I have a 1995, 1500, 350eng, PU. there seems to be an electrical problem in the ignition system. when the key is turned on the check engine and other lights do not come on and there is no power to the coil/ignition. When the lights do come on the truck starts. I have replaced module, dist,pickup coil, coil, cap and rotor. Could the problem be in the computer?
View 1 RepliesSo I went to a local VW in Milwaukee in March and they saw I was eligible for the Ignition Coil Recall. So they replaced that and the first time I started the car after they did that my car wouldn't start. This was the first time I experienced the problem. I told them and they tried and it started right away. However, for the past four months I've experienced this problem where when I try to start the car it takes awhile to get it started. It doesn't click it just keeps making that loud noise of trying to turn over. I went back to the VW twice and they said the ignition coil is not related to this and they wont do anything for me. My check engine lights been on all along too and they say I need a temperature sensor replaced. They don't even know if this will fix my not starting problem. After spending a little time trying to start my car it eventually starts every time. Checked battery- its fine. Not sure what to do here.
View 2 RepliesDrove 97 LHS home from work back at the end of June on a 100 plus day, it seemed fine, no indication of any problem. Got in it the next morning to go to work and it would not start. Cranks fine, hear fuel pump. So a few days pass before my husband can look at it. He did get codes. He replaced the ignition coil, put on a new fuel filter, and replaced a couple of modules. It would still not start. We towed it to a service station that we have used for years.
They replaced the camshaft sensor (and fixed the AC). I drove it for 8 days, no problems. Then on the morning of the 9th day, it would not start!! Exact same symptoms. So towed it again back to the service station. Then they said it was the PCM (control module). Husband went to junk yard to get one (much cheaper). Service shop put it in and then said that was not the problem and replaced the crankshaft sensor instead. Say it was ready to pick up. I went and paid again! Got key and came back later with husband to pick it up. IT would not start!!!
2013 4x4, looking for a good place to get 12v off the ignition to power a dash cam.
View 10 RepliesI have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
My 1995 Toyota Tacoma won't start every time I turn the key. Sometimes it starts right up, but recently, more often than not it just gives a single click when the clutch pedal is pressed in just about all the way.
I replaced the neutral safety clutch switch and it started every time for about a week, then it went back to not starting reliably.
I'm growing tired of making sure I park on a hill each time I park.
I have a 2002 Camry 2.4L, ECM 89666-06220, ignition coil 90919-02243. One of the coils has gone out. I got a misfire code on P303. I then moved the cylinder 3 coil to cylinder 4, cleared the code and restarted the car. The new code was P304, bad coil. I found a set of low mileage used coils, 90080-19023. The dealer says this number was one of the three options for 2002. But the pin-to-pin ohm values don't match.
The 90080-19023 pin ohms, 1-2= 348, 1-3=667, 1-4= 490, 2-3= 1100, 2-4= 912, 3-4= open. The 90919-02243 pin ohms, 1-2= 390, 1-3= 673, 1-4=940, 2-3= 1154, 2-4=1403, 3-4= open. How to successfully do this substitution and not burned up ECM ?
I have a 1991 Volvo 940 SE with turbo and 162,000 miles
The problem is there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. There is power going to the ignition coil but no spark. The car turns over but doesn't start.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil .
Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.
Understanding all the needed parts when replacing ignition coils on a honda fit 2007. My understanding is it is best to replace all 4 (are there 4 total?) as well as the spark plugs - also 4?What other parts are needed, does this car require spark plug wires?
Basically, Would this be a good time to replace air filters as well? Car has 116K miles.
Found out today that my third ignition coil is bad, it's a Honda civic 03' my question is, do I have to buy a new ignition coil. I had a clerk tell me I could switch the coils and it would run fine? Is this right? could I just switch the ignition coil with another ignition coil? This doesn't sound right. Well If I do buy new one which would be the third ignition coil? is it counted from left to right or right to left? Are there any telltale signs of a bad ignition coil on sight?
View 16 RepliesIgnition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
2000 Honda Accord. I've been told I have a bad ignition coil. Do I need to replace all six or can I just replace the one?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 RX 350 2WD. Recently, the check engine light is on, as well we two other lights are on as well: VSC, TRAC OFF.
I went to Lexus and was told that the error code is P0356. I was told that the ignition coil F is problematic and need replaced. I was quoted 1 and 1/2 hours two 2 hours work and need $412 for the repair. Well, I went to auto zone and was told that No 2, 4, 6 ignition coils were on outside so that it would only take about 5 minutes to replace the problematic one with a new one.
I did the replacement indeed by myself after buying a new ignition coil. Initially it was fine and the light went off after a little while. However, after about 10 days, those three lights went back again. I check the ignition coil, it seems fine and I was told that it is very unlikely for a new ignition coil to go bad this quickly.
I was told that I may need to check my spark plug as well. BTW, when I start the car, the car is a little bit shaky.
We bought it in 2010, since then we have replaced 5 ignition coils and 2-3 batteries. Everytime the car acts up, the VSC and traction lights come on and the car starts stumbling and hesitating. The car eventually dies within a few minutes. Pull up codes and its always been an ignition coil.
Well we had all of these covered under warranty until the warranty expired in Aug. A month ago this happened again, and thought the battery was dead. It ended up being #4 coil, so I replaced.
My wife drove last week and lights came on and lights started going on/off and dinging at her and the car died. I jumped it to get it home, turned off the car and was dead. Voltage at battery was 9 volts.
I charged overnight and started the next day. I pulled negative battery cable w car running to check alternator and it stayed running, so that's good. The car is now starting just fine again.....until this happens again.....which it will.
My question is what in the heck can be making all of the coils go bad and why is the car intermittently throwing warning lights and just dying? This last time the codes pulled we P0345, PO365, PO390. All of which I don't see an explanation for.
I have a 2003 passat 1.8 and I just started having a misfiring problem. I googled it and ran across a 2003 press release that VW had recalled them. I am going to call tomorrow, but I did a little testing myself. Probably not the best thing to do, but this is what I did. I had my wife start the car and I pulled off the coils until I hit the one that didn't make the car shake any more than it already was. It is the second one from the front. I pulled the spark plug out. It is the original, but didn't look too bad.
My question is: How do you test the ignition coil to see if it is faulty or if it could be the distributor? The coil that attaches to the plug looks a little burnt around the rim where it connects to the plug. Its not an expensive part, but I don't want to go buying another one just to find out it is the main distributor or something else...
How to remove the clip on ignition coil connector wires that attach to all 4 of the coils.
I see that it has a black tab that you pull to the up or out position. From there I'm at a loss what to do. I managed to prode and poke and got one off, but I nearly pulled the connector off the wire and I know I didn't do it right.
Is there a simple way to release these mothers that I'm just not getting? If so, looking for explicit instructions in minute detail..
My husband's 2001 Buick LeSabre had an ignition module and one ignition coil replaced in March. Yesterday, the car broke down, and the mechanic told us that the new ignition coil shorted out the other two coils. Is this believable? We've been using the same mechanic for several years because we trusted him and have heard a lot of good things about him, but this seems kinda fishy. This car is not one of the GM cars that was recalled.
View 10 RepliesCan a problem elsewhere in the system cause ignition coils to go bad? I have an '03 Mazda 6s, 147k miles, owned it since new (Dec '02). 3 1/2 ~ 4 years ago, over a period of 6 months I had to replace 4 of the 6 coils. A month ago, one of the replaced coils went bad so I had all three rear bank coils replaced (cheaper to do all three at once rather than one at at a time since half the engine needs to be disassembled to get at them). This week, I started to get the initial symptom of a coil going bad on me: Occasional stuttering in the engine.
This issue always starts when it's wet outside. The first few times it started when going through a car wash, this last time was right after Super Storm Sandy dumped a lot of rain (I am not in one of the flooded areas, NH just got a lot of rain).
My engine has 2 ignition coils, and b went bad, but which one is b. ?
View 9 RepliesJust a few weeks ago I replaced a bad ignition coil because I got the engine code P0302. I replaced the spark plugs with NGK Laser Iridium and the second Ignition coil. Now a few weeks later the Ignition coil 1 has died on me.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2011 Volkswagen Jetta (2.0 I believe) is misfiring again. We took it to the dealership about 6 months ago and they said that the ignition coil had gone bad. They replace the ignition coil and said that the plugs needed changing as well. I went to Auto Zone and got some decent plugs and changed them myself at home without much problem. It seemed to work with the problem (although it didn't seem to completely fix it) for a while, but it just recently went back to misfiring. The current symptom is that it seems to misfire when the car is warming up, but misfires less when the car is warm.
The dealership says that the plugs that we got were not recommended by the dealer (they recommended Bosch) and that they need to be replaced. I think this is BS and it is not going to fix the problem.