Silverado :: 1998 - Pertaining To Steering Stabilizer Sensor
May 4, 2008
I've read some past posts pertaining to the steering stabilizer sensor and from what I've gathered I would say that I have the same problem. I got under the dash to see where the sensor is and could not find it. Someone said that you could disengage the electrical plug on the steering pump and that would rememdy the situation until you could replace the sensor with a new one. I could not find an electrical connection on the PS pump either. Would this suggest that I do not have a sensor to start with?
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Today I noticed I broke my steering stabilizer shock. It it broke at the connection on the piston arm where it connects to the steering linkage and the piston shaft is bent. Guess it happened when I hit a rock Thursday. I am thinking of purchasing the Rancho 9000 adjustable shock as a replacement. I do not do much off road driving and what I do is very moderate. This is for a 04 Excursion, 4x4, 6.0PSD, with 285 all terrain tires, no lift.
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I'm looking to replace the worn out skyjacker or rancho steering stabilizers on the ex. Wanting to put bilsteins in there place. 5100 series to match the shocks for the truck. What are the part numbers for this setup?
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Trying to replace my steering stabilizer and in the process I broke the nut close to the steering box. Would not budge so used a bar and well I broke it. Now I can't pop it out am I doing something wrong? Here are a few pics. I'm totally bummed nothing seems to be working for me.
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Looking to replace the steering stabilizer on my 2008 F-250. It has a 6" lift and 37" tires.
Also, does "dual" mean better?
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Is this part covered by my premium care esp warranty? I thought that I read it was at one time might be mistaken.
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Will replacement of the original OEM steering stabilizer with a higher quality stabilizer tighten up my steering wheel play, making is more responsive?
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My 2002 250 just got ball joints, bushings, sway arms, 4 wheel alignment and new tires to top it all off. Did All this to correct the shakes, shimmies, popping and grinding in the front end. Now they say I need a steering stabilizer up front. Does any other than ford make a bolt on one and haw much and where can I get one.
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Recently replaced the steering stabilizer with Rancho RS5415 and all 4 shocks with the adjustable Rancho 9000XL. The death wobble at 40-60 mph on rough roads has not gone away. The truck rides much better, however the death wobble is violent enough to shake the change out of the change holder and the only way to stop it is to pull over and slow to 10-15 mph. The steering wheel also has slight vibration when going over smaller bumps such as expansion joints.
2011 KR 6.7L 4x4
47k miles (no ESP)
20" wheels with stock size tires
100% stock no lift or modifications
Never wrecked & most driving is on the highway. The tires show no signs of abnormal wear and the truck drives straight.
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So I'm interested in putting a new steering stabilizer on my truck and am pretty set on the Rancho RS7000 series, but I am torn between getting a single OEM replacement or the full dual stabilizer kit. Single replacement? Did it make a difference? I've heard really good things about the dual kit, but obviously the price difference is huge. I don't do a ton of off-roading, but I do drive constantly on crappy city roads which can be just as bad
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I'm wanting to get a single in-line steering stabilizer for my '05 F250 4x4, but I can't seem to find any that include brackets.
I don't need a dual setup because I'm not running a big lift or big tires, but I want an inline stabilizer so that I can just leave the stock one in place.
What is the part number for one that comes with the mounting brackets?
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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When my check engine light came on I hooked up the tool to see what code I would get. This is the code I'm getting which indicates a problem with the engine oil pressure sensor/switch circuit high voltage.
Question 1: is this a simple fix and about how much do you think this would cost at a Jiffy Lube or Walmart type place?I'm also concerned because the MIL is no longer on. I'm wondering if I could have cleared it off using the tool. This morning the engine light was no longer lit and my oil pressure guage is reading no pressure at all now.
Question 2: could it be possible to have no pressure? or like the code indicates it's just a matter of the sensor not reading the pressure?
Question 3: is it safe to operate the vehicle? I'm not going to have any money in my budget for at least another month.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.3L that I recently put a new engine in. The new engine will turn over but will not start. I am not getting any spark for some reason. The OBD2 code that keeps coming up says that the crankshaft position sensor is out of circuit. I have put in a new CKP sensor and new electrical connector, new spark plugs and wires, new distributor rotor and new ignition coil and still get the same OBD2 code and it won't start.
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Ok so I just replaced my mass air flow sensor about a week ago. My check engine light just came back on and when I scanned it it said mass air flow sensor. What could be causing this to happen again? The codes are P0102, P0440, P0440.
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Ok here is my problem i have a 99 Chevy Silverado LS 1500 5.3L. and i am having problems with egr codes coming up. I have been getting the P0405 EGR Sensor low circuit, i was told that my EGR was bad so i replaced it. ran fine for around 1-2 months and than the code came back on, talked with the guys where i bought it and they said that it could of been a faulty EGR so they replaced it. K so thats 2. 1-2 months down the road again same thing code pops up, talked with them replaced it again, number 3 so it did it again this time when i talked to them again they talked me in on getting the one better than the one i was using before and to buy a gasket with a screen. so thats #4. now today the code pops up again. This time codes P0405 came up and also P0404. oh and i should mention that i replaced the wiring plug also.
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I have a 1998 C1500 Silverado, with the 4.3 vortec engine, with 88k miles.
Upon initial acceleration the truck stumbles, sometimes even dies when taking off. I have had the codes read, and have gotten a P0102 and a P0404. I have swapped the MAF and EGR Valve out with a known good ones from the parts store; cleaned the throttle body; looked for vacuum lines that could be the problem but can't find anything.
I have even changed out the fuel filter since the engine sounds like it is starving.
Also, the transmission doesn't want to shift unless I let up on the acceleration pedal. I can get up to about 55 MPH and the RPMs sky rocket before it shifts, and the engine begins to ping before shifting.
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I had a slight head butting contest with a deer. My driver side AIR BAG BLEW OUT. I want to replace the air bag. ( I live in N.C. air bags are NOT required) so I don't care if it is functional. I just want it there un-blown, for looks. I've been told that a special tool is required to remove the old one ( and the one in a salvage truck I've located). What tool I need? Or what it might be called or where I can get one????
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
Read more: [URL] ....
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I have a 98 chevy silverado c1500 extended cab has 5.7 350,and i think a 4L60E transmission. Driving around town my truck shifts fine, but when i get on the highway for a little while it will start jumping hard from 1st to 2nd, but if i kill the truck and start it back up it will usually shift fine.
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I've got a 98 Silverado. Break lights and rear turn signals won't work but tail lights and reverse lights work. Also the brake light on the cab does work.
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