Silverado :: 1997 Chevrolet Z71 4x4 Truck Will Not Turn Over
Jan 28, 2013
I have a 1997 Chevrolet Z71 4x4 truck. 350 engine.
This morning I went to start the vehicle and it cranks fine but doesn't turn over. It cranks at a normal speed and then every second or so struggles, and then cranks normally again. About 2 weeks ago I went to start it and the starter didnt engage, it just spun. I released, tried again and it started right up. It did that twice over about two weeks. I figured the starter had gotten too weak, so I replaced.... No change.
The truck has been running quite rough for a little while, and I was doing research to replace the valves and sensors that were recommended (EGR and Idle Air Valves), but the truck seems to have decided that I will do this maintenance now, whatever it is. By running rough, I mean, when it idles, it shakes some. Going down the highway, it runs fine and doesn't miss or anything like that. It is sluggish, but it is a 16 yr old truck with 230000 miles, so it just seemed somewhat normal.
I have checked for spark, and verified that. I can smell fuel when I crank, so I don't think its a fuel problem, although tomorrow I will see if it will fire off starter fluid to verify. I have had the rotor go out before, but it seems when it did that it didn't stagger when I crank.
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I have a 97 2500 454 it dies like you trun the key off, but there is still power to turn the engine over but the truck wont start, and after a couple of tries it will start. It might go for a week and not do it or it might go a couple of miles.
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I have a Chevrolet Silverado 3500 1 ton diesel truck. The truck will periodically burn out glow plugs. I have changed glows multiple times and used different types. I have changed the glow plug controller and the coolant temperature switch with no change. I have checked all fuses and they are good. Checked voltage and the correct voltage is present. Why this is happening?
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The truck is a 1997 chevy silverado 3/4 ton. Newer battery.Pulled away from curb a few nights ago and it died electrically-so power-no lights -no engine-zip-Jumped it -ran fine another 10 feet then completely dead electrically. Battery shows 13 volts-jumped it again and parked it - when it died I could here a faint electrical noise but no lights or power of any short.
Next day towed to dealer who cannot reproduce the failure after starting it many times and a test drive.I'm thinking new battery cables and cleaning the grounds. I have zero faith in this thing now and I need to haul 10 tons in two weeks with it. It was a complete electrical shut down twice in a row- Never made it 30 feet. If it was alternator the battery would have kept the cap light going-battery is fine -6 month old interstate. I need to track down.
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I have a 1995 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext. Cab Z71 4x4 that I've had since '97. Last year it started over-heating, the temperature stays exactly where it is supposed to when I'm running down the highway, but starts to over-heat when I slow down to make a turn (up to about 230), but cools back down at an idle. The Truck has a standard 5.7L TBI 350
Trying to remedy this problem I've changed the thermostat 4 times (with a 160, 180, and 195), changed the radiator, changed the map sensor (thinking that it might be leaning the fuel out to much), changed both temperature sensors, replaced the water pump 3 times (the 3rd time I ordered a Flowcooler waterpump from Summit), changed the instrument cluster and computer thinking it might be electrical, replaced the catalytic converter (thinking it might be restricted), I even replaced every hose on the motor, I then installed a brand-new GM 5.7L 350 crate engine but it did the same thing.
After installing the new engine I replaced the knock sensor, the O2 sensor, changed the throttle body (with one from another motor i had for my son's '94), replaced the distributor, replaced the injectors, checked and made sure there wasn't and blockage in the center intake, cut the exhaust at the catalytic converter just to make sure there was no restrictions.
I recently tried a manual temp gauge just to see if the motor was actually getting hot, which it is.
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97 Silverado - 5.7 with 4l60e trans. truck will not shift into 2nd gear while driving. stays in first gear until rpm are high and shifts into 3rd. under hard acceleration will stay in 1st until let off gas then shift into 3rd. manual shifting results in same, no 2nd gear until selector is moved into 3rd then shifts into 3rd. Haven't got any trans codes, fluid change netted no change in performance, fluid was pretty dirty but didn't smell burned, and there were no metal shavings in pan.
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For the past 2 months or so, my brakes sound like a horn when I get close to a full stop. The pads are about 7 months old. Brake fluid is good. Oil isn't fresh but I changed it about 9 months ago. 1997 Chevy Silverado C1500 2WD 5.7L.
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Replaced the condenser and manifold on a 1997 chevy silverado and drew a vacuum on the system, when adding freon to the system the first can pushed the pressure up to 70 PSI on the low side and it has stayed there.
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I have a 1997 Siverado with a 5.7L,auto trans. The truck has 162,000 miles on it . This it the first problem to come up since buying truck a year ago. All I know about this truck is that old owner took very good care of truck and did all the maintenance every 3,000 miles . He told me that he just replaced fuel pump and battery 1 year ago.
Well I noticed that the starter was dragging so I bought a new OEM, NOT the cheap ones priced at 59.99 . WOW! what a difference,worked like new.
Well 5 days go by and everything seems fine intil driving on freeway about 65 mph my truck seems to have a slight misfire and it did throw a code .
I had the code checked and code was a misfire code. All I did was change spark plugs and clear code. Everything seems fine for about 2 days and the truck starts to feel like it misfired a few times but did not throw a code.
I park my truck over night in my driveway over night,and in the morning I go to start the truck and it just cranks, does not turn over. So I crank over and over again. After a min of cranking ,sounds like starter got jammed ,MADE A clunk noise. I did hear some small back fires in mufflers . So I let it sit for a while and got some starting fluid and sprayed into TB and put everything back together and try again,it just cranks and has small back fires in the mufflers not loud at all.
Now it seems that I may have hurt my new starter . The starter engages and just cranks the engine for 2 seconds and then sounds like the starter motor is not engaged and just spins. I take the starter off to have it tested at local auto parts store . They say starter is in good condition. Pass their test.
So I put starter back on and it does same thing. Now it looks like I have 2 problems now. Do the battery has gotten to low on amps or volts? I can hear the fuel pump come when I turn the key to the on position,and then it turns off 2 or 3 seconds later.
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The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
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My brother's truck is a 1997 , 5.7 L gas engine, fuel injected. 100k+ miles.
New plugs, wires, new rotor, coolant temp sensor & air filter & recent battery.
Started a few times after the new air filter & some dry gas & fuel injector cleaner & that was the last time it started.
Turns over but will not run! He needs this truck to tow a trailer to R/C boat shows (he makes parts for R/C racing boats).
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1997 Chevy C2500 silverado... Ok, so when i go to turn my truck on she'll sit there and chug as it starts. usually a few seconds and then roars up just fine. However I've noticed a couple of distinct things. 1. when it does start i see a second or three of black exhaust come from the tail pipe. 2. if its been started recently. IE within 24 hrs it has problems. but if i leave it over a weekend then the first start has no problems. 3. Last weekend we replaced the Fuel filter and the first few starts there was significantly less problems starting but after 5 starts its back to doing it again.
I checked and the fuel pump does work, I've tried changing the fuel filter ( #2 above), and put sea foam into the gas tank hoping to clean out any gunk in the lines somewhere. It does turn on and when it does it runs great so i know its not having electrical problems as well as the alternator is charging like normal.
Im about to take it in for an oil change and see if that does anything, and I'm praying its not a clog in the Catylitic converter.
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I have a 97 3/4 ton Chevy truck with 136K miles on it. The problem I have is that the truck is slow to crank when it is warm but when the engine is cool like in the morning or when it has cooled after 2hrs or so the engine turns over fine. I put a new battery in it last summer. I was just wandering could it be my starter.
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Several years ago I had to replace the fuel pump - truck had about 100,000 miles. Within the last 4 - 5 months I have replaced the fuel pump twice and just today (about two months since the last replacement), the fuel pump has failed again. That has been the pattern now for the last several months. I have had the work done by one of the reputable car repair shops in town - they have also done work on my 2004 Impala with no issues with the repair. There must be something else going on besides just the fuel pump going bad. What would cause so many fuel pump failures.
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A couple of weeks ago my truck wouldn't start. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and when that didn't work I took it to a mechanic. At first it wouldn't start for him either. After move the truck inside he tried to crank it again and it fired right up. He said he didn't want to replace something if he wasn't sure what it was. Today it wouldn't start again. I bought some noid lights as suggested on line and tested one of the injector connectors and it did not light up. I realize that the injectors are not getting the needed "pulse". Whole thinking about what to do next I noticed that there was a broken wire. The wire is going to a really small looking box of some sort that is attached to the engine close to the injector at the front of the engine. What the wire is for and I am really not sure what to do next. I will try to upload a picture...
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If I turn on my ignition switch and my gauges go to where they're supposed to be, the truck will crank. If I turn switch and , lets say gas needle for example, the needle goes to full then drops back to empty, the engine will turn over but will not crank.
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Own a 1997 F-150, 4.6 L, 4 x 4. I know it's old but it's in very good body shape, has been undercoated for years. I've only had it for a year. This summer it began to not start (intermittently). The dash lights all come on but the starter will not engage. Brought to my local garage, he changed the starter and the ground cable from the battery.
Was ok for a few months and now it's beginning to do the same thing. Brought it back to him, can't find anything. He did say that the battery is a bit weak, the terminals are spotless (I keep them spotless, coat them with white grease). I measured the voltage with the engine stopped and with it running. Stopped, the voltage is 11.94, running it is 14.87. This clearly shows that the battery is weak.
My question is would this cause the starter to not engage after 4 or 5 turns of the key and then on the 6th try, the starter turns over? I don't want to spend more money ($ 450) the last time and have the same result. If it's possible it's the battery, I'll replace it no problem.
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Our son has a 97 Chevy C/K pickup truck and told me about a problem that I thought was easy to solve, and we tried, but it wasn't. The driver's side front turn signal flashes fast. I checked the rear lights on that side and the turn signal wasn't working at all, let alone the tail lights, so I replaced the bulbs. They're the kind with the 2 filaments. I noticed the old bulbs were covered with some nasty yellow corrosion. Now the turn signal problem is the same and still no brake light on that side but he has tail lights at night. I tried to clean up the corrosion in the circuit board (none on the bottom light, which is the reverse light) with a neighbor's wire brush but it didn't change anything, so he suggested I change the circuit board.
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My 1997 chevy suburban wouldn't start after being parked for a few days. the battery seemed to drained out so quickly and not because the lights were left on. The alternator was replaced less than two years ago. and the battery less than a year ago. I tried to jump start but it did now turn orver. What is the problem?
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1999 f150 4.2l v6.. The anti theft system has kicked in and my truck won't turn over, the stereo won't turn on, the lights don't work. How can I fix this?
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I have a 1997 ford f150 V-6 4.2. My son was driving the truck on the expressway and it quit running. The toe truck has delivered the truck back to my house. The engine turns over but will not start. I shot gas into the engine with a spray bottle and the engine still would not start. Was going to check the coil for spark next. What to check first. Was thinking the problem could be the modulator or coil.
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