Silverado :: 2000 - Bogs Out And Backfires When First Started
Nov 20, 2015
I have a 2000 Silverado z71 5.3l my problem is intermittent bogging/backfiring after startup. The truck starts fine every time but it is when you put it in gear and hit the gas it stumbles and backfires through the intake for the first minute or so. If I baby the throttle it will eventually clear up and run fine after about a mile. It does this cold most of the time but often does it warm also. Fuel pressure is good it has been tuned up I cant find any intake leaks. After it clears up it seems to run fine but it is really irritating when I go to pull out of a gas station in traffic and I have to pull over and wait 30 to 60 seconds of idle then it runs normal.
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OK...When I leave in the morning and the ambient temperature is cool the truck runs fine. When I leave work and the temperature is warm to hot the truck backfires through intake, pings bad, has a miss and a surge and no power. There is no CE light, this is about to drive me nuts. I was just hoping (doubting) but hoping someone else might have had this problem so I don't just have to start replacing things until it's fixed.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S.
When ever it is idleing and i hit the gas it bogs like its going to stall but then revs up. Difficult to get out of first because of the bog might stall it. My check engine light came on and it said rich fuel as well as oxygen sensor. Do the oxygen sensor would cause this because their are 2 and are expensive if I change it and turns out not to be the prob.
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I have recently bought a 2000 Grand Prix GTP sedan it has the 3.8 series 2 supercharged I believe it's the m90 supercharger when I bought the car I replaced tie rod ends gas tank fuel filter plugs ( AC Delco professionals) and plug wires ( dura last ) plastic elbows for coolant Water pump harmonic balancer and did and ac bypass because it had locked up on me and in doing so ruined the harmonic balancer I run nothing but 93 octane fuel but I'll get to the point when I had bought the car it sat for a year and It had no problems building boost that seemed evident anyways but not when I build boost there is a loss of power like a miss if I go to wot and hold it while it's doing this the SES light will come on and flash at me.
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2002 Hyundia Accent -- 1.6 DOHC 2D
When I get to 2700-2900 RPM Under load my car will chug out (basically lose power all together for a brief second) then it will come back and chug out again. I am able to max out RPM's while doing this however under load it still chugs along. WHEN not under load it rev's up fine and purr's like a kitten.
So I went and got a new motor for this car same model as was in the car before a 1.6 DOHC. However upon replacing it (also attached still was the timing belt and clutch assembly, never taken off)
So it seems to be getting spark just fine. and I replaced the MAP sensor thinking it was a intake issue however still problem exists when I am under load between 2700 - 2900 RPM it bogs out for a second losing all power.
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My friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).
17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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So last weekend I installed a transgo kit for my 4R100 transmission in my 2000 F250 diesel. I didn't really care about getting a shift kit, but I had problems with delayed shifts and figured the accumulator springs had broken. It turns out that was correct, the 2nd gear spring came out in 8 pieces.
Anyway, the transmission shifts great now, but when I put it in reverse it the engine jumps up 200 rpm and then it bogs down as it engages reverse forcefully. It also does this while selecting 1st from Park.
From what I'm reading it's the TC not unlocking and/or a fluid pressure/volume issue. I've also read the filter might have fallen off, I had a hell of a time keeping it in place. I've checked the the fluid level and everything is good there. My question is when I drop the pan, aside from the filter, what should I look for?
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I have a 2000 Silverado with the 5.3L V8, 138K miles, it never leaked oil until an oil change a few months ago, it started leaking right after the change, like night and day. There is nothing wrong with the filter I have removed it and tried a new one. I have replaced the valve cover gaskets and still have a leak. I have read where the 5.3 Vortec has inherent problems with oil pan and rear main seal gaskets. The oil is dripping on both sides of the oil pan toward the drain plug and at the seam between the tranny bell housing and rear of motor block, so it's not confined to just one side of the pan.
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I have a new problem that I only discovered a few days ago. As I come to a stop at a traffic light, turning out of somewhere or whatever if I give the car a little more gas than normal not that I punch it or anything from a stop the car bogs down and bangs a little rough like I was rear ended. The car is in drive when it happens. Its just fine any other time. I was told it could be as simple as a bad tps or as bad as a defective torque converter or tranny. Its a 2005 gls hatchback with the 1.8L. also, the engine has been running a little rough recently too if that could have anything to do with it. No warning lights are on either.
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I am having an issue with a Ford f250, 5.4L, granted this problem existed before and after new A/C compressor, dryer, evaporator, vent door switch, blower motor resistor, new evac and recharge, good pressures no leaks.........Now my problem is the truck runs perfect but when the ac engages at idle the engine bogs down and it seems the clutch is constantly engaging and disengaging........AC blows cold, no issues there, does this sound like an IAC valve problem????
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Tranny died 12000 miles ago and shop rebuilt tranny with new torque converter.
Problem then and now is after long freeway run 60+miles it dies and bogs down with any shift change. If it is placed in 2nd it will bogg down and die. If the tranny auto shifts it also dies. If it cools or just sits it will run again for a while. This does not happen always so it is hard to duplicate it.
Truck is not towing or even loaded most of the time and only once was it loaded when it died, the first rebuild. Truck has 249000 miles, ex v10.
So any clues as to what the shop missed last time and is it worth rebuilding again. Truck is only worth a bit more than the cost of shop time.
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I've got a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 and 135,000 miles. The other day it was driving fine then i stopped and got gas and after that it was boggy and running rough so i thought bad gas but i ran through that gas and got more at a different store. The cel came on i got it checked it was misfire cylinder 1 so i put new cop, spark plug, and injector. Unhooked the battery and then the light came back on so i ran the code and now im getting a p0171. I checked the pcv and sprayed around the intake and vacuum lines. I also checked the pcv hose and elbow in the back and i found nothing its a fairly new hose. So, it does run rough it shutters a lot.
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I was at the bank today and when I put it in reverse to back out, the car jolted and then it rolled forward slightly while at the same time sounding like there was grinding. I immediately put it back into park and the noise stopped. Then I tried to reverse again and it started making a clicking and whining noise and wouldn't back up. It sounded like it went into gear but it won't move. I was able to get it pushed out and the drive still worked. So I was going down the road and got up to speed and the shifting was significantly delayed.
It's an automatic by the way. So I tried to take it on the highway and it won't shift out of 2nd gear or 3rd. I know for a fact that overdrive isn't working so i'm doing 50mph down the road and hitting 2500 RPM. I don't know what the deal is but for about 8 months there has been a rumbling vibration when it tries to go into overdrive and when I accelerate quickly I force it to downshift and the rumbling goes away but it still shifted into overdrive when it got passed the rumbling and vibration. It's a 1997 C1500 2WD 5.7L Silverado.
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drl headlights always burn instead of running lights when the truck is started. How can I correct it?
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So around September I changed my oil to mobile 1 extended performance full synthetic. Since then my check engine oil level light has came on twice, today being the second time. Both times it was at the add mark. The truck does not leak ANY oil, what might be going on?
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So I have A 2000 Chevy and i keep getting a code saying i have a misfire on cylinder 8. i have replaced the spark plug, i have replaced the coil. this code is still showing up. what else could this be?
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 replaced calipers, master cylinder, and ABS Pump/Modulator. Bled all four calipers. Brake pedal spongy and has very little pressure and travels all the way to the floor. What am I missing here?
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I have a 2000 4X4 1500. Twice now I have been driving on the highway around 60 and when I pass over a rough area, the wheels bounce all over the place. After the first time, I replaced the shocks. But it happened again. The tires are new, and are balanced a rotated every 5000 miles.
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4.8 liter v8. On my drive to work this morning the headlights and the cluster light shut off and the security light illuminated and has been on ever since . The truck will crank and run fine I have brake lights and turn signals and reverse lights. I have read that this problem can usually be traced back to the body control module. I located the TBC fuse under the hood and it was blown. so I replaced it with another 10 amp fuse and it blew immediately after I inserted it. So I am thinking if I am able to rule out a ground or bare wire somewhere then the module itself may just have to be replaced.
The next question I have is due to the security light staying on in the cluster all of the time. Assuming that I can continue to drive the truck while waiting to have the BCM replaced I would only need to ensure that I did not drive after dark as I have no headlights. But I am concerned that the security light being on all of the time will drain my battery. Do the security light remaining on will in fact drain the battery? And if so, is there a way to disable the cluster and door security light so that I may continue to drive it and not have to come home and disconnect the negative cable every
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When parked and you shift between P to D or R loud engagement of transmission. Thought it was u joints, buddy says both look good/sound good when engaging P D R. Also shifts hard between 1-2-3 intermittently. I did read that it could be the TCC regulator valve?
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