Silverado :: 2002 HD 2500 6.0 / Idle Speed Suddenly Very Low - 300 RPM?
Aug 6, 2012
2002 HD 2500 6.0 - Pulled into Wal-Mart, everything was fine. Came out 20 min later, started right up, but felt like it stalled, it was actually still running, (barely). Shut off, restarted, same. Used pedal to bump idle up to normal 500-600 RPM, it was smooth, no misfire or roughness. Drove home, approx 5 miles, and had to keep the idle up at every stop.
Could be IAC? How can I test it/What checks can I do in the darkness, by flashlight? No garage, but I do have tools, and basic test light, dmm, etc. First thought was fuel pressure, but it runs fine going down the road.
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Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
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Granddaughter showed up with her '02 Accent idle varying between 600 and 2500 rpm. Disconnected Idle Speed Control Actuator and engine runs at very high idle so apparently the ECM is unsuccessfully attempting to manage the idle and the ISC is functioning. Reading P0507 code. Checked for vacuum leaks beyond throttle body, found none.
The car was involved in a fender bender accident a couple days before the idle issue. No CEL until a couple days after the accident. The varying idle started many days after the CEL.
The wreak cut a half dozen wires in the area outside of the battery. She repaired them and I just finished redoing with solder and shrink wrap. Found no faults with her twist and tape repairs or any other damage to wiring. Varying idle still there.
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Search of AF did not turn up any results. My 02 Silverado 4x4 Crew Cab 6.0 has begun to make a clicking noise when I am driving at low speed, and making any kind of turn to the right. This is in 2 wheel drive. No noise when driving straight. If I am driving through the neighborhood , (say, 20-25 mph), and the road curves gently to the right, I can hear an occasional/intermittent click noise, which sounds like it is coming from the LF wheel. It might give a single click every half second or so, sometimes 2 or 3 quick clicks, then silent for a second or 2, then a few more. If it is more heavily loaded, such as sharper turn, or more speed while turning, it is significantly worse, (more frequent clicks, almost constant).
Likewise, if I am at low speed, and turning more sharply, (such as a 90* right turn at an intersection, from a stop), it is almost constant repeat clicking until the wheel is straightened out. I am guessing it is possibly a u-joint on the left side half-shaft (or whatever it is called), that connects the transfer case to the LF hub? Almost sounds like needle bearings beginning to fail, is the best way I can think of to describe the sound. Even though I am in 2wd, the hubs do not unlock, so the front axles are always turning.
Hoping it is not front hub bearing going bad. I just got reassigned back to Dallas, and I will be driving the truck 800 miles to get there this weekend. I have maintained the truck very well, with the exception of having never even really looked at the front driveline components. (That ignorance could be haunting me now, or maybe just stuff that has worn out).
I only use the 4 wheel drive about 6-10 times per year, usually only for a mile or so to get to maintained roads. Never in 4x4 on dry roads, I switch back to 2WD as soon as possible.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
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The a/c fan on my 2002 Volvo v40 will suddenly speed up for a few seconds, and then go back to the original speed. It happens if the a/c is on or off. All speeds work otherwise.
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Mt truck will suddenly die while going down the road. I know it has a oil sensor and wont start or run with oil is low,but recently it just dies in the middle of the road or won't start after a drive of a few miles. After sitting for a few minutes it will usually start. This was happening a couple of times a day until this week when we have had ice and snow, we have been in four wheel drive for four days and it hasn't died or failed to start even once. Whats up with that ?
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Air Conditioner Blower Motor on any speed, lets say high. Running fine while driving. Come to a stop at idle or shift to N or P. A few seconds later the blower begins to vary its speed in pulsating rhythm in what would seem to be in cadence with what would be a rough or varying idle. Where to start? Is it the relay?
2002 BMW 330ci Convertible
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Truck (02' , 7.3 ) has check engine light and since I'm on vacation don't have access to my Autoenginuity diagnostic software, so looks like I'll have to go a auto parts outlet to get the code read.
But.... before I do I wanted to get some input from y'all. Basically what happens is the idle goes up while in gear and when I put it in neutral, idle goes back down to normal. In addition I noticed (yesterday) somewhat of a lope or stumble at idle while in gear. No stalling and no effect to fuel mileage.
Since I'm away and away from my tools I'm somewhat limited. Certainly once I get the code I'll know more.
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2000 Silverado ... 5.3 ... 260k miles ...
A while back the truck died on me driving down the road. It just stumbled a few times and then shut off. Acted like it was out of fuel. Drug it home and still would not start. Put fuel pressure gauge on, 0 fuel pressure. Bled gauge then cycled key to prime pump. Gauge read 40 psi, low but its something. Try to start truck and it fires right up. Assuming fuel pump is bad I go ahead and change the pump. All is good ~50 psi of fuel pressure.
Fast forward about 6 months and 10k miles to today. Same symptoms. Shuts off going down the road. Will not restart. Figure i would see if there is fuel pressure before I bother dragging it home again so I open the schrader valve with a small screwdriver and get a trickle of gas and a pssst. Try to restart truck, fires right up and drove it home. When I got home I put a FP gauge on it and fuel pressure is good. Ran fine all the way home.
Truck gives no codes/ warning lights. It does occasionally buck a little when trying to accelerate at low RPMs. (for example when in overdrive at ~45-50 and try to accelerate it will buck slightly) It's been doing that for years so I'm not sure if its related. Otherwise it runs good.
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I'm the loving owner of an amazing '02 RSX. She is just about to hit 100K, and has been completely trouble free. This past sunday, I started it up in the morning and immediately noticed a semi-harsh vibration, with high idle speed (1500ish, normal is 500). If I give it gas, the vibration and rumble noise goes away, but if it put it in reverse, it seems to get worse. After a few miles of driving, the idle speed returns to normal and seems to feel/sound fine. Also of note, if i hit a dip in the road, i get a vibration and engine sound that resembles that of a flat tire. I know this sounds random, but it's the best I can do at describing it. There are no check engine lights, temp is fine, and otherwise seems to be driving great. I initially thought bad spark plug or air filter, but have since thought of vacuum pressure or O2 sensor, maybe even an engine bolt break (from the sound it makes driving into a dip). Could this be as simple as getting a bad batch of gas?
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My 2009 Dodge Ram 2500 with diesel engine, intermittently makes a noise similar to the sound knobby tires make. It also sounds similar to the exhaust brake, but louder. A vibration accompanies the noise. Two mechanics (one a tire expert, one at a Dodge dealer) test drove it and examined it on their racks and said it's the right front wheel bearing/hub assembly. I replaced that, despite not hearing or feeling any problem when rotating the wheel by hand. I've examined all tires and turned the wheels by hand while listening for odd sounds or roughness, and examined all drive shafts and joints which have not apparent problem, to no avail. When this issue first started, I heard a sound like rubber squeaking while driving at very low speed, especially in reverse.
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I have an 04 6.0 F250. I am having a shaking between 1500 and 2500 RPM around 45 - 55 MPH. I have no guesses what is calling this, but the truck runs fine otherwise.
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I have a 2003 Malibu with 57000 on it. It recently started to high idle at roughly 2500 RPM. Could the throttle position sensor have gone bad? It will do this after it warms up.
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I have a 1998 Ford Escort which I drove about 450 miles in frigid weather over about 8 hours in mid January. After arriving at my neighborhood and getting off the expressway, I couldn't get the idle on the car (manual transmission) to go below 2500rpm's. Further, upon taking off, the car was trying to stall, and I was forced to feather the clutch through town driving and keep the throttle up so it wouldn't stall, even with the clutch in. The weather at the time was about -7 degrees (f). The next day the weather continued, and thee car would start, jump to the same idle for 10 seconds, then drop suddenly to 500rpm, then stall out. I wrote the car off, cleaned it out over the next week, and then I tried to run the radio while doing so last weekend. I got the car to start, and run normally. I think it may be a computer issue, but it may also be the temperatures. The car has 207,000 miles on it.
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I have a '93 Thunderbird 3.8 v6, auto trans, that was a great running car until I had the water pump replaced. So, I got the pump replaced and then 1 day later the car started to idle around 2500 rpm. It would hit about 45mph without even giving it any gas. I swapped out the mass air flow sensor for a new one. This brought the idle down a little bit. A month later, it shot back up.
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2002 Dodge Diesel PU ... At about 125000 miles a slight vibration appeared and has progressively gotten worse. Now at 177000 it comes on at 60 mph and is pretty bad. I've replaced tires, shocks, hub bearings, u-joints and locator bars, all to no avail. The tires show no unusual wear and the drive shaft(s) u-joints appear good. I'm not the only one with this problem but Dodge denies any knowledge of it's occurrence.
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I bought a 99 f150 lariat 4x4 with the 5.4 from a guy who said that it needed an oil pump. He said it lost pressure coming into work, he turned it off and coasted in. I towed it home and replaced the battery and bought a new oil pressure sending unit just to be sure it wasn't that.
Those things are so hard to get to. Finally I got an oxygen sensor tool on it and it was only hand tight. Rather than take it off I just tightened it up and started the truck. The dash guage read normal but the truck was idling so badly. Steady at about 1000 rpm and tooth rattling. 1500 with the foot on the pedal it evens out but still rough. Not sure if this was a good idea but I took it around the block. No power under 2500 rpm. Barely moving even. Just felt like there was no throttle response at all and again very rough.
Got it home and parked it. Now I'm wondering what to do to fix the Idle and power problem. Where to start would be great. And input on the oil pressure sending unit too. I suppose I'll have to get under there and replace it at some point anyways.
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I have a 1999 C2500 Chevy Silverado extended cab. On some slow speed stops the ABS kicks in and makes it hard to come to a full stop scary. There are no leaks in the system. The ABS light has come on, on the dash off and on. I thought I saw a post that you can shut off the ABS system not the real fix but safer until I can figure it out.
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Checked but could find much on the throttle body. I have a 93 Chev 1500 2wd 5.7 320000km when I drive on highway, it drives along good when I get to slower speeds is seems to studder. I have to push gas pedal to push it threw. I bought some throttle body cleaner and I noticed that when I sprayed around the bottom of throttle body. It almost stalls. Could this be the reason why I am getting the studder and is that the indication that I should replace the base of throttle body gasket ? I replaced the plugs and fuel filter cleaned iac motor ....
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My heater will blow hot when the fan speed is set to the lower two speeds but when I put the fan on the higher speeds the heat starts to turn cold almost right away, but when I put it back to low it gets hot again. It doesn't matter whether the button for the recirculate mode is on or off, defrost or whatever. WWhat is the cause of this?This is on a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD truck.
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