Silverado :: 1998 - Extreme Gasoline Fumes - Fuel System Pressurized?
Oct 27, 2014
I own a 1998 C2500 Silverado. Recently I started noticing extreme gasoline fumes. Took truck in to my local mechanic and found out the fuel pump module had come loose from the gas tank. My mechanic dropped the fuel tank to access the fuel pump module for repair and discovered that the fuel tank had caved in ( imploded ) the full length of the tank. I've been told the fuel system is pressurized. How does the pressurized system work and what could have caused deformation of the fuel tank?
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I have an issue with extreme high initial idle at start up. I took my 1998 Ranger with a 3.0L to the local dealer to have some work done about a month ago. Long story short, my number six plug wire got burned against the exhaust rail.
Anyway, I guess they re-flashed the computer to the newest *.bin, or flash version. After that when I start the truck the tachometer jumps up to 2200 - 2300 RPM and then it settles down to about 1500 after a moment or two, then it finally adjusts itself to about 1100 for a few more seconds and eventually ends up at 900 - 1000 RPM.
I confronted Ford about this and they said that Ranger's and F-150's do have a tendency to do that at start up. Ordinarily I wouldn't be too concerned, however I believe that the 2200 - 2300 RPM high idle at start up at 0 F, a bit much.
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I just changed the fuel pump on my 98 Isuzu Rodeo and now it wont start. The pump is getting power because i can hear it humming. Fuel is getting to the fuel rail, I checked the the shrader valve. I tested the battery and its fully charged but it wont start.
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I have a 2001 Lincoln LS V8 that runs rich and no one can solve the problem that's been going on for close to a year. The fuel sys pressure tests fine. The fuel regulator sensor has been replaced. First start in morning is normal but after that I need to give it gas to get it to turn over. Also, car has a fuel smell.
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I've been smelling gasoline fumes outside rear and sides of 2004 Malibu Maxx. No DTCs setting, although I left gas cap off while running, opened port of purge solenoid (also while engine running), and checked all fuses marked emissions. Dealer said they needed to charge $500 just to take tank down to check for leaks. Does not matter if it is cold or been running for an hour.
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For weeks I've been smelling gasoline fumes inside the car, usually when the weather is cold and when the car has been sitting overnight; sometimes while it is idling. Have had to car to my mechanic, who I have confidence in and who has done a good job with repairs in the past. He could not locate the source of the fumes.
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I drive a 2006 Accent. A few days ago the code 0496 popped up for evap system issues. The fuel tank is pressurized quite a bit and with the filler cap off you can hear air bubbling up through the fuel. Sounds like blowing air through a straw into a drink. It is constant and putting the cap back on it re-pressurizes quickly. I have never seen this before in any vehicle.
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I have a 98 honda crv. I live in Las Vegas and when the temp outside is over 100, like today, there are terrible strong fumes like strong dry cleaning fluid in the front right area of the car. This starts after the AC has been running for about 10-15 minutes. If you run the car longer than this, the fumes get worse inside the car, nauseating. I have had a mechanic tell me to replace the gas cap, but this did not work. This happens when the gas tank is empty or full or in between.
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I live in the suburbs, so I do a lot of stop and go driving. For the longest time, I would typically get 25 or 26 mpg city, as per the gauge. I would see the number climb to 41 or so in constant highway driving. I am pretty sure the fuel tank is about 10.5 gallons or so as when the low fuel light comes on, and there is only one bar left on the gas gauge, and I top up the tank, I never put more than about 9.5 - 9.8 gallons in.
All this being said, in the last few weeks I have seen a severe drop in MPG. The gauge is constantly reading about 19.5, when I hit the expressway it will climb a bit, but when I compare the miles driven to the bars on the gas gauge, the bars used to drop at about 20 miles driven, now each bar will drop at around 13-15 miles driven. We are having some extreme cold here in the midwest, as opposed to last winter when I bought the car.
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I got an error that shows my that my gas is leaking gas fume and the check engine light is on because of that so I was wondering if this is really oem.
[URL] ....
Same one I have on my car but was just wondering if that is really oem for my camry.
1 more thing is can someone link me to a fuel door because the current one I have right now makes a noise when you open the fuel door like it scraps the inside of the fuel door with the body so I need a new one that will have the same color as my car which is a gray phantom pearl.
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I've got a question about my 1998 Isuzu Rodeo LS. I've owned it for about a year and a half and I haven't had any complaints so far. However, about six months ago (you can see how quick I am to get on these things!) the car developed this little quirk. Whenever I get in the car and turn the key the car will try to start up but fails about half the time. It always starts on the second try but only sometimes on the first try. It seems to start easier right after I've filled up and is noticeably worse when I'm close to empty.
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic LX that was converted from automatic to 5 speed. It hesitates while I drive, only sometimes. Normally it does it when I am pulling off from a stopped position or when turning the corner and then accelerating. I will have my foot on the gas, but it won't gain speed unless I hold in the clutch and rev up the engine then it will pick up speed and go fine. Then sometimes it also hiccups while driving without accelerating, I can feel the car jerk a few times and start to loose power.
I will need to down shift to third, or most often 2nd gear and rev it again to gain power and to pick back up speed. Things done to it since i bought it only a few months ago by the person (who is a mechanic) I bought it from: oil change, fuel filter changed, Lucas gas treatment added (by me), new exhaust system installed, starter replaced. I am nervous that it may be rear-ended, or t-boned in heavy traffic. Should i have the fuel filter checked?
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I have '98 VW JETTA Wolfsburg and EVERY time after hard rain (cold OR warm weather), the next day my car is unable to start without giving it gas while turning the key. It only starts after a few tries AND it "bucks" when I give it a bit of the gas pedal early on (within 5-10 minutes) into the drive. After that time, it drives great like always. Just had the fuel system "cleaned" at a local oil change conglomerate, which yielded tons of white smoke out of the tailpipe.
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My 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
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I have a hesitation/stalling issue with my explorer. Started about 2 months ago and can't figure it out. It began with truck feeling like gas wasn't getting to it and it was kicking as if it were getting it, but not at the right times. Asked around was told the throttle body positioner may be going bad as well as fuel filter might be getting clogged. Replaced both and it seemed like it worked as it felt like it was driving ok, but it was all in town driving. Took to interstate and began kicking again. Then, it started to misfire?? or lose power in town and would stall at lights and or turns. Talked to some other people and said it might be my Intake air control valve and or gaskets are leaking from the upper/lower intake.
I got new IAC and got new gaskets and cleaned lower intake and changed oil as well. It ran great for about a day or 2. Got it on HWY and around town and it was great. Now runs absolutely horrible. Feels like it stutters when it idles and when I push gas pedal I get the smell of gas and it wants to die. When pulling off upper lower intake unnoticed that the long screw to upper intake weren't all the way down in the back. I made sure to bolt them down tightly. I was told today to try and reset the computer by detaching the negative battery cable and using a wire to attach that detached cable to the power cable. Then to reattach, turn key to get accessories going for 10 sec, start and idle for te min, turn on lights for about 1 min, followed by radio and then ac. Then test drive for 10min or so. This may have made it worse??
I'm not a mechanic by any means but believe I hooked up everything correctly as it ran great for a day or 2. Also, a bit back I had P0107 bank one lean code pulled up. No engine light has ever come on. Have not had it rescanned since I replaced IAC and gaskets. Just don't know where to turn next. I also cleaned MAF, put in new air filter. 1998 explorer 4.0 SOHC....
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1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
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My '10 Golf TDI started leaking gasoline this morning, found smallish puddle in the garage. Looked underneath and there was definitely fuel on the underside of the tank. Moved the car into the driveway so the leaking fuel can evaporate.
Not sure what happened. I did hit something on the highway yesterday, a piece of tire from a semi went underneath the car. Of course it's been really hot 100+ deg lately. Maybe a fitting has come loose?
I'm not going to risk driving it, but can't do anything about it until monday. I'll call the shop and see what they recommend, tow or drive.
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I just read in Reader's Digest that some can improve gas mileage by 25% by not putting their car in reverse. This seems like an exaggeration, how can putting a car in reverse be that bad.... like 25% bad? Source: [URL] .....
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I used to get really good mileage on my 12.5 mile commute, if I didn't reach 50 miles per gallon, I considered it a poor commute. But over the last several hundred miles, I have only averaged about 45 miles per gallon - sometimes I'm not even reaching 40 mpg. I checked my tires, they are fine. I also notice that the gasoline engine is running a lot. I'll be at a stop sign, and the battery is nearly full, but the gas engine is running.
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I have a 1996 Geo Prizm, with about 126K miles. I bought it last May, at around 120,000 miles and had no problems with it until recently, other than some minor issues with the power steering in November. In November, it started making a squeaking or grinding noise whenever I went around a sharp turn. It turned out that the power steering fluid was slightly low, so I added more and that was the end of that problem. But I also found out that the previous owner had put the wrong kind of power steering fluid in. Starting about 2 weeks ago, the car started making a squeaking or squealing noise. There would be no squeaking when I started the car, but then it would start when I turned. It is only audible when the engine is idling, and I'm not sure if it is squealing at other times, too.
I figured it was probably one of the belts, probably the power steering belt. However, I checked it and it seemed to be tight enough and did not appear cracked or glazed. A friend of mine who knows much more about cars than I do also checked the power steering, alternator, and A/C compressor pumps for me, and he said they seemed fine. About the same time the squeaking started, I noticed the car seemed to be burning a lot more fuel than usual. I have filled up the gas tank twice since then. Typically, throughout this winter, the car has gotten 33-36 miles per gallon. But on the last tank, it only got 25 MPG and it got 29 MPG on the tank before that. There has been no change in my driving habits to explain this. The engine also sounds slightly rough when it is idling, almost like a diesel engine, but no louder than the car usually sounds. My friend who checked the belts listened to it when it was idling, and he thought he heard a slight knocking sound, which I heard too.
I noticed no decline in performance: the car accelerates just as quickly as ever, and performs the way it always has. The power steering seems to function just fine, despite the squeaking. I thought that perhaps there was something wrong with the timing belt, and that might explain both the squeaking and the increased fuel burn. But I looked online at a few websites, and it sounds like timing belts usually don't show any symptoms when they are wearing out, they usually just fail without much warning. Also, when I bought the car, the previous owner said the timing belt was replaced at around 90K, so it should be fine for a while. I am at a loss as to what might be wrong with the car. I wonder if the squeaking and the increased fuel burn are caused by the same problem, or if there might be separate problems causing each.
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