Silverado :: 2000 - Truck Died Suddenly With No Apparent Reason
Oct 12, 2012
2000 Silverado ... 5.3 ... 260k miles ...
A while back the truck died on me driving down the road. It just stumbled a few times and then shut off. Acted like it was out of fuel. Drug it home and still would not start. Put fuel pressure gauge on, 0 fuel pressure. Bled gauge then cycled key to prime pump. Gauge read 40 psi, low but its something. Try to start truck and it fires right up. Assuming fuel pump is bad I go ahead and change the pump. All is good ~50 psi of fuel pressure.
Fast forward about 6 months and 10k miles to today. Same symptoms. Shuts off going down the road. Will not restart. Figure i would see if there is fuel pressure before I bother dragging it home again so I open the schrader valve with a small screwdriver and get a trickle of gas and a pssst. Try to restart truck, fires right up and drove it home. When I got home I put a FP gauge on it and fuel pressure is good. Ran fine all the way home.
Truck gives no codes/ warning lights. It does occasionally buck a little when trying to accelerate at low RPMs. (for example when in overdrive at ~45-50 and try to accelerate it will buck slightly) It's been doing that for years so I'm not sure if its related. Otherwise it runs good.
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The other day, in sub zero weather I left my radio and lights on as I ran into the store to grab washer fluid. The engine was turned off, but I did leave the radio on for my buddy.... I was in the store for a max of 5 mins. I get back into the car, go to turn it back on...... and nothing.... ZERO juice.... now I've had the radio on before for a much longer period of time without the engine running and have had no problem.
We ended up jumping the car and it started up with no problem. I let it idle for a bit but then all of the light on my dash came on..... I reved the engine a bit and they all went away.
A few days pass and the car starts up with no problem. Then I get stuck sitting in underground parking, so I turn the car off while I wait for the cars to exit the garage... again listening to music with the car off... go to start and nooooo juice! Being that the car is manual I was able to get it rolling and then popped the clutch..
224,000kms and counting.... all OEM
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I just recently purchased a 1996 celica GT Hatchback. It had 263K on 235K the timing belt was changed, oil and filter, tire rotation. When I bought the car on the 13 of August it drove and ran well. Drove it home over 45 miles with no issues. Only issue I noticed was that third gear grinded a bit but it's to be expected. Today after it had sat for all that time with the lights on the battery was dead. Jumped the car. cleaned and protected the contacts on the batt. and hooked it all back up. Let it charge for an hour and then drove it to work. On my way to work the engine oil light came on and the car died on my. It has oil and there are no apparent oil leaks. The car is turning over but not starting.
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My truck was sitting in front of the house, unlocked and the alarm disarmed. For no apparent reason, the alarm on the truck went off. I tried pressing both arm and disarm button on the FOB and the alarm would not shut off. I opened the door, started the engine and the alarm immediately turned itself off. I need to look in the manual and see if there is any condition that would cause that particular event. Strange to say the least.
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The AC in my 2000 Toyota ECHO died a couple of years ago. With the record heat this year, we finally decided to get it fixed. On the first try, the mechanic thought it just needed some adjustment and recharge, and we wanted to save money, so we went that route. Didn't work--kept blowing the fuse. The mechanic advised that we'd need a new compressor. We obtained a remanufactured compressor and had the mechanic install it. Seemed to work OK at first, but now it works only intermittently, with no apparent rhyme or reason. I'm wondering whether it was a mistake not to replace the condenser and drier as well. (Obviously, we were trying to fix it on the cheap!) If we replace the condenser and drier now (about 3 weeks after replacing the compressor), is that likely to fix the problem?
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Once again back to the ol' 92 GMC C1500 V6. Had my Ford Escort air assembly disassembled to clean something and received an emergency phone call, the truck seems to start just fine so I took it to get where I needed to go. Ran fine no issues even took it on the highway, ran just like she used to. On the way back I stopped at a gas station, when I went to start it she wouldn't start (towed it home again).
Checked ignition system and it was fine, removed the top of air filter housing and filter and looked down into the fuel injection system and had a person crank the engine and once again no fuel was squirting out. Took out the injectors and they both tested good and the same, 1.7 ohms each, going out to rent noid light again but doubting it will do any good to test again but who knows at this point.
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I have an 07 Camry and the alarm keeps going off for no apparent reason. Is there anyway to reset the alarm system itself? If so how and what do I need to do? How to do this.
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My 2009 managed to lose 4 quarts of oil over 200 miles today.
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I tried starting my car today and it didn't want to go. I took out the air intake sensor blew at it and plugged it back in and started it, but it didn't sound the same, the muffler wasn't making as much noise as usual and just sounded like the engine wasn't working the same. After that it started normal and i've been driving for about a week, and today it didn't want to start again so i took out the censor did the same but still didn't start so i put down the clutch revved it a couple times and like magic it worked.
I think i need to change the censor but i'm not sure and i don't want to spend money if i don't have to.
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I own a 2003 BMW 5301 with the sports ,premium and 'M' package. Of late the battery drains for no apparent reason. This happened a few times 2 months ago and I had the battery and alternator replaced. This has again started happening. The car starts promptly in the morning but refuses to start in the evening when I am ready to leave work. It has to be jump started. This does not happen everyday and the BMW service folks have not been able to figure this out.
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Ford Ranger 20012.5LManual Transmission4 Cylinder Engine4x2 Drivetrain~160K Miles
While driving home tonight, my truck suddenly lost power, as if I turned the key to turn off the motor. There was a beep, the one that goes off whenever I open the door while the key is in or the light is on, then the "Check Gauge" light came on (the one that warns me when my gas tank is near empty), following that the yellow Battery light came on and finally the orange "Check Engine" light came on.
I pulled out into an empty dirt lot, but that was pretty difficult as the power steering was gone (since the truck was off). After parking the truck, I turned the key to the actual "Off" position, pulled the key out and gave the truck a few moments. I put the key back in and tried to get my truck running again. Of course, it didn't work, but I figured it wasn't the battery because it lacked the sputtering motor turn. There's that and the battery is under two years old. The truck seemed like it really wanted to turn and start, but it lacked a certain something to get it up and over that last hill to vehicular movement. I don't think I was lacking gas, since it should have given me the red "Check Gauge" light and even if I was, I know I have another 5 miles before I have to fuel up (I would know since I've tested it to see how far it would go on that light). I was pretty low on gas when this happened, so the thought came to me that maybe my gauge was starting to get a bit wonky. Then a more realistic thought came to mind.
I've had this bad habit for a while, where I fill my gas tank to only about a quarter or a half at the most. Part of it stems from a paranoia of having somebody siphon gas out of my truck at night; yes, I could have fixed this by installing a lock on the gas cap (albeit, my counter-argument is that it's better to have them take the little bit of gas than have hundreds of dollars of body damage from an aggressive thief). Anyway, I've heard that this habit of filling the tank below half can speed up fuel pump failures. Despite this, I've had no other symptoms of a fuel pump failure coming, as I haven't experienced any issues with surging/bucking.
So here are my questions:
1) Am I right in assuming it's a fuel pump failure?
2) Are these instructions to fuel pump replacement accurate? (Yes, I know the DIY Matrix provides every reason on why I should avoid doing this myself, but my wallet I'm itching for a project.
3) If it's not a fuel pump failure, what could it be?
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My wife just had an issue today on her 2009 base sedan. The TPMS came on for no apparent reason. Tire pressure was good all the way around. Cleared the code, which shut off the light, only to have it come back on 20 mi. later. What the cause could be?
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My aunt came to me the other day about her car not starting and I found that the battery was shot and would not accept a jump start so i replaced that and then yesterday it died again with the new battery so naturally, I replaced the alternator. After swapping the alternator I jumped the car ran it for about 20 mins and told her to follow me to grab some food. When she proceeded to back out the car died again!!!
So I tightened the belt on the alternator a little more, jumped it and let it run a little bit. This time I went through all the basic electronics lights blinkers brakes ect except ac and radio. then i back out and pull back in the parking spot and I was thinking pow it's fixed.
So I turn on the A/C and i notice the sound of the RPMs go down which doesn't concern me too much but when I looked at the RPM gauge it was erratic but the engine wasn't fluctuating with it. So I turned the ac off checked the A/C fuses they were fine. Tried turning the A/C on one more time and this time, RPM gauge stops reading all together and the A/C light was flickering very quickly.
I'm not good with the electronic side of the car but I am leaning towards a very bad grounding issue or short. I have no multi-meter so I haven't read any voltages but I am going to see if I can borrow one from my cousin.
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I Have A 2001 Ram 1500 With The 318 5.2 Engine , Oil Pressure Jumps From 40 To 0 For No Apparent Reason, And Then Lifters Began To Tick. Turn Off Truck And Recrank Oil Pressure Returns To 40 Lbs, Rev Up Engine To 2000 Rpm Or Better And Pressure Goes To 0 Instantly. I Have Replaced Sending Unit, Replaced Oil Pump And Pickup, Changed Oil And Filter Using Dodge Filter, Removed Valve Covers And Intake Cleaned Out All Sludge, Tried 3 Different weights Of Oil, Cleaned Oil Passages, Inspected Oil pump Drive Shaft, Pulled Rear Main Cap And Inspected Bearing , Looked Good, Changed Oil And Filter 3 Times , Engine Is Very Clean. Engine Never Has Low Oil Pressure Either 0 Or 40 Lbs Never 10 Or 20. I Have Heard Others Describe This But Never Heard The Answer . Truck Has 70,000 Miles ,runs And Sounds Perfect When Oil Pressure Is At40. It Can Idle At 40 Lbs Hot, Which Leads Me To Believe Bearing Clearances Are Fine.
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I've noticed on a few occasions (maybe 3 or 4 times total) on my 2005 V8 (about 2.5 months old and 2000 miles) that the brakes seem go into "ABS mode" for no apparent reason. No rain and no snow etc. As I depress the brake normally or even lightly it takes over and reacts like I slammed on the brakes. Then everything returns to normal.
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Car wouldn't start on Wednesday so wife had neighbor jump start the car and she took it to the auto store and had the original battery replaced. On Friday, while driving the car, the battery light came on so she took it to the auto store to have the battery checked. When they went out to check it the car wouldn't start, only click. The battery has a full charge and doesn't drop when the key is turned. I pulled the starter and had it checked...it's good. I've checked relays and fuses and am coming up with nothing.
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my '02 Durango is losing oil pressure for no apparent reason. A little background here. The truck has 143,XXX miles on it, I just had the top end apart for the l/s head gasket. Everything went well, and the truck was running fine for about 3 days. Then, for no apparent reason, the oil pressure dropped off. But the weird part is, is it's not staying at zero pressure. It's actually fluctuating. Now before anyone chimes in with a bad oil sensor, you can hear the lifters start to make noise till the pressure comes back up again. Up until the head gasket, the truck had been trouble free for the past 8 years. We bought it with 55,XXX in 2005, and I've always held to 3 mo./3,000 mile oil changes, and bi-annual cooling flushes, as we go EVERYWHERE with this thing.
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A month ago my check engine light came on so, after checking to ensure the gas cap was screwed on correctly, I did what the manual recommended and took my car directly to the dealership. After paying a diagnostics fee and losing my car for an entire day while they ran tests and contacted Toyota, my dealership told me they couldn't find a problem and just reset the indicator.
Within a few days the light came on again but before I had a chance to take it back to the dealership it went off. Now some 3 weeks later it is on again and I'm wondering what to do.
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I have a 2004 Alero that I just bought used about a week ago. Everything has been running fine until 2 days ago..it would not start. I waited a few minutes then it started right up. Today as I am coming up the highway everything dies...ALL power to the car is gone and I coasted into a parking lot. Approximately 15 minutes my husband gets into it and it starts. The code reading machine at O'reilly says I have an evap leak but that it would not cause the car to immediately stall like that.
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I have noticed a significant (15 to 20%) drop-off in mpg in the last 6 months or so. My 2006 prius at 95,000 miles is just short of the warranty on the battery pack. I brought it into the dealership and they ran the routine computer diagnostics and said everything looks good. I fully expected them to tell me that the performance on the battery pack had fallen off, so I was a bit put out. The guy actually got a bit defensive with me when I asked him some further questions about what the criteria are for determining whether the battery back was performing as it is supposed to in order to get the maximum MPGs.
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My wife drives a 2000 passat wagon that's had wacky electrical problems since birth...most common are warning messages for no (apparent) reason -- check engine, brakes, oil, etc...
This morning the car wouldn't start...got it going with a jump and drove it a while to recharge, but when I turned it off, the radio stayed on, as did a fan under the hood and probably other stuff I didn't notice ... I assume this is what caused the battery to die in the first place... I've disconnected it for now but can't keep doing that forever ...
I've seen a lot of Passat electrical problems, I'm guessing alternator, but don't know much about cars.
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