Silverado :: 2007 - ABS Engages Way Too Often
Jul 26, 2011
'07 Silverado with 38k (maybe I don't drive it enough). Recent problem when approaching a stop where the ABS appears to engage. Pulse is felt in the pedal and it obviously increases the stopping distance. Does this about 40% of all stops and between 5-10mph approaching the stop.
Haven't rear ended anyone yet, but on dry 100 degree Detroit pavement, I wouldn't think the ABS would be engaging prematurely.
No error codes with a OBDII scanner and the brakes appear to operate and are otherwise smooth. And I flush my brake fluid annually.
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The issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion (I4). Recently the brake pedal goes extremely soft after the anti-lock brake system engages. It can still brake, but I have to press the pedal almost to touching the floor. It will stay soft a while (at least 20 min, probably longer), but I found that if I pump them hard a few times (like while at a red light) it then returns to normal.
My mechanic can't figure out why it doesn't immediately return to normal after the ABS engages, and he's not sure what to replace to fix it. I don't have the cash right now to just go replacing lots of stuff, hoping it might work.
(He even mentioned the possibility of removing the ABS fuse to prevent the ABS from kicking in and triggering the problem. Though wouldn't that be a step backward, safety-wise? I always heard that ABS is much more effective than pumping brakes manually...)
What's causing this and how to fix it?
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For the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
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My girlfriend has an 07 1500 new body style LTZ. It has the rear park assist and was working just fine before. Now when you put it in reverse the system makes the single beep. Then as you back up the lights in the back window on the passenger side all seem to work. The only problem is it doesn't beep anymore. As you get closer the beeps get more should get more and more frequent the closer you get to something. I tried turning it on and off, but no luck.
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I bought my second used 2007 chevy silverado 2500hd classic LT 6.6l diesel and the cruise control and elevated idle wont work. have done tons of reserch. And have found nothing useful to my situation. have found everything from a simple fuse to a module which is expensive. i have checked that all my brake lights work, have checked all fuses and even bought a new column switch for the cruise control. That didn't fix it.
I am thinking the brake switch or possibly something with the trailer whirring might be shorted or installed incorrectly.the reason i think it has something to do with the brakes is it is a common denominator between the cruise control and the elevated idle. if elevated idle is on and you touch the brake pedal at all it shuts off and idles normal on a working system. which i know from my previous identical truck. the brakes also shut off the cruise if touched at all. i have had a hell of a time trying to figure this out.
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Anyways i have a 2007 Chevy Silverado 5.3L that is having some difficulties with the power steering, let me explain. About 2 weeks ago i noticed when i first started my truck that the steering was stiffer than normal, so i checked the fluid and indeed it was low. Great i thought i will add some more power steering fluid, which i did and bam instantly fixed. Well fast forward to yesterday and all of a sudden now the steering is even worse. I thought dang i must be leaking fluids, but no the fluid level was just fine. I checked it both when the engine was hot and cold. The real mystery of this is that I am not hearing any weird noises, no whining or signs of a bad belt. Maybe the pump is going bad? Not sure what is going on here.
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2007 Silverado 1500 ... Thought i had the dreaded cold start piston slap but discovered it was left side cat rattling internally on cold starts only makes noise for about 30 seconds. head pipe has been down 3 times due to transmission issues.. my question is if i gut the cats out will it damage anything or throw out codes ?I understand legal the ramifications ,just didn't want it to break up and plug up.
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The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
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So I've upgraded to K04, and also have put in a DXD Stg2 clutch/flywheel. The issue is that when it engages in 1st gear, it's jerky. No other gear does this, 1-2, 2-3 etc is fine. It's when I'm slowly engaging the clutch from a stand still, it's not a smooth event. Under WOT in all gears it holds just fine too, no slipping or anything else. Slight chatter at idle when the pedal is out, but it's what is to be expected w/ a single mass. I'm very sure that everything was installed correctly. Is this a symptom of an upgraded clutch? I've driven Dave's GTI w/ a STG 3 clutch, and it didn't do that?
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It always engages but will not hold. Had front end rebuilt in 4/14. New 4WD seals in new Timkin hubs. Worked fine last year in snow. Swapped relays in aux box 3. No joy. ESOF connector OK. Any way to check ESOF solenoid? Looks like the ESOF may not be holding the vacuum necessary to keep the hubs engaged.
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Just bought a 2009 Accent 5 speed I have 2500 miles on it .The clutch engages when the pedal is right at the top. Is there an adjustment on this vehicle I would prefer it to engage about mid stroke.
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Cruise on/off works. Light on the dash. Some days pressing the "set" switch engages immediately. Other days, press it 20 times, nothing. Guessing switch contacts could use some cleaning/replacing. Service manual doesn't address how to pull the switch on the steering wheel...
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Currently driving a GTI mk7 autobahn 6MT, this is my first manual transmission i have owned.. and have a question about a squeak like noise i hear when the clutch engages in gear 2 and 3.
This does not happen all the time, however i noticed that some / most of the time when i slowly let the clutch out in gear 2 and 3, right after the clutch engages and i let it out the rest of the way, it makes a squeak kinda sound.. almost like springs contract / retracting, i can also slightly feel it in the pedal.
Question is ...is this some what normal? i have never owned a MT car, and cant remember if such a thing happened while driving friends / family MT in the past..
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I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna with approx 64K miles. Recently, I am hearing a squealing noise when the AC clutch engages (AC is working fine and blows very cold air). When AC is off for when the clutch is not engaged - no noise at all..... I have been getting alot of different answers as to what it could be and it is very confusing.... to me - it sounds like a clutch issue and I have seen videos on how to take apart and see if it is a bearing or bad clutch. I did pull the belt and checked the pulley - it turns freely and there is no bearing movement. How I can go about getting it repaired without replacing the entire compressor and other expensive parts.
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I've noticed when driving our 06 GX this winter, that after the traction control engages on ice for example, it leaves the car with about 20% of it's normal power when you hit the gas, like it acts as a fuel shut off or something. It's been potentially dangerous if you aren't ready for it.
We have a had a lot of ice in upper Illinois this winter and I've been blind sided by what happens a few times. The worst is trying to make a left hand turn from an icy street. A lot of our side streets don't get the attention from salt trucks like the main roads do. For example, when making a turn off of an Icy side street, onto a street that has no ice. Wheels slip a bit initially, you hear the Trac kick in, then gimpy mode. After making it off the ice, the car has almost no power to accelerate, even after it's on dry pavement for as long as 10 second or so. Really dangerous when turning into a busy highway. The car just won't go. Then all of a sudden, boom and it's off again like normal. I would think that things should go back to normal on dry pavement pretty quick but the delay is pretty long.
Is this normal? Is there any way to disable the traction control in this situation? It's like the truck shuts the fuel off ( I know some Trac systems work this way). I'm definitely not one that hammers on the gas either, as soon as the tires sense a little slip it seems to go into this gimpy mode. Otherwise, everything else functions as normal.
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V10 - When you shift into tiptronic to brake going downhill, the engine first revs up and then the transmission engages. Sort of an automatic double clutch!
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My SC430 '02 has developed a problem with the VSC. Unfortunately it s not the light but the VSC engages at slow speeds. If I accelerate from low speeds, engine does not rev up and the VSC lights comes on. It works as if I was skidding and tries to correct the direction of the car. Just as it should if I was on ice or experienced aquaplaning, but I am on a dry road. I did a reset of the ECU, had the car at Lexus (they were able to duplicate my issue) for a zero-calibration. They found no problem with the sensors. All did not work. Presently I drive with the VSC disengaged. I do suspect the speed sensors to act up as I had Tein-Coilovers installed, but how can I get to the source of the problem?
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Weird A/C issue that started yesterday. Had ac on all morning, start my car after lunch, a/c runs for a few seconds, hear a squeak (like a belt sticking) no more a/c. Moving the temp knob makes no change just all hot air. Both fans engage, compressor and what I believe is the clutch engage, hoses get cold, and no CEL's. Really stumped here.
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When I unlock the driver side door with the remote and i hope the door, if i do not close the door or if i close the door and do not start the car within a 10-20 second window, the door lock on their own and engage the alarm.
I am use to having the auto re-lock engage if you unlock with remote but no doors get opened during a certain timeframe, is it possible that my driver door is not sending the signal that it has been opened? is this behavior normal?
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I've had my .:R for a while now, gotten used to its little quirks. But one thing that sparks my interest (not really worrisome though) is I have a squeaking noise when the starter motor engages. It definitely squeaks once per revolution for about 4-5 sqeaks, and it's noticeable in and out of the car. Is it a bearing going bad?
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