Silverado :: 2000 Tahoe V8 - Hesitation Or Stumble Under Acceleration Or At Steady Speed
Dec 28, 2013
I have a 2000 Tahoe with the 5.3L V-8, 351,000 (yes that is correct) miles. Runs great except it has recently developed a stutter, hesitation, skip, I don't really know how to describe it, under acceleration or at steady speed. This is an intermittent problem and it is driving me batty. The only codes are a P0420, maybe after 350k miles it needs replaced? Would that possibly cause this issue, or am I looking at something more sinister?
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I have a really weird issue with my 2003 Ford Focus. Manual transmission, just over 50,000 miles. I've been noticing a stumble or hesitation (like the engine is cutting out) at steady speed, but ONLY when it is snowy out, more if it's windy as well. I don't recall that this happens if it's rainy or foggy. All maintenance is performed as specified, to include air filter changes.
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My 2011 stick shift no air Accent has a hesitation or stumble on light acceleration that comes and goes. It may not occur for weeks then re-occurs. It is hard to reproduce intentionally. It never occurs in cruise. The CEL is not on. Most often occurs at 1400 to 1500 rpm with slight acceleration or a slight increase in load as coming to a slight hill. I tried injector cleaner a few times and changed air filter. It seemed more reloaded to induction airflow so I changed the MAP sensor. I understand the 2011 Accent does not have a MAF sensor. It is still occurring. It is fine in steady cruise as well as in hard acceleration. I am wondering if it is a TPS sensor problem. It has 60,000 miles and otherwise runs fine.
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2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
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I recently picked up a 2000 Excursion with the 5.4 V8. Engine has 150,000. I got it cheap because it has a surging problem over 1500 RPM. This problem is intermittent.
I have 1 DTC. P1000 which is OBDII checks not complete. I cannot clear this even using the factory procedures. FYI..I have a snap on solus scanner. I think this is a voltage problem, If you try to start the engine with the scanner plugged in, the scanner shuts off, so I'm thinking the PCM loses battery power supply when the starter engages, resetting the PCM.
This problem is NOT a miss.... something isn't opening or shutting off above 1500 RPM. This truck doesn't have an EGR system, it has the EVAP system. This may be the problem, thats why I'm here. OK. heres a list of what I've replaced since I started working on it.
Engine oil and filter
air filter
fuel filter
8 COP's
8 plugs gapped properly
cam position sensor
IAC sensor
MAF sensor
Removed throttle body and cleaned.
Vacuum checks. 22" at purge valve,fuel dia, and vacuum canister
Checking with the scanner at 1500 RPM with problem
SFtrim1% bounces between5-15
SFtrim2% bounces between2-0
LFtrim1% bounces between11-13
LFtrim2% bounces between 5-6
O2S11(mv) bounces between 200-781
O2S21(mv) bounces between 200-800
Ssystem is in closed loop holding throttle at 1500 RPM... Note engine surges when at the RPM or above. I'm thinking the engine is lean, not sure how to read the trim numbers...
Idle is fine ... Problem is intermittent ... Also noticed that engine will only advance spark to 30 degrees @2000 RPM during this problem. I have seen it advance to 38-40 degrees when I do not have this problem, so I kind of understand the power loss,knock etc due to the timing, my question is whats causing it to do this?
EVAP question.... The purge valve should open according to PCM command a certain value, correct? I can monitor the duty cycle % but cannot activate and check proper duty cycle through scanner . When I try to I get an error message of module error -unspecified.
Disconnected hoses at purge valve,Full manifold vacumn on one, nothing on other, no flow through purge valve, but scanner shows 30% duty cycle. I would think the should be a little flow at 30% Maybe my problem? Troubleshoot procedure for the EVAP would be good.
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What would cause a trouble code PO 300 on a 1998 Chevy Blazer. The truck will run good sometimes. When it runs bad it will stumble at low speed acceleration. It will run fine wide open. Dealer looked at it and thought it was egr vale. I replaced it and it runs a little better but still stumbles.
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Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent with the 1.6L in-line 4 cylinder engine w/ 160K miles. Over the last few months, I have noticed that when I run the A/C, the car has been at idle for a while, like at a stop light or in park at idle, and I have been driving the car for awhile in the afternoon (summer here), the engine sputters and hesitates on acceleration. The engine makes a pinging, sounds as if it's misfiring and then bolts like lightening, especially when I turn the A/C off. The mpg has declined. I barely get 21 mpg. The car does not have an inline fuel filter, only the "sock" in the tank. I have changed the spark plugs, plugs wires and have run two cans of Sea Foam FI cleaner through the fuel system and the problem still persists.
I am clueless to what could be causing this other than my injectors are still dirty and need a heavy duty cleaning. Could it be an alternator problem because I have noticed the dash lights and headlights get brighter. Could the ignition coil be going out. The car idles fine and the problem disappears when I shut the A/C off and only seems to do this when the weather is hot!
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with a 1.5L SOHC and manual transmission, with 207,000 trouble-free miles on it.
I have recently noticed a hesitation under acceleration. It happens most frequently under hard acceleration under lower RPM, if I'm close to lugging the engine. The engine "hiccups," almost like it is missing a cylinder. It will hiccup 2-3 times until engine RPM's increase, then smooths out.
What the cause may be? Last changes: Plugs at 175K; Plug wires @ 160K, Fuel filter @ 100K, Timing belts at 60K, 120K, 182k. K&N air filter cleaned at 50K intervals, last time @ 200K.
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Have a steady very light ticking noise from dash when my truck is moving but it stops when the truck stops. What may be the cause?
1998 Chevy Ext. Cab 1500 Z71 4x4
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I am getting a light clicking from my rear Axel when coasting at a slow speed. It could be clicking at any speed but my car is to loud to hear it going down the road. I don't have more details than this. What to look for ?
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I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with 90K. If the overnight temperature has been below 40ish, there is a noticeable hesitation or stumble (almost as if the engine cuts out for a second-but never actually stalls out) on the 2 to 1 downshift when braking to a stop while the vehicle is in open loop. As the engine warms up the stumble becomes less noticeable until the temp gauge reaches the 1/4 mark at which point the stumble is gone. It won't return until the following morning - the next cold start. Our mechanic has cleaned the Throttle Body and the MAF- no change. Their transmission guy said he did not think it was a tranny issue. It has no other symptoms and seems to shift normally at all other times. What to do next??
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First, a little background on my truck. 2007 with 5.4, 122000 miles, oil changes with 5-20 Motorcraft and Motorcraft filters, plugs done by dealer 40000 miles ago. The truck has developed a ticking noise, kind of like a lifter (I know these engines don't have lifters) that is most noticeable from the side of the truck near wheel. ticking speeds up with the rpm. Also around same time, between 40-55 under load there is a bit of a stumble, but I can gas thru it. I'm guessing these are related. I'm thinking spark plugs again, but shouldn't I get more than 40000 out of them? I might just take it in, since I've got oil leak somewhere around back of the oil pan, but figured maybe might get some clues first. Also, no CEL.
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I had a motor go bad, overheated, replaced it with another motor. Got it all back together and upon test drive I am having a low rpm (below 3k) bad hesitation/misfire. The engine runs just fine at wide open throttle.
First thing i checked for were plug wires and vacuum leaks. The only difference between the old block and the new block is the fact that i replaced the MAF with a new one, as i was getting a maf code on the old engine. I can't get it to throw a code...
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460, stock RV motor with LT headers, Alum Stealth intake. Carb is brand new, Holley 600 cfm, out of the box.
Elec choke, vac 2nds. Timing is set to 12 BTDC.
Truck idles beautifully. Drop it in drive, it will ever so slightly stumble/hesitate then go liked a raped ape. Has great acceleration (for a 8k dually crewcab). In my mind, I'm thinking a slightly larger than stock accel pump to give a bigger shot.
However, it does have a 1" carb spacer. That and the hi rise stealth, is it leaning out for a sec and causing the stumble? Would pulling that 1" spacer work? I was thinking the higher the carb the better to get less heat dissipation from the engine's heat. Replacing the heater core now. So I have some time to sort it out. I'd like to road test a tank of gas through it, but gotta fix the heater 1st.
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I have recently spent many hours into my 97 two door Tahoe. The truck is in Mint shape, and I'm having an acceleration problem. See, it drives fine under normal driving conditions. Say I want to pass somebody on the highway, and I need to accelerate. Well, the truck will rev up, but does not increase in speed. I thought it may be a transmission problem, so I brought it to a transmission place. They said it wasn't the transmission and it may be an exhaust problem.
I brought it to an exhaust place, and they said it wasn't the catalytic converter either. Possibly it may be the fuel filter. Could it be a faulty fuel pump ? Even though it's only a few months old.
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When I take off from a start it will intermittently stumble or hesitate, seems to be around 1500 rpm. have also noted it at higher speed while cruising. its more like a momentary power cut than a miss fire.
So far I have done the following
new fuel filters
clean MAF
new PCV valve
new spark plugs
check all hoses and plugs etc
injector clean
checked techstream for codes. there is one for a heated O2 sensor but dont think thats it.
2002. SC430
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A couple questions I have about my truck. I'm still new to the F150.
First, my truck has an Ecoboost and I have a slight stumble/hesitation when you start the truck cold. It clears up within 10 seconds and doesn't seem to affect drivability whatsoever.
Second, it seems that only my driver side mirror has the "dimming feature" to it. Is this normal?
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My 95 Tahoe smokes bad on startup (coolant) and a little (oil) on accelerating from zero. There is also a large internal coolant leak. I just replaced the intake manifold gasket as it was the easier fix; didn't do anything. Does this mean it is definitely a head gasket? Anything I can do in the meantime until I have time to pull the heads?
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I just bought an 05' SE V6, with the 3.3 engine. Seemed to run good, had it checked by shop and they said it was a good buy, so i bought it. First day I owned it, took it to toyota dealership and had them do a 90, 000 mi service. did a timing belt, water pump, tranny flush, oil change. I got the car back, and it ran like crap! It would stumble on hard acceleration, and seem to even surge a bit at times. I took it right back? Service rep tried to say I put in diesel or bad gas. I only filled up with chevron premium, which is only gas i ever use. I know how to put gas in my tank!
Any how, they checked timing belt and said it was right, but the timing gear needed to be changed because one tooth looked rounded off. That didn't work either, still stumbled on acceleration, but idled perfect @ 675 rpms. So now the serv. manager gets involved, says he wants me satisfied. they then drained all my gas, then re-fill it. then flushed out all injectors. then put in all new plugs and PCV valve. I did a pressure test of fuel system, said it was good. While they were changing the plugs, they did a complete 6 cylinder compression test and scope analysis, and it came back good, too! I pick it up cause i got to go back. It ran a lot better but still stumbles on hard acceleration on highway. drove 1250 miles back, didn't use a drop of oil.
I did notice when I got 100 miles the temp gauge dropped all the way down to second mark on cold for a little bit, but went back to normal temp and stayed there through the last 1100 miles(that scared me, so i watched temp gauge like a hawk). And the outside temp was @ 62 degrees when the temp dropped at 1200 ft. Elevation...maybe it got stuck and is ok? My CEL has never came on through all this, and it does work, I have made sure of that.
I bought this car from original owner, and they had engine and heads just replaced in 2008 at 44,000 miles at toyota dealership under warranty fot 10,000 dollars. i verified this with that dealership 3 times with 3 different reps at that dealership. old owner said he was having problems with engine stumbling, and took it in twice and dealership said it was ok each time, not throwing any codes and sent him away saying car was ok.
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