I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 replaced calipers, master cylinder, and ABS Pump/Modulator. Bled all four calipers. Brake pedal spongy and has very little pressure and travels all the way to the floor. What am I missing here?
View 8 RepliesI have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
View 6 RepliesMy dad drives an '06 Sonata. And he recently broke a brake line and had gotten it fixed. His current problem is that his brake pedal hasn't returned after getting the line fixed. What can he do to fix that? The pedal is really low and is spongy. And his ABS and ESC lights are also on.
View 4 RepliesI have a question about the bleeding the brake? When I washed my E, I usually spray the wheel and the brake part. I don't know it is a good idea or not. Recently, I felt like I have to step further on the brake pedal to apply the brake.
The force is there and Brake assist is still in effect if I step fast enough. I just felt like the brake pedal is spongy. My E is on 36k right now. Do you think wash the wheel often will cause the problem to brake line?
I have confirmed that my Gf's Elantra is easy and ease to brake than mine. At the mean time, her brake fluid is darker than mine. My brake fluid is full and clear. Maybe I should not wash the wheel more often. Or maybe I get OCD too much?
I just finished replacing pads, calipers, rotors, wheel cylinders & brake drum hardware on my truck along with flushing the brake fluid. The brakes work but the pedal goes almost to the floor. While bleeding them some air did come out as expected. But a couple times the master cylinder reservoir got very low on fluid. The workshop manual talks about bleeding the MC but are special fittings needed for that?
View 10 RepliesDrove the lady's car out on some errands today and ran into a problem on our drive home. Car was pinging really bad (low rpms in 1st and second) and car seemed as if it couldn't get out of its own way. Was driving for some time on the freeway (after a blistering 0-60 time of 20 seconds ), and noticed that the brake pedal was really spongy (felt like a mk1 when you try to brake with the car off). Found that the e-brake handle was up (negligibly up (perhaps 1mm raised)). Didn't have power brakes at all and had to use a lot of engine braking to slow the car off of the freeway.
Rear of the car smells like copper (wet pennies) and found that the brake reservoir is cracked (but fluid still at max level). Also noticed that as of late, when the car is at a stop (sometimes in gear, and sometimes in neutral) the car will rock/bump a little almost as if someone were giving it a bumper kiss with their car.
My Gen I Prius is screeching at me with the BRAKE and ABS lights on, and I hear the electrically actuated pump pulsing as it tries to get pressure into the system. The pedal is spongy and will go all the way down, with the right amount of exerted pressure from my foot.
View 6 RepliesAfter my local brake shop changed the front rotors and brake pads on my 99 grand cherokee the brake pedal is spongy and long, almost reaching the floor. They don't know why. Apparently they had a problem with fitting the new pads. I took it to the jeep dealer and they told me the master brake cylinder was leaking and needed to be replaced. many hundreds of dollars later the brakes are still spongy and long and does not correct with repeated pumping. The dealer was also stumped and I complained that nothing changed with the new master cylinder. what might be the problem?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Ranger Sport 4x4. I noticed yesterday that when I stepped on the brake pedal it felt like nothing was there until I step a little harder then it was like full brake application. The truck only has 63000 on it. Then every once in awhile it would be normal ie very light brake application and slows like it should. Then back to same issue... Any thoughts about this??
View 8 Replies2009 XRS ABS brakes .... I changed all four brake pads and flushed out most of the old brake fluid. Bled all four sides. But now while I am in idle (like waiting for a light to turn) my brake pedal is spongy and is making a hissing sound. All was good before I did this job.
View 3 RepliesI replaced all the brake pads on all 4 wheels. Pretty standard procedure. I now have a very spongy brake pedal. It stops but the pedal will be almost to the floor. I did not break any of the lines open during the procedure just used c-clamp to spread the calipers. No ABS light. Have a Snap-On power bleeder and bled the system several times with no change. Checked the power steering fluid level and inspected entire system for leaks.
2002 F-550 V10
I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
I noticed last week that my brake pedal seemed more spongy than usual. The next day the pedal would go down about half way to the floor before I had pressure. And then the next day the pedal would go straight to the floor. Pedal comes back up once released. I still have brakes pressure about an inch before the pedal bottoms out. Its been like this a couple days now. The vaccum pump works fine. I'm gunna try bleeding the brakes on it tomorrow.
View 5 RepliesIve got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
View 14 Replies2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500... When slowing down for stop, when almost stopped, sometimes the brake pedal pushes back momentarily, makes a bit of a (errrr) noise, and for two or three seconds during the push back the brakes do not work. Mechanic has cleaned ABS wheel sensors. All brake pads are good. The truck computer shows all systems okay. All brake lines are new or one year old.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4X4 extended cab with short box with a 5.3L. A couple weeks ago I noticed that my brake lights were staying on all the time. I removed the fuses for the trailer left and right lights and the brake lights went out. due to the holidays I haven't had time to find out why the lights were staying on.
Today I noticed that my 3rd brake light was staying on all the time, even with the truck off, and no one in the truck, and my electric brake controller inside the cab was on. I unplugged the controller from the fuse panel and the controller light went out but the 3rd brake light was still on. I couldn't find a fuse, so I removed the bulbs. Where I would start to find the problem.
I broke my emergency brake cable on my 2000 chevy silverado. It broke before the cable splits to two wires to go to the two rear tires. I would like to know if this is something I can handle myself. My biggest question is how I get access where the wire attaches to the pedal itself.
View 2 RepliesMy 89 240 is a project car so I am just fixing everything up as new until it's all done.
Replaced the Brake Booster with a fully reconditioned one, a new master cylinder, full pressure bleed, new pads. Now I have fantastic brakes but they feel super spongy still . As an example, I make an emergency stop to check if they are ok and after stopping just fine , the pedal still wants to go down further. I have checked all the flexible lines for ballooning and they are ok .
My old 1997 Dodge Caravan (150k miles) has weak brakes. During normal driving, it needs more pressure on the pedal to brake normally, than any other car that I have driven. This would be ok as I can push hard on the pedal... But the problem is that, past some point, I get no additional braking power no matter how hard I push.
So in case of an emergency, I cannot come anywhere close to lock the wheels (and this car does not have ABS). So basically, the braking power is proportional to how hard I push, up to a point where the braking power remains the same no matter how hard I push. At that point the pedal is maybe 1/3 down, still very far from the floor.
I have just replaced the front pads and rotor with no improvement. And when the engine is not running, the pedal gets really hard after I depress the brakes 3 times, indicating that the booster is doing something. The car will stay in the driveway for now as this is a dangerous situation.
Replaced my rotors and pads and I still do not like the braking feel as I apply constant pressure to the pedal. No matter what I do, I cannot apply even or consistent pressure to pedal and get the car to slow down smoothly or in a linear way. It feels like some power assist component applies varying force to the calipers no mater how slowly or quickly I try to slow the car down. It just isn't smooth like other cars I own. The brake pads grab fine, no warped rotor issues. Does your car brake smoothly from 40 MPH to 0? Is there some power assist unit that may be going out?
View 2 RepliesI have only 42k km or 26 k miles. Brake stops but soft. The brake pedal sink if you apply pressure after a stop. Feels like someone open a valve. The pedal go to very low. I am find the stopping power is poor. Brake fluid is brownish. I hope it is not the master cylinder.
View 20 Replies