Silverado :: 2006 Chevy Truck Hard Shifting Manual Transmission
Mar 17, 2012
2006 chevy 4.3 v6 5 speed manual trans. Very hard to shift into and out of gear , the truck has about 80,000 miles on it , its had the new trans fluid gm replaced for smoother shifting. If you hold the clutch pedal down on the floor hard it works fine. It all most like the pedal it screwed up. The pedal ass is plastic junk, I am thinking the pedal is bended. The clutch does not slip and I tried bleeding the clutch master cylinder and there are no leaks anywhere !
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My truck was intermittently shifting really hard in first and second . I drained the tranny fluid and installed a new filter and replaced the fluid, I also changed plugs and wires. Tranny fluid is at the top of the hash marks on dipstick when hot and in park. When I come to a complete stop my engine 5.3 litre v8 revs up to about 2000 rpms but the truck takes off slowly like the tranny is slipping it is worse on an incline. If I dont come to a complete stop it shifts fine and takes off with good power. After it shifts to second it shifts normally and drives fine. tranny fluid looks clean and does not smell burnt. Also when driving on the highway if I am going 45 mph and punch the gas it wont rev past 2200 rpms like it is lugging down. when i shift thru gears manually there is no slippage what so ever and when in park engine revs to 6000 rpms no problem. Also tranny is a 4l60e
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I have a 1999 chevy silverado 5.3 4wd w/ tow package. I bough it with 30,000 mi. It has always had a hard shifting/clunk after long drives or sometimes short ones that involve a lot of elevation. Oddly, if I stop and shut the car off for a minute or two the hard shifting stops, but eventually starts again. The truck now has 160,000...still with the shifting issue. What is this and with this many miles is it serious?
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I have a 2001 Chevy half ton 4wd. It has the 5.3L, 4L60E transmission, and a 246 transfer. I am having problems with shifting. if I out the truck in drive, the trans will wind out in 1st gear and not shift. I then pull it down to 2nd and it will shift. When it comes time for third gear, it will not shift at all. It just simply revs until it catches up with the speed at which the truck is rolling. I thought it was a bad tranny as I smoked one and replaced it with a used one so we rebuilt the tranny and it still does the exact same thing. Also the speedo is not working but the odometer is on. Don't know if its registering anything but its on. I have also checked every single fuse and maxi fuse in the engine compartment and the drivers side panel.
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Just curious if there are any other 2010 owners with any difficulty shifting gears in their manual transmission camrys? I noticed during my test drive that I grinded my way into 2nd once... I thought it might have just been my nervousness with a new clutch at the time. However, I've since put 300 miles on the car and I still have trouble putting it into second gear on a daily basis. Sometimes it grinds a bit, and sometimes it catches or a half second before it pops in. All the gears OTHER than 2nd gear go in like butter as you would expect with a new transmission. I'm not new to a clutch... this is at least my 4th car with a stick, so I don't think I'm doing anything out of the ordinary when shifting.
It reminds me of some older (100,000+ mile Nissan) cars I've had in the past... the syncromesh was wearing out and it would grind going into second or third, so I put in some RedLine MTL and got a little more life out of the transmission... but there shouldn't be a need for that kind of thing on a car with less than 1000 miles on it?!
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I bought a friends 95 f350 7.3 powerstroke with an E4OD. The truck quit driving.the OD light is not blinking. I confirmed the OD light does light up.The trans fluid is full , red and does not smell burnt. I have tried to manually shift 1st and second nothing happens. No reverse. Where should I look for the problem? Solenoid pack, loose valve body, bad relay?
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I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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I have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
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I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
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I have a 98 Chevy truck with a 4L60E. It has no second gear. I was sitting in park for about 10 minutes with the engine running, then put it in drive and it never shifted into second. It felt like it went straight to 3rd. I played with it manually until I figured out I had reverse, 1st, 3rd, 4th and torque converter lockup, just no second gear. My acceleration rate was medium and when I reach about 27-28 mph it would shift from 1st into 3rd. It has 230K on it so I rebuilt it with all the typical parts - frictions, steels, band, sun shell etc., still no second. I then pulled the pan back off and replaced the spacer plate and put in a shift kit. While I had it down I put a corvette servo in and did an air check. It worked fine. I could feel the band tighten.
Both the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids checked good at 23 ohms. I swapped their positions to see if it would make a difference. I also checked to make sure the 1-2 accumulator piston wasn't stuck in its bore, the spring was new from the shift kit. It was fine. Put it back together...still no second gear. When I originally pulled the pan off for the rebuild, the pan was free of any debris and was very clean. I then drove it a couple of miles to a local transmission shop. They put their scan tool on it and drove it around the block. There were no codes and the ECM was calling for second gear. It doesn't sound mechanical since almost all the parts have been replaced, rebuilt or inspected that affect the 1-2 shift. It sounds electrical. Is there anything I have missed?
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I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
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I have an 88 chevy K-1500 4x4 5.7L ... My truck lacks serious power, it idles rough, sometimes wont idle at all, sometimes Truck Idles fine. I have adjusted the timing to tdc, and 4 deg. both ways still runs like crap.. Sometimes I can keep it idleing, put it in rev. or drive, and it will die. I have no power and if I put my foot in it too much it will backfire. but will only backfires when in gear and press on the gas to put a load on the motor. I have replaced the: tps, map, egr, pcv, distributor, cap, ignition coil, rotor, plugs, wires, timing chain, both sprockets cam and crank, checked all hoses for leaks, replaced the injectors, the O2 sensor and have changed the intake gaskets. And am still having no luck...... I am bout to just drop an M80 in the gas tank and watch her burn..
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My owner's manual states that I should change my transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 miles for a vehicle that experiences "normal" driving. My question is this- should I follow the owners manual on this or change out the fluid and filter at 75,000 miles? I just turned 70,000 miles and the fluid is not showing any signs of burnt material it and it still looks and "smells" healthy. Oh, I would consider myself a "normal" driver as well. The vehicle is a 2004 Chevy Silverado 4x4 with the 5.3 L engine.
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A friend just had a transmission line pull out of his radiator and blow fluid all over everything.
How do these lines work? Are the kind of like the fuel lines that just plug in and are held in my a retainer clip?
Does the whole radiator have to be changed to fix it or can the "fitting" be turned out of the radiator and replaced?
Looking at the line that is still in the radiator, the fitting looks like a large hex nut at the radiator with a thick rubber washer on the outside.
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I have a 2006 GS RWD the transmission started acting weird 4 month ago went to many workshops and no codes were found in the computer and my problem is that when i am moving in the car for more than half an hour and stop the car seems hard and jerking while shifting to 2nd gear and if i put it in tiptronic it go to 5th gear immediately it seems ok when the transmission is cold so what do you think it has got 125000 miles on it and what is the normal temperature for the transmission so i can test it with mini vci...
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I have a 2006 Chevy 2500HD with about 180000 miles. All of a sudden the transmission is shifting extremely hard at times. It doesn't shift this way all the time. What could be causing this problem? It doesn't have to be under hard acceleration either when it does shift hard. It sometimes is during hard accelerating and sometimes it is under very little acceleration, but as I said it doesn't do it every time. When it does shift hard, it seems to do it in all gears.
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I have been trying to self diagnose an issue with my pick up for a while now. I have an 01 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 that shifts really hard into all gears. I was told it was the transmission going out, so we replaced the transmission with a rebuilt one and it did nothing for the shifting issues. We then had the transfer case rebuilt which also did nothing for our problems. My father who has some general mechanic knowledge is certain that the free floating rear end is not turning with the correct timing for the transmission shifting. No check engine lights come on at all during these issues. When I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a new transmission and blew me off when I told him it was just replaced.
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When parked and you shift between P to D or R loud engagement of transmission. Thought it was u joints, buddy says both look good/sound good when engaging P D R. Also shifts hard between 1-2-3 intermittently. I did read that it could be the TCC regulator valve?
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2007 V6 Mustang Manual Transmission. I recently got stuck in my drive way due to a poor plowing job by the plow guy. I had to turn the traction control off and aggressively shift transmission between reverse and 1st to rock the car and spin the tires. I eventually got unstuck but now the transmission doesn't feel right.
I thought it was the clutch but the issue seems to occur only shifting from 1st to 2nd. The higher gears all seem relatively fine. There is just a catch between 1st and 2nd now that sometimes causes me to not be able to shift into second gear without forcing the shifter down roughly.
Is it possible that I just threw something out of alignment inside the transmission itself? It doesn't make the car undriveable but i get ticked every time i drive it knowing that it was fine before the poor plowing job.
Should I even bother having it looked at? I know transmission repairs are expensive.
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1997 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 z71 transmission problems. 5 months ago I had it serviced and A/B shift solenoids changed along with filter and fluid. Now check engine is back on with P1860 code truck also has started shifting more firmly into second and at 65mph it gives a hard jerk.
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I've been hearing a quiet 'thump' when shifting. In particular, when first letting up the clutch starting out in 1 but also when shifting between gears when the clutch is fully down such as from 2->3.
I thought perhaps a fluid change was in order since I'm at 110,000 miles. It didn't make any difference. (I used Mobil 1 GL5 which according to independent tests is safe on yellow metals.)
So then I wondered if it's the engine mounts, but I'm not sure what it sounds like when they need to be replaced or if simply shifting between gears while driving as described above would cause a worn one to 'thump'.
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