Silverado :: 2000 Chevy Truck Won't Start - Security Light On
Aug 19, 2011
I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
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I've read tons of posts about the security system and passlock on the ignition...but my truck does not have a chip key, as the dealer even looked into the key issue with me. There is no chip or resistor on this thing at all.
So, with that said, I have the identical problem as the passlock system people do. The truck will start, then stop, and the security light flashes at me. That's the last thing I want flashing me at 6am when I'm trying to leave for work.
It only happens about once every 2-3 months, but I want to eliminate the problem as I have a feeling one day it's not going to start on me and then the real problems will start...
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. Two nights in less than a week, my horn has went off in alarm mode. Is there another reason for this other than an attempted jimmying of the lock? I live in a decent neighborhood with lots of pole lighting. Someone told me the keyfob battery was dying but I don't have the fob.
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4.8 liter v8. On my drive to work this morning the headlights and the cluster light shut off and the security light illuminated and has been on ever since . The truck will crank and run fine I have brake lights and turn signals and reverse lights. I have read that this problem can usually be traced back to the body control module. I located the TBC fuse under the hood and it was blown. so I replaced it with another 10 amp fuse and it blew immediately after I inserted it. So I am thinking if I am able to rule out a ground or bare wire somewhere then the module itself may just have to be replaced.
The next question I have is due to the security light staying on in the cluster all of the time. Assuming that I can continue to drive the truck while waiting to have the BCM replaced I would only need to ensure that I did not drive after dark as I have no headlights. But I am concerned that the security light being on all of the time will drain my battery. Do the security light remaining on will in fact drain the battery? And if so, is there a way to disable the cluster and door security light so that I may continue to drive it and not have to come home and disconnect the negative cable every
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I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
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I have a 98 Chevy truck with a 4L60E. It has no second gear. I was sitting in park for about 10 minutes with the engine running, then put it in drive and it never shifted into second. It felt like it went straight to 3rd. I played with it manually until I figured out I had reverse, 1st, 3rd, 4th and torque converter lockup, just no second gear. My acceleration rate was medium and when I reach about 27-28 mph it would shift from 1st into 3rd. It has 230K on it so I rebuilt it with all the typical parts - frictions, steels, band, sun shell etc., still no second. I then pulled the pan back off and replaced the spacer plate and put in a shift kit. While I had it down I put a corvette servo in and did an air check. It worked fine. I could feel the band tighten.
Both the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids checked good at 23 ohms. I swapped their positions to see if it would make a difference. I also checked to make sure the 1-2 accumulator piston wasn't stuck in its bore, the spring was new from the shift kit. It was fine. Put it back together...still no second gear. When I originally pulled the pan off for the rebuild, the pan was free of any debris and was very clean. I then drove it a couple of miles to a local transmission shop. They put their scan tool on it and drove it around the block. There were no codes and the ECM was calling for second gear. It doesn't sound mechanical since almost all the parts have been replaced, rebuilt or inspected that affect the 1-2 shift. It sounds electrical. Is there anything I have missed?
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We have a 2007 Ranger. When the temps hit 32 degrees F or below, the truck won't start. The security system light comes on. We have to run through the security system reset process, sometimes a few times, before it will start. Afraid all this key turning is going to burn out the ignition. Don't have a lot of confidence in my Ford dealer as they replaced the brakes and put the shims in wrong. Local mechanic says it's probably electrical. Is there anyway to bypass the security system or can it be removed?
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I have an 88 chevy K-1500 4x4 5.7L ... My truck lacks serious power, it idles rough, sometimes wont idle at all, sometimes Truck Idles fine. I have adjusted the timing to tdc, and 4 deg. both ways still runs like crap.. Sometimes I can keep it idleing, put it in rev. or drive, and it will die. I have no power and if I put my foot in it too much it will backfire. but will only backfires when in gear and press on the gas to put a load on the motor. I have replaced the: tps, map, egr, pcv, distributor, cap, ignition coil, rotor, plugs, wires, timing chain, both sprockets cam and crank, checked all hoses for leaks, replaced the injectors, the O2 sensor and have changed the intake gaskets. And am still having no luck...... I am bout to just drop an M80 in the gas tank and watch her burn..
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2006 chevy 4.3 v6 5 speed manual trans. Very hard to shift into and out of gear , the truck has about 80,000 miles on it , its had the new trans fluid gm replaced for smoother shifting. If you hold the clutch pedal down on the floor hard it works fine. It all most like the pedal it screwed up. The pedal ass is plastic junk, I am thinking the pedal is bended. The clutch does not slip and I tried bleeding the clutch master cylinder and there are no leaks anywhere !
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My truck was intermittently shifting really hard in first and second . I drained the tranny fluid and installed a new filter and replaced the fluid, I also changed plugs and wires. Tranny fluid is at the top of the hash marks on dipstick when hot and in park. When I come to a complete stop my engine 5.3 litre v8 revs up to about 2000 rpms but the truck takes off slowly like the tranny is slipping it is worse on an incline. If I dont come to a complete stop it shifts fine and takes off with good power. After it shifts to second it shifts normally and drives fine. tranny fluid looks clean and does not smell burnt. Also when driving on the highway if I am going 45 mph and punch the gas it wont rev past 2200 rpms like it is lugging down. when i shift thru gears manually there is no slippage what so ever and when in park engine revs to 6000 rpms no problem. Also tranny is a 4l60e
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I removed the cluster in my friends 2003 Suburban last week to send it in for repairs as the gear selector and backlights as they were not working. I used this company several times before and they do excellent work. When the cluster arrived back a few days later I installed it and the truck would not start. I made sure the battery wasn't ran down and that everything was connected and still nothing. I called the GM dealer and the service tech told me that the truck should run without the cluster plugged in. Tried it and still no luck.
I proceeded to do the passkey security relearn procedure even though the security light was not lit and nothing. I got on here yesterday and read a post of about possibly a bad connection in the steering column so I lifted the column up and down several times while trying to start the truck and got nothing. All of the lights come on and I hear the fuel pump prime but it does not attempt to start. I drove the truck in the garage the day I removed the cluster and it ran great.
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2000 Silverado ... 5.3 ... 260k miles ...
A while back the truck died on me driving down the road. It just stumbled a few times and then shut off. Acted like it was out of fuel. Drug it home and still would not start. Put fuel pressure gauge on, 0 fuel pressure. Bled gauge then cycled key to prime pump. Gauge read 40 psi, low but its something. Try to start truck and it fires right up. Assuming fuel pump is bad I go ahead and change the pump. All is good ~50 psi of fuel pressure.
Fast forward about 6 months and 10k miles to today. Same symptoms. Shuts off going down the road. Will not restart. Figure i would see if there is fuel pressure before I bother dragging it home again so I open the schrader valve with a small screwdriver and get a trickle of gas and a pssst. Try to restart truck, fires right up and drove it home. When I got home I put a FP gauge on it and fuel pressure is good. Ran fine all the way home.
Truck gives no codes/ warning lights. It does occasionally buck a little when trying to accelerate at low RPMs. (for example when in overdrive at ~45-50 and try to accelerate it will buck slightly) It's been doing that for years so I'm not sure if its related. Otherwise it runs good.
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I was driving my 2000 Olds Alero today and all of a sudden my security light came on. I have had problems with it before blinking and the car not starting where I just turned the key and waited for ten minutes and then the car would start (my mechanic told me to do that until I can afford to bring it in to him) but I have never had it come on while I was driving! I am worried that the car may just stop in the middle of the road. Why it would do that or have the same problem? I was also told that maybe I just need to go to Ace Hardware and get a new key made. Should I also stop using my keyless entry and just use the key to open it?
Another issue that I have been having was that once in awhile my signals won't work. It is strange but if I put the hazard lights on for awhile then try and signal, it will work. This doesn't happen all the time but I am worried because obviously signals are important!
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I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and it seems that every now and then when I try to start the car the security feature activates and I have to wait 10 mins to try to start it again. On some occasions when the 10 mins are up and I try to start it the feature reactivates and I wait another 10 mins. This actually happened on a ferry ride and I held up the offloading of vehicles. My question is, Will a remote starter installation alleviate this issue? If not. What can I do?
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My silverado no longer starts and the fuel gauge no longer reads. so far figured out that there is no power to the fuel pump and sending unit. Looking for an engine wiring diagram for this truck with the 6.0 engine?
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I've been having a problem with my 2000 Alero recently where, periodically, attempting to start the car will end in the car stalling and the security light beginning to flash on the dashboard. Usually after about 10 minutes the light goes off and the car starts normally (well, insofar as feeling like it's going to shake itself apart the moment it hits idle is normal, but that's another topic for another post). This happens about 40% of the time when starting the car, and seems to be happening more and more frequently (which may be my imagination).
I took the car into the dealer (after my local mechanic told me he was familiar with the problem and wouldn't be able to fix it), and they told me I needed to replace the body control module and passlock sensor... Car info : 2000 Oldsmobile Alero~140,000 miles2.4L I-4.....
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I have a 1999 Gmc Truck 1500 5.0 v8. Notice my truck starting heavy..like a low battery or something. This started getting worse over the week till the point where it cranks real slow. So i bought a new battery. Installed battery and still the same issue...slow crank like it wants to lock up. So i removed starter and notice some wear on the fly wheel so i replaced flywheel. Still the same thing! So this week i bought a new starter and guess what same issue. What is cause for a slow crank.
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I have a 2006 GMC Canyon i5 4x4 with 86000 mi. The problem started about 3 years after purchase. I would try to start the truck the starter engages but doesn't start, let off the key and the security light on the dash starts flashing. The manual instructs you to leave the key in the run position for ten minutes turn to off and retry to start. This usually works, on a couple occasions, I've had to do this twice. I've had the vehicle to the dealership with no results, it doesn't leave a code on the computer and hasn't happened while they had it. They tell me everything checks out fine but the problem still persists. I hate having a vehicle I can't depend on.
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1996 1500 4.3 19k - After a 3 or 4 block drive I shut truck off for 1/2 hour or so. Went to start and got this no start situation acting like it was either flooded or vapor lock. New battery, new alternator...did act like a flat spot in starter a couple of tries but otherwise normal starter action.
I let it sit for about another fifteen minutes...tried and it started right up? I have been told this is a problem with the distributor cap & rotor going bad and is a common problem. Is this correct? If so, how is this corrected. Does the whole distributor have to be replaced? Rebuilt? Does just the distributor cap and rotor need replaced?
Batt and Alt less than three months old.
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My wife stopped at a local store(car running tip top as usual)turned off the car. As she came out of the store after about 20 mins. NO START! Security light is flashing all interior lights,radio etc work but NO headlights and if you turn signal it blinks real fast like a bulb out condition! The fuel pump does its prime up etc. NO CRANK,after say 15 seconds security light goes out,still NO CRANK!I did 10 minute reprogram(key in accy for 10-20 min) -no change!I also tried the valet key!NO GO!!!
I know GM had a few security problems but I have been out of the mechanic loop since losing the use of my legs!
2001 Buick Lesabre
6cyl automatic
155,000 miles
passkey 3 with transponder on outer ignition ring
battery is new and loads out fine
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