Silverado :: 2002 Truck Starting After Turning Key Off And On Few Times
Apr 22, 2014
My 2002 4.8L Silverado recently started having this intermittent starting problem.
A few days ago I got in to start it, turned the key and nothing happened. Lights, radio and power locks all were working fine but engine would not crank or turn over. Turned the key off and on a few times and then the truck started fine.
It started fine for about 3 days. Then got in to start it the next day and this happened again. Turn the key and nothing. Lights, power locks, radio all working ok. Turned the key off and on multiple times but still nothing. So I cleaned the battery cable connections and fully charged the battery, even though it checked out ok. Tried it again and same thing was happening.
This time I looked at the ignition and starting relays under the hood in the electrical box. I swapped a few of them around, tried to start it each time and still nothing.
So I had the vehicle towed to the dealership to be checked. The next day the service man calls me to tell me when they went to check it, the truck is starting fine.
I am not sure if this is a starter problem, ignition switch problem or maybe the computer. The thing is, I can't drive it like this because it is no longer reliable.
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I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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Recently my car has been giving me lots of problems starting. At first I thought it was a battery issue. All the lights on my dashboard would turn on but once I turn my key nothing happens . After trying to turn my car on all I would hear is one click . I get a new battery and the problem happened again . Thing is , it only happens sometimes and at the most inconvenient times at that.
I then thought it was a alternator problem but I ran the test to check that like taking off the the negative cable and even both after I started my car and the car stood running smoothly. Had someone else check the alternator and they said it was fine.
Today I had to turn the ignition switch about 5 times before the car even started . When it finally started , it sound like it was struggling to turn on. I have a 2001 eclipse gt.
What it can be?? Sometimes I'm scared to turn my car off . Someone told me it could be the cold weather , but I find it so hard to believe that it's just that. Especially when it happens at the most random times . When it wants to basically .
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More times than not now, when making a sharp left turn and sometimes a left turn in general, a loud popping/clanking/knocking noise comes from the rear of my truck. I can feel it in the steering when it's about to do it. The steering wheel will become stiff when turning left and when I straighten up it will pull to the right (just got the truck aligned so I don't think that's a problem). Rear left tire will spin like its struggling to spin. After all that I can make a hard turn right and "pop" everything will seem to go back to normal. 1999 Silverado Z71 5.3l ....
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Search of AF did not turn up any results. My 02 Silverado 4x4 Crew Cab 6.0 has begun to make a clicking noise when I am driving at low speed, and making any kind of turn to the right. This is in 2 wheel drive. No noise when driving straight. If I am driving through the neighborhood , (say, 20-25 mph), and the road curves gently to the right, I can hear an occasional/intermittent click noise, which sounds like it is coming from the LF wheel. It might give a single click every half second or so, sometimes 2 or 3 quick clicks, then silent for a second or 2, then a few more. If it is more heavily loaded, such as sharper turn, or more speed while turning, it is significantly worse, (more frequent clicks, almost constant).
Likewise, if I am at low speed, and turning more sharply, (such as a 90* right turn at an intersection, from a stop), it is almost constant repeat clicking until the wheel is straightened out. I am guessing it is possibly a u-joint on the left side half-shaft (or whatever it is called), that connects the transfer case to the LF hub? Almost sounds like needle bearings beginning to fail, is the best way I can think of to describe the sound. Even though I am in 2wd, the hubs do not unlock, so the front axles are always turning.
Hoping it is not front hub bearing going bad. I just got reassigned back to Dallas, and I will be driving the truck 800 miles to get there this weekend. I have maintained the truck very well, with the exception of having never even really looked at the front driveline components. (That ignorance could be haunting me now, or maybe just stuff that has worn out).
I only use the 4 wheel drive about 6-10 times per year, usually only for a mile or so to get to maintained roads. Never in 4x4 on dry roads, I switch back to 2WD as soon as possible.
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My 2002 Honda CRV has had occasional problems starting over the years i.e. takes 2 times to start engine. But lately it is struggling more to start i.e., engine turns over but you can hear it struggling to start i.e. sounds like dead battery but in fact battery is brand new. Now it can take 3 turns to start and this morning it took 5 tries. The problem is no mechanic can find out what is wrong i.e. starter, fuel line, electrical or what? because it always starts when in the shop. I have even taken it to the Honda dealer and they could not find the problem. This is a random problem but seems to be getting worse and happening more often. I am worried I will be stuck somewhere when the car does not start AT ALL one day.
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I have a 2002 F150. I have an intermittent issue with truck not starting. It turns over fine but will not start. Also, when having this issue, there is also no activity with the cluster when turning the key on (other than lights lighting up); the gauges will not move as they would normally when turning key on. I have checked every fuse inside / out. I have checked the fusible link at the battery as well as any other connections I could locate around the solenoid as well as disconnecting the ECM / computer and re-plugging it back up. Typically, after letting the truck sit for a day or so, it will start back up until next time.
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My 2002 f350 7.3 was given to me in July of this past year. I was 15 at the time and I was told that it was hydrolocked. Funny enough this is where I came to learn how to fix it, and this is the first time I have had to ask a question . I pulled both heads and replaced all 8 injector cups, I also had the heads re surfaced and had 7 injectors rebuilt and 1 replaced. I got it on the road in February around the 20th and since then I have put about 300 miles on it. Today I stopped at a red light and made a left turn and as I went to accelerate the truck jolted forward a few times and it felt like a tire was going to fall off while accelerating(only to 30mph). I pulled into a driveway to check all the tires, then I turned around and my foot was hard to the floor and the truck wouldn't go over 15. Diddn't smoke when it first happened, but after getting it off of a flatbed I turned it around and it hardly had enough power to get up my driveway. And I noticed it was pushing a steady stream of white smoke, the oil is clean and the oil cap doesn't get blown off at idle when I set it upside down on the valve cover.
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We have a 2002 Excursion XLT. 7.3 liter diesel. Edge chip.
It started turning over slowly when starting, and before I could take it in, it stopped starting completely. We tried jump starting it, nothing. the batteries seemed okay, so we took the starter down to the auto parts store and had it bench tested. It tested fine. We didn't think it would be the starter, since it is just under two years old. Didn't think the alternator was at fault, since it is a year old.
Purchased a new relay and installed it in the inside fuse box, nothing. We purchased two new batteries. After we dealt with rapidly flashing 'theft' light on the dash, it started up. Thought we had solved the problem. A couple of days later, slow to turn over when starting again. The next morning it wouldn't turn over at all. Tried to bypass all the sensors and relays between the ignition switch and the starter by connecting a wire between battery and starter. Nothing.
Had starter bench tested at a different store. It worked intermittently. Replaced the starter. Nothing. But when we hook up the battery directly to starter with key turned it turns over AND starts. Assume it something in ignition switch or a relay between ignition and starter. Bought a manual, but it doesn't show where to find relays. When I check trouble codes, I have a p1000, a p1260, a p0603, and a p0674.
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Got an '02 here. This noise started to appear recently. When I turn the key to put electricity on (without starting the car), I hear this electric motor-like sound, similar to power window sound, coming thru the dash area, and it can also be heard outside the car coming from somewhere in or near the engine compartment or in front of the dash/windshield area. Could this be one of the servo that operates the AC vents? or its something else?
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Having some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
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Grinding feeling, and noise from rear of 02 explorer xlt. only noticed when starting out from a full stop and turning. It feels like something is grabbing like the rear brakes. I purchased this suv of a local dealer lot, because it was so clean and on a short test run seamed fine.
The day after I picked it up I took it for a shakedown cruise to see if I noticed any problems. After going up a few forward grades I noticed a disturbing rattling noise coming from mid under carriage, and got very worried. I immediately took it to a local well revered mechanic. They eventually had it for 4 days in order to diagnose it. After the dealer had done the inspection on the car and passed it, that all rotors and pads needed to be replaced, left front wheel was locked up, inspection sticker month was never punched, both front tires were bad and either the flex plate or tork converter or both needed to be replaced. I took it back to the dealer with the report and he agreed to fix it with me paying for parts. He did and the rattle was gone !
Yet now I have noticed the problem mentioned at the beginning of this piece, plus the rear wiper does not work. I think I got taken for a ride, which may become a longer ride than I thought. All I want is a reliable car. what could that rear noise be ???
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I was driving my Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive single cab when it sputtered a couple of times I came to a stop light and the car stopped I tried starting it to no avail. I also noticed I did not hear the fuel pump run as normal when truck is in accessory position . When my buddy showed up I had him try and start the truck as I banged on the gas tank and it would run when I stopped so did the truck...
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I have a 2009 Silverado regular cab 2 wheel, drive 6cyl with 30K kms on the odometer. Yesterday I went to start it and it barely cranked like the battery was low. I let off on the key and on the 2nd attempt it fired up as normal. Again this morning when I attempted to start it the same thing happened. The battery appears to have a full charge as the headlights are bright when the ignition is turned ahead. This appears to happen when the truck is cold or first started in the morning. Any known issues that would cause this? It sounds like the starter could be dragging but given the little use this truck has seen I am not leaning toward that cause.
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I installed a new motor in a 1990 chevy Silverado about 5 months ago. every time i start it there is a loud clunky noise which goes away after about 1 or 2 minutes.I took apart the exhaust.. why does #2 cylinder have rust on the exhaust port not black soot?
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1999 Rodeo LS 3.2L V6 M/T 287K miles
It has been starting "harder" a few times per day over the last week. Sometimes it starts right up normally, quick crank and no gas. Other times it requires much more cranking and then a few taps of the pedal to start.
It seems to be happening more frequently over the past few days but it will always start.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter (external) along with the air filter, and that seemed to do it the first day, but then the occasional hard starting returned.
I also swapped positions of the fuel pressure relay and the heater relay just to see if maybe the pump relay was sticking intermittently, which I didn't think was happening since I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key before cranking the engine.
No hesitation while driving/accelerating, runs fine once started. Starts hard at different times during the day.
I'm planning to change the spark plugs this coming weekend just because they're due, but I don't expect that to cure this since it runs great once started and I have no CEL.
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I am having a bad time with my 2006 2500HD 4x4 with the 6.0. First the battery was beginning to act like it was running down, getting weaker and weaker every time I started up truck. So finally truck died at the gas pump. I pulled battery (optima red top), and took it over to NAPA to test. Battery tested fine on top posts, but was acting funny with the side posts.
So, I purchased a new Redtop, and installed and and clunk, truck wont turn over! So, back to Napa to buy a new starter, install starter, hook up battery and now the sucker turns over great but will not start at all. Truck threw 6 codes: P0335, C0035, U1026, U1041, C0040, C0055.
Wiring all looks fine, battery looks new, and I have changed nothing but battery and starter.
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I have a 1997 Chevrolet Z71 4x4 truck. 350 engine.
This morning I went to start the vehicle and it cranks fine but doesn't turn over. It cranks at a normal speed and then every second or so struggles, and then cranks normally again. About 2 weeks ago I went to start it and the starter didnt engage, it just spun. I released, tried again and it started right up. It did that twice over about two weeks. I figured the starter had gotten too weak, so I replaced.... No change.
The truck has been running quite rough for a little while, and I was doing research to replace the valves and sensors that were recommended (EGR and Idle Air Valves), but the truck seems to have decided that I will do this maintenance now, whatever it is. By running rough, I mean, when it idles, it shakes some. Going down the highway, it runs fine and doesn't miss or anything like that. It is sluggish, but it is a 16 yr old truck with 230000 miles, so it just seemed somewhat normal.
I have checked for spark, and verified that. I can smell fuel when I crank, so I don't think its a fuel problem, although tomorrow I will see if it will fire off starter fluid to verify. I have had the rotor go out before, but it seems when it did that it didn't stagger when I crank.
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I got a 99 Silverado z71. Well my problems started yesterday morning going to work when I got to work I tried backing into my parking spot I got to put it in reverse and to start backing up and the truck acted like it was in neutral. So without thinking I shut the truck off turned it back on and tried again and it worked like nothing ever happened. So I thought nothing of it sat there with the truck running since I'm there early I figured I had enough time to go get a bite to eat so I put it in drive And go to pull out and the truck was acting real sluggish taking off in 1st. Almost like it was slipping again restarted the truck and the problem was gone get back to work parked it.
Later that night on my way home on the highway I noticed the truck was shuttering periodically and the rpms were at around 2000 going 65. When the real problem started was when I came to a stop light and go to take off it was really sluggish and slipping pretty bad so I pulled into a gas station stop and restarted the truck and it temporarily fixed the problem tell I was five miles from my house this time it started slipping really bad. I was able to limp it home, I also noticed it skipped 2nd and went into 3rd. What I'm stumped on is why everytime I shut it off and restart it, it acts like nothing happens tell later down the road.
Could it be a computer problem or is the transmission done for?
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Drove the truck one week ago today and it ran perfectly fine. Drove it last night for about 20 minutes - ran fine. Drove it again today just 1 minute up the road - ran fine. Started it again this evening and drove it 5 minutes down the road - ran fine. Stopped and put gas in it - now it's not fine. After putting gas in it it refused to start but will turn over. Put a booster pack on it and it will start but would only stay running with the gas pedal pushed all the way to the floor, as soon as you took it off it dies. Now it will not stay running even with the gas pushed all the way down.
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i just picked up an '07 Camry XLE and every time I start the car (push start button) the horn gives me 3 quick honks. Same happens with the remote start. How to turn that off? Besides just not starting the car
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