Silverado :: 2000 5.3 / Check Engine Oil Level?
Feb 23, 2014
So around September I changed my oil to mobile 1 extended performance full synthetic. Since then my check engine oil level light has came on twice, today being the second time. Both times it was at the add mark. The truck does not leak ANY oil, what might be going on?
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I just change my oil last night and this morning my check engine oil level is on and my oil dipshows the correct amount of oil, what can be the problem?
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recently my check engine light came on, I had the codes read, the tech said that i had air getting into my fuel system, i replaced my gas cap. my light is still on, he also mentioned some kind of emissions sylinoid may need replaced, or a vent valve idk.
I recently drove up to Sandusky OH for the weekend, my light didnt come on til i refuled with gas containing 15% enthenol. the engine is running fine, no miss, has good power. I ran it down to a 1/4 of a tank and filled back up and the light is still on.
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I have an 05 silverado 1500 crew cab z71 and i have a little bit of an issue with my Check Engine Light being on. The problem is when I tried to pull the code from the computer it wouldn't even read that it was plugged in at all. I talked to a buddy of mine and he said that could possibly be the reason its on.
What I am trying to figure out is what i have to do to remedy the situation so that i can actually be able to pull codes in the future. My truck inspection is out and need this light fixed.
Also every once in a while my battery light comes on and it says i need to service my charging system also because I have never seen it before.
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I have a 2003 silverado 1500 4x4. The check engine was on along with the abs light. I went to advance and let them tell me what was going on. I don't know the specific code but it said the passenger front abs speed sensor was bad so I replaced it along with new brakes, rotors and calipers. Now the abs, check engine and red brake light is on. There is also a message telling me that the brakes need serviced. I went back to advance and let them tell me once again why those lights were on and it was still the passenger speed sensor bad. What could be going on with it? Before it was replaced the red light never came on but now it is.
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1996 Silverado 350 engine. When I turn ignition key on, all system check lights come on as they should except "check engine soon". If I connect code reader the light comes on and will come on the next time ignition is turned on but only one time. The second time you try it, it does not. What would cause this?
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Ok so I just replaced my mass air flow sensor about a week ago. My check engine light just came back on and when I scanned it it said mass air flow sensor. What could be causing this to happen again? The codes are P0102, P0440, P0440.
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First of all, its 5.7L V8, it's been very well maintained, I've had my fair share of problems but nothing that has been that serious, except for the "check engine" light for the O2 sensor.
For about the last 4 months i've had the problem of the truck sometimes jerking while on the road. Once i started to speed up it seemed to not speed up which when it did, it jerked a bit. That was in the beginning.
AS OF NOW, the jerking has stopped but every now and then when i pull out of the garage and start to turn onto road it turns off, but all the status lights are left on. & when turn the key to turn it off and restart it starts again every time. Ive noticed that i was better off with the "check engine" light on then now because every time it is off it has these problems.
Also, when I barely start to tap the brake, again not all the time, sound skips on the radio. & this always happens when i tap on the brake & this happens more frequently when the "check engine" light is off.
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I just bought this used truck, 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 extended cab. I noticed some shaking while in idle when I got it back home. The check engine light came on a day or two later, and I recently had a diagnostic test ran on it at the local AutoZone. It came up that I had a P0135 o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) malfunction and a P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor signal performance issue. The check engine light comes and goes. I stopped by Walmart for about 10 or 15 minutes and when I got back into the truck, the issues reoccurred. For about a minute, the check engine light actually started blinking! And then went away and started running normal again. Its upper confusing. I bought some MAF cleaner to use on it tomorrow and figured that wouldn't definitely clear up my issues, but I'm still wondering if the MAF sensor is enough to warrant the CEL to blink like that?!
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I've read the pages on engine oil level and changes in the awesome 2004-2009 manual by John's Stuff - Toyota Prius and more.
Great information on overfilling of engine oil. Among others I read:
"The ideal level is 1/4” (one-quarter inch or 6 millimeters) below the "full" mark, which is between the D and the E on the photo above." (p.27)
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I just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
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I don't know what would be considered a normal amount of oil to be used between changes but my 08 w/5.3l seems to be going through too much. Since I've had the truck,about 7.5 months, I've changed to oil once converting it over to Amsoil. When I changed it I noticed the level was lower than what I expected on the dipstick, like 2 quarts low and the oil life meter is showing it's almost time for another change but I had to add a quart about 3 weeks ago because it was down.
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I have a 2001 chevy silverado 3500 6L gasoline engine.
I have been getting a P0307 random multiple misfire #7 on and off for a few months now, occasionally the P0300. Check engine light comes on when I am going up hills, often under heavy load and sometimes when the truck is cold in the morning and the truck starts to run rough until the code clears, which it does pretty quickly usually. I have replaced coil, crank sensor, cam sensor, fuel injectors. If I unplug the battery overnight the code will be cleared and the truck will be running just fine the next day.
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I have a 2001 Silverado and for some reason all the dash lights on come from check engine to the abs light gas gauge goes to empty then back to normal 9 times out of 10 these lights come on. It has done this for a while and doesn't effect how it drives, I am possibly wanting to sell it and cannot explain hat it runs fine with this problem. Where do I start to figure this problem out .
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So I recently bought a Chevy Impala with about 150,000 miles on it. The check engine light is on and sometimes it will tell me my coolant levels are low. I filled it up with coolant and the message still comes on sometimes. Also, when I'm driving, I can feel my rpms go way up when I press the gas, but they car won't accelerate for shit. Sometimes the check engine light will blink, which I've heard is for safety, and my car will barely accelerate at all. I can drive it around town easily the way it is now, but I don't want to risk ruining it. On top of that, my radio and lights will cut in and out sometimes and get better the more gas I give it.
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I have a 1998 chevy silverado z/71 4x4. I had a water leak and had the intake manifold gaskets replaced. Ever since then, the check engine light comes on and it soots up the o2 sensors and the 4 plugs on the right bank. It may run good for a month or so and then it starts all over again.
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I recently got a used 2000 silverado 1500 ext. cab with a short bed. Has a 5.3L engine. I noticed it has vibrations at highway speeds. I thought it was the crappy tires on it so I had all the tires replaced and balanced. Now it has all new tires and does the same thing. Runs really smooth all the way up to 40mph and then the vibrations begins. It is mostly felt in the steering/dash and pedals. A little more pronounced on accel. but vibrates if your on the gas on not.
Once your reach 65mph, the vibrations stop. I have also noticed that asphalt makes it vibrates more. When I go over concrete overpasses in the problem area of 40 to 65mph it smooths out. I took a look under the truck and saw nothing obvious. U joints feel tight and no play, seen it had weights which appeared welded onto the one piece drive shaft.
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Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. so I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work and worked in a shop in high school. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
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So I changed my plugs and wires on my truck a few days ago and now every time I turn my key on a loud electrical noise comes from the engine. I thought it was the front right plug so I changed it. That went great for one day, then the same problem reoccurred. Done this many times never encountered such a problem. It will run obviously weaker than previously. 2000 Chevy Silverado5.3l vortec 4x4136,000 miles....
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It's a 99 Passat 1.8 T
The last time it was checked: Last year around March-April
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I have added a quart of recommended oil per the manual (the dipstick is now reading optimal oil). The warning is still on. What actions can be taken and what was the outcome? I am assuming that if the warning is not gone in the morning the sensor is bad.
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