Silverado :: 2003 4L60e Trans Slips When Upshift 2nd To 3rd?
Sep 18, 2015
Truck has 222000 miles on it. With gentle acceleration not noticeable, with maybe half throttle rpms increase for say one second or two and then shifts smoothly into third, However at full throttle with the shift coming at 55 mph or so, it shifts perfectly with no slip. It also acts the same manually. I had asked my mechanic about changing the fluid and if it could fix the problem, he said, "well it could work or hurt it." After thinking about it, we decided to change the fluid. He did a full flush and cleaned out the pan which had lots of sludge in it but no pieces of metal in it that would seem to indicate a major internal problem. It doesn't seem to have made it much worse if at all, but did not fix it.
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i am having problems shifting. it wont shift into reverse all the way and when its in drive it has a hard time shifting from first to second gear and wont shift into third.
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I have a 1996 Silverado and it will not shift out of first gear. I have had the pickup for about 6 months and when I got it, it would shift if I accelerated to about 30 and let off but then I went though some mud and got stuck, I kept shifting from reverse to forward and I got out of the mud and it would not come out of first but reverse works fine and it will not shift manually at all the pickup has a 4l60e transmission.
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I have a 98 Chevy truck with a 4L60E. It has no second gear. I was sitting in park for about 10 minutes with the engine running, then put it in drive and it never shifted into second. It felt like it went straight to 3rd. I played with it manually until I figured out I had reverse, 1st, 3rd, 4th and torque converter lockup, just no second gear. My acceleration rate was medium and when I reach about 27-28 mph it would shift from 1st into 3rd. It has 230K on it so I rebuilt it with all the typical parts - frictions, steels, band, sun shell etc., still no second. I then pulled the pan back off and replaced the spacer plate and put in a shift kit. While I had it down I put a corvette servo in and did an air check. It worked fine. I could feel the band tighten.
Both the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids checked good at 23 ohms. I swapped their positions to see if it would make a difference. I also checked to make sure the 1-2 accumulator piston wasn't stuck in its bore, the spring was new from the shift kit. It was fine. Put it back together...still no second gear. When I originally pulled the pan off for the rebuild, the pan was free of any debris and was very clean. I then drove it a couple of miles to a local transmission shop. They put their scan tool on it and drove it around the block. There were no codes and the ECM was calling for second gear. It doesn't sound mechanical since almost all the parts have been replaced, rebuilt or inspected that affect the 1-2 shift. It sounds electrical. Is there anything I have missed?
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-My pickup was parked and hit in the rear axle in January. I had to have the whole axle replaced as well as the leaf spring to frame mounts.
-I finally received the pickup back and now when the trans is in Drive it will not up-shift until the rpms reach 2500 and it is a hard shift.
-Also the speedo does not work now.
-Check engine light also came on with code P0500- vehicle speed sensor.
-I replaced the VSS at the transfercase and the ABS sensor in the rear differential with no change.
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97 Silverado - 5.7 with 4l60e trans. truck will not shift into 2nd gear while driving. stays in first gear until rpm are high and shifts into 3rd. under hard acceleration will stay in 1st until let off gas then shift into 3rd. manual shifting results in same, no 2nd gear until selector is moved into 3rd then shifts into 3rd. Haven't got any trans codes, fluid change netted no change in performance, fluid was pretty dirty but didn't smell burned, and there were no metal shavings in pan.
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If I press the gas a little hard in drive, my tires squeal but if I'm in reverse I can feel a slipping in the trans. If I try to back a trailer up an inclined driveway, it won't go, the trans slips. I have no crud in the pan. I've replaced the reverse boost valve. I installed a Trans-Go kit which is suppose to eliminate the reverse slip but it hasn't worked. Everything else works just fine and my fluid is red. I have engine braking in 2nd and 1st. The van backs up fine, it just does this in reverse under load.
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Ok, my clutch has been giving me trouble for a little bit and I'm almost positive that I have a bent release fork. It also slips under heavy acceleration in 6th gear. I am planning on doing a clutch, compete with flywheel and release fork and a new rear main seal. My problem is, here within the last couple of days the trans would pop out of 4th gear if I was just coasting. It has been getting noisy over the last few weeks also. I'm no manual tyranny expert, but this is making me think I'm gonna need to have it rebuilt.
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Background 2006 F350 5.4L 3V, 4WD, K&N CAI, Superchips tuner, 3.73 gears, Jett MAF, 215,000mi.
My issue is I have a shift problem from 3-5. This doesn't happen when I'm granny driving, only under a hard acceleration. The problem is the tranny doesn't seem like it wants to upshift. RPM goes up but the truck doesn't accelerate unless I let off the gas. I have changed the fluid and filters every 20k since I got the truck (150k). This problem came up after I changed my fluid and filter a couple days ago.
This time I changed to Mercon LV because I couldn't find Mercon SP (which is okay according to ford TSB). I used Valvoline max life ATF which said it was Mercon LV compliant. So is this the fluid type (multi ATF, Mercon LV compliant) or a bad solenoid from my understanding it would be the direct drive solenoid? Or am I SOL?
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2001 VR6 owner. I'm looking at a Jetta currently that I suspect has a trans problem. Current Owner was bounced around shops being told it was a timing chain issue causing it to rev around 50-55 mph. Now I know that is definitely not it.
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I just picked up a 2000 v6 passat with an automatic trans. I am new to passats, esp with autos. The cars transmission is having problems shifting with the trans gets hot (25-30 min run time) and slips. What is the trans code for this car and is it FWD or AWD? It has 220k, and the engine runs great. It was sorta an impulse buy, I plan on flipping it so hopefully tis a good investment. Any common things I should be aware of so I can get it tip top shape to sell it?
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My wifes 04 explorer 4.0 4x4 slips in between second and third gear and you cannot manually shift the gearshift below 3rd gear. I assumed tranny was going out but was told that it could be the transmission control solenoid or the transmission control switch (i think they are the same thing). I read that the most common symptom of this going bad is a slip between second and third gear. Haven't checked codes but will when i get home to see what it comes up with. This is the messed up model where you have to add fluid underneath through the drain plug. Was going to change fluid and add lucas to it to see if it remedies the problem.
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I have a 2002 Elantra GLS with the 4 speed auto and in the mornings or after sitting in lot at work for 9 hours, the trans shifts hard from second to third (almost as if it has a shift kit) and slips a little from third to fourth. The TPS was changed once and that seemed to eliminate problems at the 26K mark. I have 109K on it now and at around 80k took it in to the dealer with the receipt for the same complaint and what was done the first time. Dealer kept overnight and said there were no problems. I do know from having a performance TH350 built that the harder a trans shifts (up to a point) the longer it will last due to less friction on clutches and bands.
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2006 f150 4x4 4R75E trans slipping in forward gears, reverse is ok. I dropped pan and it was clean. I dropped valve body and found OD servo shaft clip broken, the large snapring was I fine and in place. It allowed the inner shaft to float up and down. Would this cause my forward gears to slip or do I have a bigger problem?
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Have a 2009, 2500HD 4X4 23K miles that has an occaisional/intermittant trans slip when shifting from 2nd to 3rd (I think). It always seems to catch me by surprise so it may be 2-3 or 3rd to 4th. Shift point seems to be around 1800rpm, engine revs to about 2500 during the slip. It's always shortly after starting up and the trans is not necessarily up to full operating temp. I've noticed it happening in the dead of summer as well as the dead of winter.
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If I accelerate gently and keep the rpm down to about 2500 or less, I get a normal shift from 2 to 3 and I can then accelerate with vigor without any apparent problem.
If I accelerate the way I normally drive, at the 2 to 3 shift point the transmission misses the shift and I have to let off the throttle for a few seconds and wait for 3rd to engage. I usually see no codes, but once in a while P0758 reappears.
Both solenoids A and B have been replaced, as described in the thread referenced above.
More symptoms, and maybe this is a vital clue: the 3 to 4 shift is fine, but I've noticed that lockup takes a while to occur. When locked up, I normally see almost exactly 2000 rpm at 70 mph. I am seeing about 2150 rpm at 70 mph until lockup finally takes place, but I can't say exactly when it does happen---I have to watch the road now and again.
I understand there are a 3-2 solenoid and a pressure control solenoid, but I don't know enough about their purposes to decide that either needs to be replaced.
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I have a 1994 C-1500 4.3L with a 4L60E transmission. After driving for 30-40 minutes it loses 1st gear and you have to manually shift between gears. R, 2, D and OD can be manually selected but there is no automatic up or down shifting. There isn't any gear slipping prior to this. After sitting for 25-30 minutes everything works fine. I have noticed that sometimes before the problem occurs that if i manually select 1st gear it will stay in 1st & sometimes it will automatically shift to 2nd even though the gear selector is in 1st. Also it usually shifts into D at about 30 mph but sometimes it stays in 2nd until I manually shift down to 2nd and back up to D. It isn't giving any relevant codes (use jumper & flash codes). I'm thinking possibly faulty solenoid(s), but not sure.
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So my brother in law calls me because he is stuck in the mud. I back up to hook up to him. One rear tire slips into the muddy rut. Other tire is on dry hardpack. The tire in the mud spins non-stop. The tire on the hardpack wont move.... I feather the brakes as I have read it will engage the truetrac. Nothing.... Is this thing junk? I was super ticked off. How do I test the truetrac to see if it still works?
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I have a 2003 F250 with a 5.4L V8 automatic transmission with 64,000 miles. The truck runs and drives well, but occasionally while driving, it acts like it shifts into a higher gear, slips a bit, then downshifts and runs fine. The duration of this "acting up" is about 1-2sec. It seems to do it when going up a slight grade at cruising speed about 40-50mph. (Not towing when it does it) It doesn't do it all the time. I'm planning to change the filter and fluid but am doubtful that will work. The fluid color is nice bright pink and does not smell unusual.
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I have a 2003 silverado 1500 4x4. The check engine was on along with the abs light. I went to advance and let them tell me what was going on. I don't know the specific code but it said the passenger front abs speed sensor was bad so I replaced it along with new brakes, rotors and calipers. Now the abs, check engine and red brake light is on. There is also a message telling me that the brakes need serviced. I went back to advance and let them tell me once again why those lights were on and it was still the passenger speed sensor bad. What could be going on with it? Before it was replaced the red light never came on but now it is.
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I have a 2003 sliverado with a RDS radio. I had a bought another one from a person on ebay. I put it in and everything worked. the next day I went out to drive it and found the radio was lock up. Because of the anti theft on it. They did this to keep crooks from using the radio if they steal it. I read you have to have vin to unlock it without the scan tool. So I wanted to know how to use the old vin number to unlock it?
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