Silverado :: 1991 C1500 Heater Air Does Not Get Hot And Temp Indicator On Dash Will Not Move Off Of Cold
Jan 22, 2013
I have a 1991 Silverado C1500 and when I push the heater button to on, the thing just goes absolutely crazy. Instead of one little indicator light, that is suppose to show hot, it lights up all the way across, like a pinball machine that has tilted. The heater air does not get hot and the temp indicator on the dash (separate guage) will not move off of cold. I am going to replace the thermostat, but what is going on with the darn temp gauge?
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02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
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i have a 1991 silverado k2500 with the 454 big-block in it as i was driving home yesterday getting on the high way the truck just died completely without warning i looked down because i smelled something like burning wires and there was allot of smoke coming from under the dash where the steering column is when i go to start it all it dose is crank and crank never fires up it has no spark at all ?
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It is a 1991 C1500 2wd, ext cab, short bed 5.7L engine with about 300k miles on it that I have had for a year. Supposedly a different 350 engine and transmission was put in a couple years ago.
This problem has been going on for 2 weeks. I'll start the car up and it runs just fine, no problems. After driving for about 20 minutes, the engine will die while driving, and will not start back up until the next day. I have sat in the car for literally 4 hours patiently waiting for it to start. I'll turn the key and the engine will rotate, but will not start. When someone shows up to give me a jump after the battery gets low, it will not start. I'll go home and go to sleep, and sometime the next day I'll go to my truck, and it will start back up, and I'll drive back home, and I'll make it as long as it takes less than 20 minutes.
It is not just a "morning problem", but a "first time I have started the truck that day" kind of problem. Last week, it happened to me in the mornings. On Saturday, I didn't leave my house until 2pm and the problem happened. Today, I first drove it at 8pm, and the problem happened.
Things I have changed so far (mostly from Autozone):
Starter - burnt it out when it first died 2 weeks ago, now I know not to crank when below 9 volts - lifetime warranty
Spark plugs - no more engine popping or driving with 2 feet - changed last week on Tuesday - AC Delco CR43TS gapped at .035
plug wires - changed all in November, since I noticed one of the old ones was tore - lifetime warranty
Distributor cap and rotor - changed last month when the engine started popping - autozone
Ignition control module- I changed today, I really thought that would fix the problem after speaking with the Autozone guy - lifetime warranty
Ignition Coil - changed last month because of popping
Fuel Filter - changed last Thursday, thinking it was a fuel problem
Here are some of the other symptoms I have been noticing over the last couple months:
Pretty bad gas mileage, I know it is a V8, but it is just as thirsty when I am not carrying anything as when I am pulling a car. A couple months ago, after driving for about 30 minutes or so, the engine would make a "Pfft" noise and would start popping and I would have to drive with 2 feet to keep the engine running.
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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I have a 2004 3.0 V6. The dash temperature gauge doesn't move just sits at the bottom 50C. (Canadian metric)...
I would like to locate the sender for the gauge to do a little testing. I removed a whack of plastic but nothing was obvious.
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Today my driver side seat belt got locked in the retracted position for no reason. I drove the truck to work, no issues with the seat belt, but when I got in to go get some lunch, I went to put the belt on and it moves about 2-3 inches out of the retractor and locks.
The other issue I'm having, is that I can't get the retractor cover off to see if theres something inside locking the belt or if it is going to need to be replaced.
How to get the cover off and if possible, fix the belt without replacing it.
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I have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
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the car 07 passat wagon fsi auto value edition.. This is my first winter in Maine and I've noticed by 35 degrees F and colder when vehicle is at operating temp and then I use the cabin blower say 72 degrees or hotter on fan speed 2; causes engine temp to drop maybe 10-15 degrees. Car reaches operating temp quickly! And coolant concentration seems right!
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My Jetta runs great in the summer and all seasons around town... the temp stays around 195 or so, the heater works ok, etc. When I get on the interstate however (now that the temp has dropped) , the story changes. The temp gauge falls below 150 and the heater gets cold. I assumed the thermostat was stuck open, so I replaced it but it didn't solve the problem. I called a local dealer and on his recommendation, I replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor. That also didn't solve the problem. I have had cars overheat in the past, but never one that overcooled! Wy my car cools too well at highway spheeds? It affects my gas mileage and makes for an uncomfortable ride on cold days!
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On my way home from work I noticed that my heater was blowing cold air. then I checked my gauges and noticed that the temp gauge was moving toward hot. pulled over on side of road car died on me. Husband pulled car home replaced top water hose. Now my car will not start.
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Does the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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The truck sat since 2002 or so. Hasn't ran since, So my brother and me towed it home and I started working on it. I replace the tailgate, Replaced the lights, Did a oil change, Dropped the gas tank out and ran a gallon of gas and seafoam through it. Then I was driving it the other day and I decided to play the radio so I pressed the power button and I heard a pop noise. Like not a fuse pop noise. This happens every time you turn it on/change the volume. Its coming from the speakers and the louder the volume the louder the popping is. Is the radio just bad? Its a funny square shape and I haven't ever seen a radio that would fit this. I checked all the fuses and I found nothing.
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I drive a 91 Silverado, v6, standard transmission.
While I was driving my truck seemed to slip out of gear and wouldn't go back in. About 10 seconds later it shut off. I was able to ride the momentum and pull over. It tries to start when I'm turning the key, but nothing. I've ruled out the distributor and the battery. All I can think now is: transmission ....
I've had problems with my distributor rotor from time to time, but no real indication that my transmission was having troubles.
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Details about my car: '91 Nissan Maxima. His name is Max. 183,265ish miles on it. Transmission was replaced maybe 8 years ago(?) My dad said the oil was changed at the 500 mark. Filled the tank up at Citgo with regular gas on Friday and only drove about 50 miles (I fill up every 200 miles or less). Max turns on but you have to floor it just to move an inch and it smells like gas.
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I have a 1995 Silverado Diesel 4X4 with 145K miles. I only drive about once a week to take trash to the dump. It's been running great until yesterday. I put in drive and went to pull out of my drive way and truck won't move. It makes a terrible sound in the rear of the truck but won't budge. I have checked transmission fluid level and appears to be good. I say appears because my drive way is on a steep incline and it's backed in, bed on the down side of hill.
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My heater will blow hot when the fan speed is set to the lower two speeds but when I put the fan on the higher speeds the heat starts to turn cold almost right away, but when I put it back to low it gets hot again. It doesn't matter whether the button for the recirculate mode is on or off, defrost or whatever. WWhat is the cause of this?This is on a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD truck.
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1991 F250 Diesel. I'm on my 5th heater core in the past 18 months. This last one lasted less than 500 miles. I'm using the Spectre brand from Autozone. I find it hard to believe i could have gotten 5 bad ones in a row. I have pressure checked the system and it's normal. There is no fluctuations in the readings, so I doubt there is a head gasket issue.
I checked for stray voltage in the coolant and the results never got above .17 volts, but it was usually lower than that. I thought I had an electrolysis issue when I noticed the heater core tubes touching the firewall, so for this last core, I insulated the tubes, but that didn't work. I've checked everything I can think of. The truck has 117K miles on it. I don't drive it much, less than a few thousand miles a year.
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I have less than 7k miles on my new Silverado W/T. I haven't hauled anything heavy in it since I bought it, and have been using it just back and forth to work. Pretty light duty. I was parked the other night in a parking lot idling and listening to the radio when I noticed the transmission temp jumped up to 189 degrees! I also noticed the water gauge was a bit past it's mid-range temp. I immediately cranked up the heater core to try to cool things down and it worked for the main radiator water temp..but the tranny sender quickly went to 200 degrees so I shut the whole mess down.
Just before I did that, the transmission idiot light popped on. I left it there for several hours in 20 degree weather and came back to start the truck and head home..the tranny on start-up was still @ 70 degrees. I got up on the hiway and things came down to about 100 degrees at a legal speed on the hiway. Engine water temp was normal too. Drove for about 45 minutes that way. I tried sitting in my driveway a day or so later in park, and the tranny temp went from 120 degrees to 145 degrees in 35 degree weather fairly quickly.
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1996 SILVERADO TRUCK. Starter solenoid doesn't engage when temperature is below freezing....
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