Silverado :: 1992 Chevy 1500 Runs And Starts Great But Won't Do High RPMs
Dec 8, 2013
I have a 92 chevy pick up 5.7 with 159,000 miles. The truck runs and starts great but shortly after I bought it 3 years ago it developed a sort of misfire at higher rpm's, it's fine if I drive it normally but if I try to pass someone it will downshift then fall on it's face, (spit,sputter and slow down). some times I can feather the accelerator and it will come back again. I normally don't drive the truck in the winter but this week I was forced to use it and the cold weather is seriously affecting it, it took forever to get it up to 70 mph after getting on the highway. once up to speed it will do 75 all day without an issue.
I've replaced the plugs, wires, pulled the throttle body and cleaned it as the port for the pcv valve was plugged solid with carbon. I have not replaced the cap and rotor as they seemed to look fine. I have not checked the fuel pressure because it will break the tires loose upon take off and I don't think that would be possible if the pressure was low, would it?
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I have a 96 chevy Silverado 4x4 5.7 motor and it does the same thing but it doesn't leave in first gear, it misfires and high rpms and doesn't go in overdrive. but if I drive a little while and turn it off, it's fine it acts like a normal truck would. then if my truck is off for more that a couple of hours it goes back to it acting up.
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My 03 F250 6.0L Starts and Runs fine but will never illuminate the glow plug/ wait to start light? Scan tool test on GPRM and tells me everthing is OK. Cleared all codes, turn on key, no WTS light and throws P0381 DTC every time. What my problem is?
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I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
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I am trying to get some advice on a diagnosis for a transmission problem i'm experiencing with my vehicle? It's a manual transmission and the sound i am hearing is when i shift gears is a loud whirling grinding sound. It's really loud in 2nd 3rd and 5th and doesn't stop.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado, 350, 2WD. It has a 4L60E transmission. I just started having a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd. When accelerating the RPM's go way up and won't shift until I let off the throttle. Then it shifts into all other gears normally.
If I accelerate slowly. it will shift into 2nd at about 16 MPH. It will then shift into all other gears normally. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, flushed the transmission and replaced the filter and fluid. This made know change in performance.
I am now suspecting that it might be the 1-2 shift solenoid. The check engine light is not on and everything else works fine.
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I have a '77 F250 with a 460. (Under edit) It has a holley 750 carb. (under 2 years old). It ran fine for about 2 years and now all the sudden it seems to not get enough fuel. I have a clear fuel filter on it and you can see that it is full of fuel when I first start it up. Just letting it sit there and idle after about 5 minutes it starts to show air coming through the lines and it gets worst the longer it runs.
If I take it out on the road and drive 55 it will be about 1 or 2 miles and it acts like it's not getting fuel. I stop and open the hood and check the filter and it is empty. What could cause this? I took it to an old Ford machanic and he has checked the fuel pump, fuel lines, sending unit, and gas tank. He is at a loss. I am no mechanic, but I am mechanicly inclined. I can't see it would be that hard to figure out. What do I do?
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My truck was intermittently shifting really hard in first and second . I drained the tranny fluid and installed a new filter and replaced the fluid, I also changed plugs and wires. Tranny fluid is at the top of the hash marks on dipstick when hot and in park. When I come to a complete stop my engine 5.3 litre v8 revs up to about 2000 rpms but the truck takes off slowly like the tranny is slipping it is worse on an incline. If I dont come to a complete stop it shifts fine and takes off with good power. After it shifts to second it shifts normally and drives fine. tranny fluid looks clean and does not smell burnt. Also when driving on the highway if I am going 45 mph and punch the gas it wont rev past 2200 rpms like it is lugging down. when i shift thru gears manually there is no slippage what so ever and when in park engine revs to 6000 rpms no problem. Also tranny is a 4l60e
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My dad's 1996 Chevy Silverado will not shift into hi gear. The truck starts up fine and he can drive it but for some reason it won't shift into hi gear. Him and I are clueless as to why it won't. He has a 1996 Chevy Silverado, 6.5 liter V-8 automatic transmission, and its a diesel. We really want to fix the truck ourselves so we are trying to avoid taking it to a shop.
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01 2500hd, 8.1L allison auto, push button 4x4. wont lock in until its about 2000 rpm then will release just fine. Just not sure of where to start looking for the problem. Actuator on the axle or in the transfer case or something else?
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Do I have to pull out the complete switch assembly, or could it be some thing else?
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I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
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My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
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I'm having a problem with my 2012 Mazda3 (automatic, non-skyactive model) that others seem to be complaining about on the online forums, but there seems to be no consensus.
About 10,000 miles into owning the car, it started making a sort of high-pitched gargling sound when I accelerate and the tachometer reads 1500-1900 RPMs. At first, the sound occurred sporadically when I was accelerating under these conditions, but now, at 28,000 miles, it's happening almost every time I accelerate between 1500-1900 RPMs. Here are a few more facts:
The engine must be warm. The car must be in drive (I cannot replicate it in neutral or park)The sound occurs regardless of whether the AC is on
I took it to the dealer 3 times. The first time, they changed the belt, and that worked for about 1000 miles. The second time, they told me that the noise is normal, and I should not worry. The third time, I took it to a different dealer, and they put a "dressing" on the belt. That worked for about 600 miles. Now the sound is back again, and it's driving me nuts. It definitely doesn't sound normal. If I test drove a car at 28,000 that made this sound, I definitely wouldn't buy it.
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My Aerostar is a 93 extended EB with 4.0, AT, 212k mostly reliable miles, and blue and gold paint that has held up remarkably well. When started it runs great; smooth idle, easy revs, normal as can be. But when that third pip on the digital temp gauge hits Normal the van becomes possessed. The idle will randomly drop or surge or return to normal, the check engine light will come on for a few seconds then go off, all without pattern, just kinda crazy. Today I held it at 2k rpm, then it bogged down to like 800 rpm and lit the CEL, then it returned to 2k rpm and the light cleared, swung up to 2.5k, all while I hold the throttle steady. The light does not always come on when it bogs. I see no black smoke from the exhaust and it smells normal, but it was kinda windy today.
The check engine light is not lit otherwise so I assume no hard codes are stored. I think I found the code retrieval process for the OBDI but I have not done that yet. After reading a bit in this forum I thought to clean the MAP sensor, but I do not have security torx bits to remove it yet. As background a few years ago it had an oil leak from the top rear which I ignored, and it slowly rotted a harness back there till one day the harness died leaving me running on 3 cylinders. My local Speedy Lube guy was ex Ford dealership and knew Aerostars, he did the diagnosis and repair and said it was a common problem. But he has moved on. I was also told I have a torn boot on a plug wire, but there's no way to get my ham-like paws back in there, from front or back, to verify or replace. I mention all this as background, I doubt a bad plug wire is the issue here.
It seems like an odd problem to me because the only pattern is related to operating temp. It is not a constant problem, not an intermittent glitch, but it very definitely goes nuts right when it achieves normal temp. Aside from pulling the codes, which I will figure out tomorrow, any other tests I can run to diagnosis? Any way I can trick this thing into thinking it is cold all the time?
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I bought my gti about a month ago and every time I warm it up in the morning or any time it has been sitting over a long period of time the rpms sit at about 1300 until about a minute and it goes under 1k ... I am not to familiar with this issue.
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I just purchased a 1989 F250 with a 5.8 motor. Great truck for its age. Ive owned other Ford trucks in the past and my Dad had them as a kid. Love them.
When I bought the truck from the 2nd owner it had a problem so I bought this truck with the problem figuring with my past knowledge I could fix it. Not the case. When I got the truck it would start fine and run really great but when it got warm it seems it would die and I would have to wait till it was cooled down to start back up and again it would run fine. Well the problem got worse and worse and now it wont run at all.
It will run on starter fluid so that leads me immediately to the fuel pumps. I say that plural because none of them will run it seems. I did a fuel pressure test at the shrader valve at the top of the motor on the fuel rail and I get no pressure at all when I turn the key. The relay in the engine compartment seems to be working to as I can hear it. I put a new on of those on to to be sure. Leads me back to the pumps again. I replaced the external pump on the fuel rail and I know thats working. I replaced the fuel filter to while I was there.
Is it possible to have BOTH fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks go at once? Seems unusual. My other F150 with dual tanks worked great and when the back tank pump went I could just switch it over to the front tank.
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I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
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I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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I have a 1995 k1500 when I turn the key on no lights on the dash if I wait 5-10 second you hear a click sound in steering column and the dash lights come on and starts fine. ???
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I am doing a side job and this thing has a rough idle. I put the scanner on it and pulled code 43 ESC and a ritch and lean code from the O2 sensors. I know the O2 codes are probably from running rough. It has been a while but could the knock sen be the problem or the ESC itself? I looked for the ESC by the throttle body but didn't see it. I remember what they look like but this is a late model 94 are they some where else?
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