Silverado :: 1999 - Loud Popping / Clanking / Knocking Noise Comes From The Rear Of Truck While Turning
Jun 1, 2012
More times than not now, when making a sharp left turn and sometimes a left turn in general, a loud popping/clanking/knocking noise comes from the rear of my truck. I can feel it in the steering when it's about to do it. The steering wheel will become stiff when turning left and when I straighten up it will pull to the right (just got the truck aligned so I don't think that's a problem). Rear left tire will spin like its struggling to spin. After all that I can make a hard turn right and "pop" everything will seem to go back to normal. 1999 Silverado Z71 5.3l ....
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I recently started hearing a pop/knocking noise when I'm turning at low speeds (0-10mp) only. I've already done a search but most of what I found dealt with installing new springs and/or coilovers. The thing is, I only started hearing it a day or two after I installed my rear sway bar. I've gone under a couple if times to readjust the sway and put it back on thinking I might have torqued it too tight or too loose. After I did that, the noise would go away for about a few days but then it comes back again?
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My girlfriends 06 Sonata 4cyl threw a p0011 code a week or so ago. I looked online and saw that it could be dirty oil so I immediately changed it (it was about 400 miles overdue at that point). I also looked on the forums here and was referred to a thread that suggested replacing the oil control valve. My girlfriend drove to work a few times before I fixed it (maybe a 100 miles total) and the car stalled out in the middle of an intersection. I then replaced the OCV and to my discontent the problem was still very present. Very loud knocking or clanking under the valve cover and sluggish idle. Her mechanic now says that it is a job for a hyundai dealership and that it could be something as bad as a head or engine rebuild. What the problem could be?
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Just had my 2010 F150 in for a loud knocking noise when the truck has warmed up in drive and rpm up to about 800. I can't hear the noise when I disconnect the passenger side vtc selonoid. The Tech who worked on it has recommended replacing the motor. His troubleshooting on the ticket says he removed the coil from the number 4 cylinder and the noise he hears goes away. I just can't see that the motor is bad.
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Well, I tried this Death Wobble Kit on my Ford F350 Super Duty from a company called WC Motorsports. Had it installed at a Ford Dealership. DO NOT BUY this kit. Missing parts right out of the box. Also makes a horrible clanking noise after install. Piece of junk. Possible fix to one problem only to have multiple other problems:
1. Clanking Noise
2. Truck pulls to the left
3. Have to cut the factory subframe. (Never a good idea)
4. Changes the degree (not recommended by Ford)
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Just want to share a problem I recently noticed on my Tiguan. Its a 2010 4motion I bought March last year and currently has 19000km.
Lately I noticed it makes a clanking sound in the front area as I accelerate off a right turn. It always does it on right turns and on rare occasions on left turns as well.
It doesn't do it if I turn right coming from a complete stop and happens only when I slow down coming up to a right turn and it makes the sound as I accelerate.
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When the car is in a situation where there is a twisting force, such as entering an inclined driveway from an angle, a loud POP is sometimes heard from the rear of the car. The intensity of the POP varies dependent on speed and angle of incline, higher speed/greater incline/decline produce a louder POP.
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My wife just handed me her 2001 BMW X5(165,000 miles...new engine at 97,000) because they offered only $2000 on a trade-in. It still looks great - better than my Tundra with numerous whiskey blisters delivered by misbehaving cows. The Beemer tires are in good shape BUT the car has developed a loud knocking noise in rear end when you accelerate from a full stop (scares the heck out of you because it sounds like the backend is going to fall off). If you accelerate slowly it doesn't always knock, but other drivers try to run over you. Just had the air levelers repaired. My local mechanic thinks it is the drive shaft but not sure and won't touch it until something breaks or falls off. My question is - if it is the drive shaft and it falls off while driving - is this going to be a dangerous problem? Our mechanic doesn't seem too concerned and just doesn't want to tear it apart to check the noise. If possible (financially) I would like to repair it but will have to drive it to a bigger town to have it done. Or should we just throw in the towel and donate it to NPR?
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I have never seen a car with more electrical problems in my entire life. Everything is wrong with this thing. Driver door controls don't work. The only way to get the driver door to roll down is if i take the positive of my battery and put it back on, boom window rolls up and down for 10 mins and than stops working. It literally seems like if i take the positive off my battery it solves all my issues and everything works. The car wont even start in 15 degree weather. I don't even want to know how long it will take me to start this thing in -30 weather. Its got a very loud knocking noise in the right rear. I Haven't been able to go to school for a week cause the thing is stuck in my driveway.
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I have an '04 Suzuki Aerio, and there is a loud popping or knocking sound coming from the front of the car when I drive it. I don't seem to hear it when the car is inert (i.e. idling or traveling in a straight at a constant speed). I hear it intermittently when I accelerate/decelerate or turn. I hear it in drive and reverse. The strange thing is that it seems to go away completely when it is raining, and then come back when it stops raining and things dry out. It has been happening for a month or two. I think it has been gradually getting a bit louder. What could cause this?
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My 2002 4.8L Silverado recently started having this intermittent starting problem.
A few days ago I got in to start it, turned the key and nothing happened. Lights, radio and power locks all were working fine but engine would not crank or turn over. Turned the key off and on a few times and then the truck started fine.
It started fine for about 3 days. Then got in to start it the next day and this happened again. Turn the key and nothing. Lights, power locks, radio all working ok. Turned the key off and on multiple times but still nothing. So I cleaned the battery cable connections and fully charged the battery, even though it checked out ok. Tried it again and same thing was happening.
This time I looked at the ignition and starting relays under the hood in the electrical box. I swapped a few of them around, tried to start it each time and still nothing.
So I had the vehicle towed to the dealership to be checked. The next day the service man calls me to tell me when they went to check it, the truck is starting fine.
I am not sure if this is a starter problem, ignition switch problem or maybe the computer. The thing is, I can't drive it like this because it is no longer reliable.
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2010 with 61000 kilometers.
Yesterday morning it was a rainy and damp weather around 3-4 degrees Celsius when I started my Prius. Usually I start it up, get out and have a cigarette or something before driving so that the ICE has a minute or two to warm up. Immediately after the ICE fired up I heard a very loud clanking and vibrating sound. I immediately shut the car down, checked all fluid levels and read the codes. No codes, no warning lights. Fired it up again, same thing. This time I opened the hood and went to see what's going on. The ICE made this noise and vibrated like hell. After a few second though the clanking and vibrating slowly went away and it started to sound normal again.
Scared the living crap out of me! This hasn't happen before or since. I had like 2-3 40km drive cycles after that on the same day with no problems. The day before I had to move the car just a bit, and when doing that the ICE came on just before I turned the car off. No codes, no warning lights. First thing that comes to mind was a misfire that vibrated the engine like crazy, maybe due to the damp weather effecting spark plugs or a flooded cylinder that was due to the only a few seconds of engine running the day before.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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I have a 2011 F250 4x4 with 8000 miles. I put a 3.5" ReadyLift on it at 3500miles and Rancho dual stabilizers at 5000miles. This past week I've started to noticed my truck's steering making slight popping noises when turning the steering wheel. I crawled under the truck today and I can't pin point the orgin of the noise. It seems it is coming from higher up in the steering system possibly. It doesn't seem to be from the wheels or tie rod.
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I drive a '96 Infiniti I30, and recently the driver's side front wheel has started making a mysterious noise. It's not a grinding but a clicking/clanking noise. It's only present when I'm turning and accelerating. If I let off the gas it disappears. The other strange thing is that i can feel it in the gas pedal. I looked at some other discussions and the only thing that was similar was a bad CV joint. One last thing, if it is the CV joint how soon should i get it replaced?
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I bought a 1995 k2500 sheyenne. There is a rather loud high pitch grinding/ squeaking noise emitting from what I would say the rear right of the truck. I have completely replaced the brake shoes and new pins and springs. No luck. What I can say is:
1. It hardly gets any louder as I speed up.
2. Still screams when in neutral, as long as the truck is rolling.
3. Rear differential has plenty of fresh fluid when I bought it.
4. If i hit a good size bump, it will run quiet for about 15 seconds.
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My 2003 CRV has developed a "popping" or "knocking" noise that seems to come from the front end of the car. It doesn't happen all the time but seems to happen more and more. I've read it could be either a sway bar of CV joint issue? I've taken it to our Honda service center and they have checked it over and can't find anything wrong.
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My wife was driving the 1999 K3500 7.4 model ls crewcab truck home the other day and out of the blue it started running rough popping and back firing and lost power. It had a major tune up about 40,000 miles ago. It sometimes has a hard time cranking to start, but once it starts it idles really rough and pops and smells like it is running rich. I thought the distributor cap but it looks fine, could it be a sensor?
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My truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
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I bought a 2004 R32 in July. On mornings after it rains overnight or has been particularly humid I get a horrible popping sound when I drive forward or backwards. It is a reasonably slow sound only loosely tied to vehicle speed in a straight line. When turning it is very rapid which made me originally suspect the differential. Removing the Haldex fuse, turning off traction control, and dragging the brake pedal have no effect. Dragging the e-brake seems to stop it until I release it.
The only thing that fixes it is leaving the car running for a little bit. Sometimes it is 2 minutes, other times it might be 5 minutes. Monday when it did it I pulled over a little way from my house and waited. I heard the pop with the car out of gear and parked on level ground not moving. I started driving immediately and there were no more problems. This is the only time I heard something when it "fixed" itself. The popping sound is somewhat like a bad CV joint when you turn the wheel tightly.
The car will go a couple weeks without this happening if it is dry out. I have had a bunch of quattros, but this is my first Haldex which is why I suspect it. I have pulled codes and get nothing for the Haldex. When it is working it behaves perfectly. What to try? Alsobhow water got in my Haldex in the first place to make the milkshake? I am concerned it will happen again. The previous owner had it changed at the dealer in 2013.
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2001 vr6 manual... I have a popping noise that comes from my suspension. it is in the front, and it has gradually gotten worse over the last month or so. It used to happen when i back out of my drive way only, but now it happens when accelerating from a stop, quickly braking or turning at low speeds. Recently its getting worse and i can start to feel it in my steering wheel sometimes. It doesn't feel like a wheel bearing. Is it bushings? Tie rod? CV Joints? Strut Mount?
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