Silverado :: 2001 2500HD 8.1 L - Every Once In A While Engine Just Quit While Driving
Oct 25, 2012
My crew cab 2001 has 75K miles and is well maintained and garaged. Every once in a while the engine will just quit while driving just as if the key was turned to neutral all dash indicators light up but just quits running. Turn the key to start and hear the engine cranking but won't start. Sometime in park it just cranks however I noticed that when I move the shift lever into neutral and depress the brake it will crank and start sometimes.
I don't believe it's a fuel problem. Could it be a loose wire in the column?
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I have a 2001 2500HD P/U with the 8.1L V8. I have owned the truck for ~5yrs and used it with everything towing. For about the last three years, I have noticed that when the truck is in gear (Either Rev. or Drive) the engine idle almost acts like it is missing. It doesn't do this at higher RPM's (say over 1K) while driving.
Last spring I did a tune up (Plugs and wires) and a few of the plugs had quite a bit of build up so I figured that was what was causing the issue. For about 1wk after the tune up it seemed to clear things up (at least I didn't notice it), but then resurfaced.
My question is: should the "Coil" parts that feed each spark plug need replacing, or could they cause this symptom? The ignition system on this truck is a bit different that what I am used to seeing, so I am not sure where I should start looking for the problem.
Also, there are no error codes being thrown.
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I have been trying to self diagnose an issue with my pick up for a while now. I have an 01 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 that shifts really hard into all gears. I was told it was the transmission going out, so we replaced the transmission with a rebuilt one and it did nothing for the shifting issues. We then had the transfer case rebuilt which also did nothing for our problems. My father who has some general mechanic knowledge is certain that the free floating rear end is not turning with the correct timing for the transmission shifting. No check engine lights come on at all during these issues. When I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a new transmission and blew me off when I told him it was just replaced.
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01 2500hd, 8.1L allison auto, push button 4x4. wont lock in until its about 2000 rpm then will release just fine. Just not sure of where to start looking for the problem. Actuator on the axle or in the transfer case or something else?
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My truck is an 2003 2500hd with the 6l engine and 89k miles. From time to time I'm getting message "reduced engine power". Usually at the morning after 10-15 minutes after starting. I have to pull over, shut it off, wait few seconds then restart it. The ses light goes off usually by end of the day ( or after few hours ). When scanned by chevy tech showing code P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance. I have new battery with new main cable. TAC Module was cleaned.
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I am having a bad time with my 2006 2500HD 4x4 with the 6.0. First the battery was beginning to act like it was running down, getting weaker and weaker every time I started up truck. So finally truck died at the gas pump. I pulled battery (optima red top), and took it over to NAPA to test. Battery tested fine on top posts, but was acting funny with the side posts.
So, I purchased a new Redtop, and installed and and clunk, truck wont turn over! So, back to Napa to buy a new starter, install starter, hook up battery and now the sucker turns over great but will not start at all. Truck threw 6 codes: P0335, C0035, U1026, U1041, C0040, C0055.
Wiring all looks fine, battery looks new, and I have changed nothing but battery and starter.
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I picked up a very clean 2008 Silverado 2500 HD. W/60K miles. The vehicle has been very well cared for as I know the orignal owner. I have zero complaints with the truck other than an annoying front end clunking. Its very reminiscent to the intermediate shaft issues of my 2003 2500HD.
Basically when hitting very small road imperfections, I can feel/hear a clunking in the front suspension. I can also duplicate the issue by rocking the truck left to right with the steering wheel while going 20-30MPH. I figured, stabilizer links. I put the truck up in the air, & can't find a thing wrong. Links are tight as well as the ball joints & tie rod ends. Were these trucks know for a common clunk like this.
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My 2001 Chev Silverado 1500, 5.3L, 260,000 K miles may finally be near the end - It has been running great until this week. I live in Portland - weather was down to about 10 deg F a few nights and when it warmed up again the trouble started. After starting cold and driving for about 15 minutes it starts stalling out.
Sometimes it will fire right up again and I'll hardly notice except for a momentary drop to 0 on the tach. Other times I'll have to pull off to the side to the road and restart it. However, 2 times now it would not restart and stay running. It would either fire up but then die within 10 seconds, or it would just crank. Both those times it did restart successfully after 40 minutes had passed total and it drove fine afterwards until I got where I finished my commute (about another 5-10 minutes of driving).
I took it to a mechanic who could see it stall but was not able to duplicate the 40 minutes out of commission thing. His fuel pressure gauge indicated that the pressure was fine during the stall outs. The mechanic ran the computer diagnostics but didn't see anything unusual. He wasn't really sure what the problem was. He recommended replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter anyways - but couldn't say if that would make any difference.
Should I start throwing money into new parts or move on and start looking for a new vehicle?
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Driving down the road, no warning lights on, everything working fine, no stalling or any indication of a problem, car just shuts off. I think hmmm, put it in neutral and try to start, nothing, notta, zip ... engine not even attempting to turn over. Removed the battery took it to store had it checked twice shows to be good 100%.
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Truck is an extended cab, 8' box, 4x4
This truck has begun to not start in cold weather. No click of the solenoid, no starter movement. Dash lights all work, heater, wipers, etc. I put a space heater in the cab, on the drivers side floor board, warmed it up and then it would start.
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I have a 00 Silverado Z71 Ext. cab, 4.8 motor and auto trans. 264,000 miles. I noticed recently when driving down the highway at times the engine will begin to surge. Usually between 40 and 50 MPH. if i let off the throttle it will smooth out or if I give it more throttle it will smooth out. What would cause this??
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Today, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
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I inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
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I have a 04 Silverado crew cab with automatic AC. After many dead battery problems, the AC blend doors quit working correctly. If I pull the fuse and then let them reprogram, it may take several tries but I can eventually get them to work correctly. The problem then is that it only lasts for a couple of days. How to program these correctly?
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Driving down the highway today, my car just all of a sudden quit. I had it towed home, and checked the spark and fuel pump. It turns over fine, there's plenty of spark, and the fuel pump works great, but I don't think fuel is getting all the way to the engine. Could the fuel line be blocked or something? Maybe the injectors?
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I purchased the vapor canister vent valve and purge valve as the service engine light has been on and this are the contributors. I want to know the location of these and how to access. It appears that they may be by the fuel tank and I don't know if I need to lift the box or something to access them. It is the 5.3L V8.
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My passenger folding mirror quit working,not sure when it happened because I hardly ever use this option but I noticed it earlier today.
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Truck was sitting for a month, now drivers side power window has quit working. tried switching circuit breaker. can hear clicking sound in switch and lights dim but the window will not roll down. All other electrical is working fine.
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Truck is a 2003 1500HD Silverado with the 6.0L 364V8. Last winter I started getting the P1516 code and reduced engine power randomly during driving. After dealing with it for about a month I did some research and discovered in most cases it was either the wiring/plug or the TAC module itself. After going over the connections I couldn't see any visible breaks..etc but I decided to go ahead and change out the connector and about 6inches of the wiring.
After replacement the code hadn't come back until today, probably atleast 9months ago was the last time it did it. Today the code came on four times during a 10minute drive. Before it would come on once during the drive, i'd clear it with my scan gauge, and it would not do it again the entire day. I checked all my connections once again and everything is intact and there is no visible breaks and the connector is clean. I'm starting to think that it was just a coincidence that this problem quit when I replaced the connector, and was wondering if colder weather could have weight on this issue?
After poking around the posts on here and other sites I found that many ended up replacing the TAC module which is on the throttle body. After looking at mine the only way I can see replacing that is just buying a new throttle body with the TAC on it, can't seem to find just the TAC part by itself anywhere. So if I were to order a new throttle body how hard is it to remove/install? and do I have to do a relearn process or is it plug and play?
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My 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 (139,XXX miles) V6 3.0, recently quit on me while driving on the highway. It will no longer start. I spoke to a mechanic and he informed me to fill the radiator (which was empty) and attempt to start the truck with the radiator cap off. He said that if radiator fluid gushed out then the engine is blown. Is this necessarily the only cause, that my engine is in fact blown.
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The engine of our VW Passat 2000 quit suddenly while driving home on freeway. Night. Rain. We put on the flasher lights as we were slowing while trying to move to the right lane. No shoulder as we we were on a bridge. Do not remember being rammed from behind. Had a new battery installed one month earlier after VW mechanics could find no reason for intermittent non-starting of car which we had been experiencing. They had run "fault codes".
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