Silverado :: 1996 - No Start After 3 Or 4 Block Drive And Shut Truck Off For 1/2 Hour Or So
Jan 30, 2013
1996 1500 4.3 19k - After a 3 or 4 block drive I shut truck off for 1/2 hour or so. Went to start and got this no start situation acting like it was either flooded or vapor lock. New battery, new alternator...did act like a flat spot in starter a couple of tries but otherwise normal starter action.
I let it sit for about another fifteen minutes...tried and it started right up? I have been told this is a problem with the distributor cap & rotor going bad and is a common problem. Is this correct? If so, how is this corrected. Does the whole distributor have to be replaced? Rebuilt? Does just the distributor cap and rotor need replaced?
Batt and Alt less than three months old.
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I have a ford ranger 1996 4 cylinder. The truck was driving fine then all of the sudden it shut off and wouldn't start... I checked spark and that is fine also changed fuel pump and made no difference. We also sprayed lighter fluid and that did nothing. It sounds like it wants to start but wont.
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So I drove home for about 5 hours. It sat in my driveway for about 2 days, so when I tried to start it today (yesterday), it decided to stop working?? Thinking a bad battery from the factory...but hoping it's not the altenator, or something more?
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so my 96 dodge dakota has been acting up a lot lately. I can barely drive in town let alone on the highway. when I drive, keep in mind its random most of the time, my truck will start jumping and then lose power. when I try to power thru it my truck will backfire and then shut off. once I try to start again it floods the engine. most of the time it will do this going up a hill or when it has to get above 3000 rpm. I don't know what's causing it. I replaced the throttle body fuel injection sensor and tranny filter but I figure its a fuel problem.
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2000 2WD 4.6L ... I was trouble shooting why the truck will not start after it has run for awhile then sits for about an hour. I was checking the connections on the solenoid switch on the fire wall when my wrench slipped and touched both terminals on the solenoid and the engine starter kicked in. I tightened the connection then tried to start the truck with no luck. so I tried leaving the key in the "ON" position and jumped the two terminals and the truck started. Does this tell me I have a bad solenoid switch?
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When the block is cold my truck will not start. If i keep the block heater plugged in it will crank but is still a long start. I have tried just about everything i can think of and it is way too much to list so i will give as much info as i can.
New- gpr, glow plugs, HPOP, batteries, starter, fuses, valve cover harness/ injector and glow plug wiring, vacuum lines. I have checked out just about everything remotely possible.
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My silverado no longer starts and the fuel gauge no longer reads. so far figured out that there is no power to the fuel pump and sending unit. Looking for an engine wiring diagram for this truck with the 6.0 engine?
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I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
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I have a 1999 Gmc Truck 1500 5.0 v8. Notice my truck starting heavy..like a low battery or something. This started getting worse over the week till the point where it cranks real slow. So i bought a new battery. Installed battery and still the same issue...slow crank like it wants to lock up. So i removed starter and notice some wear on the fly wheel so i replaced flywheel. Still the same thing! So this week i bought a new starter and guess what same issue. What is cause for a slow crank.
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I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
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The problem I'm having is it starts fine in the morning but when I shut it off it it takes about an hour to start back up ..
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Two wheel drive, small engine with two spark plugs per cylinder...clutch with five speed transmission. Over two hundred thousand miles on it. Drove it thirty miles on a rainy evening. Shut it off for about one hour and when I tried to restart, it just went click. Got towed thirty miles home. Replaced starter with brand new one and also new battery. Still nothing but click-click. Does start from clutch engagement when rolling. The trouble seems to be somewhere between the starter and the battery. What to do?
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Yesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
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My car started overheating and when I got under the hood I noticed that one of the belts was torn up pretty good. I'm guessing that this belt runs the fans or something. I am wondering what the name of this belt is and how hard it would be to replace?
The picture looks too small to be able to see it, but it's the belt on the right side of the engine block, next to the oil dipstick. The second picture loaded upside down.
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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2002 Ford F350 7.3...
After replacing the Glow Plug Module and the cam sensor. I have no codes on the scanner. However, after driving the truck for one hour or two it stalled and after cool down about a while t started and stalled after hot. Now I been reading lots of info and this is what I got so far.
Flow Sensor
Fuel injector control
Fuel pump
And one person said that he change the wire harnesses for glow plug on top of the head covers?
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The 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
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So my civic has 167,000 miles on it. I have replaced the thermostat and radiator but the mechanics are stumped. The problem is when I am driving on the highway for about an hour or longer (I live in the mountains, so this is not easy driving) and when I come back into town and get stuck at a red light, the temperature in the car starts to slowly rise. I have never let it fully overheat.
When the temperature is high, I have turned on the heat and it has come out cold. I have opened the hood as the temp is high and there is nothing leaking that I can tell. It feels hot/smells hot but I can't figure it out. The reserve tank has fluid in it, but I cannot see inside the radiator to see if there is fluid in it. This problem has been happening for about 6-7 months, so I just try not to drive it outside of town anymore. When I am driving around town, it does not seem to have an issue.
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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I have an '02 Escape, XLT V6 with 4WD. Recently (within the last month) we had to have the engine replaced. They found that three of the coil packs were cracked on the old engine. They put the new engine in, hooked it all up, and it ran like a dream. The new engine came off another Escape and has about 122K miles (the old one had 175K). Today, I got gas and hit the highway to visit family Up North for the holiday weekend. I noticed about an hour into my drive that the car had a slight chugging feel, nothing extreme but it felt like small catch. I got to my mom's house, and then drove with my sister to the gas station and she noticed it too, it seems to have gotten more pronounced. I noticed again really bad on the way back from a friend's tonight. It seems to 'chug' when pushing on the gas or in Cruise, but not when its just coasting. What could it be?
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Near the end of a 5 hour drive on Christmas day my check engine light came on. I read the code: P0401. I got it into the dealer this week and was told it was a blocked EGR cooler. The truck has 66k miles. Lucky for me, I have the extended warranty! They replaced a "tube assembly". I sure hope this is not something that is going to repeat. I would hate to pay for this repair in the future. They had the truck 2 days. Is this a common problem or am I just "lucky"?
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