Silverado :: 2004 - Low Frequency Grinding Noise When Changing AC Settings
Aug 6, 2014
My '04 Silverado makes a weird noise when switching it on or off. It also makes the noise when switching between floor and dash vents. Best way to describe it is a low frequency grinding sound. I'm not talking about the clicking sound that seems so popular with this model truck. It has that too, but this is something different. It does it every time I change a setting on the AC. It does not occur when changing from cold to hot.
My truck also has the issue where it will blow cold at first then blow hot air just on Driver side. Turning the truck off then on seems to fix that.
I've googled around but don't know enough about HVAC systems to know exactly what to search forand how to fix it?
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My 2007 Lexus ES350 with 81,000 miles on it has a very low frequency squeak when the heater is first cold or on low. When I turn up the fan above the lowest setting the squeak will go away. I checked my cabin air filter but it appears to be clean & newly replaced.
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I have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 with a 5.3V8, discs in front, drums in rear.
Series of events:
2011- Grinding noise from passenger front tire. Sounded like metal on metal. Removed tire to find that inside brake pad was completely worn down. I thought, at the time, that the pad separated from the plate, and fell off. I noticed at the time that my caliper was stiff (not releasing). No other (apparent) problems at the time. Drivers side pads looked as expected when I replaced them.
December 2012- Grinding noise from Drivers side front tire. I pulled the tire and found that the inside pad was completely worn. All the other pads looked fine. Still noticed that both tires were difficult to spin while in the air.
Feb 2013- Fuel economy has dropped an average of 3 mpg, since December. Started hearing an intermittent squealing/grinding noise from the front end. Seems to only happen when turning left (that could also be from my proximity to the front tire). I had my dad stand outside the truck while driving in circles. He said he couldn't be sure it was coming from the drivers tire. Sometimes the noise is loud. Sometimes its faint. The majority of the time there is no noise. The check engine light came on and I had a C0035 and a C0055. They are a Drivers side front speed sensor and a Vehicle Speed Sensor. Decided to change the drivers side caliper. I used pliers (yes I know I shouldn't have done that) to pinch the brake line to minimize fluid loss. Bled the line.
March 2013- Brakes have partially locked up on me twice in the last three days. I thought there was an electrical fire in my truck based on the smell of the brakes. I couldn't press the pedal. It was like pushing on a boulder. They didnt completely lock, but I could tell they were stuck. The second time it happened I drove immediately home and jacked up the front end. I could barely get the drivers tire to move. I cracked the lines from the master cylinder and some fluid came out. At that point, after reattaching the line, I could spin the tire easier than I have ever been able too in recent history.
Now, Ive read that the speed sensors on my truck are problematic. I'm inclined to think, since cracking the lines on master cylinder released the caliper, that the master cylinder is the problem. I just have difficulty rationalizing that the master cylinder would cause this problem, as of recently, predominately in the drivers side. It could be happening in the passenger tire as well, but it is not apparent.
I also use the parking brake every time I park my truck, even though its an Auto. I don't know why, but its habit.
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I have replaced my oil pan gasket with a felpro. I had oil leaking from the top of the oil filter. This oil pan has the filter going through it. I have replace the oil cooler cap and gasket and finally replaced the oil pan gasket. It worked. I do no have any leaks from above the filter. But I am leaking from inside the bell housing. It is still coming from the oil pan and nowhere else. (I have dye in the oils and can see it leaking)
SO I went back to the Haynes to recheck the torque settings. I originally torqued all of the bolts for 89 inch lbs Per the haynes manual)
here is what it says:
oil pan bolts:
step one (to engine and front cover)............89 in-lbs
step two (to rear cover).............................18 foot-lbs
this step two is not too clear.....
which bolts are the bolts to the rear cover??
what I think this means is the 2 long rear bolts that go to the rear cover should be 18 foot-lbs. in the haynes manual they are bolts 13 and 14.
Is this right.....I started to do this but then stopped becuase I felt I was going to strip the bolts.
This kind of makes sense due to there are no other bolts in the middle of the rear of the pan to the block.
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1994 Chevrolet silverado 2WD 350/V8 ... I've been too focused on the loose steering and now there is a grinding noise feel on the steering wheel when I'm driving straight and above 20 mph. I jacked up the front end of the truck and after wiggling the front tires at 12:00 and 6:00, I can feel a slight movement at both front wheels. Is it a telltale sign the wheel bearings has failed. Note that I am deaf and can't hear any growling/grinding but I certainly can feel the grinding feel on my steering wheel. Wheel bearings it is?
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Since I can't get to the potentiometer voltage divider circuit, if I add a fixed resistor to the output leg of the potentiometer and reduce the dimmer signal voltage by another 0.1 volt (to 2.6 volts out to BCM/PWM) will I set a BCM DTC or raise the voltage on the LED drive pulse to a damaging level? Alternatively, if I place a spst switch in the dimmer output signal, will the PWM simply switch off, or try to further decrease the drive pulse width? Last shot-in-the-dark question before I drag a scope out and start tapping into wires, how to find out what IC chip is used in the PWM?
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I have an 08 ES 350 and when driving and coasting between 20 - 60 mph, there is a rubbing, grinding, low frequency sound that I feel coming through the gas pedal. What is causing it?
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Started happening yesterday evening, it went on for like 15 minutes then gone then came back again. Not sure if this do anything, it happened after we changed the car battery few hours before we drove the car again.
It made noise even when the engine is not running, so the second i put the key in....that noise came up.
[URL] ....
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Have a 2008 with 23,000 miles on it. Recently, I noticed that there is a low-frequency noise (squeal?) that lasts for several seconds when turning the air conditioner on or off.
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I have been recently working on a 2003 1.8T fwd Passat that I have owned since new. I recently changed the front rotors, pads and CV axles. At low speed everything is great. No vibrations or unusual harshness. Starting at about 35 mph a low frequency driveline noise starts from the driver side and starts to get drummed out by engine noise above 60 mph. The noise is not very noticeable from the passengers seat. Initially I suspected a tire, but I swapped tires front to back and the noise didn't change. I have tried loading and unloading the front tires in 45-50 mph s-turns and the noise doesn't change.( I was thinking wheel bearings). I put the car back up on stands and tried hand spinning the wheels. No unusual noise was present. I have not found any clearance issues where there might be something rubbing. I got the axles from Raxles and am at a loss. Could this be a wheel bearing or a bad CV joint? How can I tell?
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