather is seriously affecting it, it took forever to get it up to 70 mph after getting on the highway. once up to speed it will do 75 all day without an issue.
I've replaced the plugs, wires, pulled the throttle body and cleaned it as the port for the pcv valve was plugged solid with carbon. I have not replaced the cap and rotor as they seemed to look fine. I have not checked the fuel pressure because it will break the tires loose upon take off and I don't think that would be possible if the pressure was low, would it?
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I notice a problem with my ES350 2008 today and would like to have your inputs before sending to the garage.
When the climate control is ON, the passenger vent and the central right side vent is blowing hot air, but the left side of the central dash vent and vent on the driver side is blowing cold air.
I increase the temperature on the driver side to the max and then and only then hot air is coming out, very weak. On the passenger side, the temperature is very precise, no sign of weakness.
The car has 150k miles.
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